Gary Hanauer

Boogie Bar

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Rating: C

Boogie Bar, on the Trinity River just west of the town of Willow Creek, has been used by college students and other skinny-dippers for decades.  “The river is usually up to 25 feet wide,” says visitor Alex Towery.  The popular beach of sand mixed with rocks is also called the Bend and Sandy Bar.  It’s located between Arcata and Weaverville, just off Highway 299.  On weekends, you’ll usually encounter dozens of naked and suited sunbathers and swimmers.  Other activities include reading and people-watching.

Legal status:

Unknown

How to find it:

Take Highway 101 north to Eureka and Arcata. Pick up Highway 299 two miles north of Arcata and go east for about 25 minutes. Three miles west of Willow Creek, cross the Trinity River Bridge and take an immediate right onto South Fork Road. About three miles down the road, you’ll see a big meadow and a junkyard, the last two landmarks before the beach path. The best landmark to find the trailhead, says Towery, is to look for cars pulled over several miles beyond the junkyard. To avoid poison oak that sometimes overhangs it, don’t park too close to the edge of the vehicle area.

The beach:

A cove on the south fork of the Trinity River.

The crowd:

On the warmest days, perhaps 20-25 visitors.

Problems:

Rocky river bottom; unknown legal status; poison oak near parking area; directions could be improved.

Salyer Hole

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Rating: C

If you’re heading east from the coast, after the town of Blue Lake look for the Salyer Roadside Rest Area, east of Maple Creek beach.  Not many outsiders know about it, but a clothing-optional swimming hole used by locals and visitors is across the street from the rest stop.

Legal status:

Unknown

How to find it:

Follow the directions to Maple Creek (above). The “nude beach is just east of the entrance to the Salyer Roadside Rest Area,” says reader Donald. It’s located about 100 yards east of the rest spot on the opposite side of the road. “At that point,” suggests Donald, “you should turn down the gravel road to the parking area. A rocky, somewhat steep, but good trail will bring you down to the river.”

The beach:

A riverbank beach of sand mixed with rocks.

The crowd:

You may see a few visitors. Or you may be the only person present.

Problems:

Gravel access road; rocky river bottom; unknown legal status; better directions needed.

Maple Creek

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Rating:  C

Imagine riding down a river in a tube and coming across dozens of naked people in the water or sprawled on the banks.  That’s the eye-popping event that happens nearly every day in the summer at two swimming holes near Maple Creek and the Salyer Roadside Rest Area, both off Highway 299.  The water can be icy, so there are usually far more nudies on the shore than not.  Tip: bring old shoes to protect your feet from river rocks, in case you decide to take a dip.

Legal status:

Unknown.

How to find it:

Follow Mad River directions to the town of Blue Lake (see above). Access to Maple Creek, which consists of a few buildings, is via a small road in town. “It’s a little ways inland from Blue Lake,” reader Douglas Beck says. The same drive can also be made from Kneeland, which can be reached from Arcata. From Highway 101, head up Fickle Hill Road to the Maple Creek exit. Take the exit to where you see cars pulled off, then park and walk upstream past a clothed beach to the nude swimming hole.

The beach:

Depending on the season, the beach of rocks and sand is next to a small river or stream.

The crowd:

You and a few others may be the only ones here.

Problems:

Unknown legal status; river rocks; better directions needed.

 

Mad River

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Rating: C

Don’t get mad, get naked — at this skinny dipping hole on the Mad River, one of a string of nude swim sites on Highway 299, east of Highway 101.  Look for this traditional plunge location off Fish Hatchery Road (please below), east of Blue Lake.  Tip: for the best weather, visit in midsummer through early fall.

Legal status:

Unknown.

How to find it:

Take Highway 101 north through Arcata. Two miles past Arcata go east on Highway 299 to the little town of Blue Lake. After crossing the Mad River, about seven miles from Arcata, take Fish Hatchery Road to the parking lot of the hatchery. Park and cross the rocks between the lot and the riverbank. The main nude area is just above the hatchery, but other naturists flock to points both upstream and downstream. For the best side, wade across the river east of the hatchery, then walk along the north bank. Look for other visitors spread out to the east. You can also get there via West End Road.

The beach:

“It’s really pretty,” says visitor Alex Towery. “If you like to fish, when the water’s high and steelhead are running, you can stand there fishing while the sun is beaming down on you.” Not only is there rarely any fog here, but the water’s also warmer than at Baker’s or College Cove, which rival Mad River in popularity.

The crowd:

Considered one of the county’s most popular inland swimming holes, Mad gets both suited and suitless users. One visitor counted around 25 nudists, while others have found none.

Problems:

Rocks; needs better directions; best weather starts in midsummer; percentage of nude use widely varies.

 

Van Duzen Beach

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Rating: C

Are you tired of coastal fog? Then you might consider taking a quick road trip inland to some 10 clothing-optional swimming holes near the towns of Blue Lake and Willow Creek, where temperatures are often quite toasty. At least 10 clothing-optional swimming holes are located a few miles inland.  Suggestion:  bring drinking water and suntan lotion.  Coming from the coast, the first place to enjoy nude swimming and sunbathing is this beach overlooking the Van Duzen River.  On a weekday, you may be the only person present.

Legal status:

Unknown.

How to find it:

Take Highway 101 north to Highway 36. From Bridgeville, drive downstream to Goat Rock, then look for the nude beach on a ribbon of sand along the river.

The beach:

Bring water shoes, old sneakers, or flip-flops to wear in the river so you won’t get “rock burn” from the pebbles in the water.

The crowd:

A huge gathering would be 15 people. Most likely, there will be only a few people present.

Problems:

Beware of rushing, sometimes hazardous water; rocks in the river; needs better directions.

 

Agate Beach

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Rating: C

There are nude rockers, but what about nude rock collectors?  At the south end of Agate Beach, at Patrick’s Point State Park, north of Trinidad, you can be both.  Small numbers of naked rock hunters, along with clad visitors, sometimes scour the shoreline for beach agates.  Due to intermittent summer fog, spring and fall are the best times to search for the colorful gems.  The hills behind the beach are usually covered in purple lupine flowers in the spring.  The area is also suitable for tanning tune-ups on summer afternoons when the sun is shining.  Other fun activities include tide pooling, camping (the beach’s campground has 124 sites, showers, and a picnic table, plus a cabin that sleeps four), and hiking.  Tip: take the Rim Trail to viewpoints of harbor seals, sea lions, and gray whales.

Legal status:

Part of Patrick’s Point State Park.

How to find it:

Take Highway 101 north for about 25 miles, north of Eureka and five miles north of the Trinidad exit to Patrick’s Point State Park, which is 56 miles south of Crescent City. From Agate Campground, look for the Agate Beach trailhead and take the short, steep path to the beach, passing spots that offer nice vistas of Agate Beach and Humboldt Lagoons State Park far below.

The beach:

What’s the main activity at this nine-mile long, clothing optional beach? Looking for agates, of course! Wave-polished black jade and beach agates can be found in the sand and tidal zone at the water’s edge. Winter storms also usually dump loads of driftwood on the shore.

The crowd:

On warm weekdays “you might find three or four people going nude here,” says Alex. Except for the south end of the beach, Agate mainly gets clothed use. On weekends, nudism usually disappears.

Problems:

Day use and overnight camping fees; wind and fog during the summer; nude use occurs only on weekdays; agates are easiest to find in winter; fierce riptides and cold, hazardous water limits swimming.

 

North College Cove

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Rating: B

You may find as many as several dozen nude or topless people at this beautiful cove.  But more likely, you’ll see far more suited sunbathers and swimmers than those who are naked.  The beach is a little larger and has a better trail than its neighbor, College Cove South.  Jogging, volleyball, and Frisbee are other common pursuits here.

Legal status:

State property.

How to find it:

See directions for South College Cove. Take the trail at the northern end of the parking area there and go down its steps to the sand.

The beach:

Bigger than South College Cove. At low tide, you can walk from there along the sand around the big rock between the two coves. At high tide, access is mostly cut off by a rocky promontory.

The crowd:

About 75 percent of the folks who show up on the sand wear swimsuits.

Problems:

Less nude use than at College Cove South; cold water; may be windy or foggy; raids by deputies in the past.

 

South College Cove

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Recommended!

Rating: A

For the most dependable warm weather, the best time to skinny-dip at the two adjoining beaches in Trinidad known as College Cove is mid-summer through fall.  Hopefully, you won’t be disappointed.  “It’s definitely a fun place,” says Jessica, a former student at nearby Humboldt State College.  “Agrees reader Jack:  “It has gorgeous clear water and great wind protection.”  Many clothed visitors also use the beach.

Legal status:

State property. Years ago, deputies raided the beach and handed out anti-nudity citations.

How to find it:

From Eureka, go north on Highway 101 and take the Trinidad turnoff. At the first intersection, instead of turning right onto Patrick’s Point Drive, keep going straight. Says reader “North Coast Mike”: “about two blocks past a grocery store, turn right at Stage Coach Road and follow it a quarter mile to a dirt parking lot on the left.  Look for the Trinidad State Beach sign.” Follow Stage Coach Road a quarter mile to a dirt parking lot on the left.  “If you end up at the lighthouse, you missed it, so turn around at the bottom of the hill,” adds Mike.  Follow the trail at the south end of the parking lot.

Here’s a map of College Cove

The beach:

A half-moon-shaped cove with around a quarter mile of sand.

The crowd:

Mainly young singles, most of them students. Expect around 50 visitors a day, with use equally divided between nudes and prudes.

Problems:

Icy water; eroding trail; gawkers; occasional fog; law enforcement raids in the past.

 

Hidden Beach

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Rating: C

Several adjoining coves in Trinidad have become hangouts for nudists on warm days. Known collectively as Hidden Beach, they’re located between Trinidad Head and Patrick’s Point and College Cove.  “The few people who show up go nude there,” says veteran user Alex, of San Rafael.  “I’ve gone there many times, sometimes with friends, and run into other people only once or twice.”  Tip: to find sand on the beach, visit in low tide.

Legal status:

Private property.

How to find it:

From Eureka, go north on Highway 101 and take the Trinidad turnoff. At the first intersection, instead of turning right onto Patrick’s Point Drive, keep going straight. Says Alex, with editing by reader “North Coast Mike”: “about a block after you pass a supermarket on your left, you will see some horse stables. Just past the horses, turn right on Stagecoach Road, which is the way to College Cove, and stay on the road for about 1.5 miles until it comes to a big, 90-degree bend and turn. Follow the bend and just after it look for a little turnout with a ‘No Parking’ sign on the right side of the road. It only holds one or two cars. Park there and walk to the left, where you will see a fence with a hole. Walk through it and follow the path about a half mile to three-quarters of a mile, through some redwoods, to the shore. You’ll get some beautiful views of the ocean along the way.”

The beach:

You get to pick from six or seven small but sandy beaches next to inlets. Each of the beaches is a few hundred yards long. The beach trail is usually free of poison oak.

The crowd:

Most likely, you’ll be the only person present.

Problems:

Beach washes away in high tide; private property; not much parking.

Baker’s Beach

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Recommended!

Rating: A

Baker’s features a quarter moon-shaped shoreline lined with tide pools and agates that make it one of the best beaches in Humboldt County.  Better still, the site is shrouded from sight by greenery.  “I go year round and can tell you that it’s one of the most beautiful beaches I’ve seen in the world,” says Mike, of Trinidad.  “It’s really quiet,” adds Vince, an Arcata resident.  “It’s never crowded.  And the trail is easy.”  For a relaxing afternoon of sunbathing, swimming, or exploring, look for this “must visit” cove some 12 miles north of Arcata, off Highway 101.

Legal status:

Apparently owned by the Baker family. Nude use is tolerated.

How to find it:

From Arcata, drive 12 miles north on Highway 101. Take the Westhaven exit to Scenic Drive, then follow Scenic north to a large, vine-covered residence sign and a rusted Private Property marker on the right (look for pulled-over cars). The quarter-mile-long beach path begins 20 yards beyond two mailboxes near the signs.

Sometimes Scenic Drive washes out, so here’s another route. Says Mike:  “Start north at Trinidad (HUM milepost 101). Scenic starts in Trinidad at the first intersection before the grocery store.  Head south on Scenic 1.4 miles to Baker Ranch Road.  Pass Baker Ranch but stop at the next driveway past Baker Ranch.  Look for a post marking the trailhead to the beach on the west (coast) side of the road and follow it to the beach.”

The beach:

Instead of sand, the beach is mostly composed of sesame seed-sized pebbles.

The crowd:

Crowds have dropped from a few years ago, when local resident Carl Gelden-Meyers counted up to 40 people present on the hottest days. “I’ve rarely seen more than a dozen persons,” reports Mike. “They are mostly mellow college students,” says Gelden-Meyers. Some families also visit the site, which gets both nude and suited use.

Problems:

Car burglaries and gawkers reported in the past.

 

Garberville Nude Beach

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Rating: C

Look for this quiet, riverbank site along the south branch of the Eel River, near the first highway exit into.  It isn’t visible from the highway, but there are houses nearby, so please use this area with caution.  Most local residents prefer visiting North Garberville Beach, which is our next listing.

Legal status:

Unknown, may be public property.

How to find it:

From Mendocino, go north on Highway 1 to Garberville, passing Rockport and Leggett (where 1 merges with Highway 101), or take 101 north all the way to Garberville. The road becomes a two-lane highway bordered by redwoods. Take the first Garberville exit. Turn left at the “To San Francisco” sign, the first major intersection in the city. Instead of following the highway onramp, go straight. After the street goes downhill, turn right onto the first paved road. Park near the big pile of gravel (you may see cars pulled over, which is usually a good sign). An easy trail, usually without poison oak, will take you to the south fork of the river.

The beach:

A skinny-dipping hole, protected from view from the road by a hill. Bring flip-flops or old sneakers to wear in the river.

The crowd:

Probably just you. Even on hot days, you may find only a few nude bathers.

Problems:

Unknown legal status; cold water; homes nearby; river rocks.

Stony Creek

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Rating: C

If you’re willing to drive two hours from Clearlake and hike along a shimmering forest stream, you’ll be rewarded with three skinny-dipping pools you can sample in a single afternoon. Two of these delightful swimming holes have their own waterfalls. If you look carefully, a third hole can be found below them, down a sunny trail.

 

Legal status:

Mendocino National Forest land within the Snowy Mountain Wilderness.

 

How to find it:

From Clearlake, take Highway 53 north 3.8 miles, then turn right onto Highway 20. Go 28 miles and make a left turn onto Leesville Road. Follow it for 13.6 miles. Next, turn right onto Leesville Lodoga Road. Stay on Leesville Lodoga for 9 miles, then turn left onto Lodoga Stonyford Road. Drive 7.7 miles to Stonyford. Pick up M-10 at the Stonyford Work Center, at 5171 Stonyford-Elk Creek Road in Stonyford and follow it 10 miles to North Fork Campground. You’ve almost arrived! Park at the campground and take the trail up Stony Creek until you reach another creek that comes in from the west. After another 10 minutes of walking, check for an overhang that juts over the creek. That’s where you’ll find the lower of the three pools. Walk 10 minutes farther upstream and you will see the pools with the waterfalls.

 

The beach:

A trio of secluded pools with some rocks that can be used for sunbathing and at least two waterfalls.

 

The crowd:

Most likely just you.


Problems:

The tanning rocks are sometimes slippery; lack of many landmarks on the trail; high heat on the trail during the summer because it is exposed to the sun (be sure to wear a cap).

Rattlesnake Creek

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Rating: C

East of Covelo, a spectacular setting of waterfalls, tanning rocks, and great water await you at one of California’s least known but most impressive swimming holes.  You’ll need to walk for an hour to reach what Pancho Doll calls Rattlesnake Creek’s “tiny precious gorge” in his “Day Trips With A Splash: The Swimming Holes Of California.”  Those who make the trek often go nude when they arrive.  Pack water, wear hiking boots, and get ready for fun at this 20-foot tall, clothing-optional waterfall in the Yolla Bolly-Middle Eel Wilderness.  Just be careful: rattlers live in the rocky canyon through which you’ll be walking.

 

Legal status:

Unknown.


How to find it:

From Covelo, take Highway 338 east as it parallels the middle fork of the Eel River. At the Eel River Work Station in Mendocino National Forest, take M-1 north toward the Yolla Bolly-Middle Eel Wilderness. Keep your eyes open for a bridge that crosses Rattlesnake Creek. Park near the bridge. On the south side of the road, near the back end of an undeveloped camping area, look for an unmarked path. Budget 30-to-60 minutes for the hike to the falls, which will take you past trees and down a gully. Follow the gully left to the water. At the creek, walk upstream until you come to the skinny-dipping hole and falls. Boots are recommended.


The beach:

Instead of a beach, expect rocks and rocky ledges. But you’ll have your own clothing-optional swimming hole and a beautiful waterfall.


The crowd:

Probably just you. Some visitors apparently stay overnight at the unsanctioned camping spot near the bridge.


Problems:

Rocks and rocky ledges; trail unmarked; unknown legal status; and did we mention the snakes?

Spy Rock

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Rating: C

You may have canoodled, but have you ever canuded? It’s the art of paddling a canoe — nude or not — to a nude swimming hole. And it’s also a preferred way to reach this Eel River site, along with others that are nearby. Other options include rowing or hiking. This beach, north of Willits is a sandy bank along the Eel River where you can pull your watercraft up on the bank, take off your clothes, and plunge into the invigorating water. 

Read a good spy novel lately?  If not, then you might want to bring one with you to savor at the perfect place: Spy Rock Beach, on the Eel River, east of Leggett, where you can write your own chapter in the book of life by swimming and sunning clothing-free.

 

Legal status:

Part of Round Valley Reservation.

 

How to find it:

The beach is just south of Blue Rock Creek and Bell Springs Station. If you can find Leggett, you’re on the right track because the swimming hole is just east of the town. Follow the directions to Dos Rios. This hole is virtually opposite scenic Spy Rock. Access is by canoe or other boat.

 

The beach:

Larger and sandier than most of the swimming holes on our list, except Mendocino’s Lilies Beach and the sites along the Russian River.


The crowd:

Probably just you. Not too many people come here, perhaps because of the canoeing distance from Dos Rios.


Problems:

Unknown legal status; directions need improving; trash; proximity to train tracks.

Round Valley

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Rating: C

You may have canoodled, but have you ever canuded? It’s the art of paddling a canoe — nude or not — to a nude swimming hole. And it’s also a preferred way to reach this Eel River site, along with others that are nearby. Other options include rowing or hiking. This beach, north of Willits is a sandy bank along the Eel River where you can pull your watercraft up on the bank, take off your clothes, and plunge into the invigorating water. 


Legal status:

Believed to be part of Round Valley Reservation.

 

How to find it:

Follow directions for Dos Rios, Poon Kinny Ridge, and North Poon Kinny. The Round Valley swimming hole is some 5-to-10 miles north of North Poon Kinny. If you’re coming by canoe, give yourself another hour past North Poon Kinny.


The beach:

Same as North Poon Kinny.


The crowd:

Naturists, fishermen and fisherwomen, and canoers all come here to cool off.

 

Problems:

Unknown legal status; directions need improving; trash; proximity to train tracks.

North Poon Kinny Ridge

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Rating: C

A small, sandy beach, mixed with rocks, and cool, deep water make North Poon Kinny a nice stop on your canoe ride along the river, especially if you have an urge to swim and sunbathe while wearing nothing more than your birthday suit.

 

Legal status:

Unknown.

 

How to find it:

Follow directions to Dos Rios. The Eel River hole is about one to two hours north of Poon Kinny Ridge by canoe.


The beach:

The skinny on Kinny is that there’s not much sand here. The water is fairly shallow this year.


The crowd:

Even fewer people than at Dos Rios and Poon Kinny Ridge.

 

Problems:

Unknown legal status; directions need improving; trash; proximity to train tracks.

Poon Kinny Ridge

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Rating: C

You may have canoodled, but have you ever canuded? It’s the art of paddling a canoe — nude or not — to a nude swimming hole. And it’s also a preferred way to reach this Eel River site, along with others that are nearby. Other options include rowing or hiking. This beach, north of Willits is a sandy bank along the Eel River where you can pull your watercraft up on the bank, take off your clothes, and plunge into the invigorating water. Although it has a somewhat smaller beach than the one at Dos Rios, the Poon Kinny’s swimming hole is just as invigorating, especially on a hot summer day.

 

Legal status:

Unknown.

 

How to find it:

Follow directions to Dos Rios: from the Bay Area, head north on Highway 101 to Willits; from the Mendocino coast, go east on Highway 20 to Willits. Follow 101 north past Willits to Longvale, then travel northeast on Highway 162 to Dos Rios. The first of the skinny-dipping holes is several miles north of town. The beach is on the Eel River along the Poon Kinny Ridge, between Dos Rios and the southern border of Round Valley Reservation.


The beach:

Larger and sandier than most of the swimming holes on our list, except Mendocino’s Lilies Beach and the sites along the Russian River.


The crowd:

A few skinny-dippers, anglers, and boaters.


Problems:

Unknown legal status; directions need improving; trash; proximity to train tracks.

Dos Rios

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Rating: C

You may have canoodled, but have you ever canuded? It’s the art of paddling a canoe — nude or not — to a nude swimming hole. And it’s also a preferred way to reach this Eel River site, along with others that are nearby. Other options include rowing or hiking. This beach, north of Willits is a sandy bank along the Eel River where you can pull your watercraft up on the bank, take off your clothes, and plunge into the invigorating water.  Access to the hole is believed to be from the area near Dos Rios to the south and little Cummings to the northwest.  The nearest large towns are Laytonville and Leggett.  

 

Legal status:

Not known.

 

How to find it:

From the Bay Area, head north on Highway 101 to Willits; from the Mendocino coast, go east on Highway 20 to Willits. Follow 101 north past Willits to Longvale, then travel northeast on Highway 162 to Dos Rios. The first of the skinny-dipping holes is several miles north of town.

 

The beach:

Larger and sandier than most of the swimming holes on our list, except Mendocino’s Lilies Beach and the sites along the Russian River.


The crowd:

Fishermen, boaters, and small numbers of skinny-dippers show up here.


Problems:

Unknown legal status; directions need improving; trash; proximity to train tracks.

Willits Nude Hole

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Rating: C

At Willits’ nude swimming hole, “just about everyone goes nude,” says Mary. “In fact, if you leave your clothes on, it’s considered strange.” But don’t worry, nobody’s going to haul you away if you don’t conform to local tradition. In fact, Willits has both nude and non-nude holes, so there are plenty of choices available. The town’s skinny-dipping site is about 30 minutes from downtown. “It’s a great place to visit from spring into the early autumn,” adds Mary. “It tends to be warm, but not overly hot.”  Visitors follow paved roads from town and then turn onto a rutted road that leads to the river. You can pick from a number of holes on either side of the water. “It’s a miserable, hot, dirty road, with lots of dust,” says Mary. And you may get a surprise in the water if “you feel something nipping at your feet,” tells Mary’s husband, Bill. Depending on the time of year, “little black clouds” of small fish or possibly pollywogs may emerge from under river rocks and swarm around you. Bring water shoes to wear along the shore, which has both sand and rocks. Except for the rutted road and small, somewhat ticklish fish, expect a day of fun at this mellow, clothing-free sun spot.

 

Legal status:

Unknown.


How to find it:

From San Francisco, take Highway 101 north to Willits. In downtown Willits, turn right on E. Commercial Street and, passing the library and fairgrounds, continue straight. At the curve, bear left. Look for a driving range on the right and a white building on the left. At the street with the white building, turn left. A mile or so later, turn right. The Hearst Willits Road sign is a good landmark. If you see it, keep going straight until you come to Tomki Creek. Cross the bridge over the creek, then turn left onto the first road, which parallels the creek. Note: it’s mostly dirt, with intermittent pavement. You’ll soon come to a spot where you can turn left or go uphill. Drive uphill until you arrive at Hearst. After Hearst, look for a steel bridge on your left. Before or at the bridge, on the left, check for a deeply rutted road. Turn left and follow car tracks to the river. Park and walk upstream or downstream to any of several skinny-dipping holes.

 

The beach:

A series of swimming holes dotting both sides of the river for the length of a city block. The beaches are mainly gravely riverbanks, with some sand. “The best hole, which is deep, is next to a rock formation on the other side of the river,” says Bill. “For some nice holes with faster water, walk upstream.”

 

The crowd:

“Depending on when you visit and which spot you pick, you can be by yourself or, on a hot weekend, with 10 or 20 people,” says Mary. A few visitors have bonfires on the beach. Almost everybody is nude, according to Mary.

 

Problems:

Unknown legal status; nipping fish; rutted and dusty roads; gravel-strewn riverbank.

Eel River

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Rating: C

Along the electrifyingly beautiful Eel River, there are at least seven holes used for clothing-optional swimming including this one, which is mainly visited by local residents. It’s located on the south fork of the river, near the town of Pillsbury.

 

Legal status:

Part of Mendocino National Forest.

 

How to find it:

From San Francisco, head north on Highway 101, passing Santa Rosa and Ukiah, to Route 20. Take Route 20 east about five miles to the Potter Valley cutoff on your left and follow it northeast past the town of Potter Valley, north of Upper Lake. Follow the signs to Lake Pillsbury. After you climb a ridge and begin to go back down, follow the left fork in the road. Access to the south fork of the Eel is from this road, some 10 miles south of Van Arsdale Reservoir and Cape Horn Dam. The reservoir and dam are south of Pillsbury. Consult a good map.


The beach:

Small but comfortable, a good spot to soak up a few rays next to a deep swimming hole.

 

The crowd:

Just a few bathers in the buff, plus suited swimmers too.

 

Problems:

Increased trash; directions could be improved.

Elsewhere on Big River

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To try four other clothing-optional riverbanks on Big River, walk downstream to a series of fun swimming holes.  Some of the spots are “maybe waist deep,” says regular visitor Brian.  But with increased winter rains, he reports that “at a few spots, you can even jump into the water.” However, due to the rocks in the river, total nudity isn’t recommended.  Suggests Bill Johnson, of San Francisco:  “Bring some old shoes you can wear for wading.” We call these beaches Two Bends, Three Bends, Five Bends, and Six Bends.

 

Legal status:

Part of the Big River unit of Mendocino Headlands State Park.

 

How to find it:

Follow directions to Lilies, then walk two, three, five, and six bends downstream along the river, which at times resembles a creek.

 

The beach:

Little riverbank sand shoals with cool water that may be shallow or moderately deep.

 

The crowd:

Probably just you.

 

Problems:

Rocky river bottom; needs better directions; anti-nudity regulations may be enforced by state rangers in the future.

Boyles Swimming Hole

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Rating: C

Also as Dead Man’s Hole, Boyles mostly draws suited swimmers to a site that’s further up Big River from Lilies Beach and just east of Mendocino Woodlands State Park. But a few skinny-dippers also hike or bike to Boyles, which even has a great rope swing. Take the trail that begins at Lilies. The crowd here is a little noisier and more social than the more laid-back types found at Lilies.

One nagging problem is that although access is blocked to recreational vehicles by fallen trees, “motorcycles are still an issue,” says Stephanie Anderson, park manager of the nearby Mendocino Woodlands Camp Association. “Motorcyclists are finding a way through any inch [of road] they can.”

 

Legal status:

Part of the Big River unit of Mendocino Headlands State Park. A park plan says that swimming at Boyles is “currently not restricted,” a possible indication that nudity may be allowed to continue.

 

How to find it:

Follow directions to Lilies Beach. Park where the dirt road ends at Big River and, turning left, parking where you see other cars pulled over. “When you exit your vehicle, you’ll be facing a yellow gate with a bridge viewable behind it,” tells Brian, a local resident. “Take the trail that starts there and stay on it until you arrive at Boyles.” For most walkers, the hike from the Lilies area and the Mendocino Woodlands Camp property will be quick. “I can walk there in 10 minutes,” says Anderson. Boyles is east and slightly south of Lilies. For location, see the right side of this map or go here.

 

The beach:

A nice deep swimming hole with a rope swing.

 

The crowd:

Most of the several to dozen or so visitors on an average day will probably be suited. And on some days, the scene is downright crowded. “There’s been a ton of people down at Boyles,” said Anderson. “There’s more beer drinking and more trash there than at Lilies,” says Jeanne Coleman, education director of the Mendocino Woodlands Camp Association. On days when Boyles isn’t busy, a few skinny-dippers can be found plunging into the cool, invigorating water.


Problems:

Same as Lilies, plus motorcycles on trail (see above) and a rowdier crowd.

 

Lilies Beach

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2

Rating: A

Mendocino’s Lilies Beach, one of Northern California’s top swimming holes, has more water than the last few years. “And,” adds Jeanne Coleman, the affable education director of the nearby Mendocino Woodlands Camp Association, “people can’t drive to it because of a fallen bay tree, so it’s never crowded.” Coleman’s never seen more than 30 people there, and that group was on a field trip from the Woodlands. “I’m looking forward to going there right now,” she told us last summer. “I like it because it keeps getting sunlight late into the day and has a nice gravel sand bar.” Plus, when we spoke with her, Lilies’ stream orchids were in full bloom.

Lilies is great to visit in summer or early fall, when temperatures often rise into the 80’s, even though it may be only in the 50’s just down the street in nearby Mendocino village. Depending on the previous winter’s storms, roads leading from Little Lake Road near Highway 1 in Mendo may be rutted, but usually passable. Expect a nice, fairly mellow crowd with a mix of men and women with up to half of them nude, a drop from 10 years ago. There’s usually a sprinkling of youths, who deputies sometimes cite for underage drinking. In the past, some visitors have complained about trash and noise from adjacent homeless camps, but the campers have only occasionally been spotted in recent years. “Nobody cares whether you have clothes on,” adds Coleman. “And it gets less traffic and trash than anywhere else nearby. I often see people stop off who have been mountain biking.” 

 

Legal status:

Part of the Big River unit of Mendocino Headlands State Park. According to a park planning document, the hole at Lilies is considered a “local gathering spot” and swimming there is “currently not restricted,” a sign that nudity may be permitted to continue.

 

How to find it:

From Albion, take Highway 1 north to Mendocino, then turn right on Little Lake Road, the first right turn past the main Mendocino turnoff sign. Drive four or five miles east on Little Lake until you see a sign for Mendocino Woodlands. Follow the dirt road that starts there for about three miles. When you see the Woodlands retreat, go right about .3 miles, until the dirt road ends next to Big River. Park just off the road, where you see other cars pulled over. Follow the trail that begins there a quarter mile to the beach. Or, to save 1.5 miles, from Mendocino drive 3.5 miles east on Little Lake until you spot a dirt road with a yellow Forest Service gate. Follow the road to a second yellow gate. Just past the gate, at the juncture of several roads, turn right and take the dirt road to the parking area.  The walk from the Woodlands only takes about 20 minutes.


The beach:

Are you ready to enjoy a beautiful forest riverbank with nice water for swimming? If so, then you’ll probably like Lilies. Bring flip-flops or old shoes to wear in the rock-strewn creek. To reach the beach from the path, wade across the water to a site that’s part sand and also has some gravel.  


The crowd:

Anywhere from a few (more the norm) to 20 people can usually be found at Lilies, depending on the time of year and weather, according to frequent visitor Henry. That’s quite a plunge from the crowds that came in the ’80s and ’90s, when some 50 to 200 users would appear on hot summer days, nine out of 10 of them usually going nude. Nudists, including small groups and families who often come in the summer, enjoy the town’s favorite swimming hole along with swimsuit-wearing teens and adults.

 

Problems:

Increased ticketing of off-road drivers and underage drinkers reported; bumpy, rutted roads after heavy winter rains; trash near parking area; poison oak may be present; rocky river bottom; cold water; long walk to beach.

Gualala River

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Rating: C

Are you planning to travel on Highway 1 north of Sea Ranch? If it’s not too windy or foggy, then a stop at this little beach, which is used by nudes and prudes alike, may provide the perfect respite. Want to stay longer?  There’s a campground nearby. Tip: bring a jacket and windbreak with you in case weather conditions change.

 

Legal status:

Unknown.


How to find it:

The beach is one mile south of the town of Gualala and 1.5 miles north of Gualala Point County Park. From Bodega Bay, drive north on Highway 1 past Fort Ross, Plantation, and Sea Ranch. Look for cars parked on Highway 1 just past the park boundary at Gualala River, the first landmark you’ll see after the park. Access to the river mouth is by some dirt roads on the ocean side.

 

The beach:

Big and sandy, but sometimes buffeted by breezes.

 

The crowd:

Numbers depend on the weather and the time of year. On the sunniest summer days, no more than a few dozen visitors are usually present.


Problems:

Wind; fog; cool temperatures; lack of seclusion.

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