Food & Drink

Best of the Bay 2013: BEST ZAP IN A GLASS

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One of the most amazing recent dishes to smack the local foodie scene upside the head: Mission Chinese Food’s Chongqing chicken wings, the little crispy limbs buried in so many “explosive” chili peppers that one bite actually numbs your entire mouth. It’s the weirdest, most viscerally addictive experience on our menus. But what if we told you it was also available in cocktail form? Wow and ouch! The Alembic’s Nine Volt leapt onto the ever-innovative Haight Street bar’s summer cocktail menu this year (crafted by bar manager Danny Louie) and zapped us to attention. Served with white Szechuan peppers — yep, sourced from Mission Chinese — but gorgeously balanced with Aviation gin, green tea, and grape juice, this baby gives out a recharging tongue-in-the-socket thrill without any battery-acid stomach repercussions. Here’s hoping the Nine Volt sticks around through winter: we could use the heat.

1725 Haight, SF. (415) 666-0822, www.alembicbar.com

Best of the Bay 2013: BEST BORSCHT IN BERNAL

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Even if you don’t much care for piroshkis (although if that’s the case, we feel only sorrow in our hearts for you), the borscht will keep you coming back to Anda Piroshki. Tucked away in the local mini-mall of the Marketplace on Cortland, the counter’s proprietor Anna Tvelova keeps things simple by offering only a handful of menu options. The signature Anda Piroshki borscht is one of the tastiest we’ve ever encountered — no mushy puree, this savory-sweet beet soup is a chunky, earthy stew of slow-cooked veggies and copious dill simmered in a broth and sold in six-dollar pints so flavorful it’s hard to believe that they’re vegan. But they are.

The Marketplace, 331 Cortland, SF. (415) 821-9905, www.andapiroshki.com

Best of the Bay 2013: BEST BEST “MADE” PIZZA

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If San Francisco’s classier pizza joints ever threw down in some kind of mozzarella-fueled turf war, the smart money would be on Capo’s — the year-old North Beach joint that’s just as versed in Prohibition Era gangster culture as it is in tasty pizza. Chef Tony Gemignani clearly knows what he’s doing with his award-winning, Chicago-style pies (four choices of crust, from deep dish to “cracker thin”), but the man also has a flair for décor: hand-painted tin ceiling, a 1930s phone booth that actually functions, a bar that pays homage to the Golden Gate Bridge, and snappy red leather booths themed around gangsters of note — with memorabilia to match. Where else can you enjoy Quattro Forni (a pie specialty made using four ovens!) while admiring poker chips once owned by Al Capone? Nowhere else, wise guy. Capisce?

641 Vallejo, SF. (415) 986-8998, www.sfcapos.com

Best of the Bay 2013: BEST BUN NOODLIN’

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Yes, you will do it in part for the Instagram. However, the hypebeasts were right on this one: Nombe’s ramenburger is something any self-respecting gourmand in this town has to try. (Curious folks waited over an hour to try one at the SF Street Food Festival, and no one laughed at them.) The burger of Wagyu beef and pork belly tucked between two ramen noodle buns is a culinary voyage, sometimes accompanied by miso, shiitake, and blue cheese if you’re looking for a true umami blast-off. Pro tip: come to Japanese-style izakaya Nombe on half-off wine bottle Wednesday and please, sort out the appropriate photo filter after you eat the thing. This is one burger that is best devoured straight from the kitchen, before the hype (or noodle) has had a chance to cool.

2491 Mission, SF. (415) 681-7150, www.nombesf.com

Best of the Bay 2013: BEST ALL-NATURAL SWEETIE

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Juice may be the perky cheerleader in a made-for-tweens drama, but smoothies are the quiet girl that the plot eventually turns on — you know, the one with deeper substance, a touch of shy sweetness, perhaps a few creamy curves. Maybe smoothies aren’t hip to the cleansing trend, and maybe they don’t come packaged in a collectible glass bottle, but nobody puts them in the corner. The ingredient list for Morning Brew Cafe’s Happiness smoothie is deliciously minimal — avocado and whole milk — but your satisfaction will reach maximal heights. The silky combination of rich, ripe avo and thick dairy makes for a delicious sip and a full belly of healthy fat and vitamins. It’s a real meal, great as breakfast or post-workout replenishment. If you’re not a fan of the animal products, request almond milk and reap the additional protein benefits.

401 Sansome, SF. (415) 986-4206, www.morningbrew.com

Best of the Bay 2013 Readers Poll: Food and Drink

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BEST OF THE BAY 2013: READERS POLL

Food and Drink

 

BEST OVERALL RESTAURANT

NOPA

560 Divisadero, SF

www.nopasf.com

 

BEST NEW RESTAURANT

COQUETA

The Embarcadero

Pier 5, SF

www.coquetasf.com

 

BEST BUDGET RESTAURANT

TU LAN

8 6th St, SF

 

BEST SPLURGE RESTAURANT

GARY DANKO

800 N Point, SF

www.garydanko.com

 

BEST LATE NIGHT RESTAURANT

GRUBSTAKE

1525 Pine, SF

www.sfgrubstake.com

 

BEST ROMANTIC RESTAURANT

FOREIGN CINEMA

2534 Mission, SF

www.foreigncinema.com

 

BEST FOOD/DRINK FESTIVAL (TIE)

EAT REAL

www.eatrealfest.com

SF STREET FOOD

www.sfstreetfoodfest.com

 

BEST FOOD CART

THE CHAIRMAN TRUCK

www.thechairmantruck.com

 

BEST FARMERS MARKET

FERRY PLAZA

1 Ferry Bldg, SF

www.cuesa.org

 

BEST PIZZA

LITTLE STAR

Multiple locations

www.littlestarpizza.com

 

BEST SANDWICHES

IKE’S PLACE

Multiple locations

www.ilikeikesplace.com

 

BEST BURRITOS

TAQUERIA CANCUN

2288 Mission; 3211 Mission St; 1003 Market St, SF

 

BEST SMALL PLATES

CHA CHA CHA

Multiple locations

www.cha3.com

 

BEST BURGER AND FRIES

SUPER DUPER

Multiple locations

www.superdupersf.com

 

BEST BARBECUE

MEMPHIS MINNIE’S

576 Haight, SF

www.memphisminnies.com

 

BEST SUSHI

ICHI SUSHI

3369 Mission, SF

www.ichisushi.com

 

BEST BOWL OF NOODLES

KATANA-YA

430 Geary, SF

www.katanayausa.com

 

BEST SALADS

BLUE BARN

Multiple locations

www.bluebarngourmet.com

 

BEST SEAFOOD

BAR CRUDO

655 Divisadero, SF

www.barcrudo.com

 

BEST SOUL FOOD

BRENDA’S

652 Polk, SF

www.frenchsoulfood.com

 

BEST ITALIAN

PALIO D’ASTI

640 Sacramento, SF

www.paliodasti.com

 

BEST MIDDLE EASTERN

LA MEDITERRANEE

Multiple locations

www.cafelamed.com

 

BEST INDIAN

DOSA

Multiple locations

www.dosasf.com

 

BEST MEXICAN (TIE)

PUERTO ALEGRE

546 Valencia, SF

NOPALITO

www.nopalitosf.com

 

BEST CHINESE

MISSION CHINESE

2234 Mission, SF

www.missionchinesefood.com

 

BEST THAI

LERS ROS

Multiple locations

www.lersros.com

 

BEST VEGETARIAN

GREENS

Fort Mason, Bldg A, SF

www.greensrestaurant.com

 

BEST VEGAN

MILLENNIUM

580 Geary, SF

www.millenniumrestaurant.com

 

BEST BREAKFAST

DOTTIE’S TRUE BLUE CAFÉ

28 6th St, SF

www.dotties.biz

 

BEST BRUNCH

MISSION BEACH CAFÉ

198 Guerrero, SF

www.missionbeachcafesf.com

 

BEST LUNCH

MARKET & RYE

Multiple locations

www.marketandrye.com

 

BEST APPETIZERS

SAUCE

Multiple locations

www.saucesf.com

 

BEST DESSERT

HEY, COOKIE!

www.heycookiesf.com

 

BEST SERVICE

GARY DANKO

800 N Point St, SF

www.garydanko.com

 

BEST FOOD/DRINKS WEBSITE

TABLEHOPPER

www.tablehopper.com

 

BEST CAFÉ

ATLAS CAFÉ

3049 20th St, SF

www.atlascafe.net

 

BEST CUP OF COFFEE

SIGHTGLASS

270 7th St, SF

www.sightglasscoffee.com

 

BEST CUP OF TEA

SAMOVAR

Multiple locations

www.samovarlife.com

 

BEST OVERALL BAR

MONARCH

101 6th St, SF

www.monarchsf.com

 

BEST NEW BAR

VIRGILS SEA ROOM

3152 Mission, SF

www.virgilssf.com

 

BEST DIVE BAR

EL RIO

3158 Mission, SF

www.elriosf.com

 

BEST SWANKY BAR

REDWOOD ROOM

495 Geary Street, SF

 

BEST SINGLES BAR

MADRONE ART BAR

500 Divisadero, SF

www.madroneartbar.com

 

BEST SPORTS BAR

HI-TOPS

2247 Market, SF

www.hitopssf.com

 

BEST HAPPY HOUR

GREEN’S SPORTS BAR

2239 Polk, SF

 

BEST WINERY (TIE)

V. SATTUI WINERY

1111 White Lane, St. Helena

www.vsattui.com

BLUXOME STREET WINERY

53 Bluxome St, SF

www.bluxomewinery.com

 

BEST WINE BAR

NOETECA

1551 Dolores, SF

www.noeteca.com

 

BEST BREWERY

ANCHOR BREWING

1705 Mariposa, SF

www.anchorbrewing.com

 

BEST SELECTION OF BEERS

TORONADO

547 Haight, SF

www.toronado.com

 

BEST CREATIVE COCKTAILS

TRICK DOG

3010 20th St, SF

www.trickdogbar.com

 

BEST BLOODY MARY

ZEITGEIST

199 Valencia St, SF

www.zeitgiestsf.com

 

BEST BAR STAFF

DNA LOUNGE

375 11th St, SF

www.dnalounge.com

 

BEST CANNABIS EDIBLES

THE GREEN CROSS

4218 Mission St, SF

www.thegreencross.org

 

BEST BAKERY

ARIZMENDI

Multiple locations

www.arizmendi.coop

 

BEST BUTCHER SHOP

AVEDANO’S

235 Cortland, SF

www.avedanos.com

 

BEST CHEESE SHOP

COW GIRL CREAMERY

1 Ferry Bldg, SF

www.cowgirlcreamery.com

 

BEST CHOCOLATIER

FOG CITY NEWS

455 Market St, SF

www.fogcitynews.com

 

Put ’em in the glass

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marke@sfbg.com

BEER + WINE You may be a growler geek, a craft connoisseur, an export expert, a noble hops know-it-all … but are you a real Beer Nerd? A new Trivial Pursuit-like game from local publishing powerhouse Chronicle Books (www.chroniclebooks.com) tests your brew knowledge — “brewledge”? — as you advance around a colorful board. But here’s the delicious twist: players can land on “blind taste test” squares and really show their hops IQ. It’s a drinking game where drinking can actually help you win. Truly, we live in an age of wonders.

 

BRING IT, MAKE IT, RIDE IT

Yes, yes, small-batch urban wineries are still all the rage, but how does one distinguish itself in the great grape landscape? Well, if you’re the folks behind Tank 18 (1345 Howard, SF. www.tank18.com), you make your own wine, yes, but you also open up your beautiful, rustic-modern space for big events and parties (including a cheeky, sexy one during Folsom Street Fair) with a full bar. You also hit a sweet green spot with a BYOB-like event every third Saturday called “Sustainable Bottling” — patrons bring in rinsed-out bottles of wine they’ve already enjoyed at home to exchange for discounted, full Tank 18 bottles. Starting at $7.99 per bottle, that’s an upcycle we’ll gladly uncork.

Then there’s the Dogpatch WineWorks (2455 Third St, SF. www.dogpatchwineworks.com), which opened last year in a huge 15,000-square-foot space, and follows in the footsteps of Potrero Hill fave Crushpad by inviting people to come make their own wine. Budding vintners get to choose their own vineyard and varietal adventure, and the Dogpatch experts guide everyone through the process in a casual environment. This is the kind of team-building corporate exercise we’d like to see replace trust falls and retreats.

Oh, and did you know that you can take a bike tour of SF’s urban wine scene and learn some of the awesome century-old history of local grape cultivation? Gears and Grapes (www.gearsandgrapes.com) offers a breezy $99 day-ride through the city’s hotspots, stopping for tastings along the way. “Over 100 wineries flourished in the places that new tech start-ups now thrive,” G&G informs us. Can we have those wineries back, please?

 

SPEAKEASY SMOKIN’

Speakeasy (1195 Evans, SF. www.goodbeer.com) just celebrated its sweet 16 with a huge block party in the Bayview outside its brewery. But if you missed it, never fear. You can visit Speakeasy’s lovely Tap Room (Tue-Thu, 3-8pm; Fri-Sat, 1-9pm; Sun, 1-6pm) for some primo tastes, possibly including some of the new brews debuted at the block party (Bourbon Barrel-Aged Scarface Imperial Stout, 2009 Old Godfather Barleywine). Here’s an extra tip — Sundays they invite some of the city’s yummiest BBQ in to soak up some of those suds. Upcoming Smokin’ Sundays feature Memphis Minnie’s on Oct. 13 and Baby Blues BBQ on Nov. 10.

 

OH YEAH, THAT THING

Just like the October appearance of seasonal craft beer favorites — Anchor Brewing’s deep, rich Big Leaf Maple, 21st Amendment’s nicely spiced Fireside Chat, and, on a broader scale, Shock Top’s Pumpkin Wheat — so we must tighten our lederhosen in preparation for Oktoberfest by the Bay (Sept. 20-22, Pier 48, SF. www.oktoberfestbythebay.com). In addition to the hordes of revelers, you can catch entertainment from the Chico Bavarian Band accompanied by traditional dancing from the Nature Friends Schuhplattler (despite the name, not a nude oompah-pah association, alas). Plus, of course, a million steins of Spaten bier. Expect an overload of dirndls. *

 

Frankenkeg

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emilysavage@sfbg.com

BEER + WINE It seemed to just appear one day, lurking around the corner of the kitchen entryway. It was huge, buzzing, rectangular, and nearly five feet tall. Its glossy belly gurgled with homemade California Common brown ale, a slightly off concoction, similar to a typical Anchor Steam beer, that nevertheless tasted quite fresh, and spewed forth from the newly attached tap.

And that’s when I learned to love the scrappy new project in my kitchen: the Frankenkeg. It’s a bulky, DIY kegerator pieced together by my husband, Marcus, over the past few months, after a homebrewing obsession that began a little over three years ago. And although it’s a work in progress, it’s a real beauty in the way you’ll always love the rescued dog you taught new tricks. Plus, with three taps, it churns out a pretty constant stream of the good stuff.

The whole homebrewing thing started off far more inauspiciously, after a few friends in the East Bay and Outer Richmond area began their own homebrew experiments.

“I just always thought it was too difficult, but once I saw [my friends] doing it, I was like, ‘okay, I can do this,'” says Marcus, a GIS specialist for an environmental nonprofit in the East Bay. “And you know, I always need a hobby, and this one involves making stuff. You get to make something and watch it grow.”

He began where many budding homebrewers in the Bay Area start: Brewcraft, a devoted homebrew shop in the Richmond district, led by brewmaster Gregory William Miller the Thirdstein, aka Griz. Griz, who also teaches free classes at the shop, was once quoted on KAWL as saying, “I learned how to brew out of the back of a Field and Stream magazine.” From my limited interactions with him at Brewcraft, it’s clear he knows a whole lot about the craft of beer.

Marcus learned through Griz’s store and also by going to San Francisco Homebrewers Guild events, like a recent one at Cervecería de Mateveza at 18th and Church, where the brewers crafted a Dulce de Leche imperial stout. The San Francisco Homebrewers Guild is a combination of two groups that merged in January 2013, in which there are 140 dues-paying members and nearly 500 in the Meetup group. The founder and president is Chris Cohen. Group VP Kevin Inglin says the experience level in the group is wide-ranging, “We have several brewers who have been at it for a decade or more and a large group of people new to the hobby.” Inglin, an Army officer who is working to open his own nano brewery with his wife in the city, started homebrewing in 1996 with an ingredient kit he bought from a display set up in the corner of a German bar, while living in the South. He’s since homebrewed in Tennessee, Alabama, Hawaii, Virginia, Texas, Germany, and California.

Marcus first picked up his kit from Brewcraft, which included a big glass fermenting jug. His initial recipes, cooked up on our stove in a huge boiling pot, were all from Griz. He’s since learned to switch up ingredients to form his own concoctions by listening to podcasts like The Jamil Show, and visiting websites including Home Brew Talk, the Homebrewers Association Forum, and the homebrewing subreddit.

And Marcus enters his beers onto online recipe toolkit, Brewtoad. The site helps keep a batch within the style and tells you how it will taste with all the ingredients because, “to me it’s a little bit abstract: you throw all this stuff in there; I know this thing will do that, but I don’t know how much of each. So it will tell you, if you add this much crystal 40 — a grain that adds color and sugars — this is what the final color will be, and if it’s within the style you’re trying to make.”

In the past few years, Marcus has made batches of Imperial stout, IPA, cider, black ale, and a hibiscus saison inspired by Pacific Brewing Laboratory, which we sipped at Outside Lands.

The kegerator idea came in when he realized he was spending entire evenings cleaning out old bottles, only to use the same bottles for the next batch of homebrews, usually enjoyed in our own apartment with friends, or at the park.

He started with the smallest piece of the equation, hence why I was so surprised by the final, monstrous outcome. At first, it was just the miniature gift box-sized temperature controller, which he got the idea for off a homebrew forum. The STC1000 is the part he got off Amazon.com, which is just the switch and the temperature probe. He attached that to a plastic project box, which he got at a hardware store.

Gathering up parts for the eventual kegerator, he found a deal online for four Cornelius (Corny) kegs on a homebrewing site. His kegs have the pinlock type of closure, and were originally used as syrup containers by the Coca-Cola company, likely at a fast food restaurant.

Next came the beast itself: the chest freezer, which would eventually hold the Corny kegs, a 20-pound CO2 tank, and that little temperature box attached to the outside, controlling the temp of the beer fermenting inside.

He picked up the chest freezer from another hobbyist on Craigslist, who lived in Oakley, near Antioch. The man raised pitbulls for show, had a garage full of fishing lures, and also raised pigeons — which explained why there was bird shit all over the chest freezer at first. It’s since been vigorously scrubbed down and lacquered with appliance paint then spray painted white.

On a sweltering weekend afternoon a few months back, our friends in Oakland helped us build a wood collar, which sits between the lid and the body of the chest freezer to give it extra height. It makes it roomier for the Corny Kegs and that oversized CO2 tank — which will likely fill around 20 to 30 kegs before it needs to be refilled. They also helped drill holes to attach the taps, because how else are we going to transform our apartment into a brewlab?

The beast was trucked to our third-story walkup and dragged into the kitchen with the help of those same friends. And now it sits, all seven cubic feet of it, chilling and cleansing two brand new batches of homebrew.

We cooked up both in the past week, one a pale ale and one an IPA. I used “we” liberally here, as I’m more of a sous chef, holding up pots and stirring when needed. The pale ale is a typical West Coast ale, in which we used Chinook bittering hops and cascade, and newer hop Amarillo, which “supposedly has a pineapple flavor.”

The IPA also includes a lot of Amarillo, along with simcoe for bittering, and citra at the end. The husband fears the IPA might be a bit too bitter for most palates, hence the more balanced pale ale, which will be ready to spill forth from the first tap come next month. The IPA might take slightly longer, as fermentation processes vary, and can take anywhere from a few days to months.

And to answer your question: yes, you’re all invited to the next tasting party.

For more information on the San Francisco Homebrewers Guild, see our Q&A.

 

Warm-ups

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culture@sfbg.com

COCKTAIL HOUR Yes, the rest of the country is sipping piña coladas and pink lemonade margaritas, while we shiver and pour whiskey into our hot tea. No problem: this is a primo time to ditch the sickly sweet and explore some solid bellywarmers in the cocktail category.

 

IRISH COFFEE AT BUENA VISTA CAFE

Let’s start with this classic — Buena Vista claims that it was invented here, why not, and the Fisherman’s Wharf-adjacent cafe’s gotten a rep for being a tourist magnet. Don’t let that detour you, it’s all super-charming. Served piping hot with coffee, whiskey and topped with whipped cream, the Buena’s Irish Coffee ($8) is pretty perfect for sipping as you imagine knitting little sweaters for the seagulls darting over the frigid bay.

2765 Hyde, SF. www.thebuenavista.com

 

MEXICAN HOT CHOCOLATE AT TRADITION

Coffee not your thing? Pop over to Tradition in the Tenderloin and see if you can handle its version of Mexican Hot Chocolate ($10). Rich in vitamin agave (this drink contains both mezcal and tequila), a few sips of this will thaw you out in no time. It’s usually on radition’s winter menu, but asking for it at the bar is well worth a try: even if they can’t whip one up, the bartenders will steer you in a warm direction.

441 Jones, SF. www.tradbar.com

 

CHAMOMILE TODDY AT BRASSERIE S&P

The easy-to-make hot toddy cocktail is a staple during cold weather. But the lovely Brasserie S&P in the Mandarin Oriental kicks it up a notch on the serenity scale by replacing the traditional bourbon with gin — and adding a pour of chamomile tea ($12). All that’s missing is the purr of a cat and a good hardcover book.

222 Sansome, SF. www.mandarinoriental.com

 

MANHATTAN SHAKE AT THE CORNER STORE

There’s nothing like a milkshake on a warm day, but yeah, about that…. This thick, rich Manhattan Shake ($10) is a nice compromise with SF weather. A cold concoction with the kick of a well-made Manhattan, the Corner Store’s treat will booze you up to the point that you’ll forget you’re drinking it in the fog.

5 masonic, SF. www.thecornerstore-sf.com

 

WHATAMELON AT ELIXIR

When the clouds part and we are blessed with hot day, Elixir has the perfect summer, fruit-filled cocktail menu. I originally visited in search of another warm drink for this list, but was instantly swayed by the bartender’s suggestion: a Whatamelon ($11). A tequila drink with watermelon juice, elderflower liqueur, agave nectar, and mint, it was light, tasty, and refreshing. Perfect for summer, even if just the summer in your mind.

3200 16th St., SF. www.elixirsf.com