Marcia Gagliardi Archives — San Francisco Bay Guardian Archive 1966

Let’s go eat

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October 7, 2014

culture@sfbg.com

CHOW NOW

Opening Wed/8 in the landmark Presidio Officers’ Club is Arguello (Main Post, 50 Moraga Ave, SF. www.ArguelloSF.com), from chef Traci Des Jardins. The 188-seat restaurant will feature Des Jardins’s heartfelt and homestyle Mexican cuisine — have you had her albondigas? — and there will even be an outdoor comal (griddle) for making tortillas. The restaurant has outdoor dining (it’s a heated patio!) and a bar too, under the direction of Enrique Sanchez, with more than 50 different types of tequila. Whether you’re in the area for a quick lunch or dinner (open Wednesday through Saturday), or Sunday brunch, Arguello has you covered. Drinks outside by the fire pit, also a good idea, right? Reservations will be available for dinner only.

Another spiffy opening: the rather spacious new home for Marlowe (500 Brannan, SF. www.marlowesf.com), which moved from its SoMa digs on Townsend into the nearby COCO500 space. The first big upgrades? There’s now a full bar, and the seating has doubled. There’s also a charming little enclosed patio, so I wish you luck scoring a table during these sunny Indian summer days and warm evenings (lunch and dinner are served, sweet). The décor theme continues with inspiration from butcher shops — it’s crisp and clean, with lots of tile and whitewashed walls — plus a bit of a bistro vibe with a banquette in tobacco and tables topped in marble and wood. And yeah, there’s that gleaming bar. You’ll find a new menu packed with bar bites (the warm deviled egg is pure evil), spiced jumbo Gulf shrimp, some seasonal soups and salads. Of course, the famed Marlowe burger is available. Speaking of, look for a late-night burger window to open soon. Yeah, that’s good stuff right there.

The ever-elegant Quince (470 Pacific Ave, SF. www.quincerestaurant.com) has reopened after an extensive two-month renovation by Douglas Durkin. No, you’re not confused: The doorway is new, and the bar and lounge area has moved into a more intimate space (you can enjoy choice selections at the Champagne Bar from Jai Wilson, tableside cocktails, and hors d’oeuvres or order á la carte off chef Michael Tusk’s tasting menus — and bonus, walk-ins are welcome). If you dream of hosting a private event at Quince, we can’t help you with the bill, but there are two new 12-seat private dining rooms (they moved into the former bar area). And if you get fired up at the idea of ringside seats, there’s a chef’s counter, with room for two (you also get a kitchen tour, a special menu, and lots of interaction with chef Michael Tusk). One more bonus: Cotogna, the casual sister next door, now has a private dining room in its working kitchen, with room for 12. Yup, just in time for holiday parties.

It’s also worth noting that Wise Sons Deli (3150 24th St., SF. www.wisesonsdeli.com) now offers dinner service at its 24th Street location, Thursday through Saturday nights. Look for dinner plates like braised brisket, smaller dishes like kasha varnishkas (toasted buckwheat, caramelized onion, and shmaltz tossed with bowtie pasta, yes!) but you can also take advantage of breakfast all day: Hello pastrami and eggs, you know you want it. Here’s your chance to get the hefty pastrami burger, and if you need to go to bed afterward, that’s OK. And one more thing: You won’t have to stand in a line at the register — there will be actual table service. How grown-up!

Marcia Gagliardi is the founder of the weekly tablehopper e-column; subscribe for more at www.tablehopper.com. Get her app: Tablehopper’s Top Late-Night Eats. On Twitter: @tablehopper.

Hype machine

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September 30, 2014

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culture@sfbg.com

CHOW NOW

When the website and ticketing software used to book the first tables at your restaurant crashes (just like Burning Man!), you could say you have a hot opening on your hands.

And it’s not some janky software either: It’s what Alinea and Next use in Chicago. No matter, it’s all working now, and people are waiting for the next block of reservations to be released — it’s first-come, first-served, but they’re transferable — for a table at Lazy Bear (3416 19th St, SF. www.lazybearsf.com) the pop-up-turned-legit restaurant that opened in the former Hi-Lo BBQ space in the Mission. Chef-owner David Barzelay is serving 11 courses at two seatings a night for 40 guests, Thursday through Monday nights.

It’s prix-fixe tasting menu, American with modern techniques, for (catch your breath) $120 per person; beverage pairings — under the guidance of bar manager Brandon Presbury and sommelier Marie-Louise Friedland — are an extra $50. Guests are seated at communal tables, so it kind of feels like a fun dinner party, and you can also walk into the kitchen and see what’s up. (Just don’t get in the way or touch anything without asking, mmmkay?). Sign up for the newsletter at the website to find out when the next block of tickets will be released.

Opening this week is The Hall (1028 Market, SF. www.thehallsf.com), a temporary food hall in the former and long-vacant Hollywood Billiards space. Many vendors have their own space within The Hall, like Fine & Rare (you may have tried its sustainable seafood dishes at Off the Grid); Cassia from the Fuki food truck, serving Moroccan and Peruvian cuisine; John Fink’s meaty The Whole Beast featuring gyros and a steak sandwich, seasonal Indian puveyors Raj + Singh, Little Green Cyclo serving pho and other soups you normally can’t get on its truck; Dignitá, a café with pastries; and Anchor Brewers and Distillers (cheers!). You can sit at picnic tables (both inside and outside). Food is served 8am–8pm, and the bar is open 11am–11pm.

BALLIN’ ON A BUDGET

San Francisco is really good at creating happy hours with great oyster specials. I mean, really, have you ever been in a city with so many $1 oyster deals? Casanova would approve. Here are a couple new options to add to your list. First up, Ferry Plaza Seafood (653 Union St, SF. www.ferryplazaseafood.com) in North Beach opens its doors at 3:30pm for happy hour, with a half-dozen oysters for $7, or a dozen for $12. There are some small plates, like chowder (a cup of New England, Manhattan, or combo of the two for $4), salmon rillettes for $10, sashimi for $12, and some beer and wine deals too ($4–$5). Available Monday through Friday 3:30pm–6pm (last call is 5:30pm), so don’t be late.

Have you had a chance to check out the new menu by recently hired chef James London at the Elite Cafe (2049 Fillmore St., SF. www.theelitecafe.com)? He’s doing a rockin’ job, with updated dishes like smoked beef tartare with a quail egg, and downright stellar shrimp and grits. But let’s talk oysters: There are happy hour oysters (3 for $5 and 6 for $9) every Monday through Friday 4pm–6pm and Saturdays and Sundays 3pm–5pm. Yeah, weekend oyster happy hour, how sweet is that? Pair them with a Bloody Mary and you’re set. You can also stick around for some live music, 6pm Mon–Wed, never a cover.

Marcia Gagliardi is the founder of the weekly tablehopper e-column; subscribe for more at www.tablehopper.com. Get her app: Tablehopper’s Top Late-Night Eats. On Twitter: @tablehopper.

Blame it on Rio

Michael Redmond

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September 23, 2014

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culture@sfbg.com

FEAST:BRAZIL Just when SF starts to cool down, it’s time to consider wiggling your toes in the fluffy sand of Ipanema, with a caipirinha in hand, no? Now that World Cup fever has subsided, hit up Rio de Janeiro before the Olympics start in August 2016. If you love the beach and/or the gays and a tropical vibe (raises hand), then Ipanema or Leblon is for you. I snagged an apartment just blocks from the beach, and as a solo female traveler, I felt safe the entire time. I have a post on what I learned about the beach culture of Rio on tablehopper.com (you’ll find it in the “Jetsetter” section). It’s a bit too long to share here. So, let’s talk about where to eat!

You’ll need to experience a Brazilian churrascaria, and I dug my lunch at Porcão Rio after my visit to the top of nearby Pão de Açúcar (Sugarloaf Mountain). The restaurant is huge, with a pretty view, and I could not believe the spread. Lunch was R$112 (about $50), featuring the biggest salad bar you’ll ever see in your life. But save some room, because the parade of meats is coming! Waddle out of there and then go pass out on the beach like the elephant seal you feel like.

Also on the checklist: feijoada, a hearty stew traditionally served on Saturday afternoon — although I’ve heard other Brazilian cities have different preferred days. A classic place (58 years old and counting) called Garden between Ipanema and Leblon was excellent, with garlicky black beans, beef tongue, pig’s ear and tail, linguiça, and thin air-dried meat, plus the classic accompaniments of shredded kale, aipim frito (fried yuca), farofa (toasted manioc flour, made from yuca), white rice, and orange supremes. Older crowd, and I dug the classy vibe. Also: heavy wine pours.

I am a huge fan of Brazilian/Portuguese pizza (it comes with hard-boiled egg, black olive, onion, and ham), and I found a good one at Alessandro E Federico in Leblon. Be sure to ask for the crazy hot piri piri sauce. It wasn’t the most amazing pizza of my life, but sitting on the terrace drinking sparkling rosé with a sexy carioca crowd did a lot.

You have to visit the Hippie Fair in Ipanema on Sundays so you can track down the Bahian food stand and try acarajé! An Afro-Brazilian dish from Bahia, by way of Nigeria, it will blow your mind. It’s a black-eyed pea fritter fried in dendê (palm oil), slathered with vatapá (a thick, rich, and spicy sauce made from shrimp, coconut milk, bread, cashews or peanuts), garlic, onion, and more dendê. And then it gets topped with baby fried shrimp. Request a few shakes of the hot sauce. Boom.

You’ll definitely want to hang out at a few of the botecos/botequims that feel like Spanish tapas bars — it’s where you’ll drink chopps (draft beers) and snack on petiscos like bolinhos (croquettes) and savory pasteis (little tarts). There’s the old-school Jobi, while Bar Bracarense had some of my favorite bites (like coxinha de frango with catupiry cheese).

One of my top Rio moments was brunch at the Copacabana Palace. Talk about a grand dame. Seriously, pinch me. Sunday brunch at Pérgula Restaurant is quite the spread (for R$170, about $75) — if it’s not too hot, you have to sit outside near the pool. From caviar and blini to platters of seafood, hot dishes, and desserts, the entire experience is truly glamorous. Be sure to try the sparkling wine from Cave Geisse, made in Brazil.

Check out Bip Bip for live music one evening, it’s such a groovy scene. Lot of history at this tiny place (since 1968) that spills out onto the street, and you can walk nearby to Restaurante O Caranguejo, a fab no-frills seafood joint. There’s a counter where you can stand and order a warm shrimp empada and a chopp and make new friends.

Via Sete in Ipanema has a fun scene and outdoor terrace. Get the grilled picanha (such tender and flavorful steak). Great spot for lunch and people watching.

For a special experience, however, head up to the hills of Santa Teresa and dine at

Aprazível. Let me paint a picture: a twinkling view, trees surrounding the open terrace, birds chirping, bossa nova playing, a smashing wine list with many Brazilian wines (a rarity in Rio), such nice servers, and freshly grilled hearts of palm, still in the stalk. Yes, this exists.

If there’s any way you can swing it, you have to stay at the Hotel Santa Teresa, a total dream of a place that used to be a coffee plantation, and is the picture of rustic chic. Think about it, even for a night so you can explore Santa Teresa, a bohemian neighborhood with galleries and cafés. (Although it’s not entirely a place you’ll want to walk around at night unescorted, jus’ sayin’.)

And there are a bunch of must-see sights, of course, like the colonial Centro area (don’t miss a visit to the Confeitaria Colombo, it’s gorgeous), the Jardim Botânico, and the Museu do Arte Contemporânea in Niterói. Just hop on over to the jetsetter section on tablehopper.com for more. Boa viagem!

Marcia Gagliardi is the founder of the weekly tablehopper e-column; subscribe for more at www.tablehopper.com. Get her app: Tablehopper’s Top Late-Night Eats. On Twitter: @tablehopper.

Fall color

Erica Hanna

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September 17, 2014

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culture@sfbg.com

TABLEHOPPING Lovers of fine wine are going to prick their ears up over this one: Mark Bright (Saison) is opening Bright’s Les Clos (234 Townsend, SF; www.lesclossf.com), a wine bar in SoMa, and let’s just say there will be Burgundy. A lot of it. Plus some fantastic French dishes from Shawn Gawle, previously the pastry chef at Saison, who also has great savory skills as well.

The place is more than just a wine bar — it’s designed to serve the neighborhood all day, whether you are coming in for eggs and a Sightglass cappuccino in the morning, nabbing canelés to go, a sandwich to bring back to your desk, or a wine flight after you punch the clock (with some fantastic cheese), and then there are so many options to feast on: frisée aux lardons, Parisienne gnocchi gratinée with Comté, or how about some moules à la provençale? You’ll also have 40 wines by the glass to choose from. Love the wine you had? There’s also a retail shop, and Bright’s partner in the venture, Cara Patricia Higgins, has deep wine knowledge. There will be classes too, special tastings … and Humphry Slocombe ice cream. Done. Look for an opening in mid-September.

Russian Hill residents will soon be getting their own wine bar, shop, and hangout at Union Larder (1945 Hyde, SF; www.unionlarder.com), from Melissa Gugni and Jay Esopenko of North Beach’s Little Vine. The 30-seat spot should be opening very soon, with a zinc bar, housemade salumi from their chef (Ramon Siewart), and get this: Kristi Bachman, the buyer at the Cheese School of SF, is the cheese director, selecting close to 100 cheeses. Whoa. The meat-and-cheese boards will be on another level, trust. Plus there will be oysters, sandwiches, salads, and lots of quality wine and retail items.

Fans of Brenda’s French Soul Food who live near the Divisadero corridor are going to be thrilled with this one: hopefully by mid-November, Brenda Buenviaje and her partner Libby Truesdell will be opening Brenda’s Meet & Three (919 Divisadero, SF) in the Blue Jay Café. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner will be on offer, and will include many Southern dishes, not just highlighting Brenda’s love for all things New Orleans. Think blue plate specials for lunch, and dinner means you take your pick from five or six proteins (like her delicious fried chicken or fried catfish) and three sides, with up to 15 in all, like smothered green beans and mac and cheese. Vegetarians will be able to make a full meal out of the sides. Everyone wins (and will get fat).

Here’s a story of a pop-up getting a brick-and-mortar location: Val Cantu of Californios (3115 22nd St, SF; www.californiossf.com) is going to be opening his restaurant in the Mission in the former Panchita’s 3. It’s going to be an intimate space, with 24 seats and seven at the chef’s counter. His cuisine style is a modern take on Mexican cuisine, with references to Californios and Alta California (you can Wiki that). There will be three tasting menus, all priced to be affordable ($45–<\d>$75): an omnivorous four-course, a vegetable four-course, and an extended seven- to 10-course menu. Look for a November opening.

Things continue to get sudsy: opening near Nob Hill this fall is Hogwash (582 Sutter, SF), just next door to Cantina. One of the owners is behind Zeki’s Bar, partnering with Paula Thompson — they brought in Rich Higgins to assemble the beer list (30 on draught). Look for gourmet sausages made in-house and other beer-friendly food, plus beer milkshakes and floats! The cool design is from Geremia Design, including custom-made communal tables that will assuredly inspire a social vibe. And then there’s the beer…

Folks who live or work out near Mission Bay will have a new and casual place on the waterfront for all three meals called Stem (499 Illinois, SF) from Bon Appétit Management Company (Public House, the Commissary). The menu will be mostly Mediterranean, and there will even be some ingredients from its edible garden. You’ll also find cocktails, coffee, and craft beer (and wine on tap). Bonuses: views of the bay, heated outdoor seating, fire pits, and bocce courts! It will seat 158, and is due in late fall. *

Marcia Gagliardi is the founder of the weekly tablehopper e-column; subscribe for more at www.tablehopper.com. Get her app: Tablehopper’s Top Late-Night Eats. On Twitter: @tablehopper.

What’s up, doc?

Michael Redmond

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September 9, 2014

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culture@sfbg.com

TABLEHOPPING Columbus Avenue in North Beach continues to rise as an exciting dining destination with the opening of Doc Ricketts (124 Columbus, SF; www.docricketts.com). It’s a historic location, with two different areas: there’s the restaurant, Doc Ricketts, and the basement (the former Purple Onion) is where you’ll find Doc’s Lab, opening this Friday; the space is keeping its history alive and will feature live entertainment, from music to comedy to literary events. It’s a strong team: owner Christopher Burnett of Darwin Café, chef Justin Deering (15 Romolo, Café des Amis, Conduit), and Charlie Brown, previously at Prospect, are in charge of operations.

The menu is casual but packs layers of flavor, like in a dish of cauliflower three different ways, and Half Moon Bay bass with fregola, clams, and fumet; there are some hearty picks like a short rib burger, and roast chicken with liver toast as well. There are 32 seats plus eight at the bar, where you can hang out and check out the list of $6 snacks and a plate of housemade charcuterie. Sidewalk seating is coming too, just in time for the Bay Area’s summery fall days. There’s a list of classic cocktails, a wine list with food-friendly picks, and four beers on tap. Whether you’re coming by for dinner or a show, they’ve got you covered.

There seems to be a storm brewing around the new Bandidos (2200 Market, SF; www.bandidosinsf.com) that just opened in the Castro in the former Leticia’s space, with commentors on social media, local food blogs, and Yelp decrying the offensive name. A note on its Facebook page says: “Hi all, we are working with the people who have contacted us personally regarding this issue. Until then we are turning off all posting ability on FB. Thanks.” Bit of a rough start there. We’ll have to see what’s communicated next from the team. Although it’s not as rough as the opening of the brand-new Capone’s Speakeasy (1400 Park, Alameda; www.caponesspeakeasy.net) in Alameda, whose owner was arrested the night of the grand opening party for alleged public drunkenness, resisting arrest, and whoa there, guess who tried to bite an officer on the leg? At least he’s on-brand with his restaurant’s mascot.

A drama-free opening is Bistro L’Aviateur (2850 21st St., SF; 415-757-0272), starting service in the Mission tonight (Wed/10). The owners, husband-and-wife team Maha and Vincent Laforge (with Maha’s sons helping out in the kitchen!) will be serving French cuisine with Tunisian and Mediterranean influences. The menu will be small, but will change daily. It’s an intimate neighborhood spot, with room for 25, plus a bar and communal table. Not only is it open for lunch and dinner — you can come by for Tunisian-style tea and pastries available in the afternoon, too (like marzipan with rose water and North African spices). Hours will be Mon, 11:30am–7pm; Wed–Fri, 11:30am–9:30pm; Sat, 5:30–9:30pm; Sun, 11am–3pm; and closed Tue. Hours may change in the coming weeks as the owners figure out what works for the neighborhood.

Also in the Frenchie camp and opening today, across town in the Marina, is the bistro half of the newly expanded Le Marais Bistro and Bakery (2066 Chestnut, SF; www.lemaraisbakery.com). You’ll be able to add dinnertime to your breakfast and lunch visiting times — chef Nicolette Manescalchi is serving Mediterranean dishes like socca with herb jam and rosehip- and cumin-spiced chicken roasted on an oak grill. Delicious. Executive pastry chef Emily Riddell will have you covered with some fab plated desserts, so save some room. And there are some Euro wines and beers, too. Dinner is served Sun–Thu, 5:30–10pm and Fri–Sat, 5:30–11pm. *

Marcia Gagliardi is the founder of the weekly tablehopper e-column; subscribe for more at www.tablehopper.com. Get her app: Tablehopper’s Top Late-Night Eats. On Twitter: @tablehopper.

Brunch o’clock

Michael Redmond

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September 2, 2014

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culture@sfbg.com

BRUNCH ME

SoMa’s Darwin Café (212 Ritch, SF. www.darwincafesf.com) has added weekend brunch to its already tasty lineup. How about a Turkish breakfast with egg, tomato, figs, kasseri cheese, olives, and toast? Or a golden malted waffle with candied bacon? Or a croque madame? Oui! Hours are Saturday and Sunday 10am–2pm. (“Pastry hour” starts at 9am for you early bird types).

Also in SoMa, have you had a chance to check out chef-owner Lauren Kiino’s Red Dog (303 Second St, SF. www.reddogrestaurant.com) yet? The place has a lot going for it. There’s an outdoor patio, a full bar too, and some really appealing brunch dishes. (You can munch on some housemade breakfast pastries while you make up your mind). If you have a total manimal appetite, then the Red Dog brunch platter ($18) is for you: You get two fried eggs, grilled shortribs, housemade breakfast sausage, bacon, butter beans, and an English muffin. Don’t want to eat like a lumberjack? Then you can enjoy slow-scrambled eggs with crescenza cheese, avocado toast, and arugula. Or maybe you’re in the mood for griddled French toast, that’s just fine. The olive oil fried egg sandwich is all kinds of awesome as well, with two eggs, bacon, provolone, sweet onion butter, and breakfast potatoes. Bonus: You can order oysters on the half shell, a perfect pairing for your Bloody Mary. Served Saturday and Sunday 10am–3pm.

Feelin’ fancy? Time to head to the top of Nob Hill to the newly renovated Big 4 (1075 California, SF. www.big4restaurant.com)! You can go on the lighter side with smoked trout with cucumbers, watercress, pistachio, and crème fraîche, or get down to business with the Eggs Blackstone (English muffin, grilled early girl tomatoes, Hobb’s bacon, hollandaise, crispy Yukon potatoes). There are plenty of brunch cocktails to get you back in the game too. Sunday brunch is served 10:30am–2:30pm.

Psst, I have a little secret garden for you. The fabulous Fable (558 Castro, SF. www.fablesf.com) in the Castro has a flower-filled back garden patio, exactly where you want to be for fluffy buttermilk pancakes (with banana, macadamia nut, coconut butter, and maple syrup), or creative picks like duck confit salad with a sunny side-up cage-free egg (with tarragon, Parmesan, watermelon radish, toasted brioche, baby tatsoi, and apricot vinaigrette). And if you see soft-shell crab on the menu, get it. Just get it. Served Sat–Sun 11am–2:30pm.

I have been a fan of the breakfast burrito at Green Chile Kitchen (1801 McAllister, SF. www.greenchilekitchen.com) for a good long time, but now it’s featuring some groovy new options on the weekend, like a New Mexican frittata layered with blue corn tortillas, eggs, zucchini, corn, green chile, cheese, and crema, served enchilada-style (mmmm), and migas (eggs, crispy tortilla strips, green chile, tomatillo avocado salsa, cotija, and black beans). Watermelon and mango mimosas are on the menu too.

Hayes Valley residents have a couple fresh spots that are stumbling distance from their bed, starting with Talbot Café (244 Gough, SF. www.talbotcafe.com), which just got a renovation and a menu upgrade too. Get your brain cells back with some Sightglass coffee and Saturday brunch (8am–3:30pm) savory or sweet polenta, an herb waffle and lox sandwich, and a waffle sandwich with bacon, eggs, and avocado (whoa).

Also in Hayes Valley is the new-ish Papito West (425 A Hayes, SF. www.papitosf.com), which serves weekend brunch 10am–4pm. There are two kinds of chilaquiles, plus huevos rancheros, and three kinds of omelets, like one with housemade chorizo with jack cheese, pico de gallo, avocado, and sour cream, or another with poblano peppers with corn, wild mushrooms, caramelized onions, roasted poblano peppers, goat cheese, and sour cream. Buen provecho!

Marcia Gagliardi is the founder of the weekly tablehopper e-column; subscribe for more at www.tablehopper.com. Get her app: Tablehopper’s Top Late-Night Eats. On Twitter: @tablehopper.

Once you pop…

Michael Redmond

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August 26, 2014

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CHOW NOW

For anyone left in the city and celebrating a playa dust–free Labor Day weekend, you’ll want to consider checking out this pop-up brunch, Ante Meridian, Sun/31. Anthony Yang, who has worked at Per Se and Michael Mina, offers a four-course brunch for $40 (all-inclusive) and it’s BYOB (or should I say BYOC: Bring Your Own Champers) — or spend $65 for premium seating and Champagne mimosas. Yang’s menu will be celebrating the summer season: Potential dishes include a poached egg with toasted Panorama Bakery sourdough English muffin, creamed forest mushrooms, and crispy ham — and there’s a good chance his black truffle waffles will make an appearance. 11:30am–2pm. If you can’t make this one, Ante Meridian happens a few times every month at Naked Kitchen (945 Valencia, SF. www.nakedkitchensf.com) in the Mission, a space for chefs to host pop-up dinners and events.

Another event at Naked Kitchen is an evening event Saturday, Sept. 6, Dux Duck Dinner, a collaborative event from Eddie Lau and Luis Villavelazquez of Dux. It will be a six-course feast celebrating duck, a redux (ha-ha) of the very first Dux pop-up dinner. Expect creative dishes like duck fat brioche, and Dux tsukemen with house noodles and roasted duck vadouvan butter. You can preview the menu at www.fortress-sf.com. The dinner is $55 (gratuity included), and there’s the option to have pairings — including some fabulous Chenin Blanc and Chablis — for $20. Two seatings: 6pm and 9pm.

Fans of Italian wine and bruschetta (say it with me, “broo-skett-ah”) will want to head to limited pop-up Troëggi a Biondivino (1415 Green, SF. www.biondivino.com), at Ceri Smith’s fab Italian wine shop on Russian Hill. Guest co-host Emanuele Fromento of Ai Troëggi in Genova is making a bunch of classic Genovese bruschette, on Josey Baker bread, $4–12 — one sports Taleggio, zucchini, and prosciutto cotto, another Gorgonzola and mostarda di Cremona. You can also try a variety of natural wines for $10, from sparkling to whites and reds, plus some cheese and salumi plates, and tiramisù for dessert. It makes a great happy hour (or evening snack), since hours are Wed-Sun 5pm to close, through Sun/31.

On Wednesday evenings, swing by Linea Caffe (3417 18th St., SF.) in the Mission and you’ll discover a new pop-up called Nudnik Foods (www.nudnikfoods.com) from Dena Ehrlich. Her modern Israeli menu includes a variety of items, like a weekly brik (a meat hand pie—although she also has made one with tuna), grain salads, dips, ratatouille, pickles, and date shakes. The pop-up starts at 5pm and goes until it all runs out.

An intriguing and mysterious upcoming dinner series is launching Sept. 7: Charin (www.charinsf.com), a pop-up project from Charles-C Onyeama, a self-taught chef who has worked at SPQR, Benu, and Manresa. The 15-table restaurant (said to be in the Noe Valley-Bernal Heights area) will only operate approximately once every three weeks, serving a seven- to eight-course tasting menu of haute cuisine. There will also be wine pairings from Michael Ireland, formerly the wine director at The Restaurant at Meadowood, and a sommelier at Benu, Quince, and The French Laundry (he is currently consulting on the wine list at Verbena, which rocks). Sign up for the Charin newsletter on its website for details about how to make reservations online, cost, and more. Just FYI in case you were planning a big group dinner: Reservations will primarily be for parties of two; four-person tables will be available on a limited basis.

Marcia Gagliardi is the founder of the weekly tablehopper e-column; subscribe for more at www.tablehopper.com. Get her app: Tablehopper’s Top Late-Night Eats. On Twitter: @tablehopper.

Gimme a kiss

Michael Redmond

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August 19, 2014

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culture@sfbg.com

CHOW NOW

Mmmm, what’s that smell? No, it’s not ganja (well, actually, it probably is) but there’s also the delicious wafting of the other kind of baked goods coming from the newly opened location of TwoFish Baking Company (240 Ritch, SF. www.twofishbaking.com) in SoMa. For those familiar with the popular Sea Ranch bakery, you can expect its signature sticky buns, along with scones, cakes, banana bread, and more, plus some lunch plates like salads and a range of calzones, including a white calzone with olive oil, garlic, mozzarella, ricotta, and basil. Equator coffee, check. Swing by (for now) Mon–Fri 7:30am–3:30pm.

People love to complain how there’s nowhere to eat in the Castro, but now there’s a brand-new Spanish joint you can check out called Beso (4058A 18th St, SF. www.besosf.com), where you can eat as much cut-to-order jamón as you can afford. It’s from the same gents who own Bisou around the corner — they seem to like kisses. The tapas menu features some updates of classic dishes, like steak tartare, plus seasonal paellas and other plates; A cool feature is that many of the fresh ingredients come from the owners’ Napa Kitchen Garden in Napa Valley. The 54-seat restaurant has some counters where you can sit and enjoy a glass of cava, making it a good date spot (I mean, come on, the name kind of begs for it) but there are some group tables where you can dine with your amigos too. Open nightly for dinner.

BALLIN’ ON A BUDGET

Fans of the awesomely affordable, vegetarian thali plates and dosas at Udupi Palace (3242 Scott, SF. www.udupipalacesanfrancisco.com) should know there’s now a third location that just opened in the Marina.

Looking for some flavor-packed late-night eats? Over at Hog & Rocks (3431 19th St, SF. www.hogandrocks.com) in the Mission, there’s a new Korean pop-up on Thursday nights (through Aug. 28). Starting at 10pm until the bar closes, chef Robin Song is offering hangover-squashing dishes like bibimbap to kimchi tofu stew.

CLOSING CHAPTER

While I normally like to focus on what’s new in this column, an upcoming closure is too important to not note here. After 20-plus years of holding it down under the freeway overpass in the Mission, the beloved Woodward’s Garden (1700 Mission, SF. www.woodwardsgarden.com) will be closing in the next month or so — the exact date hasn’t been set yet. As we’ve been hearing far too much these days, the ladies lost their lease and it won’t be renewed. Co-owners Margie Conard and Dana Tommasino are currently looking for another location, so time will tell. (They’re open to any leads or suggestions!).

Ask anyone who has lived in the city for some time, and they’ve had a romantic, memorable, or heartfelt meal here — it’s what happens when you’ve been open and serving soulful cooking since 1992. So make a reservation to come in, say thanks for the memories, and bid farewell to the ladies in this location while you can. They plan to throw some pop-ups and artistic salon events in the future, I’ll be sure to keep you posted.

Marcia Gagliardi is the founder of the weekly tablehopper e-column; subscribe for more at www.tablehopper.com. Get her app: Tablehopper’s Top Late-Night Eats. On Twitter: @tablehopper.

‘Cued up

Michael Redmond

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August 12, 2014

0

culture@sfbg.com

TABLEHOPPER After lamenting for too long that we didn’t have enough quality barbecue options around the bay, now we have plenty to check out. Here’s your cheat sheet on three recently opened barbecue spots, all of them using sustainable and well-sourced meats, because that’s how we roll.

4505 BURGERS AND BBQ (705 Divisadero, SF; www.4505meats.com/4505-burgers-bbq)

The former Brother-in-Law’s on Divisadero, which featured one of the area’s few remaining wood-fired barbecue pits, has been transformed under the tender care of Ryan and Cesalee Farr. Ryan Farr is well known around town for his chicharrones (and now there are kettle-cooked old fashioned chicharrones too), their butcher shop, and his “Best Damn Cheeseburger” at many farmers markets (including the one at the Ferry Building Marketplace). Now Farr has his own barbecue spot, with a couple of Southern Pride smokers inside, cranking out some incredibly delicious meats, including my hands-down favorite, the pork spare ribs. You can get a plate with one, two, or three meats ($12–$20), which comes with two sides (like excellent baked beans, potato salad, cole slaw, and the “frankaroni,” which is fried mac and cheese with 4505 hot dogs inside, dear lord), pickles, sliced onion, and a Parker House roll. Meats include a stellar brisket, smoky pulled chicken, hot or mild sausage, and juicy pork shoulder. There are also some salads (like a Cobb with big chunks of bacon), sandwiches, that cheeseburger, and beer and wine on tap.

Kick it on the big patio at picnic tables, or take it to go (you can even take a six-pack of beer or a bottle of wine to go). Coming soon: big changes on the patio, and a late-night window where you’ll be able to get cheeseburgers on the weekends! 4505 is open for lunch, so take advantage on a sunny day. Open Sun–Thu, 10:30am–10pm, Fri–Sat, 10:30am–11pm.

SMOKESTACK (2505 Third St, SF; www.magnoliapub.com/dogpatch.html)

Dave McLean of Magnolia has completed his massive dream project in the Dogpatch, which includes his gleaming new brewery and Smokestack, a barbecue joint and bar. Dennis Lee of Namu Gaji is overseeing the barbecue, a rotating selection of meats like Texas-style Piedmontese-certified beef (read: it’s special), sausages, seafood (interesting!), and some really good pork sticks. One night a side of spicy kale (instead of collards) hit the mark. Parker House rolls, check. The place is still working out some kinks (items tend to run out, and the high prices make expectations also run high), but I look forward to it developing in time. You have an extensive selection of Magnolia brews (plus guest brews, and cask beers) to enjoy, and plenty of whiskey-based cocktails.

It can be a little confusing when you get there: Yes, the place with no sign and all the newspaper on the windows is where you want to be. You’ll order at the meat counter and then find a place to sit at the communal tables, but if you want something to drink, you’ll order at the bar. Go with three people so you can manage it all.

Big news: Smokestack is now open for lunch, so you can come by from 11:30am–midnight to get your meats on, and the bar is open until 2am Thu–Sat.

PERDITION SMOKEHOUSE (2050 University, Berk; www.perditionbbq.com)

Anyone who even remotely loves beer needs to head to this Berkeley spot (Chuck Stilphen of the Trappist and Mikkeller Bar is behind it, with 43 domestic beers on tap), and chef Michael O’Brien is doing some quality dry-rubbed meats (standouts include the notable hot links, St. Louis pork ribs, and Mary’s chicken). Choose one or two meats ($13–$18) and two sides, like their cheesy mac and cheese and fantastic cowboy beans. It’s plenty spacious inside, but the outdoor courtyard means you can enjoy the usually-balmy 510 weather. Hours have expanded and are now Mon–Thu, 5pm–midnight; Fri, 5pm–1am; Sat, noon–1am; Sun, noon–midnight. *

Marcia Gagliardi is the founder of the weekly tablehopper e-column; subscribe for more at www.tablehopper.com. Get her app: Tablehopper’s Top Late-Night Eats. On Twitter: @tablehopper.

A party in your mouth

Michael Redmond

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August 5, 2014

2

culture@sfbg.com

SHUCK IT ALL

Coming up in August is not one but two big oyster events, and both are on the same weekend. Double play! First is the third annual Oyster Bash at B Restaurant & Bar (720 Howard, SF. www.bsanfrancisco.com) in Yerba Buena Gardens on Saturday, Aug. 23, 1pm–4pm. It’s an all-you-can-eat event, and considering 12,000 oysters will be served, you have your work cut out for you: There will be a raw bar, grilled and steamed oysters, fried oyster po’boy sliders, and oyster shooters. There’s also an oyster shucking contest at 2:30pm (the first 20 people to sign up upon arrival are enrolled) and the winner will score “all you can eat” oysters at B Restaurant for an entire year. Tickets are $45 presale at bbaroysterbash2014.eventbrite.com and they will sell out! $65 at the door.

Then on Sunday, Aug. 24, you can head to Waterbar (399 Embarcadero, SF. www.waterbarsf.com) for the sixth annual OysterFest on its bayside patio. Known for having the largest selection of oysters in SF, Waterbar is keeping the quality top-notch and will only feature sustainable oysters at the event. There will also be plenty of bites from Waterbar and sister restaurant EPIC Roasthouse, plus Farmer Brown, Farallon, Fish, and Blue Island Oyster Farm; your ticket also includes some Napa Valley wines and craft beers too. Oysterfest runs 12pm–3pm. Tickets are $70 and available on Waterbar’s homepage.

BLOCK PARTY

It looks like it may be the last year for La Cocina’s mega Street Food Festival (Folsom from 20th St to 26th St, SF. www.sfstreetfoodfest.com) — well, unless they can find a new location. In the meantime, plan to show up hungry on Saturday Aug. 16, when there will be a staggering selection of food vendors serving food from around the globe, plus cocktails, and craft beer, all from 11am–7pm. Get your posse together, and check out the website for some ticketing and passport options. (Oh, and the night before is the Friday Night Fried Chicken Family Meal at SoMa Streat Food Park, a must for fried chicken lovers.)

On Saturday, Aug. 23, comes Noise Pop’s 20th Street Block Party (20th St between Bryant and Harrison, and Florida and Alabama between 19th and 20th streets, SF. www.20thstreetblockparty.com/2014), noon–6pm. And it’s free! There will be two stages, featuring national acts and emerging local musicians, including Rogue Wave, Cayucas, Myron & E, 1955, and 8th Grader. Also in the mix will be drinks and bites from neighborhood establishments flour + water, Trick Dog, Central Kitchen, Sightglass Coffee, Rhea’s Deli & Cafe, El Metate, and more. You can dance, eat, hang out, and check out some things like the Ne Timeas workshop tent (with culinary workshops throughout the day), a Southern Exposure interactive installation, and more. There’s also a VIP experience for $95 (line-jumping privileges at the food vendors and private restrooms).

ZIG FOR SISIG

And for those of you who aren’t heading to the playa for Burning Man, check out the Savor Filipino (www.savorfilipino.com) event at Justin Herman Plaza on Saturday, Aug. 30. It’s a free event, and there will be a bunch of different pavilions with options ranging from lechon baboy (roasted pig) and lumpia to chicken adobo and kare-kare. Oh yeah, and balut, in case you have wanted to cross that one off your “yeah, I tried it” list. There will also be some vegan and vegetarian options in the Garden Pavilion, so everyone wins. Bonus: All food served will feature humanely raised proteins, sustainable seafood, and organic, local produce. In between sessions of over-eating, you can check out some music and chef and author demos, and hang out in the beer garden. 10am–6pm.

Marcia Gagliardi is the founder of the weekly tablehopper e-column; subscribe for more at www.tablehopper.com. Get her app: Tablehopper’s Top Late-Night Eats. On Twitter: @tablehopper.

Finger lickin’ good

Michael Redmond

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July 29, 2014

0

culture@sfbg.com

CHOW NOW

The next time you’re in North Beach and you — or your guests from out of town — are craving some classic San Francisco seafood, head on over to the new location of Ferry Plaza Seafood (653 Union, SF. www.ferryplazaseafood.com), right off Washington Square. While the original location at the Ferry Building Marketplace is no longer with us, this iteration has an actual kitchen, so you’ll find an expanded menu with all kinds of hot dishes, not just oysters on the half shell. Dinner service is kicking off first, with plenty of tables in this light-filled spot, and there’s a long counter where you can sit and enjoy a variety of quality wines and beers too. In a few weeks, you’ll be able to return for happy hour specials and lunch. For now, hours are Mon–Thu 5:30pm–10pm and Fri–Sat 5:30pm–11pm.

This coming weekend (Fri/1 through Sun/3) is Eat Drink SF (www.eatdrink-sf.com), with a variety of tasting events, demos, workshops, dinners, and more. A bunch of the city’s better chefs will be there, along with fab bartenders, too. The Grand Tasting Pavilion at Fort Mason will feature busy tastings throughout the weekend, and yours truly is moderating a demo with Fabio Viviani, Sat/2 at 10:30am. Fabio will be preparing orecchiette pasta with pesto, why don’t you join us for some sassy Italian banter? Tickets start at $30 for single events, but lots of packages for events and pavilion tastings are available. And here’s a special offer for all tablehopper friends (that would be you, darling): receive 15 percent off all Lexus Grand Tasting events with the code TABLEHOPPER. Sweet!

BALLIN’ ON A BUDGET

Anyone who loves fried chicken is going to want to check out this new pop-up on Tuesday evenings at The Residence (718 14th St., SF.) called Uncle Brother’s Chicken (www.facebook.com/unclebrotherchicken). Wes Rowe, of WesBurger fame, and his brother Walker Rowe are frying up different regional styles of fried chicken — from around the world! — each week. Last week’s Southern fried chicken with pimento mac and cheese and fried okra was $12. There are some other items too, like chicken on a biscuit with pepper jelly and honey butter ($6). Bwok bwok gobble gobble. 6pm–10pm.

The charming Biondivino (1415 Green, SF. www.biondivino.com) wine shop in Russian Hill is hosting a fun wine bar and bruschetta pop-up for the next month, Troëggi a Biondivino, and trust, you’ll want to check it out. Owner Ceri Smith is hosting Emanuele Fromento of Ai Troëggi of Genova, a well-known natural wine bar that is also famous for its menu of bruschette. For the next month, Biondivino is going to be offering 15 classic kinds of Genovese bruschette, all on Josey Baker bread, with toppings like Taleggio, zucchini, and prosciutto cotto, or the “spussona,” with Gorgonzola, onion, and spicy arugula.

Prices range from $4 to $12, which will pair well with a variety of natural wines that will be poured in tandem (two sparkling choices, three to five whites, three to five reds, plus a rosé), all for just $10 a glass. Best of all, come by 5pm–7pm to experience Italian aperitivo, which means you get a complimentary mini bruschetta with pesto, tomato, garlic, and olive oil with your first glass. If you want to hang out some more, you can also order cheese and salumi plates, and tiramisù for dessert. Hours are Wed–Sun 5pm until closing (probably 11pm or so), through Aug. 31. Cin cin!

Marcia Gagliardi is the founder of the weekly tablehopper e-column; subscribe for more at www.tablehopper.com. Get her app: Tablehopper’s Top Late-Night Eats. On Twitter: @tablehopper.

Hot date

Michael Redmond

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July 22, 2014

0

culture@sfbg.com

LIVIN’ LARGE

Sometimes you read about an event so cool and artsy and smart that you have to say, “Hell to the yes, more of this please.”

It turns out Quince is closing for two months of renovations (July 25 to Sept. 19). In the meantime, the Quince folks will host a very chic series of pop-up dinners called curATE at Hedge Gallery (501 Pacific Ave., SF, www.hedgegallery.com), just across the street. You know it’s going to be cute, because Stanlee Gatti is producing the events. Every week (Wednesday through Saturday, July 30 through Aug. 30), there will be a different gallery installation by contemporary curators, and chef Michael Tusk will be making a five-course menu to accompany the theme. Guest programmers include Jeffrey Fraenkel, Anthony Meier, Jessica Silverman, John Berggruen, and Iwona Tenzing. The one I’m eyeballing: Jessica Silverman’s exhibition, titled “White Is the Warmest Color,” will be paired with an all-white menu. How can you say no?

Even if you can’t pony up for the dinner, you might opt for the gallery reception of wine and canapés 6:30pm–7:30pm ($50 per person, inclusive of tax and service charge). The gallery reception and five-course tasting menu is $199 per person, inclusive of tax and service charge. Wine pairings will be offered ($110, including tax and tip), along with select items from the bar and access to the full Quince wine cellar. Going solo? There will be a communal table. Or you can purchase an individual table (with seating for up to 10 guests). Tickets and more info at www.sfcurate.com.

DATE NIGHT

Looking for a good spot for a date night? Head on up to Russian Hill to visit two places that are practically built for a date (and the neighborhood is a fun one to walk through after dinner).

If you’re a fan of handmade pasta, you’ll want to reserve a table at Seven Hills (1550 Hyde St., SF. www.sevenhillssf.com), which has a new-ish chef who came on at the end of last year, Anthony Florian, whose résumé includes Quince, Cotogna, and most recently, Pizzalina. Florian brings an update to the popular raviolo with an egg inside, plus a hearty bowl of pappardelle with braised lamb sugo. And then there’s the fusilli neri (black from squid ink) with tender cuttlefish, tomato, chile, and bread crumbs. The owner is very passionate about wine and happy to make some pairings. Cin cin.

Another great spot to couple up along Hyde Street: Stones Throw (1896 Hyde St., SF. www.stonesthrowsf.com), which opened last November, and is really hitting its stride. Chef Jason Halverson offers a menu of Cal-American dishes with a strong seasonal bent, and lots of tableside flourishes.

Start with the pork belly and peaches (and crispy pig ears!), and the squid ink conchiglie pasta is a spicy hit. The dish I can’t stop thinking about is the grilled octopus “okonomiyaki,” a Japanese-inspired pancake, with bacon dashi, spicy turnips, and marinated mushrooms. Don’t miss it. Stones Throw may only have a beer and wine license, but there are some clever low-alcohol cocktails and some quality beers that will get your attention. Ditto the wine list: You’ll find unique, ever-rotating selections. The vibe here is a bit more urban and fun, so it would be great for date number one or two. (Even if you’re on your own, come in for a warm bite at the bar and a glass or two of something good).

Marcia Gagliardi is the founder of the weekly tablehopper e-column; subscribe for more at www.tablehopper.com. Get her app: Tablehopper’s Top Late-Night Eats. On Twitter: @tablehopper.

Oui, oui

Michael Redmond

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July 15, 2014

1

culture@sfbg.com

CHOW NOW

One of the more exciting places to hit the scene in a summer full of tons of new openings is Monsieur Benjamin (451 Gough, SF. www.monsieurbenjamin.com), a project from Corey Lee (Benu), with chef Jason Berthold (previously RN74, and French Laundry and Per Se, where he worked with Lee) and Thomas Palauqui.

Lee has wanted to open a late-night bistro in San Francisco for some time, something he thought was missing from our local scene. He’s right. So now we have a hot spot open until 1am nightly in Hayes Valley, serving a modernized and technique-driven take on classic French dishes like escargots and sweetbreads Grenobloise, plus steak frites, roast chicken, and blanquette de veau. The list of entrées is significant, with 13 in all.

You can come by for a cocktail and oysters at the intimate marble bar before the opera, or find a spot at a communal table for small plates and appetizers to pair with wines from smaller family-owned producers from France after the symphony (or when you get out of work). You’ll definitely be entertained with peeks into the gleaming open kitchen — the joint is staffed up. The vibe is lively, and the room is chic yet understated, kind of like Isabelle Huppert. Coming soon: weekend brunch and a prix-fixe theater menu. Hours are nightly 5pm–1am for now.

BALLIN’ ON A BUDGET

The original location of Loló in the Mission has been tweaked by the owners and reopened as Loló Cevichería (3230 22nd St, SF. www.lolosf.com/lolo-cevicheria), serving a casual and affordable menu of ceviches — five in all — and some Loló classics, like the taco tropical and tuna tacon. It’s a fun place to hang out for an impromptu meal, and there will be plenty of beverages to get you feeling good, from a couple different sangrias to agave wine margarita slushies (which include one made with tamarind).

If you’re over waiting for a table at the recently opened Loló on Valencia — that place is caliente! — or if you’re a larger party than that funky little spot can handle, this one’s for you. Designer and business partner Lorena Zertuche has updated the space, featuring lots of tropical birds (caw caw!) and of course a riot of bright colors. The grand opening is Wed/16; hours are Mon–Thu 6pm–10pm, Fri–Sat 6pm–12am, closed Sun.

While fans of the hefty hoagies from 1058 Hoagie in SoMa will be sorry to hear that joint is closed, here’s your silver lining: Owner Adam Mesnick has turned the space into Rye Project (180 Seventh St, SF www.ryeproject.com), his take on a Jewish-style deli. He’s calling it “Newish Deli.” This is the place for overstuffed corned beef and pastrami sandwiches on rye bread from a special source in Detroit ($14). Other choices: roast beef, tuna salad, kosher or hard-beef salami, and turkey. You want double meat/double bread? Go for it for $6 extra.

Also coming in from back East: par-baked bagels from New York that are finished here (top those bad boys with lox, smoked trout, or Mesnick’s smoked whitefish salad). A whole other category to explore is his creative salads, including the Rye House ($13), with romaine, corned beef, Muenster cheese, hard-boiled egg, cucumber, cherry tomato, and chickpeas. Bonus: All salads come with a bagel, because hey, more is more. Additional options are soup of the day (expect some matzoh ball soup in rotation), chopped liver, mac and potato salad, and other classic deli faves. Eat, eat! Open Mon–Fri 11am–4pm.

Marcia Gagliardi is the founder of the weekly tablehopper e-column; subscribe for more at www.tablehopper.com. Get her app: Tablehopper’s Top Late-Night Eats. On Twitter: @tablehopper.

Japanese dreams

Michael Redmond

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July 8, 2014

1

CHOW NOW

There are not one but two big local openings that just happened in the Michael Mina empire, and anyone who has a passion for sushi or ramen will want to take note, because chef Ken Tominaga — of the destination-worthy Hana in Rohnert Park — is partnering with Mina on both projects. Pabu (101 California, SF. www.michaelmina.net) and The Ramen Bar (101 California, SF.) are two very different restaurants that happen to have the same address, the spacious 101 California. And depending on your budget, you can afford to at least eat at one of them.

Let’s start with The Ramen Bar. Come by Mon–Fri 8am–9pm (with food service starting 11am). Based on the lines of people during the opening week, you may discover a wait at lunchtime. There are four kinds of ramen on the opening menu, and you won’t find a thick and rich tonkotsu-style broth here: Tominaga is doing a lighter broth, taking inspiration from Tokyo-style ramen, so you won’t fall into a food coma during your 2pm meeting.

The ingredients and techniques here are top notch: no cold eggs with a blue ring on the yolk, ya dig? There’s a tempting Tokyo roast chicken ($12) with soy-cured egg, bamboo, spinach, and yuzu kosho. Or you can go rich with braised pork belly ($12) with wakame, soy-cured egg, and wilted spinach. Other choices include shrimp and crab dumpling ($16) in a ginger clam broth, with sweet corn and mizuna; and mushroom and tofu ($11) with miso, mizuna, hon-shimeji mushrooms, sweet corn, and nori. Gluten-free noodles are available as well. Additional lunchtime-friendly choices on the menu include salads and donburi.

The Ramen Bar has made the process simple if you want to order ahead: check the Facebook page (www.facebook.com/RamenBarSF) or download the app for iPhone and Android, just search “Ramen Bar SF.” There are also seats at a counter, tables, or on the outdoor terrace if you don’t want to eat at your desk. (You really should get some air). And you can come by in the morning for espresso and coffee drinks from LAMILL, or explore Hong Kong milk tea, boba tea, and more.

Now, you ready to acquaint yourself with the Happy Spoon? It’s one of chef Tominaga’s trademark dishes, and it’s how you’ll want to start your dinner at the upscale Pabu (dinner is served nightly; lunch won’t begin until July 28). It’s a soup spoon, yes, but artfully composed with uni, ikura, tobiko, ponzu, and crème fraîche, and should make you happier than a spoonful of Prozac. Nigiri obsessives will want to sidle over to the 22-seat sushi counter, and have Yoji-san prepare Ken’s Nigiri Tasting Menu: eight courses of exquisite Edo-style nigiri, served two pieces at a time. It’s the good stuff, let me tell you. There are also tables and booths where you can sit with your date or a group and make your way through Tominaga’s varied menu, which includes both izakaya dishes and sushi (check out the ankimo dish), ranging from cold to hot small plates, eight kinds of robatayaki, elegant shabu-shabu, and some larger dishes, including seafood and A4 and A5 Japanese wagyu. (I hope you brought your company card). They’re all designed to share.

A big bar and lounge under an open ceiling with softly glowing lanterns and tall windows can’t help but charm. You can slide into a burnt orange leather and velvet booth during happy hour (Mon–Fri 3pm–6pm), which rocks a menu of BBQ pork buns, oysters, Tokyo fried chicken, and robata. The cocktails by Mina Group head bartender Carlo Splendorini are creative — house-carbonated cocktails abound, so get fizzy — and if you want to learn about sake, you need to meet sake master Stuart Morris. This total sake sensei puts together some exciting pairings, and is thrilled to share his knowledge with you. Kanpai!

Marcia Gagliardi is the founder of the weekly tablehopper e-column; subscribe for more at www.tablehopper.com. Get her app: Tablehopper’s Top Late-Night Eats. On Twitter: @tablehopper.

Belly rub

Michael Redmond

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July 2, 2014

0

culture@sfbg.com

TABLEHOPPING Sorry (not sorry) but both of these places I’m about to mention have “big” and “belly” and “chubby” in their names, which should be your clue that I’m not going to be telling you about a new salad bar. Whatever, many of you just finished a week of not eating (thanks PRIDE!) and are probably still hurting from the weekend. Let’s do this. First up, Big Chef Tom’s Belly Burgers (1550 Howard, SF. www.bctbellyburgers.com) has opened in SoMa, and if you haven’t had the chance to acquaint yourself with chef Tom Pizzica’s burgers made from 100 percent ground pork belly at events around town, well, you are overdue. This is his first brick-and-mortar spot, which means he gets to rock an expanded menu, with all kinds of creative combos. I would start with the All-American, with rosemary mayo, sliced apple, and sharp cheddar cheese. I also really dug the Banh Baby, Banh one afternoon at Outside Lands, with Vietnamese caramel, sliced jalapeño, hard-boiled egg, and cilantro. Don’t eat pork? No problem, you can sub the porky patty for one made with ground chicken thigh, or a vegetarian version. There are a few sides too (crispy onions, fries, or roasted kale, because hey, it’s California). Good news: beer will be coming in a couple weeks. Open daily 10:30am–9pm.

Next up: Chubby Noodle (2205 Lombard, SF. www.chubbynoodle.com) has opened a second location, but unlike its original location in Amante in North Beach, this 49-seater is a stand-alone in the former Gatip Thai in the Marina. Pete Mrabe (the evil genius behind Don Pisto’s) and biz partner Nick Floulis (Pushback Wines) just finished their grand opening celebration this past weekend, and now they’re open 5pm–12:30am nightly, but potentially closing on Mondays (just double check their hours on their website before you head over). The 12-item menu includes some dim sum (the chicken buns are a fave), chicken noodle soup (a riff on a fried chicken ramen), hot fried snapper, and are you ready for breakfast for dinner? I sure am. They have a hickory-smoked bacon jook with a fried egg, yes! It’s a casual and lively spot, with flavor-packed food that’s well prepared, and budget-friendly too. Look for some wine-based cocktails (they’re better than you’d expect), plus beer and wine on tap, and they’re also going to be one of the first places in the US to have sake on tap.

BRUNCHTASTIC

Brunch is something we do almost too well in this town, and here are three more options for you to add into rotation (especially since all three places serve full liquor). The colorful and cheerful Loló (974 Valencia, SF. www.lolosf.com) in the Mission is now serving brunch Friday (love it!) through Sunday, 11am–4pm. The menu includes chilaquiles with carnitas, a Mexican Benedict, a chorizo scramble, and more. The cocktails are also (almost) too delicious (ditto the cute staff), so watch yourself.

Palm House (2032 Union, SF. www.palmhousesf.com) in Cow Hollow is serving weekend brunch 10:30am–2:30pm. Get into an island Caribbean vibe with tropical breakfasts from around the world, including huevos rancheros; fried eggs revoltillo with plantains, rice, beans, and Puerto Rican spices; and a Cubano. Note: They have boozy slushy drinks.

Over in North Beach, The Square (1707 Powell. SF. www.thesquaresf.com) is serving weekend brunch 10:30am–2pm, with some picks like eggs Benedict with braised greens, Surryano ham, and crispy potato; a wild mushroom omelet; and pancakes with bacon and blueberries. How handy, there’s also a Corpse Reviver No. 2 with gin, lemon, Lillet, and absinthe. You’ll be feeling better in no time — get out of that crypt!

Marcia Gagliardi is the founder of the weekly tablehopper e-column; subscribe for more at www.tablehopper.com. Get her app: Tablehopper’s Top Late-Night Eats. On Twitter: @tablehopper.

Get Baked

Michael Redmond

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June 24, 2014

0

culture@sfbg.com

CHOW NOW

Anyone who has fallen in love with the bagels from Marla Bakery Kitchen Communal, or the cookies and breads from one of Marla Bakery’s farmers market stands will be happy to know the duo behind all these goodies just opened a brick-and-mortar location in the Outer Richmond. But before you say, “Oh well, I live in Potrero Hill,” there’s a lot that will make you want to make the trek to Marla Bakery (3619 Balboa, SF. www.marlabakery.com), which is more than just a bakery. Owners Amy Brown and Joe Wolf have been hard at work getting the space together for some time: Wait until you see the custom wood-fired oven (the Marla 2000). And then there’s the comfortable dining room, with 26 seats, lots of wood, and hey now, check out that intoxicating aroma of fresh-baked goods. There’s also a patio out back, with a garden designed by Paxton Gate (look for the patio to get more dialed in coming weeks).

Marla will take good care of you during the morning, with coffee and bagels and quiche and pastries (don’t attempt to do it all at once), and some sit-down breakfast fare, like baked eggs with reduced thyme cream, roasted leeks, sugar snap peas, and Gruyère. Lunch — think farro grain salad, a special version of a club sandwich, and a marinated mushroom sandwich, all made on Marla’s own breads. Dinner starts as a Sunday supper on Sun/29. By Tue/1, regular service will be in full effect, with breakfast, lunch, dinner, and weekend brunch. Bonus: Some well-chosen wines, beers, and vermouths are available, all to help encourage day drinking and hanging out. Anytime is a good time for Mexican coffee pot de crème, right?

Whether you’re looking for a place to pick up a gorgeous steak to cook at home in your treasured cast-iron skillet, or you’d just like someone to bring a tartare to your table while you sit and look pretty, the new Belcampo Meat Company (1998 Polk, SF. www.belcampomeatco.com) has you covered. Russian Hill neighbors are especially stoked. Belcampo is a unique company: It raises its animals humanely and organically on a farm in Mount Shasta, and it has its own state-of-the-art slaughterhouse facility. The butcher shop (open daily 9am–8pm) looks classic, but the meats and cuts are varied, including pork, beef, poultry, and rabbits. The 34-seat restaurant serves dinner nightly 5:30pm–10pm, and chef Chris Gerwig (formerly of A16 and New York’s Pulino’s) has more than just meaty options for you. Don’t just expect a menu of duck and chicken giblet skewers and fried guinea hen, although you can get those items too. It’s a handsome space, with lots of wood and cobalt blue leather banquettes (made from their own steer hides).

DRINK UP

Tea aficionados will want to beeline to the new Samovar location (411 Valencia, SF. www.samovartea.com). This branch of the small chain is unique — the soothing and monochromatic interior is modern and eye-catching, designed to highlight the tea-brewing process. Along the counter, you’ll see a row of tea-brewing “crucible” machines (no teabags here!), which make the brewing totally visible and engaging. There are a few different teas you can choose from (including black, green, and herbal), and there are also big copper urns where you can get a few ladles of masala chai, creamy and spiced beautifully (a cup is $3–$5). Seasonal cold-brewed iced teas and matcha shots — and shakes! — will be available, as well as freshly baked scones, savory and sweet. It’s laid out so people can swing by and easily get their tea to go, but there’s a bench and ledge where you can linger if you want. (which means you get to enjoy drinking out of a custom ceramic tea cup designed in conjunction with Atelier Dion). Hours are 7am–7pm.

Marcia Gagliardi is the founder of the weekly tablehopper e-column; subscribe for more at www.tablehopper.com. Get her app: Tablehopper’s Top Late-Night Eats. On Twitter: @tablehopper.

GOL!

Michael Redmond

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June 17, 2014

39

culture@sfbg.com

WORLD CUP VIEWING

Now through July 13, a whole bunch of soccer fans are going to be coming into work late (sorry, there’s a 9am game!) or taking long lunches to get those noon games in. Fortunately there are a bunch of places to watch the Cup, in case your boss is getting suspicious of you hanging out in the conference room with your iPad. (For more suggestions, see the Pixel Vision blog at SFBG.com.)

A brand new sports bar has opened in the former Tortilla Heights space called San Francisco Athletic Club (1750 Divisadero, SF. 415-923-8989), and partners Miles Palliser and Ezra Berman of the Corner Store, along with Neil Holbrook of Kezar Pub, managed to open it just in time for Soccergeddon! There are 27 televisions, a 20-seat bar, pullout bleachers for big games, and you can even order a bathtub of beer if you’re sitting in one of the four reservable booths (which fit eight to 12). Pace yourself, sporto. Twelve to 16 beers come on tap, and cocktails too. The menu features an SFAC Burger with American cheese, a bacon-wrapped hot dog with caramelized onions and peppers, and Sriracha chili wings. Regular hours are Tue–Fri 11am–10pm, Sat–Sun 9am–10pm, and they’ll be open at 8:30am for the 9am games!

For a little bit of sun and a fun crowd, come to the SoMa Streat Food Park (428 11th St., SF. www.somastreatfoodpark.com), which is showing the matches on big screens for free! You can sit in the beer garden and enjoy Cup-appropriate specials — like Brazil’s Xingu Black Beer — and take your pick of vittles from a rotating roster of food trucks. Check the website for match schedule.

Recently opened Bartlett Hall (242 O’Farrell, SF. www.bartletthallsf.com) will come in handy for downtown workers: it’s open for morning games at 9am, with a bunch of screens and early treats.

Another new place to open is Minas Brazilian (41 Franklin, SF. www.minasbrazilianrestaurant.com) in the former Canto do Brasil space in Hayes Valley. So if you want to watch the games — there are LED screens — and party with some Brazilians (who wouldn’t?), here’s one place to find ’em. There will be plenty of cachaça, $6 caipirinhas during happy hour (5pm–7pm), and everyone’s favorite, pão de queijo (cheese bread). Open for early games; check the Facebook page for updates.

As for where to go to yell “IT-AL-IA!” with the Italians, you’ll want to head to Il Casaro (348 Columbus, SF. www.ilcasarosf.com) in North Beach, which has three TV screens, and lots of seats packed into the small space. The hotspot makes delicious Neapolitan pizzas, but Fri/20 it will be opening early for the 9am game and serving cornetti, bomboloni. You can get a cappuccino too. Forza Azzurri!

Looking for a spot to watch Mexico play? All four Tacolicious (www.tacolicious.com) locations will be showing all matches with Mexico (or USA) for the course of the Cup. When the US plays Germany on Thursday, June 26, Tacolicious will be open at 8:30am and serving brunch! Mmmm, huevos rancheros.

Meanwhile, over in SoMa, Don Ramon’s (225 11th St., SF. www.donramonsrestaurante.com) will be keeping you happy with plenty of food and drink specials, like $5 Micheladas all day. There are two large TVs, and they’re opening 11:30am Tue–Fri and 5pm Sat–Sun.

Also in SoMa is the sporty HQ Public House (24 Willie Mays Plaza, SF. www.publichousesf.com), which boasts multiple screens — just be sure you’re not there when a Giants home game is happening, it could be a little crazy.

The Lower Haight is full of soccer-loving bars, like Mad Dog in the Fog (530 Haight, SF. www.themaddoginthefog.com), Danny Coyle’s (668 Haight, SF. www.dannycoyles.com), or you can head to the Upper Haight to Kezar Pub (770 Stanyan, SF. www.thekezarpub.com). And you’ll definitely find some Brits at the new Gashead Tavern (2351 Mission, SF. www.facebook.com/gasheadtavern) in the Mission. Gashead sports three TVs and one 100-inch projector, and is opening early to serve breakfast sandwiches all week starting at noon, and weekend brunch starting at 11am. Two words: full bar. Score!

Marcia Gagliardi is the founder of the weekly tablehopper e-column; subscribe for more at www.tablehopper.com. Get her app: Tablehopper’s Top Late-Night Eats. On Twitter: @tablehopper.

Let’s do lunch

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June 10, 2014

1

culture@sfbg.com

HELLO, GORGEOUS

A very pretty restaurant just joined our downtown dining scene, Aveline (490 Geary, SF. www.avelinesf.com). Theatergoers, you have a new spot! The chef is Casey Thompson, whom many of you will recognize from the third season of Top Chef. She has crafted a New California menu, with plenty of creativity and beautiful plating. Start with truly decadent bites like yolk beignets with lardo or crab macarons. And of course the Texas native needed to have some fried chicken on the menu: Her updated version comes with kimchi powder and pickled vegetables.

There are two seating areas in the attractive dining room, with tufted upholstered seats and banquettes, or you can reserve one of the four seats at the chef’s counter, where she’ll just cook for you (off menu). This place would be perfect for a date, or a spot to take out-of-town visitors, or even have a business dinner. The room is stylish, but not too feminine, or too masculine either. Bonus: Just across the Warwick hotel lobby is The European, a sophisticated cocktail bar with a swanky lounge area in the back. Not only can you enjoy some lighter aperitif-style cocktails (try its namesake, The European), but Thompson has created a fun menu of bar bites, which helpfully includes a burger. And I can’t wait to try the “chips ‘n dip” of chicken skin “chips” with charred onion, smoked eggplant, and trout roe. Whoa. Both are open nightly.

BUSY BIZ LUNCH

With all these openings around town, you have a bunch of new lunchtime places to add to your list. First up, Thai hotspot Kin Khao (55 Cyril Magnin, SF. www.kinkhao.com) has reinstated its lunch service. Stop by the downtown spot for its pretty hot wings (sriracha lovers will dig ’em) and som tum papaya salad. Or fill up on the pork bowl with flat rice noodles, crispy belly, braised shoulder, and a runny-yolk egg in pork broth (perfect for our June gloom days). Hours are Mon–Fri 11:30am–2pm.

One of the exceptionally stylish places to open downtown is Gaspar Brasserie (185 Sutter, SF. www.gasparbrasserie.com), with two levels, two bars, and a brand-new lunchtime service — meaning you get to soak in all the swish ambience while dining on a tuna tartine or steak frites. Start your lunch with some oysters, I sure would. There are excellent lighter-style cocktails as well, so go for it, without the three-martini hangover. Lunch is served Mon–Fri 11:30am–3pm.

Have you checked out the updated Schroeder’s (240 Front, SF. www.schroederssf.com) yet? The hip space has plenty of seats for you: beer hall-style communal tables (popular at happy hour) and more traditional-style seating in the back. Lunch is served Mon–Fri 11:30am–2pm. Hello, duck pastrami salad (a mix of cabbage dressed in a very mustardy vinaigrette with rye croutons). You’ll also see the hearty chicken schnitzel sandwich on a lot of tables. Start with the potato pancakes (they’re good to share) and treat yourself to a light Kolsch for lunch — come on, it’s a beer hall!

The folks at Twenty Five Lusk (25 Lusk, SF. www.25lusk.com) have launched a weekday lunch service (Mon–Fri 11:30am–2pm), with a $15 special each day. You ready for the lineup? Okay, let’s do this. Mondays feature braised short ribs with truffled tater tots and a Syrah reduction (afternoon nap not included); Tuesdays bring a smoked duck tartine with bacon, fig mostarda, wild arugula, Fontina cheese, and Portuguese bread (sign me up); Wednesdays are grilled prawn soba noodles with mint, asparagus, and hoisin barbecue sauce (you gotta go light one day); Thursdays it’s Fried 38 North Chicken with salt-roasted new potatoes, sausage gravy, and cucumber salad (don’t tell your doctor); and on Fridays, you can get a Dungeness crab roll on buttermilk pain de mie, with drawn butter and wild arugula. (Hold me.)

Marcia Gagliardi is the founder of the weekly tablehopper e-column; subscribe for more at www.tablehopper.com. Get her app: Tablehopper’s Top Late-Night Eats. On Twitter: @tablehopper.

Hungry, thirsty

Michael Redmond

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June 3, 2014

0

culture@sfbg.com

NEWLY OPEN

Positive reports are already rolling in for chef-owner Lauren Kiino’s newest project, Red Dog (303 2nd St., SF. www.reddogrestaurant) — woof! Not only did she open a restaurant in a funky part of town that needed more dining options, but her fresh, rustic food also offers easy, middle-of-the-week appeal: when you don’t know what you want, she gives you options. Maybe it’s her famed egg salad for lunch, or smoked duck hash browns with poached eggs for brunch, or a Massa brown rice and market vegetable bowl for dinner. You’ll also find a house-ground classic beef burger and fries any time of day. It’s a casual, neighborhood spot, with seating for 120, plus a bar area (and another 25 will fit on the patio soon). Swing by for a bite and cocktail before a Giants game — happy hour runs daily from 3pm–6pm, with both food and drink specials. And psssst, they make a mean Scotch egg. Opening hours are lunch Mon–Fri 11am–3pm, dinner daily 5pm–10pm, brunch Sat–Sun 10am–3pm. Breakfast will be added in a couple of weeks: Mon–Fri 8am–10:30am.

New life has come to the corner of 16th Street and Guerrero in the Mission, with the opening of Chino in the former Andalu, from the partners behind Tacolicious. The appetizing menu is going to ply you with housemade dumplings (made by a dumpling Jedi), flavor-packed wings, light dishes like yuba noodles with cilantro-ginger “salsa verde” and pickled shiitake mushrooms or cold sesame noodles with summer squash, lumpia from the chef de cuisine’s family recipe, shrimp wonton noodle soup, and four kinds of stuffed bao. It all sounds tasty and fun, doesn’t it? That’s definitely the point—the design is also playful and colorful, and there’s a bar with some cocktails, like the Boba Colada, that will have you feeling a little silly in no time. There are 66 seats, sure to be filling up with folks chowing down on this surprisingly affordable menu. It’s kind of a breath of fresh air in these days of $32 entrées (and they’re using quality ingredients too). Open daily 11:30am–1am.

Downtown workers have a new, and muy grande, taqueria to hit up, Uno Dos Tacos (595 Market St., SF. www.unodostaco.com). The original location was a short-term trial on Polk Street, in case the name seems familiar. The menu is divided up into tacos, burritos, salads, or a plate with your choice of meats: carne asada, chicken tinga, carnitas, lengua, fish (try the fried fish taco!), or vegetarian. Tacos are $3.25 each, $4.50 for fish, and burritos are $6.50 for vegetarian or $7.25 for meat. Considering the high-quality meats and produce, and the corn tortillas are made in-house (you can even check out the groovy machine), that pricing is pretty fab. Best of all: there’s a huge outdoor patio. We’re talking room for 80 people. And with the full bar, this place has you covered. Take over a picnic table with your after-work posse and you’re set. Open for lunch and dinner, 10:30am–9pm.

BALLIN’ ON A BUDGET

It’s that time of the year again, when SF restaurants offer some lunch and dinner specials for Dine About Town (www.dineabouttown.com), running now through June 15th. You can check out a special lunch at Spruce or Campton Place (lunch deals are a prix-fixe lunch of two or three courses for $18.95), or a three-course dinner for $36.95 at places like Dosa on Fillmore, La Mar, and M.Y. China. There are more than 100 restaurants participating, check it out.

Marcia Gagliardi is the founder of the weekly tablehopper e-column; subscribe for more at www.tablehopper.com. On Twitter: @tablehopper.

The treat sheet

Michael Redmond

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June 3, 2014

1

TREAT SHEET It’s almost summer time: Forget about that diet — you’ve got bigger things to worry about than whether you can fit into that bathing suit! (How to score Outside Lands tickets, for instance, or how to get to three street fairs at once.) For our first annual Treat Sheet, we asked our readers, our staff writers, and Tablehopper restaurant guru Marcia Gagliardi for their favorite summer treats under $10 that represent the Bay Area’s delicious, locally sourced, mostly organic bounty. Grab your picnic basket and dig in. (See the Treat Sheet all on one page here.)

PORK BELLY DONUTS WITH MAPLE SYRUP AND MAKERS MARK GLAZE, $5.75

Yes, these things are just as rich and decadent as they sound. (Just one order of three is probably all you and your date will need.) When pigs meet donuts, it’s serious business

The Sycamore, 2140 Mission, SF, www.thesycamoresf.com

SLOPPY BUN, $6.95

A flavor-packed and abundant sandwich of red curry ground beef, plus garlic mayo, jalapeno, Thai basil, and shaved onion. Be sure to pay an extra $1 for an egg on top. More is more.

Bun Mee, 2015 Fillmore, SF; 650 Market, SF; www.bunmee.co

LEMON COOKIE ICE CREAM, $4.25 FOR TWO SCOOPS ON A WAFFLE CONE

Get your cookies and ice cream fix in this light, lemony two-in-one dessert.

Three Twins, 254 Fillmore, SF. www.threetwinsicecream.com

NABOLOM CINNAMON TWIST, $2

It’s been years since we’ve lived down the street and could hit them up practically every day, but these cinnamon-sugar-doused bars of gold (er, perfectly crispy-flaky-chewy croissant dough) still appear in our dreams. Get ’em fresh out of the oven if possible; the crispy caramelized sugar edges will become your new white rabbit.

Nabolom Collective Bakery, 2708 Russell St, Berk. www.nabolombakery.com

BLUES ON THE COB, $4

Baby Blues BBQ in the Mission has a great assortment of barbecued meats, and we try to mix it up — but we never deviate from one of our favorite sides: fresh roasted corn on the cob smothered in blue cheese. Yum.

Baby Blues BBQ, 3149 Mission, SF, babybluessf.com

EL FRIJOLAZO HOT DOG, $6.95

Guatemalan hot dogs, people. And believe us, you’ve never had a bacon-wrapped dog like this. The fresh-baked and toasted bun comes slathered with refried black beans, avocado, a Latin spin on mayo, and queso fresco. Finish with a squirt of the green salsa chapina on top.

Los Shucos, 3224 22nd St, SF. www.losshucos.com

MATEVEZA YERBA MATE IPA, $6

Need a buzzy kick? The folks at Cerveceria de Mateveza café near Dolores Park combined all the kick of caffeinated Argentinean necessity yerba mate with the downhome goodness of locally brewed craft beer. Olé.

Cerveceria de Mateveza, 3801 18th St., SF. www.cerveceriasf.com

PRETZEL CROISSANT, $3.50

Yeah, it’s just like it sounds: amazing. A dark-baked croissant topped with pretzel salt, ready to melt you. Fresh out of the oven every day at 11:30am.

Arlequin, 384 Hayes, SF. www.arlequincafe.com

BUFFALO BOYS, $8.50

Fried catfish in buffalo sauce, dipped in blue cheese dressing. ‘Nuff said. You could also save a buck and get the Buffalo Girls, made with seitan instead of catfish. (But why?)

Dante’s Weird Fish, 2193 Mission, SF. www.weirdfishsf.com

THOROUGH BREAD APPLE GALETTE, $2.15

Ooh la la: authentic French bakery Thorough Bread near the Castro overflows with goodies worth rising early for. But we’re saving our biggest oui oui for these delightful apple-filled pastries. Not too sweet, but your sweet tooth will thank you.

248 Church, SF. www.thoroughbreadandpastry.com

ROOSEVELT CAESAR SALAD, $10

This is one hell of a Caesar, the crisp leaves of Romaine are positively coated with the oh-so-creamy dressing, all topped with a mountainous flurry of Parmesan.

Roosevelt Tamale Parlor, 2817 24th St, SF. (415) 824-2600

ESPERPENTO GAMBAS AL AJILLO, $7

This may be the single garlickiest dish we’ve found in the city, which therefore makes it awesome. Just one order of these babies — tender shrimp drowns in garlic sauce — and a couple baskets of bread to sop up every last drop of juice. You can run on the fumes for hours.

Esperpento, 3295 22nd St., SF, www.esperpentorestaurant.com

THE REBEL WITHIN, $7.50

This stealthy treat consists of a poached egg, bacon, and scallions baked into an otherwise normal-looking savory muffin. And they even seem to get the yolk right each time, running out perfectly as you cut into it.

Craftsman and Wolves, 749 Valencia, SF, craftsman-wolves.com

STARBELLY HOUSEMADE CHICKEN LIVER PATE, $10

This ain’t your grandma’s chicken liver — this is pure buttery goodness. Spread it on toasted bread with sweet onion marmalade and grain mustard, and it’ll warm your soul.

Starbelly, 3583 16th St, SF. www.starbellysf.com

PLANTAIN BURRITO, $7.25

If you’re a carnivore, this burrito will make you consider a conversion to vegetarianism. If you’re a vegetarian, you’re welcome.

Cuco’s, 488 Haight, SF (415) 863-4906

HASH BROWN SANDWICH, $6.55

A genius breakfast item from the Inner Richmond: imagine a folded taco of crisp hash browns, with cheese, bacon (or sausage, or ham and onions) inside, and eggs and toast on the side. Boom.

Art’s Café, 747 Irving, SF. www.artscafe.com

KINAKO MOCHI, $1.35

You might not be able to eat just one, and you might want to try an assortment of mochi treats — but start with this fresh green mochi with red bean filling from a true Japantown classic.

Benkyodo Co., 1747 Buchanan, SF. www.benkyodocompany.com

FENNEL AND SUN-DRIED TOMATO LAMB SAUSAGE, $7

It’s like a ballpark hot dog all dressed up with a gourmet twist. Comes with two free toppings, like sauerkraut, grilled onions, or sweet peppers. It is so perfect with beer!

Rosamunde Sausage Grill, various locations, SF.

TAYLOR’S TONICS’ CHAI COLA, $2

All the healthful goodness of chai — in cola form. The local heroes at Taylor’s Tonics have seen this unlikely but wondrous taste combo take off nationally. (You can get it at CostCo!) But the best place to procure this invigoratingly fizzy beverage is at one of Taylor’s Fizzary soda stores.

The Fizzary, 2949 Mission, SF; 1782 Haight, SF. www.taylorstonics.com

LENTIL AND YAM PIE, $3.55

Wholesome, fresh, and flavorful, try the vegan lentil and yam pocket pie, seasoned with cumin and onion. It’s simply good and healthy for your wallet, too.

Peasant Pies, multiple locations. www.peasantpies.com.

GREEN CHILE STEW $5; HOUSE SPECIALTY PIE, $8

Cross over to the savory side of the menu at this oasis of organic goodness. Try the pork, chicken, or veggie versions of the signature green chile stew. The cross back over to sweetness — with a kick — and dive into a slice of Green Chile’s house specialty pie: apple a la mode with a generous drizzle of red chile honey. Good lord.

Chile Pies Sweet and Savory, 314 Church, SF. (415) 431-9411 www.greenchilekichen.com

HONEYDEW SHAKE WITH PEARL, $3.25

When confronted with the list of pearl shake options, you might be tempted to just go for it and ask for the durian shake with pearl or the guyabano shake with pearl. But if you want sweet heavenly goodness to counterbalance a bowl of fiery noodles, take it from us that ordering the honeydew shake with pearl is the wisest move of all.

Kevin’s Noodle House, various locations. www.kevinnoodlehouse.com

TAO YEUN BAKED BBQ PORK BUN, LESS THAN $1

They are baked, they are filled with BBQ pork, and they are buns. You can find them practically anywhere in the bay. But there is good reason why everyone raves about these glazed clouds of perfection on the Internet. Pick up some sesame balls while you’re at it, why don’t you?

Tao Yeun Pastry, 816 Franklin, Oakl. (510) 834-9200

TU LAN #17, $7.45

No matter what Twitter has done to “clean up” (sweep homeless folks out of) the neighborhood, the real protests will begin when something threatens Tu Lan, the mother of all cheap, delicious Vietnamese noodle purveyors. The #17 pork kebab with imperial roll and rice noodles — a blend of sweet and spicy fried goodness — has cured many a hangover, and tops our pork kebab list. Long may she reign.

Tu Lan, 8 Sixth St, SF. www.tulan-vn-restaurant.com

PANNA GELATO WITH EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL AND SEA SALT, $7

Don’t be fooled by the odd-sounding flavor clash — servers will tell you flat-out that this decadent combination of sweet, creamy gelato, and light, fruity olive oil, accented with rock salt, is the best thing on the menu. We’re gladly working our way through all the items to find out.

Beretta, 1199 Valencia, SF. www.berettasf.com

PUERTO ALEGRE CHILAQUILES, $6.85

These fried tortilla slices scrambled with eggs and sauteed with a tasty red or green sauce are a magic hangover cure. Wash down with a house margarita — or, hell, a pitcher — to do it all over again. (Only on the weekend breakfast menu.)

Puerto Alegre, 546 Valencia, SF (415) 255-8201

CHILLED TRIPE “TRIPPERIA STYLE,” $8.50

This tripe is truly something special — it’s tender and served chilled, with lemon, chile oil, and sea salt (you get to decide how much to put on of each ingredient). A favorite of those who especially dig tripe or feeling incredibly Italian.

Pizzeria Delfina, various locations. www.pizzeriadelfina.com

MACARON ICE CREAM SANDWICH, $5

The delicate flavor of French macarons … the creamy sumptuousness of ice cream … the ungodly gobbling noise as you wolf it all down! Available in red velvet, chocolate chocolate, or “vanilla birthday.”

Cako, various locations. www.cako.com

MARLA BAGEL WITH HERBED FARMER’S CHEESE, $5

There are bagels, and then there are these amazing bagels baked by Amy Brown. Some of the best in the city, don’t miss ’em.

Marla Bakery Kitchen Communal, 613 York, SF. www.marlabakery.com

BUCKWHEAT WAFFLE, $9

This savory waffle also comes with crème fraîche, cucumber, and trout roe on top. Elegant! Brilliant for brunch.

Lt. Waffle at Linea Caffe, 3417 18th St., SF. www.lineacaffe.com

TROU NORMAN COPPA, $7

Some of the silkiest coppa you’ve ever had will be found here. There are actually about 14 kinds of housemade salumi for you to choose from, all $7 and under.

Trou Normand, 140 New Montgomery, SF. www.trounormandsf.com

CAFÉ VAN KLEEF GREYHOUND, $7

Feel a cold coming on? Get your daily dose of vitamin C and your weekly allotment of vodka with a fresh-squeezed grapefruit greyhound — featuring a stiff pour and a whole quarter of a grapefruit as a wedge — at this beloved, old-school Oakland spot.

Cafe Van Kleef, 1621 Telegraph, Oak. www.cafevankleef.com

WISE SONS NOODLE KUGEL, $3.50

Totally not fair to put this contemporary version of a Jewish standby on this list — it is a figurative brick of delish, sweet noodles cooked into a heavy square topped with crumble and served in a puddle of berry sauce.

Wise Sons Deli, 3150 24th St, SF. www.wisesonsdeli.com

CHEDDAR CHEESE GRILLED SANDWICH, $9.75

This is one cheesy sandwich, filled with Shelburne Farms and Fiscalini cheddar with sage and apples on house-baked kale whole wheat bread. Just beyond.

Le Marais, 2066 Chestnut, SF. www.lemaraisbakery.com

LIGURIA BAKERY PIZZA FOCACCIA, $5

If you manage to get to North Beach’s justly-famed Liguria early — very early — enough, you’ll be rewarded with soft, spongy, fabulously oily tomato bomb focaccia, sprinkled with green onions on top.

Liguria Bakery, 1700 Stockton, SF. (415) 421-3786

BUFFALO WINGS, $10

Or you can have Angry Korean wings, or dry rub, or seven other kinds, 10 flappers for just $10. Yeah, and it’s quality chicken too: air-chilled Mary’s birds. Piping hot and finger lickin’ good.

Wing Wings, 422 Haight, SF. www.wingwingssf.com

BACON BACON BANH MI, $8

This killer banh mi comes stuffed with pork and bacon patties, pickled vegetables, jalapenos, cilantro, and sriracha mayo. Good stuff, served specially from the Bacon Bacon café or truck.

Bacon Bacon, 205 A Frederick, SF. www.baconbaconsf.com

THE AUTHENTIC BANH MI, $5

Just try to find a bigger banh mi at that price. Comes with roasted pork belly, roasted five-spice pork shoulder, housemade headcheese, and Vietnamese pork sausage, plus a slew of vegetables. Grab some napkins.

Mission Banh Mi in Duc Loi, 2200 Mission, SF. www.ducloi.com

FROZEN GREEK YOGURT, $4–$5

Move over fro-yo, this tangy number is going to steal the show. Baklava crumbles on top with syrup, are you kidding? Or how about olive oil and flaky sea salt? Greek sour cherry syrup? However you want it, here in Hayes Valley.

Souvla, 517 Hayes, SF. www.souvlasf.com

THRICE-COOKED FRIES, MANIMAL STYLE, $7

These fries are bonkers: They’re thick and hot, and come smothered in “doggie sauce” (housemade aioli with ketchup, sriracha, and chow chow relish), shredded cheddar cheese, charred scallion, and a sprinkling of piment d’Espelette for extra kick.

Trick Dog, 3010 20th St., SF. www.trickdogbar.com

BANANA CREAM TART, $7.25

Pretty much the benchmark for banana cream pie in town. Almost too good with that touch of dark chocolate and caramel. Almost.

Tartine Bakery, 600 Guerrero, SF. www.tartinebakery.com

TURTLE TOWER PHO GA, $8.25

One of the finest chicken noodle dishes in the city, this enormous bowl of pho will cure whatever ails you: hangover, cold, or just hunger. Perfect for fog-drenched afternoon.

Turtle Tower, various locations. www.turtletowersf.com

PORK BELLY BAO, $6.75

Imagine a tender baked bun, stuffed with pork belly, turmeric-pickled daikon, and green shiso. (Or you can get it in a steamed bun for $3.75.)

The Chairman Truck, www.thechaimantruck.com

LA TORTA GORDA TINGA TORTA, $9.25

This torta can last you the entire day and then some; this monster is stuffed with shredded chicken stewed in chipotle and onion, refried beans, avocado, queso fresco, onions, mayo, and jalapenos. A junior is $6.95, and plenty.

La Torta Gorda, 2833 24th St, SF. www.latortagorda.net

CRANKSHAFT SANDWICH, $10

An excellent tuna melt, this one comes with a decadent mayonnaise-based tuna salad made with albacore, plus house pickles, Shelburne cheddar, and arugula to lighten it up a little.

Machine, 1024 Market, SF. (415) 913-7370

DECONSTRUCTED SAMOSA, $7

This dish is a crazy mountain of garbanzos, a meat or tofu of your choice, pico de gallo, chutney, and crispy sev noodles on top, plus mini samosas on the side. Delicious confusion.

Curry Up Now, 659 Valenica, SF. www.curryupnow.com

WHITE SPINACH SLICE, $4

This unassuming pizza shop in the Mission makes one hell of a New York-style slice, and the white spinach slice (spinach, ricotta, mozzarella, Parmesan, garlic) is rich and tasty. Great crisp crust.

The Pizza Shop, 3104 24th St, SF. (415) 824-1840

BEEP’S PINEAPPLE SHAKE, $3.50

This creamy, citrusy, brainfreezing rush is a legend — people have been talking about it for generations. The rest of the Ingleside diner’s menu is your basic ’50s throwback drive-through diner fare (plus teriyaki bowls), but the shake goes down well with some salty fries.

Beep’s Burgers, 1051 Ocean Avenue, SF. (415) 584-2650

TONKOTSU KOTTERI RAMEN, $8.45

Some of the richest pork broth you’ll find, this bowl of ramen also comes with black garlic oil. It’s fatty and decadent and something you should try at least once.

Ramen Yamadaya, 1728 Buchanan, SF. www.ramen-yamadaya.com

BEEF PHO ROLLS, $8

Swing by this happening Vietnamese cafe for weekend brunch and don’t pass up these rolls of tender rice noodles (made fresh!) with ground beef and Thai basil inside.

Rice Paper Scissors, 1710 Mission, SF. www.ricepaperscissors.com

CHINESE MAI TAI, $9

Nothing says hot summer nights like a great big cup of “erase your brain.”

Li po Lounge, 916 Grant, SF. www.lipolounge.com

OLD JERUSALEM HUMMUS, $7.50

Not only do you get a platter of pitch-perfect hummus, but you get a bowl of fluffy, warm pita — plus pickled beets, olives, a couple more dips, and some old-school charm.

Old Jerusalem, 2976 Mission, SF. (415) 642-5958

CANCUN SUPER NACHOS, $5.99

Sure, Taqueria Cancun’s tortilla chips are notoriously meh, but the perennially popular spot loads so many toppings onto these overflowing nachos that you’ll hardly notice. (You can add meat for $2.)

Taqueria Cancun, 2288 Mission, SF. (415) 252-9560

BISCUIT BENDER BISCUIT AND BUTTER, $3.50–$4

Take your pick of buttermilk biscuits, from double bacon-maple to cheddar to Mexican hot chocolate, and add on special butters like espresso butter, or bacon-bourbon jam.

Biscuit Bender, Ferry Building Marketplace, 1 Ferry Building, SF. www.biscuitbender.com

BEST DAMN GRASS-FED CHEESEBURGER, $8.75; FRANKARONI $5

The burger at this new Divis hotspot lives up to its name, with a housemade sesame-scallion bun, dry-aged meat, secret sauce, Gruyere, red onion, and lettuce. You can add housemade bacon for $1.25, or an egg for $2. And hey! Why not pick up another perfect summer treat: A side of frankaroni, basically fried mac and cheese with hot dog inside, is five dollars.

4505 Burgers & BBQ, 705 Divisadero, SF. www.4505meats.com

YUZU CHICKEN WINGS, $9.50

These are some mighty juicy chicken wings, with a flaky exterior (they’re fried in potato starch); get them for $6 during happy hour (Monday through Friday from 5:30pm–6:30pm).

ICHI Sushi + NI Bar, 3282 Mission, www.ichisuchi.com

EL DORADO TACO, $3.75

These off-menu tacos at La Taqueria are like the precursor to the chalupa. A crispy taco is folded within a soft one, and melted cheese holds the two together. Magic. You have to get the carnitas, of course (it also comes with beans). And it’s worth ponying up for some guacamole on top.

La Taqueria, 2889 Mission, SF. (415) 285-7117

Ooh la la!

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May 27, 2014

6

culture@sfbg.com

TABLEHOPPING First up in a slew of new openings: this hot little Frenchie number that just arrived downtown, Gaspar (185 Sutter, SF. www.gasparbrasserie.com). The two-level brasserie has a downstairs bar and casual dining area — you can sink into a deep red banquette while enjoying a Champagne cocktail — while the upstairs has a more spacious bar area and dining room (the scene of your next hot date). The place is gorgeous, with sexy lighting, eye-catching décor patterns, and more. The menu by Chris Jones boasts some classics like grand plateau of seafood, escargot, chickpea panisse cakes, and entrecote. But you’ll spot California seasonality throughout the menu as well.

The bar menu also deserves your attention: everything from cheese and charcuterie to a burger (to which you can add Camembert, Raclette, or Cambozola). The French-inspired cocktails by Kevin Diedrich will tempt you to over-indulge, featuring everything from Champagne to brandy and Calvados. Save room for dessert by Chucky Dugo, previously of Slanted Door Group — they’re as tasty as they are pretty. Request the Paris-Brest for dessert! Your server won’t bat an eye, but your date might.

If you’re looking for a place a little less swish, another downtown newcomer is Bartlett Hall (242 O’Farrell, SF. www.bartletthallsf.com), a stylish tavern — but not too stylee: It’s got TVs, so you can kick back and watch the game. Plunk yourself down at the super-long bar for a barrel-aged cocktail and some of chef Eman Eng’s delicious small plates like chicken wings with fermented pepper sauce and miso- and maple-glazed ribs. Or you can grab a table to share a carbonara flatbread and farro risotto with vegetables. Go full-tilt on a Maverick burger, made with more butter than your doctor would ever want to know. (I won’t tell.)

You’ll note some brewing equipment in the back — Bartlett will be pumping out a couple house beers soon, but there are plenty of other brews to choose from in the meantime (and wines by the glass too). Best of all: the Hall’s open late! Daily hours 11am–2am, with lunch 11am–2:30pm, happy hour 2:30pm–5:30pm, dinner 5:30pm–10pm, bar menu (including snacks, pizza, and burger) 10pm–1am, and snacks only from 1am–2am.

Fans of the pop-up(ish) Chubby Noodle at Amante in North Beach are going to have one more opportunity to dig into chef Pete Mrabe’s crave-able vittles with a new Chubby Noodle (2205 Lombard, SF. www.chubbynoodle.com) in the Marina in the former Gatip Thai. Planned dishes include garlic noodles, raw seafood dishes, ramen, pork buns, dumplings, and more. Mrabe’s biz partner, Nick Floulis, is coming up with some clever wine-based cocktails, like the Cold Tea (afterhours drinkers and diners will get the reference), plus a bunch of wines — and sake! — on tap. This Chubby’s just doing a soft opening for now, starting Thursday May 29, and will only be open Thu–Sat 5pm until 12am to start, serving about 30-40 people a night. Hours will expand in a few weeks. Like your waistline.

Ten-hut! In the Presidio, there’s a new restaurant called The Commissary (101 Montgomery St., on the Main Post of the Presidio, SF. www.thecommissarysf.com) from the Presidio Trust, Traci Des Jardins, and Bon Appétit Management Company. The 112-seat space is offering a Cal-Spanish menu (under culinary director Robbie Lewis and chef Reylon Agustin) — bring on the sardines, cured tuna with radishes and fennel pollen, salt cod fritters, and fennel and baby artichoke paella. Cocktails, check. It’s a handsome space, simple and American (it’s in a former mess hall that dates back to 1895) and the shaded front porch is where you’ll want to be on a warm day; open now for lunch and dinner, with light breakfast and coffee coming June 2, and Sunday brunch June 8. At ease.

Marcia Gagliardi is the founder of the weekly tablehopper e-column; subscribe for more at www.tablehopper.com. Get her app: Tablehopper’s Top Late-Night Eats. On Twitter: @tablehopper.

Domo arigato

Michael Redmond

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May 20, 2014

0

marcia@sfbg.com

JUST TRY TO KEEP UP WITH ALL OF THIS

Sushi lovers in search of great new spots, prick up their ears: Now accepting reservations is Kusakabe (584 Washington, SF. www.kusakabe-sf.com), a sushi restaurant from Mitsunori “Nori” Kusakabe — he was previously gaining quite the fan club while at Sushi Ran. His omakase (chef’s selection) menu will be $95 and features a lot of sushi, including some ancient styles, extending beyond the more common Edomae style we usually find here in the US. The menu takes on a kaiseki format, with themes of seasonality and harmony playing very prominent roles. You can supplement the main menu with extra dishes off the à la carte menu (I will not judge you for wanting the ikura and ankimo, I’m right there with you). Kusabe is an intimate space, with 31 seats, so reserve your spot before this place gets too busy — I have my money on that happening very soon. Open Tue–Sun 5pm–10pm.

Hayes Valley is gaining a couple more dining options, and both are spots that have locations elsewhere in the city. Throwing open the doors this week is Papito West (425A Hayes, SF. www.papitosf.com) from Jocelyn Bulow (Chez Maman) and co-owner David Alexander. It’s hermano to the Potrero Hill location, so you’ll be able to order off the taqueria part of the menu — think well-executed tacos, plus quesadillas, burritos, and more, all made with organic ingredients. But what’s new about this location is that it’ll feature a significant amount of seafood and ceviches from a raw bar. Chef Reynol Martinez whips up a crudo plate, oyster of the day (just as the sign says, it’s an “Oysteria”), and a shellfish platter with oysters, prawns, mussels, and clams, along with some seafood entrées too. You’ll hardly recognize the former Moishe’s Pippic: the room is full of light (thanks to the skylight), with windows that open to the street, plus a few outdoor tables. Continuous hours (so handy) will run Mon–Fri 11:30am–11pm, and Sat–Sun for brunch 10:30am–4pm and dinner 4pm–11pm.

Is that your sweet tooth gnawing at you? Maybe you just have an attack of afternoon munchies. Also now open in Hayes Valley, in the former Taste Tea space, is Loving Cup (535 Octavia, SF. www.lovingcupsf.com), known on Polk Street for its rice pudding and frozen yogurt that you can style with all kinds of toppings. There are also some larger tables at this location, with the intention of hosting birthday parties (or just your local club of rice pudding fanatics). Open 11am–9:30pm.

While Gashead Tavern (2351 Mission, SF. www.facebook.com/gasheadtavern) may have a bit of a menacing name (and sign), this is what happens when the two British owners (Edward Sargent and Rodger Howell of Murio’s Trophy Room on Haight Street) are seriously dedicated to their hometown soccer team, the Bristol Rovers, whose fans are called “gasheads.” So now you know. What you also need to know is that you’ll find British pub classics on the menu (fish and chips, of course, plus bangers and mash), and chef Matt Nudelman (previously of Lower Haight’s Greenburger’s) will be adding some California ingredient sourcing and seasonality to the hearty menu. There’s a full bar with simple takes on classic cocktails, plus beer and wine. The former Charanga has an eclectic look, with a huge antique mirror keeping company with midcentury chairs, and there’s a small outdoor seating area in the front of the restaurant. Opening hours are 4pm–2am for the bar and 4pm–9pm for the kitchen. Cheers, mate.

BALLIN’ ON A BUDGET

Just in case you’re looking for a new happy hour to add to your rotation, the NI Bar in the back of the new ICHI Sushi (3282 Mission, SF. www.ichisushi.com) in Bernal has happy hour specials like $1 oysters (so fresh and so clean), $6 yuzu chicken wings (so juicy and so good), a changing selection of $6 glasses of wine and sake, plus $4 pints of Sapporo. The regular bar menu will also be available. Hit it up Monday–Friday from 5:30pm–6:30pm.

Marcia Gagliardi is the founder of the weekly tablehopper e-column; subscribe for more at www.tablehopper.com. Get her app: Tablehopper’s Top Late-Night Eats. On Twitter: @tablehopper.

SF en fuego

Michael Redmond

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May 13, 2014

0

culture@sfbg.com

ANOTHER WEEK, MORE OPENINGS!

TABLEHOPPER Just when you thought you already had enough options of new places to check out, you get hit with more. Yup, this month is bonkers, and could very well be setting a record for the most openings in a month. Let’s do this.

Due to open this week is Outerlands (4001 Judah, SF; www.outerlandssf.com), with a newly expanded space (owners Lana Porcello and Dave Muller took over the Chinese restaurant next door and knocked the wall down) and a new chef (Greg Kuzia-Carmel). There will be 20 more seats, and a big bonus is the new bar area, with 10 bar seats and some high-top bistro tables, perfect for those moments when you just want to slip in for a cocktail, or even a full meal. You’ll notice the expanded kitchen with a cool architectural feature above it (it looks like a white wave). The cocktail list will be more extensive, with Chris O’Brien as the new bar manager and some consultation from Kevin Dowell, who is the bar manager at Foreign Cinema — look for some initial cocktail pop-up nights to start as they ramp things up. Other additions: Brunch will now be served Saturday and Sunday, and during the week 8–10am, there will be an edited brunch service. It’s enough to make someone plot a morning beach walk, with breakfast before (or after!). Outerlands plans to start with lunch this week (10am–3pm), but check its website before heading over — weekend brunch will be kicking in too, and then dinner service and bar bites soon thereafter.

Now for a couple of SF classics that have been redone and zhooshed. First up, the Big 4 (1075 California, SF; www.big4restaurant.com) has reopened, and fortunately not tooooo much has been changed inside. Ty is still shaking cocktails at the bar and telling jokes, the white tablecloths and leather banquettes in British racing green remain, and guests will still hear the grand piano playing. So what’s new? Well, the snazzy carpet for one. A big change is longtime chef Gloria Ciccarone-Nehls has departed, and the menu from the new chef, Kevin Scott, will be launching May 23 (there’s just an interim menu for now). Some of his dishes will include previous menu staples but with new twists.

There’s also a new cocktail menu with some additions. You can come by for breakfast and dinner daily (6:30–10:30am and 5:30–10pm) and there’s talk of lunch service returning too!

Another SF icon that got a big redo is Schroeder’s (240 Front, SF; www.schroederssf.com), the 120-year-old downtown German beer hall, with new owners and quite a new look too (although the Herman Richter murals remain in place). While it’s definitely a beer hall, the space has a sense of modernity as well (blond wood, Tolix metal chairs, and check out the illuminated glass shelving with beer steins). You can order cocktails from bar director Claire Jane Hunter at the original rosewood bar, cicerone Rich Higgins is behind the quality beer selection (15 on tap), and the wine list is from Mauro Cirilli of Press Club — yeah, people who know what they’re doing. Prost to all of it. Chef Manfred Wrembel (Plum, Incanto) is doing a Cali spin on German dishes (like spätzle with corn, tomato, and ricotta), with some meaty entrées (yes, there’s wiener schnitzel) and the bar menu features a dry-aged cheeseburger.

You like to play mini golf, drink beer, and eat deep-dish pizza, all without leaving the comfort of the Mission? Well, you’re in luck, because Urban Putt (1096 South Van Ness, SF; www.urbanputt.com) is now open (in a former mortuary, how vewy cweepy!). There’s a 14-hole course (complete with a Transamerica building — and you thought I was going to say Transylvania building), a restaurant and bar upstairs (just beer and wine for now), and even the kiddies can come play during the day (until 8pm); $12 adults, $8 kids, first-come, first-served. *

Marcia Gagliardi is the founder of the weekly tablehopper e-column; subscribe for more at www.tablehopper.com. Get her app: Tablehopper’s Top Late-Night Eats. On Twitter: @tablehopper.

Open sesame

Michael Redmond

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May 6, 2014

0

culture@sfbg.com

SO. MANY. OPENINGS.

Are you ready for an onslaught of new restaurant openings? Because I’m about to hit you with a tidal wave of new places to check out — it’s like Mavericks or something on the new restaurant front. Hang ten!

First up, the former wood-fired barbecue pit at Brother-in-Law’s/Da’ Pitt on Divisadero is lit back up, and the neighborhood should be smelling delightfully smoky again with the much-anticipated opening of 4505 Burgers & BBQ (705 Divisadero, SF; www.4505meats.com). Chef-owner Ryan Farr is busy serving a variety of smoked meats — brisket, pulled pork or chicken, and sausages (you can get it all by the plate or pound or in a sandwich) — plus salads, a whole bunch of sides (baked beans, potato salad, you know the drill), the 4505 hot dog, and what they call the best damn grass-fed cheeseburger, which you can get late (there’s a late-night menu that will be served at the take-out window Fri–Sat 10pm–2am, praise the lard). For now, everything is to-go (including a selection of cold beers!) until the patio opens up in June with seating. Opening hours are Sun–Thu 10:30am–10pm, and Fri–Sat 10:30am–2am.

More smoky smells: Over at Magnolia’s Dogpatch brewery location, owner Dave McLean’s new barbecue restaurant is due to open this week, Smokestack (2505 Third St., SF; www.magnoliapub.com). Chef Dennis Lee (Namu Gaji) is leading the charge on the menu, featuring barbecue classics coming from the smokers and custom grill, plus some creative sides. The 80-seat space is a looker, with an artsy-vintage patina, communal tables, and wait until you see the expansive, glimmering bar — it’ll make you very, very thirsty. Whether you’re into whiskey or just want a pint of Blue Bell Bitter, you’re covered.

Bacon Bacon truck chasers can now return to BB’s brick-and-mortar location in Cole Valley (205A Frederick, SF; www.baconbaconsf.com), which has reopened after installing the “odor abatement system” their bacon-hating NIMBY neighbors demanded. The space was updated inside, and you’ll find 13 seats where you can post up and chomp their breakfast sandwich (fried egg, bacon, cheddar, and bacon jam), fantastic banh mi, bacon burger, and other bacony items, like chocolate-covered bacon strips for dessert (we won’t tell Mom). Open Mon–Fri 7am–3pm, Sat–Sun 8am–3pm.

Hog Island Oyster Company has finished its expansion at the Ferry Building Marketplace (1 Ferry Building, SF; www.hogislandoysters.com) and is now double in size, with 65 seats inside, and 65 outside. There’s also a new chef at the helm (Christopher Laramie) and a fryer (!), so look for a bigger menu, with an oyster po’boy, fried smelts, and more (don’t worry, the clam chowder and grilled cheese sandwich are staying put). There’s also a full bar, score. Its insane happy hour will continue on Mon and Thu 5pm–6pm, with chef’s choice of half-price oysters on the half shell, plus beer and wine specials.

Fifth Floor in the Hotel Palomar has completed its transformation into the bar-centric Dirty Habit (12 Fourth St., Fifth floor, SF; www.dirtyhabitsf.com). Chef David Bazirgan has put together a bar-friendly menu (think lots of tasty small plates), while bar manager Brian Means is shaking and stirring a variety of creative cocktails — many served in fun vintage glassware — plus pouring a bunch of rare spirits and whiskeys (there are also some special wines being pulled from the cellar). Big bonus: the new heated outdoor patio.

SoMa workers and dwellers have a swell new spot to get their coffee, breakfast (broken farro porridge, house-made muffins), sandwiches (bacon-wrapped meatloaf, or a roasted mushroom sandwich with Swiss cheese, spinach, and garlic), salads, and more. Lauren Kino of Il Cane Rosso (home of the best egg salad sandwich in town) has opened Fearless (303 Second St., SF; www.fearlesscoffee.com), serving you Mon–Fri 7am–5pm and Sat–Sun 8am–3pm. And looking very, very close is Outerlands (4001 Judah, SF; www.outerlandssf.com), due to open at some point this week, but we’ll save the details about the new chef (Greg Kuzia-Carmel), menu, and more until next week’s column. Because really, you have enough to keep you busy here, doncha? *

Marcia Gagliardi is the founder of the weekly tablehopper e-column; subscribe for more at www.tablehopper.com. Get her app: Tablehopper’s Top Late-Night Eats. On Twitter: @tablehopper.