Marcia Gagliardi Archives — Page 2 of 3 — San Francisco Bay Guardian Archive 1966

Cin cin!

Michael Redmond

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April 29, 2014

culture@sfbg.com

INOVINO

This Cole Valley enoteca is under the close watch of Claudio Villani, un vero Italiano with an extensive history working in quality restaurants like Perbacco, so you can bet he’s going to be pouring you some notable Italian wines. (If the little tag on your glass telling you what variety it is seems familiar, Villani was the opening wine director for Incanto, where he came up with that little touch.) The list has a particular focus on Alpine and volcanic wines of Italy, and good value is also important — we love that. Food options are very enoteca-like, including a looong list of tasty, artisan Italian cheeses, plus some fresh-sliced salumi, very thin-crust pizzette that are easy to share, and more antipasti. This piccolo place has a contemporary look, with a marble counter, cherry red overhead lights, and even some outdoor seating. If you want to learn more about — and taste! — Italian wine, you’re in good hands here.

108 Carl, SF. www.inovinosf.com

20 SPOT

Probably the most stylish of the vino newcomer bunch is this Mission post-modern hideaway, just enough off busy Valencia to keep things from getting too crazy-packed. Proprietor Bodhi Freedom also owns Bacchus wine bar, so he knows a thing or two about hospitality — and wine. The list has some quality European picks, ranging from $9 to $15, although the wallet-friendly bottle prices will inspire you to go with a friend and split one. This place is so perfect for a date — the lights are just dim enough, and a beautiful oyster platter to share will get things started nicely. The menu, from chef Caleb Jones, goes beyond cheese and salumi: Burrata with seasonal vegetables, hamachi crudo, and mussels in muscadet broth perfumed with tarragon are excellent (you may want to request more of the Della Fattoria bread to soak up that gorgeous buttery broth). If you’re solo, the wine bar can be a friendly spot to hang out, and there’s always some fun vinyl playing on the stereo, from Led Zep to George Michael.

3565 20th St, SF. www.20spot.com

LA NEBBIA

La Ciccia owners Massimiliano Conti and Lorella Degan may have created this enoteca as a place to handle overflow, and to offer a casual and easy place for their customers to swing by. But it has ended up as popular and packed as their first restaurant. (Yeah, they have a big fan club.) La Nebbia features a cheese list of fresh and creamy picks, and the selection of 10-plus hams includes a 36-month San Daniele prosciutto that will blow your mind, man. Try to sit at the wine bar for maximum wine tasting and pairing shenanigans. Most of the wines on the list come from cloudy areas (la nebbia means “fog”), so expect wines from the Veneto, Piemonte, and Montalcino, with an eye toward sustainability and food-friendliness. There are a bunch of wines by the glass; you’ll get turned on to some new ones at all budget levels. Bubbly lovers will be especially pleased with the tingles on offer here. And the cold lasagne? Try it, it’s one of the many surprises on the menu. Conti and his team are having a fun time with the food here.

1781 Church, SF. www.lanebbia.com

AQUITAINE

This downtown bistro is (somewhat sneakily) holding an absolutely fantastic wine list a bit close to its chest. Co-owner Andrew Fidelman has assembled a French wine lover’s treasure map that is deeply focused on Gascony, the home region of fellow owner Laurent Manrique. Bonus: The drinking list does double-duty as a shopping list (at retail prices), so the next time you need to grab a bottle after work, here’s your spot. The menu boasts some rocking deviled eggs with duck bacon, and the roasted duck dish is also magnifique — although I could do without its campfire-like presentation: It’s too smoky when it comes to the table. The riz au lait for dessert is a must, you won’t find anything like it in SF. Aquitaine’s a popular spot for lunch, although you may very well need to make it a long, drinking lunch. The décor feels a bit like someone’s grand-mère put it together. (So. Many. Sunflowers.) But it does have an authentic Frenchy-coziness to it. You’ll leave well-fed and tipsy.

175 Sutter, SF. www.aquitainesf.com

Marcia Gagliardi is the founder of the weekly tablehopper e-column; subscribe for more at www.tablehopper.com. Get her app: Tablehopper’s Top Late-Night Eats. On Twitter: @tablehopper.

Let’s pig out

Michael Redmond

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April 22, 2014

5

culture@sfbg.com

TASTY ASIAN EATS

Anyone who digs the Vietnamese vittles from the Rice Paper Scissors ladies will be happy to know they have expanded their weekday lunch hours to the weekend, and have launched brunch at Brick & Mortar Music Hall (1710 Mission, SF. www.brickandmortarmusic.com). Come by 11am–2pm Saturdays and Sundays and you’ll find a menu with a bit of Chinese influence too, with dishes like daikon rice cakes with Chinese sausage and dry-fried chicken wings. And why try to resist a fried egg banh mi or banh xeo? Just do it. Like it hot? There’s a mapo scramble, which sounds promising, plus a Sriracha Bloody Mary. Don’t forget your cash! No cards accepted, yo.

Fans of the Lime Tree in the Inner Sunset (and its roti, corn fritters, beef rendang, and martabak) will be pleased to know a second location has opened across the park in the Inner Richmond (836 Clement, SF. 415-831-8811). This popular Southeast Asian restaurant is fired up and ready to serve you Tue–Fri 11am–3pm and 5pm–9:30pm, Sat 12pm–9:30pm, and Sun 12pm–9pm.

Izakaya Roku (1819 Market, SF. www.rokusf.com) has two new chefs in the kitchen — and they’re brothers! Ends up Masaru and Yasu come from owner Jay Hamada’s same hometown in Japan (Miyazaki), and they’re collaborating and putting some country-style dishes from home on the menu. Also available: You’ll now find the Japanese curry that’s served from the JapaCurry food truck at the restaurant. Good stuff.

MOOD INDIGO

It’s not easy to be open for 15 years in the restaurant biz, but one place that just seems to keep getting even better is Bernal neighborhood restaurant Blue Plate (3218 Mission, SF. www.blueplatesf.com). It’s been feeding us fried chicken, famed meatloaf, and sell-your-soul-to-the-devil mac and cheese for 15 years, so now it’s time to celebrate!

For three nights, the Plate’s lined up three special winemaker dinners: Thursday May 1, Steve and Chrystal Clifton of Palmina Wines will be in attendance, 5:30pm–10pm, followed by Sean Thackrey Wines Friday May 2, 5:30pm–10:30pm, and John Lancaster of Skylark, Saturday May 3, 5:30pm–10:30pm. The winemakers will mingle with guests, talking about their wines — and here’s the best part: You’ll get a wine flight of five tastes for just $15. Chef Sean Thomas will be cooking up an à la carte menu (here’s hoping the grilled squid will be on there, so good). Make your reservation soon (415-282-6777), tables are filling up. All hail the neighborhood restaurant!

HERE, PIG

The full-tilt pig-fest that is Cochon 555 returns to San Francisco on Sunday, April 27, when five chefs compete to be crowned the Prince or Princess of Porc, plus there are five pigs (all heritage breeds from small-scale farmers) used for the whole hog menu, and five winemakers to keep you feeling good. This year, Kim Alter (Plum), Mark Liberman (TBD), Michael Rotondo (Parallel 37), Richie Nakano (Hapa Ramen), and David Bazirgan (Dirty Habit) will be competing by creating up to six dishes each, and judges and attendees will determine the winner.

Additional bonuses: a station featuring Goose Island Beer and Hudson Valley Foie Gras; a bourbon bar featuring Eagle Rare, Buffalo Trace, Breckenridge Bourbon, Hirsch, Templeton Rye, and Luxardo (pig and bourbon, you do the math); a cheese bar from Mission Cheese; a prosciutto di Parma station; an ice cream social; plus a hog butchering demo. Are you ready for all this? Yeah, it’s pretty debauched. Show up hungry. At the Ritz-Carlton, San Francisco, 600 Stockton, SF. 5pm–8pm (4pm entry for VIP). $125 general admission, $200 VIP, www.cochon555.com

Marcia Gagliardi is the founder of the weekly tablehopper e-column; subscribe for more at www.tablehopper.com. Get her app: Tablehopper’s Top Late-Night Eats. On Twitter: @tablehopper.

Lotsa Matzoh

Michael Redmond

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April 15, 2014

0

MIDDAY MADNESS

Just when you think the brunch at Slow Club (2501 Mariposa, SF. www.slowclub.com) couldn’t possibly rock any more than it already does, the perennial hotspot makes the move to offer it all week long. Really? For reals! You can have a fried egg sandwich for lunch, and you don’t have to wait until the weekend for bourbon French toast. Available Mon–Fri 11:30am–2:30pm, and of course Sat–Sun 10am–2:30pm.

A nice addition to the lunch scene: the lunch at A16 (2355 Chestnut, SF. www.a16sf.com) in the Marina. You can now come by Wed–Sun 11:30am–2:30pm and feast on delicious pizzas, pastas, and small plates. It’s also worth checking out the $20 tasting menu, perfect for a leisurely lunch. Because leisurely lunches are the best.

Downtown workers no longer have to wait until the end of the day to check out recent fave-rave Trou Normand (140 New Montgomery, SF. www.trounormandsf.com), which has now added lunch service during the week, Mon–Fri 11am–2:30pm. You’ll find sandwiches, an awesome charcuterie plate, and more (like, uh, cocktails!).

And just in case the prices at downtown’s Hakkasan (One Kearny Place, SF. www.hakkasan.com/sanfrancisco) have always been a bit out of reach (or just too much, period), it’s added a menu of affordable lunch dishes for $5.50 each. We’re talking stir-fry roasted duck with chile in Szechuan sauce, pork and shrimp dumplings, and Teochew John Dory congee — eight dishes in all. And it’s hard to beat the location, it’s so beautiful.

DON’T PASS THIS OVER

Local restaurants and businesses are rolling out special Passover menus and more. (Passover goes through Tuesday, April 22.)

Guest chef Joyce Goldstein will be in the house (working alongside chef Staffan Terje) at Perbacco (230 California, SF. www.perbaccosf.com) for its annual Italian Passover dinner — the sixth — although this year the menu is featured for two days: Wednesday, April 16, and Thursday, April 17. There will be a four-course menu (with so many choices!) for $52 per person, with dishes like fegato di anatra alle uova sode (that would be chopped duck liver, Italian style) and stufato d’agnello (lamb stew with green garlic).

Delfina (3621 18th St., SF. www.delfinasf.com) is known for its matzoh balls with a walnut inside, which you’ll find on the menu along with other Passover-inspired items, like an edible Seder plate, salt cod croquettes, brisket, and more (through April 21). Kosher wine (the good kind!) and beer from He’Brew will keep you in good spirits.

Lastly, you can order some Passover goodies (and Easter treats too!) at Marla Bakery Kitchen Communal (613 York, SF. www.marlabakery.com). TCHO chocolate–dipped housemade matzoh, yes please! Pre-order on its site.

THANK YOU EASTER BUNNY, BWOK BWOK

Easter Sunday is coming April 20 — here are some hopping places to brunch.

For some wine-soaked fun, check out the BITE ME Easter brunch 11am–3pm (by Sean Lackey) at vino destination Tank 18 (1345 Howard, SF. www.tank18.com). It’s one of the best deals in town: for $29, you get Four Barrel coffee, popovers and honey butter, shaved melon and tarragon foam, frisée and asparagus salad with poached egg and uni vinaigrette, spicy pickled fennel and cauliflower, slow-roasted lamb with couscous, and a seasonal dessert. Whooosh! For another $20, you can add on wine pairings (hic). And no, with those prices, gratuity is not included. Get tickets at www.tinyurl.com/easterbiteme.

Cotogna (490 Pacific, SF. www.cotognasf.com) will be hosting a special Easter brunch 11:30am–2pm, serving some traditional Italian dishes (or you can come for Easter supper, served in the evening for $65).

Foreign Cinema (2534 Mission, SF. www.foreigncinema.com) is a classic spot for a swell brunch, and Easter will ramp things up with a $65 prix-fixe menu — three courses — and a children’s menu for $20. Something for the kids!

Marcia Gagliardi is the founder of the weekly tablehopper e-column; subscribe for more at www.tablehopper.com. Get her app: Tablehopper’s Top Late-Night Eats. On Twitter: @tablehopper.

Opa!

Michael Redmond

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April 8, 2014

1

BRUNCHTASTIC

Our city is showing no signs of slowing down with new late-morning options. What can I say, we’re obviously a city that likes to stumble out to brunch! Last week, I clued you in to the brand new brunch service at the stylish and very delicious Verbena (2323 Polk St., SF. www.verbenasf.com) in Russian Hill. Now, the full menu has been released, and it’s a doozy. On the eggy tip, there’s a fried egg sandwich; a spin on the restaurant’s broccoli and cheddar dish with soft-cooked eggs; a pork trotter terrine with fried quail eggs and chile oil, and poached eggs with duck ragout and peas. Or you can get sourdough pancakes and French toast. Hope for an outdoor table, while a brunch cocktail (made with good, real booze!) is a sure thing. 11am–2:30pm.

If you’re in the Marina, Café Claude Marina (2120 Greenwich St., SF. www.cafeclaude.com) is a cute option for weekend brunch, with a bistro-style menu offering classic French croque madames and croque monsieurs. And just to mix things up, there’s a savoyard with bacon, béchamel, tomato, and greens. More classics like pain perdu and omelets fill the bill, although sometimes all you need is a burger — get a fried egg on it, bien sur.

BALLIN’ ON A BUDGET

Newly open this week in Hayes Valley is Souvla (517 Hayes, SF. www.souvlasf.com), whose owner is nobly trying to bring some awesome souvlaki to our city. Greasy late-night street meat, this is not. Of course there’s a California spin on the ingredients: The lamb shoulder is local — and wait until you taste it all covered in a harissa-spiked yogurt, nestled into a soft and pillowy pita — and the chicken, also off the spit, is Rocky Jr. and super juicy, topped with “Granch” dressing with fennel and citrus salad, pickled red onion, pea shoots, and mizithra cheese tucked inside.

Pork shoulder souvlaki with feta and cherry tomatoes will please any carnivore. And vegetarians, you can get a roasted white sweet potato version. No matter what, everyone has to get the Greek fries, lemony and oh so savory. Dessert is all about frozen yogurt with baklava crumbles and syrup, along with four other toppings too. There are also a variety of Greek wines and beers, cheers. The space was previously intimate Japanese restaurant Sebo, but now it’s all sunny and light, with lots of tile, and white and grey metal stools. Grab a seat at the communal table, the high-top tables, or bar in the back, or perch at the indoor-outdoor bar at the front, perfect for our warmer days. Hours are Tue–Sun 11am–10pm.

Okay, so not only is Off the Grid back at Fort Mason (Fort Mason Center, 2 Marina Blvd., SF. www.offthegridsf.com) on Fridays, but its events at the Presidio have also returned. If you’re a daytime picnic fan, you’ll want to experience Picnic at the Presidio (11am–4pm). Food trucks and food stands representing local eateries — Wise Sons, Sugarfoot Grits, Cholita Linda — have everything you need for a tasty lunch. Order adult beverages like Bloody Marys and Kentucky Mules that you can enjoy “blanket-side.” And after you start getting your swerve on, maybe it’s time to play some bocce or horseshoes. There are also cornhole tournaments, a DJ, and you can even purchase a sweater if Karl the Fog shows up at the party.

On Thursday evenings, don’t miss Twilight at the Presidio (Main Parade Ground, Lincoln Blvd. at Montgomery, the Presidio), 5pm–9pm, with lantern-lit cabanas, fire pits and Adirondack chairs, live music, a gorgeous sunset view, and cocktails. Yeah, if you’re looking for a spot for a perfect date, this is pretty damn choice. There are 10 trucks rotating biweekly, including El Sur, Red Sauce Meatballs, and The Chairman — and you can even have waited service at your cabana or fire pit.

Marcia Gagliardi is the founder of the weekly tablehopper e-column; subscribe for more at www.tablehopper.com. Get her app: Tablehopper’s Top Late-Night Eats. On Twitter: @tablehopper.

Where to eat right now

Michael Redmond

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April 1, 2014

0

culture@sfbg.com

TABLEHOPPING If we were finance people, we’d say Q1 of 2014 was a hella strong start to the year. But since we’re food people, we’re just going to hook you up with our version of a PowerPoint slideshow of all the latest openings, hot spots, and new dish faves. Please, leave your Google Glass at home, turn off your iPhone flash when taking food pics for Instagram, and just dig in.

WHAT’S THAT? I CAN’T HEAR YOU OVER THE BUZZ

Any of you SF old-timers will remember how nuts it was when Blowfish and Tokyo Go Go opened in the city. Yeah, both those places were bonkers. Well, the new incarnation of ICHI Sushi and NI Bar (3282 Mission, SF. www.ichisushi.com) in Bernal is registering on the same Richter scale, with hip-hop blasting, hour-plus waits at the sushi bar — on a Tuesday! — and crazy-delicious izakaya dishes, like miso asari clams (you will want to drink the entire bowl of porky and garlicky broth, trust) and ICHI’s famed yuzu-fried chicken wings. Why have spinach gomae when you can have asparagus gomae? Exactly. And deep-fried ocean trout in dashi is the best of both worlds: beautiful sushi-grade fish with a homey and belly-filling presentation. Be sure to try the ICHIBIER, a partnership with local brewer Almanac: It’s a shiso-yuzu ale that’s built for lather, rinse, repeat.

YOU HAVE TO BE HOT TO WORK HERE

Well, that’s not exactly true, but it sure seems that way at the new Valencia Street digs of Loló (974 Valencia, SF. www.lolosf.com). When you’re not busy ogling the darling servers, the caliente bartenders making you mezcal-y cocktails, or the cute clientele, the menu will also be winking at you with sabrosito dishes like fried-in-panko avocado tacos (you gotta get ’em!), smoky and juicy gorditas with mezcal barbecue beef, and the tuna tacon with seared albacore and a shellfish aioli. Ay, papi. The megawatt interior provides all kinds of color therapy — you’ll definitely leave even happier than you were when you arrived, for a multitude of reasons.

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A classic Margherita pizza at Il Casaro

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THE NEXT GREAT HAWT BRUNCH

Have you hit Verbena (2323 Polk, SF. www.verbenarestaurant.com) yet on Russian Hill? What, you don’t like the sound of sourdough pancakes with maple butter, biscuits and herb sausage gravy with pepper vinegar, and poached eggs with braised duck ragout with peas and their leaves — plus excellent craft cocktails, handsome dining room decor, and an appealing wine list? Maybe the new brunch launching the weekend of April 5th is what’s going to get you to come visit. Really, you ought to experience the flavor-packed vittles from chef Sean Baker, also of beloved Gather in Berkeley.

IT’S OK TO DRINK YOUR DINNER (BUT REALLY, YOU SHOULD EAT SOMETHING, TOO)

You may be inspired to simply hit the sauce once you look over the thirst-inducing drink lists at Trou Normand (140 New Montgomery, SF. www.trounormandsf.com) and The Coachman (1148 Mission, SF. www.coachmansf.com), both new joints in SoMa with exceptional cocktail pedigrees. But that would be a mistake, because you would miss the beef tartare topped fried smelt at The Coachman, or the charcuterie plate and the honking pork chop at Trou Normand. You can still down a whiskey-laced Calvados cocktail at Trou, or let ye olde Coachman’s barkeeps fix you up a sherry cobbler or three. Just do it all. More is more.

PIZZA! PIZZA! PIZZA! OH, AND PIZZA.

Just because our city likes to prove that you can never have enough pizza, here are four more pizza outposts for you, starting with another place for a legit Neapolitan-style pizza: Il Casaro (348 Columbus, SF. www.ilcasarosf.com). Since casaro means “cheesemaker,” you should dive into the raspa dura, a cheese shaved off its wheel and served in a cone. Plus there’s housemade fior di latte mozzarella, pure heaven. Looking for something new to North Beach? Try the panuozzo, a pizza dough sandwich. Sounds good, huh!

Pizza lovers are making the pilgrimage to La Lengua to sink their choppers into the pies by Jeff Krupman at PizzaHacker (3299 Mission, SF. www.thepizzahacker.com). A good place to start? The Yo Vinny (marinated onions, Mama Lil’s pickled goat horn peppers, 4505 hot Italian sausage, tomato sauce, mozzarella). The arugula pie with lemon, chile paste, and garlic is also big on flavor. Grab a seat and share a slice with some strangers at indoor picnic tables. Drink beer. Good times.

Another quest-worthy pie can be found in Dogpatch at Long Bridge Pizza Company (2347 Third St, SF. www.longbridgepizza.com), whose pizzas are a little bit New York and a little bit Neapolitan in style. Pile on the toppings with a Loading Dock, or go tomato-less with a White Pie. Small or large — wait, scratch that, isn’t the answer always large?

The Mission has a new slice shop, and it’s definitely not one of those nasty places you so often find around town claiming to be the best. (Like, the best of the worst at 1am, maybe.) Anyway, swing by The Pizza Shop (3104 24th St, SF. 824-1840) for a $4 slice or $19 whole pie. Thin crust, yes! Check out the white spinach. Be impressed. And bring your cash.

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Cochon de lait po’boy at High Cotton Kitchen

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MEAT-SEEKERS, HUNT THESE DOWN

Not like we’re trying to exclude vegetarians here, but here are five meaty dishes that really have us sharpening our canines.

— There is some very special fried chicken and waffle (2-piece plus side, $9.25) action for brunch — and that’s all-day brunch during the weekend, people! — at soul food respite Little Skillet’s expansion into the kitchen of Victory Hall & Parlor (330 Ritch, SF. www.victoryhallsf.com). Cocktails too. Fun.

— The $6.95 El Frijolazo hot dog at Los Shucos Latin Hot Dogs (3224 1/2 22nd St, www.losshucos.com) is gonna be your next bad habit. A toasty bun comes with a bacon-wrapped frank, refried beans, smashed avocado, mayo, imported salsa chapina (a green sauce from Guatemala), and queso fresco. WHAT?! Ridiculous!

— The $8 housemade chorizo burger — with a runny fried egg, oh you know it — at New Central Café (301 S. Van Ness, SF. 722-0601) is great for breakfast, lunch, brunch, whenever. Plus it comes with sautéed kale, roasted squash, and cilantro mayo, and you get sweet potato fries. Sweet.

— The $9 cochon de lait po’boy at High Cotton Kitchen thrills at Second Act Marketplace (1727 Haight, SF. www.secondactsf.com). Juicy, mustardy, drippy, messy as hell. And made by a legit New Orleans native, which means it’s big enough to share. (Really, you should.)

— The $5 bacon Twix at Pinkie’s Bakery (1196 Folsom, SF. www.pinkiesbakery.com) is also on this list. I was lucky to work with owner Cheryl Burr on this custom-treat twist for a special promotion, and now she’s offering these bad boys for sale. Dare we say they’re better than the original? We dare!

THE LATE-NIGHT BERMUDA TRIANGLE

We often complain that San Francisco shuts down too early — but, in fact, we’re the ones who can’t stay up. So many restaurants open with the noble intention of wanting to feed us late into the night. But six weeks after opening and seeing too many empty tables at midnight, well, they start rolling back the kitchen hours to 10pm. Unless. We. Support. Them. So here are three new spots serving up post-midnight snacks. Do your civic duty and hit them up after bar time. (And hey, if you’re a night owl, you should download my app, Tablehopper’s Top Late-Night Eats, ya heard?)

SHE’S A VERY KIN KHAO GIRL

Pim Techamuanvivit’s Kin Khao (55 Cyril Magnin, SF. www.kinkhao.com) a very unique Thai place — how often do you get Devil’s Gulch Ranch rabbit in your handmade green curry? But it also boasts late-night bites, 11pm–1am, and a full bar, with a cocktail list created by the Bon Vivants. Try the Thai chili-spiced Priew Wan Sour or the mezcal-kicked Kafe Mao if you need a little boost. Don’t miss the pretty hot wings, the kua kling ribs (fried pork ribs in a dark and spicy dry rub, you do the math), Dungeness crab rice noodles that will make you give up pad Thai forever, and the beautiful yum yai salad with tempura asparagus and chili jam. Bonus tip: the restaurant is just blocks from ACT, making it a perfect pre– and post–theater stop — go see Venus in Fur, right now.

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Yum Yai salad at Kin Khao

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HIGH LIFE

It’s not like we ever get tired of the late-night hours of our beloved Zuni, but just a few blocks down Market Street is Alta CA (1420 Market, SF. www.altaca.co), a new-ish NorCal bistro from the Daniel Patterson Group. It opened in December, with a kitchen serving until 1am. Chef de cuisine Yoni Levy’s housemade bialy and pastrami, a mighty-fine burger, and the much-lauded cracked wheat porridge with mushrooms are as awesome at 11:30pm as they are at lunch, when you’ll probably have some Twitter folks (the HQ is kitty corner) and City Hall types filling the room. Late night draws more of an industry crowd (der). It’s a handsome space with a horseshoe bar, where you can get your craft cocktail on too. Winos, you’ll be happy here as well.

CIRCLE GETS A SQUARE

North Beach is usually where the wheels come off the proverbial party bus. (Girls! Girls! Girls! Drinks! Drinks! Drinks!) Fortunately, there are a number of tasty places that can catch you before you fall (Comstock Saloon and Golden Boy Pizza, I’m looking at you). But there’s a brand-new kid on Washington Square, appropriately called The Square (1707 Powell, SF. www.thesquaresf.com), with a bit of a pedigree: The owners are behind lauded Sons and Daughters. Unlike that upscale restaurant, this lovely spot is less about tweezer food and more about shareable, satisfying fare, like gougères, steak tartare, an aged cheddar cheeseburger, and some large-format feasting: whole roasted crab and guinea hen, a delectable rack of ribs. Manly! Cocktails, check. All until 1am Wed—Sun.

Marcia Gagliardi is the founder of the weekly tablehopper e-column: Subscribe for more at www.tablehopper.com. Get her app: Tablehopper’s Top Late-Night Eats. On Twitter: @tablehopper.

Spammy fries for all!

Michael Redmond

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March 25, 2014

18

CHOW NOW

Some interesting openings this week, starting with Trou Normand (140 New Montgomery, SF. www.trounormandsf.com), inside the historic Pacific Telephone Building in SoMa. It’s from Thad Vogler of Bar Agricole, so yeah, there will be awesome booze there. And good ice. Cocktails include Armagnac, Cognac, and Calvados. (Be prepared to throw back a traditional shot of Calvados, a French brandy, in preparation for or during a big meal to “make room” with “a Norman hole” — hence the name, Trou Normand).

It will eventually be an all-day affair, so you’ll be able to swing by whenever for breakfast, lunch, and dinner — but just dinner for now, hold up. The menu includes many meaty items, ranging from caraway sausage to housemade charcuterie by chef Salvatore Cracco, plus polenta, white wine–braised artichokes, and other vegetable dishes, because it’s not good to just have meat all the time, you know. The Deco space is so stylish, with lots of custom artistic touches (all the art on the walls is by women artists), incredibly tall windows, reclaimed marble for the tables and bar, dark oak floors, and tufted booths the color of tobacco. How’d we get so lucky to have this space? Seriously. It’s a sexy one.

North Beach has a new neighborhood spot for Neapolitan-style pizza, Il Casaro (348 Columbus, SF. www.ilcasarosf.com), and some bona fide Italians opened it: chef Francesco Covucci and Peter Fazio, who are also behind the nearby Vicoletto. Casaro means “cheesemaker,” so there is definitely some dairy in the casa, including the rarely seen raspa dura, a cow’s milk cheese (young Lodigiano) that is shaved off the wheel and then served in a cone. Cheese cone, hell yes.

There’s also housemade fior di latte mozzarella, burrata, and a menu full of “cibo da strada,” the late-night street food you find in Italy (think arancini and crocchette). Plus there’s the sure-to-be-awesome panuozzo: pizza dough sandwiches stuffed with broccoli rabe, Italian sausage, and scamorza, or one with ground pork, pepe rosso, fennel seed, and french fries (the best late-night eats, that panuozzo). As for the pizzas you’ll see coming out of the wood-fired Stefano Ferrara oven, they’re made by a pro pizzaiolo, and feature classic Italian toppings ($12–$18). No need for pastas here, but you’ll find plenty of Italian wines. Say cin cin Sun–Thu 12pm–11pm and Fri–Sat 12pm–12am.

Craft beer (we’re talking 43 on tap). Deep-fried Monte Cristo sandwiches. An adventurous location. The cobwebs of the former and looong-vacant Fulton Street Bar have been blown away to make room for Barrelhead Brewhouse (1785 Fulton, SF. www.barrelheadsf.com), a brewery and restaurant from owner-brewer Ivan Hopkinson, previously assistant brewmaster at Park Chalet. Check out a sleek mezzanine, a honking torpedo that holds all the taps, and a bunch of brewing equipment (soon actually brewing, but not just yet). Stoners will appreciate a fun touch: quirky items embedded in the lacquer on the reclaimed wood slabs. The kitchen plans to stay open nightly until 1:30am, pretty damn cool, that. (Chef Tim Tattan was previously sous chef at Monk’s Kettle).

BALLIN’ ON A BUDGET

Anyone wistful for a little taste of Hawaii will want to scoot on over to the to-go window at Butterfly on the Embarcadero for their next lunch. The window is now Sammy’s Aloha (Pier 33, The Embarcadero at Bay, 415-864-8999), with Sammy Kong Kee stuffing the awesome housemade milk buns with kalua-style pork and BBQ chicken (just $8). Rice bowls in effect (ahi poke and loco moco), noodle bowls, salads, bao… And whoa, the Spammy Fries ($5) come with fried sushi rice and salmon roe. All the ingredients are quality, and nothing’s over $11. Mahalo. Open Tue–Sun (11am–3pm).

Marcia Gagliardi is the founder of the weekly tablehopper e-column, www.tablehopper.com. Get her app: Tablehopper’s Top Late-Night Eats. On Twitter: @tablehopper.

Brunch me

Michael Redmond

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March 18, 2014

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TABLEHOPPER New spots to hop out of bed for, Monday pizza at The Mill, and Off the Grid’s TGIF fiesta.

BRUNCHTASTIC

Since there always seems to be a line at every single place that serves brunch in this town, why not introduce more options? Exactly. If you’re already a fan of Little Chihuahua‘s multiple locations (www.thelittlechihuahua.com), you should know it has started serving weekend brunch, taking care of you with breakfast tacos, stacked enchiladas, Mexican French toast, and chile rellenos, plus you can sip Sightglass coffee or mimosas (why not get both?). Through March, you’ll score a free coffee or mimosa when you order any brunch dish at the Valencia Street location. Buenos dias, indeed.

Over in Cole Valley, Padrecito (901 Cole, SF. www.padrecitosf.com) is serving brunch Fri-Sun 11am–2:30pm. Yeah, you saw that right: Friday brunch! Perfect for when you want to play hooky. (We won’t tell your boss, promise.) Dishes include chilaquiles, sopes de machaca with brisket and eggs, a quesadilla with bacon and cheese, or hen-of-the-woods mushrooms and nettles, and more. Best of all, there’s a full bar with some tasty brunch cocktails. Chipotle Mary, anyone?

Also on the weekday brunch tip, Namu Gaji (499 Dolores St., SF. www.namusf.com) is now serving brunch Wed–Fri 11:30am-4pm and Sat–Sun 10:30am–4pm. You can wake and bake and stuff yourself with loco moco or kimchi fried rice, or holla at some challah French toast. On the liquid side, Bloody Marys, micheladas, and more hit the spot.

Maybe you just want to grab a bite of something and head back home to your comfy bed (hopefully with a cutie still in it)? You have to pay a visit to the window at Marla Bakery Kitchen Communal (613 York, SF. www.marlabakery.com). A number of options are available, including an insanely good bacon brittle doughnut from A Spoonful of Sugar. Bagels with farmer’s cheese or English muffin sandwiches, made in-house by Marla Bakery itself also delight. (A spring-inspired muffin came with fava leaf pesto, Mornay sauce, white cheddar, bacon, and a fried egg.) There’s also coffee from Wrecking Ball to enjoy on your walk home. Or go find a spot for a picnic — a friend and I scooted off to the tables on the waterfront by The Ramp, perfecto.

BALLIN’ ON A BUDGET

Off the Grid is back at Fort Mason (Fort Mason Center, 2 Marina Blvd., SF. www.offthegridsf.com) on Fridays, which means you have more than 30 trucks and vendors to choose from for your dinner, from Azalina’s Malaysian and El Sur to the ever-rockin’ Lobsta Truck. Go with a few friends so you can share bites and try more that way (and have someone with whom to strategize ways of negotiating some of the longer lines). A few ways to keep warm, besides wearing a jacket: There’s a heated area where you can hang out, with wine on tap, beers from Magnolia, and cocktails from The Alembic. Maybe playing some classic carnival games will help you get even toastier, like Whack-a-Mole and Skee-Ball. Fridays 5pm–11pm.

Anyone who loves bread, especially in the form of pizza, is going to want to check out the new pizza nights on Mondays by bread pusher Josey Baker at The Mill (736 Divisadero, SF. www.themillsf.com). The slice is like a perfect mash-up of pizza and artisan bread, all hearty and chewy in the best way possible. You can get a slice ($2.50) or a whole pie ($20), and there’s a new parklet out front where you can enjoy it. Each Monday features a different topping: March 24 is spicy broccoli, and March 31 is leek and potato. Pies start flying from the oven at 6pm, and can run out by 8pm, so don’t lag.

Marcia Gagliardi is the founder of the weekly tablehopper e-column, www.tablehopper.com. Get her app: Tablehopper’s Top Late-Night Eats. On Twitter: @tablehopper.

Healdsburg hop

Michael Redmond

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March 11, 2014

1

culture@sfbg.com

TABLEHOPPING Not only is the Healdsburg area so damn beautiful (I’m talking about you, Dry Creek and Alexander Valleys) but there are some pretty fab dining and drinking options — and deals in the winter off season. There’s always something new happening up there, so let’s start planning your next overnighter.

One of the biggest projects to open recently is the ambitious SHED (25 North St, Healdsburg. www.healdsburgshed.com), an almost 10,000-square-foot space with a market, café, and event center upstairs with a big kitchen. You can dine outside on the front or side patio, or just get a glass of wine from the tap list. Kombucha and kefir also come on tap, and the Home Farm peach-Champagne vinegar shrub cocktail is a dream. Yeah, it’s all so homesteady.

The owners (Cindy Daniel and Doug Lipton) also have the 16-acre Home Farm in Dry Creek Valley, so the menu’s ingredients are peak-of-season. For lunch, I had a delicious salad with three kinds of squash spiked with cumin, herbed barley, tahini-yogurt dressing, cilantro, and sesame seeds. I returned for breakfast on the go before I had to head back to SF, picking up a cappuccino (beans from the local roaster Flying Goat), a house-baked kouign amann, and I was happy to score some pastured eggs to bring home. It’s a fun place to browse, offering house-milled flours, unique products like sorghum, beautiful knives, and pottery, and be sure to check the schedule for cool events with guest chefs and talks.

Now that springy weather is here, I’m looking forward to hanging out again on the back patio of Bravas Bar de Tapas (420 Center, Healdsburg. www.starkrestaurants.com/bravas.html) and pretending I’m in Barcelona, drinking a killer gin and tonic, and cruising my way through the tapas menu — like salmorejo, a plate of sliced-to-order Fermin jamón Ibérico, and pan tomate.

You could do like the tablehopper does and start your night at Bravas, and then amble on over to Pizzando (301 Healdsburg Ave, Healdsburg. www.pizzandohealdsburg.com) for a salad and one of my favorite dishes in the area: crispy chicken legs. Chef Louis Maldonado brines the legs and then cooks them like Korean fried chicken, with a nice bit of heat. If you live for fried chicken, you’ll want to check these out. There are also some creative pizzas that come out of the wood-fired oven (um, hi, porchetta pizza).

Another place firing up an array of tasty pizzas is Campo Fina (330 Healdsburg Ave, Healdsburg. www.campofina.com), which also sports a bocce ball court in the back, a hit with the locals (who have teams!). The menu skews Italian — the owners are also behind nearby Scopa — with hearty dishes, including famed meatballs, tomato-braised tripe, grilled lamb chops, and popular honey-roasted carrots. The cocktails are good, and it’s a fun place to hang out.

When I’m in the area, I find it hard to pass up a chance to dine at Dino Bugica’s Diavola (21021 Geyserville Ave, Geyserville. www.diavolapizzeria.com) in nearby Geyserville. Not only are his pizzas completely destination-worthy, but his salumi is excellent. Love the farm-fresh salads and seasonal vegetables, and the pastas also rule. Diavola’s got a great, warm atmosphere as well — it’s a good place to take in the Geyserville scene.

As for where to stay, if your budget allows (or maybe you’re there mid-week), h2hotel (219 Healdsburg Ave, Healdsburg. www.h2hotel.com) is the spot. It has a natural-modern style, and is very eco (it’s LEED-certified). See if you can get a room with a deep Japanese-style soaking tubs. There’s a solar-heated pool in the back, and the downstairs bar (Spoonbar) is tops — you can just stumble upstairs to bed when it’s time to call it a night.

There are plenty of shops to browse — cute vintage shop Seahoney is a must — and tasting rooms dot the town: The new Cartograph (340 Center, Healdsburg. www.cartographwines.com) features some nice, cool climate pinots, and the food and wine pairings at Partake by K-J (241 Healdsburg Ave, Healdsburg. www.partakebykj.com) highlight produce sourced from its own farm and are really well thought-out, enough so to squelch any suspicion that you’re just getting a run-of-the-mill touristy experience.

Last tip: Be sure to grab a donut-muffin from Downtown Bakery & Creamery (308A Center, Healdsburg. www.downtownbakery.net), a perfect companion for wine-tasting jaunts.

Marcia Gagliardi is the founder of the weekly tablehopper e-column: subscribe for more at www.tablehopper.com. Get her app: Tablehopper’s Top Late-Night Eats. On Twitter: @tablehopper.

Modern English

Michael Redmond

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March 4, 2014

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culture@sfbg.com

CHOW NOW

People who consider themselves fans of prime rib (raises hand) will probably want to check out the version that’s being made at Charles Phan’s brand-new restaurant, The Coachman (1148 Mission, SF. www.coachmansf.com), now open in the former Heaven’s Dog space in SoMa. Nope, no more Chinese food in that location, and Phan’s not doing Vietnamese either.

The menu is actually inspired by English classics done right (long story), but being in California means there’s going to be a seasonal bent too. The family-style menu includes lamb sweetbreads with mint ($12), potted crab ($14), a tasty beef tartare topped fried smelt ($14), carrots, lentils, and parsley dill sauce with smoked date jam ($14). About that prime rib ($26): It’s cooked in a salt crust for eight hours, and comes with a bone marrow jus and horseradish cream (oh yeah).

Chef de cuisine Ross Wunderlich was brought over from one of Phan’s other restaurants, Hard Water. The space was given a bit of an update, but the look isn’t particularly of note. (Plus side: no tacky pub décor.) Besides, you’ll be more focused on the cocktail menu from Erik Adkins, which highlights punches, cups, cobblers, and some farmhouse and rural drinks. You can even have your drink served in a hunting flask — order the Robert Burns’ Hunting Flask for a maximum ye olde adult beverage experience, or order one of two cask-conditioned ales to go with your dinner.

The former Washington Square Bar & Grill, and recently Bottle Cap, is now The Square (1707 Powell, SF. www.thesquaresf.com), from the Sons & Daughters duo, Teague Moriarty and Matt McNamara. This is not their usual composed cuisine style — think American dishes like a kale with ricotta salata, grilled bavette steak, whole roasted crab, a rack of baby back ribs (for two!), and a burger.

The menu ranges from bar snacks to bigger plates ($7–$24). The late hours (Wed–Sun until 1am) are a bonus, and there’s a full bar, with twists on classics like the 7 ‘n’ 7. Plenty of Cali and European wines as well. The 90-seat space is handsome, with a bar, communal table, and plenty of spots saved for walk-ins, so feel free to swing on by.

GET PERKY

A couple new coffee spots have opened, starting with the latest location of Sightglass Coffee (3014 20th St., SF. www.sightglasscoffee.com), right next to Central Kitchen and Trick Dog. What’s interesting is it’s operating more like a roastery focused on micro batches: All the coffee served there is roasted in-house, and it’s the only place where you can get those beans (like the Jerboa’s Jump espresso). It has a great vintage look, with warm globe lights, tobacco leather banquettes, marble-topped counters, and touches of a Deco aesthetic throughout. There are some killer baked goods from Piccino, b. Patisserie, and Neighbor Bakehouse, with a bunch of savory options. Hours are Mon-Sat 7am–8pm, Sun 8am–8pm.

There’s a lot of buzz (har) about the latest location of Réveille Coffee (4076 18th St., www.reveillecoffee.com) in the Castro, another coffee-related biz by two brothers, Tommy and Christopher Newbury. There’s a sweet front patio (great people watching or cruising, whatever you’re up to), and the interior has an appealing design that’s clean and upbeat. People are reportedly digging the savory options, from breakfast goods like bull’s-eye breakfast sandwiches (served until a very generous 1pm) to flatbreads, salads, and sandwiches for lunch and into the evening. Open 7am–9pm daily.

BALLIN’ ON A BUDGET

Hot dogs. A bunch of us enjoy our fair share of bacon-covered Mission treats (depends on how much and how late you go out), but there’s a new dog in town: Los Shucos Latin Hot Dogs (3224 1/2 22nd St., www.losshucos.com), from Guatemalan owner Sofia Keck. These street-style puppies are more like a torta, with a griddled bun, your choice of bacon-wrapped sausage or handmade chorizo (they are currently trying to source a vegetarian option), avocado, and imported salsa chapina, a green sauce from Guatemala. Toppings include refried black beans, queso fresco, and scrambled eggs. The dogs range from $5.95 to $7.95, and are as hefty as they are tasty. Woof. Open Sun–Wed 11am–10pm and Thu–Sat 11am–2am.

Marcia Gagliardi is the founder of the weekly tablehopper e-column; subscribe for more at www.tablehopper.com. Get her app: Tablehopper’s Top Late-Night Eats. On Twitter: @tablehopper.

Hot! New! Live!

Michael Redmond

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February 25, 2014

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There are a bunch of new openings to cover this week, starting with the new location of ICHI Sushi and NI Bar (3282 Mission, SF. www.ichisushi.com) in Bernal, which is double the size of ICHI’s previous spot — and looking very spiffy. You’ll find a 30-seat sushi counter in the front along with some table seating, plus an omakase counter, which will be reservation only. In the back is the Ni Bar, offering a new menu of izakaya-style dishes and snacks (which includes chef Tim Archuleta’s chicken wings, have you ever had them?), with plenty of sake, shochu, wine, and beer to help get your heat on. Have fun checking out the mural of sushi rules, like don’t use too much soy sauce, if any at all, but you knew that.

Now open in downtown SF is Kin Khao (55 Cyril Magnin, SF. www.kinkhao.com), a 75-seat Thai restaurant in the Parc 55 from Pim Techamuanvivit of Chez Pim fame, with chef de cuisine Michael Gaines (Manresa, Central Kitchen), who has been cooking Thai food with Pim for the past year. Look for authentic dishes made with high-quality and local ingredients and many handmade touches, from the XO sauce to the curries. The menu will make you want to over-order, with dishes like “pretty hot” wings, chilli jam clams with pork belly, chicken fat rice, Dungeness crabmeat and rice noodles in a sauce made with crab fat (yup, more fat!) and seasonal leaf and root vegetables in som sour curry broth with tamarind and fresh red chili. Boom. There’s also a full bar, with cocktails created by the Bon Vivants. Dinner is served nightly 5:30pm–11pm, and lunch is 11am–3:30pm. The bar will open at 5pm for cocktails, and look for late-night bar bites to launch in a few weeks.

There’s a new spot for coffee, café bites, and a rotating schedule of pop-ups at the new Mélange Market (3153 17th St, SF. www.facebook.com/melangemarket) in the ODC building in the Mission. The project is from the AQ team, which includes AQ’s former pastry chef, Maya Erickson. Order your De La Paz coffee along with housemade English muffins for breakfast, while lunch means sandwiches and salads. Fridays has Joshua Wilder Oakley of Tango & Stache popping up with his boozy tacos, like Campari-braised pork belly ones, and salads. Hours are Mon–Fri 8:30am–6pm and Sat 9am–6pm, as well as during ODC performances.

A doughnut pop-up? Uh huh. On Sundays 1pm–6pm, swing by newish bar Beaux (2344 Market, SF.) in the Castro for custom doughnuts by Brian Christie and Reilly Meehan of Bespoke Doughnuts (www.facebook.com/bespokedoughnuts), like lemon and thyme, or another with duck confit, apple, and Roquefort. No, you won’t find chocolate sprinkles, but you will find horchata. And drinks!

It’s almost another month, which means there are even more places to get pizza (the high tide of tomato sauce throughout the city continues). Over in Dogpatch, there’s Long Bridge Pizza Company (2347 Third St, SF. www.longbridgepizza.com), serving a hybrid New York and Neapolitan style, with four options for now: margherita, sausage, a white pie, and pepperoni. Get yourself a small or large, either to go or at one of the tables. Stuff your pie hole. Hours are Mon–Fri 11am–9pm and Sat 12pm–10pm.

And in the Mission, there’s a new and casual joint called Pizza Shop (3104 24th St, SF. 415-824-1840), slinging pies by the slice ($4) or whole ($19, $2 per additional topping). The owner is Thomas Jividen, previously at Bronx Pizza in San Diego, who partnered with Laurie Badger of Golden Boy Pizza (she is running front-of-house operations). Open daily 11am–10pm.

Marcia Gagliardi is the founder of the weekly tablehopper e-column: www.tablehopper.com. Get her app: Tablehopper’s Top Late-Night Eats. On Twitter: @tablehopper.

Up valley

Michael Redmond

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February 18, 2014

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culture@sfbg.com

TABLEHOPPING It’s time for another installment of wine country overnighters — perfect winter getaways without the crowds (and price surges)! Now we’re heading to historic St. Helena, which draws throngs of people to its charming main street of shops and restaurants. Downtown, however, has always been a little short on accommodations. The recently renovated Wydown Hotel (1320 Main St, St. Helena. www.wydownhotel.com) is changing that. This boutique hotel has 12 rooms, big fab beds, and a comfortable residential vibe that’s contemporary and stylish. (Try to get a luxury corner room if you can).

Then there’s always the nearby and stunning Meadowood (www.meadowood.com), the ultimate in luxury resort accommodations — if you can splurge — and its downtown sister property, Southbridge Napa Valley (1020 Main St, St. Helena, www.southbridgenapavalley.com), which is more affordable and has spa facilities. If you want something a little secluded from downtown, there’s the Wine Country Inn (1152 Lodi Lane, St. Helena. www.winecountryinn.com), a spacious property with beautiful vineyard views, although the look and feel can be a bit suburban.

After you check in, go for an amble down the main drag. You’ll want to pick up some handmade chocolates from Woodhouse Chocolate (1367 Main St., St. Helena. www.woodhousechocolate.com) which is styled like a jewelry shop. Pick up a single bite for yourself — pistachio for me! — or a box for later (like caramels with fleur de sel).

Thirsty? Always. You can visit the new Orin Swift tasting room (1325 Main St, St. Helena. www.orinswift.com) and taste a portfolio of full-bodied reds, a few whites, and China Doll rosé. If it’s a cocktail you crave, cheers, you can head to Goose & Gander (1245 Spring St, St. Helena. www.goosegander.com), which not only offers damn good cocktails thanks to bar star Scott Beattie, but there’s also a cozy basement bar to enjoy them in (a fun spot at the end of the night, with a killer burger). Farmstead at Long Meadow Ranch (738 Main St, St. Helena. www.longmeadowranch.com) also has a busy bar, and you can snack on cheddar cheese biscuits with your bevvie, plus other bar bites. Oh, and there’s a happy hour Mon–Fri 4pm–6pm.

It’s time for dinner. Head to La Condesa (1320 Main St, St. Helena. www.lacondesa.com/napa), an import from Austin which is rocking a new Mexico City-meets-Northern California menu from chef Chris Mortensen. (If you haven’t been here for a while, it’s time to give it another chance.) Once you have margaritas on your table, skip the guacamoles and go for the stellar tortilla soup and the fluke ceviche with potato, and mains like the juicy oak-grilled chicken, and the stuffed poblano chile (absolutely delicious, and vegetarian!). Dessert is all about the house-made ice creams — get a couple.

Other dinner options: drinks and bites at Bar Terra (1345 Railroad Ave, St. Helena. www.terrarestaurant.com/BT) the more casual offshoot of Terra from Hiro Sone and Lissa Doumani of Ame here in SF, and the welcoming Cook (1310 Main St, St. Helena. www.cooksthelena.com), a local favorite for house-made pastas and hearty, seasonal mains. If it’s a steak you crave, the answer is Press (587 St. Helena Hwy, www.pressnapavalley.com), which also has a very deep wine cellar.

The next day, grab a coffee and hang with the locals at Napa Valley Coffee Roasters (1400 Oak Ave, St. Helena. www.napavalleycoffee.com). And then I recommend going for a walk in the vineyards — you’ll see plenty of neighbors out with their cute dogs. Your brunch should be on the terrace at French Blue (1429 Main St, St. Helena. www.frenchbluenapa.com), another place worth a revisit: There are new owners and a new chef. My brunch dish of oak-grilled trout with poached eggs and crisp rösti potatoes was smashing, ditto my mother’s eggs Benedict, which featured a light hand with the dill hollandaise. The meal made me want to head back for dinner soon.

Last tip: Before you hit the road, you’ll want to pick up some freshly made English muffins from Model Bakery (1357 Main St, St. Helena. www.themodelbakery.com), along with anything else that catches your eye in there. Be careful.

Marcia Gagliardi is the founder of weekly tablehopper e-column www.tablehopper.com. Get her app: Tablehopper’s Top Late-Night Eats. On Twitter: @tablehopper.

Going back to Cali

Michael Redmond

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February 11, 2014

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culture@sfbg.com

CHOW NOW

We finally have some gray skies, all the better to contrast the megawatt Technicolor interior of the new Loló (974 Valencia, SF. www.lolosf.com) location on Valencia. The larger digs, now sporting 65 seats, also boast two bars — mezcal lovers won’t want to miss the new nine-seat Agave Bar in the back.

Once you have a drink in your hand (like the Mezcal Mula, with pomegranate-infused tequila, mezcal, ginger beer, and bitters), start taking a closer look at the décor by Lorena Zertuche: Mmm-hmm, those really are men’s suit jackets stitched onto the back of a banquette, and yes, someone did in fact fold 1,000 origami boats for that wall. And no, you didn’t take acid about an hour ago. Then again, maybe you did.

I also love the leather belts stitched down the center of the bench seats, which are in fact pickup truck seats. Beep beep. Some new dishes on Jorge Martínez’s Jaliscan-Californian menu include Dungeness crab croquetas, oyster and pork chin confit sopes, and panko-encrusted avocado tacos. You have plenty of exploring to do. Hours are Mon–Thu 6pm–12am, and Fri–Sat 6pm–1am. Lunch and brunch service will launch in March.

Another opening in the Mission: Prubechu (2847 Mission, SF. www.facebook.com/prubechu) has taken over the former Roxy’s, highlighting traditional recipes from Guam, and of course there will be a California twist on a few dishes — like red rice with pork and broccolini, and golai hagan suni with spigarello, eggplant, sunchokes, turmeric, and coconut. Tue–Sat 5pm–10pm.

Green juice, beer and cheese or onion and potato piroshkis, tasty po’boys, cappuccino, garam masala spice, Beauty’s Bagels, some of the best damn carrot cake you’ve ever had … . The new Second Act Marketplace (1727 Haight, SF. www.secondactsf.com) has you covered. This warren of food stalls opened in the former Red Vic Movie House location, and now contains five individual businesses that are ready to feed and hydrate you. High Cotton Kitchen is the New Orleans-style lunch spot with Sightglass coffee, while Community Craft is a cooperative bakeshop consisting of nine bakers. And then there’s Anda Piroshki, RAW juice bar, and zesty goodies from Spice Hound. Extravaganza!

BALLIN’ ON A BUDGET

When was the last time you saw $1 organic coffee, or a chorizo burger for $8? There are some new folks in the kitchen of New Central Café (301 S. Van Ness, SF. 722-0601), and they want to make sure you’re well fed for $10 or less. You can also pick up a fresh-squeezed juice, and other healthy options, like the quesadilla California: a housemade tortilla stuffed with kale, butternut squash, sautéed onion, refried beans, fried sweet potato, and sour cream. Daily 7am–6pm.

Not far away, Rice Paper Scissors is now serving lunch Mon–Wed 11am–2pm at Brick and Mortar (1710 Mission, SF. www.ricepaperscissors.com). Look for pho, vegan curry, and more. Weekend brunch is coming soon.

Speaking of brunch, the next time you’re taking a Thursday off (way to hit it hard on a Wednesday night, you animal), you can now get your loco moco on at Namu Gaji (499 Dolores, SF. www.namusf.com) which has extended its brunch hours to Wed–Fri 11:30am–4pm and Sat–Sun 10:30am–4pm.

La Urbana (661 Divisadero, SF. www.laurbanasf.com) has a sweet taco Tuesday deal: every Tuesday in the Mercado (Urbana’s garage space next door), you can get two street-style tacos and a beer for $7; with a shot of house mezcal, it’s $10. Tasty trouble, that.

Have you ever had a Fryin’ Maiden or Notorious P.I.G.? If you’ve ordered the stoner comfort food from the Brass Knuckle (www.brassknucklesf.com) truck, then you should be familiar with chef Shellie Kitchen’s fun — and obviously music-inspired — menu. She just opened a brick-and-mortar location in the Tenderloin at 749 Larkin St., so you don’t need to chase the truck down when you want a Snoop Dog for lunch. Or Tots and the Maytals. Heh.

Marcia Gagliardi is the founder of the weekly tablehopper e-column; subscribe for more at www.tablehopper.com. Get her app: Tablehopper’s Top Late-Night Eats. On Twitter: @tablehopper.

Hit the road

Michael Redmond

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February 4, 2014

0

culture@sfbg.com

TABLEHOPPING Sometimes you just need to get out of town, and look at that, we have wine country right in our backyard. Winter and early spring are an ideal time to visit: there are fewer crowds and better room rates, and it’s easier to make reservations. I’ll be writing a few upcoming columns with ideas for swell overnight getaways, whether you want to escape with your sweetie or your best pal.

When exactly was the last time you stayed in downtown Napa? Exactly. Things are a-changin’. Check in to the Andaz Napa (1450 First St, Napa. napa.andaz.hyatt.com), which has a great central location, and while it’s a bit on the larger side, the hotel is aiming for boutique style. Go for one of the loft or terrace rooms if the price is right, and ask for a room that’s back-facing and not on First Street (it’ll be quieter). Plan on getting some sleep, because the beds are a pillowy dream. When warm summer temperatures are back, the terrace (complete with fire pits!) will be open for drinks and hanging out.

Book a reservation for dinner at the recently opened Torc (1140 Main, Napa. www.torcnapa.com) in the former Ubuntu. The handsome, spacious dining room contains 90 seats, with 17 at the bar. Chef-owner Sean O’Toole (Quince, Cotogna, Bardessono) is one hell of a cook: his menu spans both the inventive and the traditional, ranging from Bengali sweet potato pakoras with yogurt-truffle dip to a violet artichoke soup. The free-range chicken for two is a standout, and there are also some housemade pastas ($14–$19) you should strongly consider (remember, he has that Quince pedigree). Dessert is a must. The pastry chef, Elizabeth Gentry, is so talented (try the citrus-praline tart with lemon curd and smoked ganache).

If you desire a nightcap, you can head to Morimoto (610 Main St., Napa. www.morimotonapa.com) for what is usually a lively scene in the lounge and bar, or enjoy a digestivo or grappa at the small bar inside Oenotri (1425 First St, Napa. www.oenotri.com), conveniently within stumbling distance of the Andaz.

The next day, if you’re a biscuit lover, you’ll want to hit up the popular Napa Valley Biscuits (1502 Main, Napa. www.napavalleybiscuits.com), a Southern diner serving biscuit-y breakfasts that will hold you until dinner (and help soak up any extended wine tastings later in the day). There’s also fried chicken and waffles, or you can go for the Yardbird — fried chicken, bacon, and gravy sandwiched inside a biscuit. Uh huh.

The Thomas at Fagiani’s (813 Main, Napa. www.thethomas-napa.com) has a tasty, casual brunch — think corn pancakes, good egg dishes, and a quality Bloody Mary — and if the weather is nice, the rooftop terrace is where you want to be. When tomato season is back, the BLAT (bacon, lettuce, avocado, tomato sandwich) is tops.

Another option is to visit the Oxbow Public Market (644 First St, Napa

www.oxbowpublicmarket.com). Start the day with at the Ritual Coffee stand, and then take a seat at Ca’ Momi (www.camomi.com), an enoteca featuring dishes from all over Italy. Order the Ca’ Momi Ca’ Rosa Frizzante to go with the flatbread with lardo di Colonnata, a rare treat. Piadine (flatbread sandwiches) also rule, especially one with radicchio, prosciutto cotto, and creamy stracchino cheese filling.

Ca’ Momi’s blazing pizza oven cranks out about 20 kinds of pizza, from a classic (and certified) margherita to the Momi, with porchetta, taleggio, and caramelized onion. If the carbonara with egg and pancetta isn’t a perfect brunch pizza, I don’t know what is. Plus there are nine kinds of vegetarian pies for those on a healthier tip. If you’re in a lunchy mood, the pastas rock, like a northern Italian dish of spatzle allo speck with cream, or the decidedly Roman rigatoni con coda alla vaccinara (with oxtail, pinenuts, and soffrito). For dessert, get the bigné — cream puffs with a variety of fillings.

From there? Check out wine tasting rooms like Vintner’s Collective, 1313 Main, and Carpe Diem. The Culinary Institute of America is offering new Napa wine education classes at the CIA Wine Studies Annex in the former Copia, listed on www.localwineevents.com. Oh yeah, and there are always the Napa Premium Outlets if you’re in a shopping frame of mind. (Dangerous after wine tasting, btw).

Marcia Gagliardi is the founder of the weekly tablehopper e-column; subscribe for more at www.tablehopper.com. Get her app: Tablehopper’s Top Late-Night Eats. On Twitter: @tablehopper.

Horsing around

Michael Redmond

-

January 28, 2014

0

culture@sfbg.com

CHOW NOW

What’s that galloping sound? It’s the Year of the Horse, breaking away Fri/31! In honor of the Lunar New Year, you’ll find special menus all over town, with all kinds of symbolic dishes to help ensure you have a year of prosperity, long life, good health, and cash money. If you can get a posse together, head over to M.Y. China (Westfield Centre, 845 Market, Fourth floor, www.mychinasf.com) for its Chinese New Year banquet menu: you can go for the Fisherman’s Wharf ($388 for 5 people/ $688 for 10) or the Treasure Island ($488 for 5/ $888 for 10), with dishes like crazy-delicious jasmine tea–smoked sea bass, forbidden rice, and kung pao crab — or stir-fried lobster if you pony up, ha-ha, for the Treasure Island. Available Saturday January 25-Friday February 21.

Every time I dine at Butterfly (Pier 33, SF. www.butterflysf.com) for the Lunar New Year menu, I waddle out of there like a Peking duck. Chef-owner Rob Lam is completely bonkers for crab, so you’ll find a menu fully loaded with dishes like crab and fried uni hand rolls (uh huh), crab jook with a sous vide egg (trust, I want this more than once a year), orange chile crab, and more. The menu is $75, tax and tip not included, and runs from January 28 through the month of February.

More on the Vietnamese tip is the Lunar New Year brunch that the Rice Paper Scissors ladies are putting on Saturday February 1 at Brick and Mortar (1710 Mission, SF. www.ricepaperscissors.com). Start your day with steamed buns, pho, claypots, and mooncakes (of course). 11am–3pm, cash only.

The talented team at Delise Dessert Café (327 Bay, SF. www.delisesf.com) annually bake up Peking duck scones in honor of the lunar new year. You can pick some up over the next couple weeks, plus special treats like a black sesame macaron with red bean filling, along with honey-chrysanthemum ice cream and pomegranate oolong sorbet. YES.

BALLIN’ ON A BUDGET

Some pop-ups are better deals than others, especially when the cooks know what the hell they’re doing. That is definitely the case with Eddie Lau (behind the former Dux pop-up, The Summit, Poleng Lounge, Orson), who is hosting an upcoming dinner with Luis Villavelazquez (Les Éléments Patisserie) called Fortress: Solitude and San Francisco. They’ll be taking over 20th Century Café (198 Gough, SF.), a damn cute space in Hayes Valley, on Sunday February 9: take your pick of seatings at 6:30pm or 8:30pm. For $60 (gratuity included), you’ll get multiple courses of dishes like Dux poutine, vadouvan curry, and Dungeness on capellini, and there’s some tripe and chorizo on there too. Dessert wraps it all up with a black truffle, burnt cinnamon, and cocoa nib number. Plus you can get beverage pairings for $20. Tickets and more info at www.fortress-sf.com.

Comebacks can be so sweet, especially when it’s the locally beloved — especially by vegetarians — sandwich establishment, Estela’s (250 Fillmore, SF. 415-553-6068), which was displaced by that nasty fire in the Lower Haight in September of 2011. Just like its neighbor, Three Twins Ice Cream, Estela’s is back in biz and slinging hefty sammies. Hours are Mon–Thu 7am–5pm and Fri–Sat 7am–4pm.

Looking for a new pod o’ food trucks? During the week in SoMa, you’ll find G Food Lounge (431 2nd St, SF. www.gfoodlounge.com), complete with breakfast options –sweet! — seating at tables, free Wi-Fi, and comfy couches. How civilized. Trucks like Curry Up Now, Sunrise Deli, Doc’s of the Bay, and Frozen Kuhsterd are all in the mix. Please stand by, because beer and wine will be added soon. Hours are Mon–Fri 7am–9pm.

Marcia Gagliardi is the founder of the weekly tablehopper e-column; subscribe for more at www.tablehopper.com. Get her app: Tablehopper’s Top Late-Night Eats. On Twitter: @tablehopper.

The basics

Michael Redmond

-

January 21, 2014

0

culture@sfbg.com

BALLIN’ ON A BUDGET

This week features some smaller openings around town, plus new places to go for brunch, and, how charming, they’re not all gonna leave you broke. Besides, some of us self-employed types are still reeling from those pesky tax quarterlies that were just due, blergh.

Pizza-man-about-town Jeff Krupman (aka the PizzaHacker, known for his FrankenWeber mobile pizza oven) has pulled it on over and has been softly opening his first brick-and-mortar spot in La Lengua-Bernal, aptly named PizzaHacker (3299 Mission, SF. www.thepizzahacker.com). He’s keeping the menu pared down, with pies like a classic margherita, although some have fun names and ingredient combos like the Yo Vinny (with marinated onions, Mama Lil’s pickled goat horn peppers, 4505 hot Italian sausage, tomato sauce, mozzarella), and the Rocket Man (arugula, garlic, mozzarella, farm egg, lemon juice, chili paste).

For now, pizzas are $15 during the opening weeks — but the pricing may change a bit in the future, just FYI. There’s also a killer salad, check it out. The space is pretty bare bones, with seating at picnic tables or the bar. Yay, there’s local beer and wine too. It’s mostly open Thu–Sun at 5:30pm, but check out the schedule on the website or on Twitter (@pizzahacker) before heading over.

Downtown workers have a couple new options to add to their lunchtime mix, or for post-work dinnertime. It’s OK, we know your fridge is empty. First up, Bun Mee (650 Market, SF. www.bunmee.co) has opened a second location, with the same menu as the original location on Fillmore. You can order Vietnamese sandwiches (you have to try the sloppy bun, trust, and get an egg on it!), along with salads, and other items that are good for eating at your desk, like rice and noodle bowls. And get a coconut sandwich cookie, because hey, you’re worth it. Open daily 10:30am–9pm.

There’s no denying that the burgers at Super Duper are pretty fricking good — it’s all about the double patty action on the Super burger. You now have another location to hit up: The latest location to open is in the Financial District at 98 Mission (www.superdupersf.com). Hours are Mon–Fri 7am–8pm and Sat–Sun 11am–6pm.

You dig brunch? You’re a San Franciscan, of course you do. One new brunch service that was just added to our scene is on Saturdays at St. Vincent (1270 Valencia, SF. www.stvincentsf.com) in the Mission. Come by noon–3pm for an East Coast fave like scrapple with fried eggs, or a new-fangled rye waffle with mixed winter citrus, pecans, hickory syrup, and sour cream. Also very au courant SF: a variety of toast toppings on country bread, like cultured butter with persimmon jam. Oysters on the half shell, yep. And more wine and tasty beers than you’d know what to do with! Start with some coffee from Bicycle Coffee Co., however. Pace yourself.

Also in the Mission: the folks at Hi Lo (3416 19th St., SF. www.hilobbqsf.com) are serving Sunday brunch (11am–2:30pm), and this menu is not gonna let you be hungry for long. You’ll find some Southern-inspired numbers, like shrimp and grits with andouille sausage and chicken fried steak and eggs, plus classics like a Benedict with house-cured ham. Those looking for lighter choices — i.e. people on a January diet — can opt for house-smoked salmon on lavash or fruit with yogurt. Lemon-ricotta pancakes: always a win. There’s a selection of brunch cocktails, like a jerked Bloody Mary with pork fat–washed rye, Caribbean and house BBQ spice, heirloom tomato, and Youk’s hot sauce. Dude. There are also three “hair of the dog” shot specials for $7 for those who need some healing, stat. Woof.

Marcia Gagliardi is the founder of the weekly tablehopper e-column; subscribe for more at www.tablehopper.com. Get her app: Tablehopper’s Top Late-Night Eats. On Twitter: @tablehopper.

“V” for victory

Michael Redmond

-

January 14, 2014

0

culture@sfbg.com

CHOW NOW

Here we are, barely wiping the holiday cookie crumbs from our mouths, and there are already a slew of new places open to tempt us away from our green smoothies. Nice try, there, you little resolution-maker you.

One place that actually will still have you eating your vegetables is the new Verbena (2323 Polk, SF. www.verbenarestaurant.com) on Russian Hill. Chef Sean Baker of Gather in Berkeley has a menu that will usher in some major vegetarian-carnivore peaceful coexistence. You can choose from six different vegetable dishes — or go for some duck meatballs — and if you just come in for a cocktail or two, you’ll find small bites as well. The wine list demands some of your attention too, since Michael Ireland (French Laundry, Quince, Meadowood) is behind it. Yeah, dude knows wine. Dinner nightly.

Meet your new after-work local. And your new brunch spot. Now open in the former 330 Ritch in SoMa is Victory Hall & Parlor (330 Ritch, SF. www.victoryhallsf.com), from a couple ladies — Deanna Sison Foster of Little Skillet and farmerbrown and Mia Weedning of Mission Bowling Club and Mini Bar — who obviously know a thing or two about good eats, drinks, and times. There are a few communal seating areas, so go ahead and bring your posse. The bar menu has a bunch of creative craft cocktails to reel you in (you’ll find everything from kimchi to rhubarb listed as ingredients), and the menu o’ eats comes courtesy of alley-mate Little Skillet. Deviled eggs with crispy chicken skin and a crab and collard dip delight, while weekend brunch brings a big biscuit sandwich and fried chicken and waffles. Hubba. Dinner is coming up too. Just to be clear, lunch will still be available from Little Skillet in the alley Mon–Fri 10:30am–2:30pm, and then inside Victory Hall & Parlor after 4pm. All-day brunch on Sat–Sun starts at 10am.

Shout-out to Three Twins Ice Cream (254 Fillmore, SF. www.threetwinsicecream.com), which is back in business in the Lower Haight after a fire in September of 2011 put the SF scoop shop’s brick and mortar location out of business. It’s back with an icy vengeance: The case now has room for 12 ice cream flavors, and ice cream sandwiches sweeten the menu now.

Ramen hounds have a new spot to add to their list: LA-based Ramen Yamadaya (1728 Buchanan, SF. www.ramen-yamadaya.com) has opened its first SF location, right in Japantown (in the former Iroha, RIP). Yamadaya’s tonkotsu ramen is reportedly the business, and an LA friend tells me the kotteri ramen (with an extra-thick and rich broth) is another solid score. Closed Tuesdays.

BALLIN’ ON A BUDGET

North Beach has two strong and budget-minded options for you. First up, swing by Naked Lunch (504 Broadway, SF.) on Sunday evenings for pop-up Chao Mien by Sam Saechao. On the menu: food inspired by the cuisine of the Mien tribe from Southeast Asia, so expect dishes like red coconut curry and chicken-cilantro dumplings. (Track ’em on Facebook as chao.mien.1.) Sundays 5pm–9pm.

Love sandwiches? (Raises hand.) Then head over to Comstock Saloon‘s (155 Columbus, SF. www.comstocksalooncom) new lunch counter during the week, when you can score a fried chicken sandwich, rabbit currywurst, and other lunchtime beasts, like a mighty fine looking meatball sandwich. Sidle on up to the new second bar inside to place your order Mon–Fri noon–4pm. (No fear, the Friday free lunch offer still stands — order two drinks and you get the lunch item of the day!).

Lastly, starting on Saturday, Jan. 18th is a new weekend brunch at Chile Pies and Ice Cream (601 Baker, SF. www.chilepies.com) in the Panhandle, with breakfast egg pies, whoa, and green chile biscuits with homestyle bacon gravy, yes. Come by 11am–2pm, and there will be Champagne cocktails too. Cheers to all of it.

Marcia Gagliardi is the founder of the weekly tablehopper e-column; subscribe for more at www.tablehopper.com. Get her app: Tablehopper’s Top Late-Night Eats. On Twitter: @tablehopper.

Wrap it up

Michael Redmond

-

January 7, 2014

3

culture@sfbg.com

TABLEHOPPING How was your New Year’s Eve? Did you tell 2013 to not let the door hit it on the ass on its way out, or who knows, maybe 2013 was oh-so-good to you? Hopefully the latter. One thing I do know is deadlines were a little wonky over the holiday, and yours truly started early on the Champagne (oops), so my end-of-the-year recap is running in the paper a wee bit late.

Here are brief highlights of new places that opened in 2013 that I’m fired up to have in our culinary scene, and look forward to visiting more in 2014. Did you check all of these off your list already? No? Let’s roll the tape.

PATISSERIES AND BAKERIES

So much beauty resides in the pastry case at b. patisserie, everyone must try the honey cake (and knishes!) at 20th Century Café, and croissants and savory creations at Le Marais Bakery in the Marina are trés destination-worthy.

BURGERS

A simple but good one can be found at the revamped Fog City. It’s the way you wish a McDonald’s cheeseburger would taste — the American cheese is even made in-house! And the renovated MKT at the Four Seasons has a delicious duck fat burger. (The steak tartare is also really, really good.) The beef and bacon burger at RickyBobby in the Lower Haight is the business, and the version at Mason Pacific comes on a pretzel bun with smoked tomato, tasty.

IS IT A BAR OR A RESTAURANT?

I love being able to do double duty at places with great cocktails and superior vittles, like Hard Water — have you had the fried chicken, or the fried milk-braised celery hearts?! Or Trick Dog, where the late-night kitchen hours are brilliant — and the boneless chicken wings and Manimal-style thrice-cooked fries are gifts to drunks and stoners everywhere. And then there’s the renovated Tosca, now serving some of the city’s best meatballs and housemade bucatini all’amatriciana: Start with the Trouble in Paradise cocktail.

FANCY PANTS

Gotta hand it to Saison for having one of the sexiest bar menus — the same can be said of the china and stemware. Gorgeous don’t come cheap.

NEIGHBORHOOD JOINTS

Russian Hill gets a two-fer: 1760 (the crudos!) and Stones Throw (squid ink conchiglie pasta for the win), while the Castro is cozying right up to Fable, and Nico is trying to charm Laurel Heights.

MEXICAN PARTY BUS

Padrecito is getting Cole Valley tipsy on good drinks — La Copa Verde, we are talking about you! — to go with goat tacos (points for selling a kale taco), while La Urbana is curing hangovers with its chilaquiles and Mexican Dude cocktail. And bienvenidos to the fiesta, Sabrosa.

SANDWICHES

For your must-try list: the Italian combo and Arista at Merigan Sub Shop, the lampredotto (it’s tripe, yo) at Elmira Rosticceria, and the Rachel at Shorty Goldstein’s in the FiDi.

JUST DAMN TASTY

Maruya in the Mission is giving us a new counter where we can enjoy some top sushi, while the Sri Lankan-influenced 1601 Bar and Kitchen brings us a spin on the traditional egg hopper, my idea of a killer app. The new menu at Betelnut is also rocking the party, with the char siu spring rolls and hamachi sashimi.

STYLIN’

The Cavalier in SoMa is plying us with eggs and soldiers and a mighty fine burger, while Coqueta flirts with us over gin and tonics and pintxos.

THANKS FOR NOT TAKING ALL MY MONEY

It’s so good to have Guddu de Karahi back with us (and his tandoori fish), while the second location of Ramen Underground in Japantown means you can find a place to sit while you enjoy spicy miso ramen. The tortillas from the Burr-eatery truck, get ’em! And I’m digging the savory waffles at Linea Caffe.

WINE BAR 2.0

Fortunately we have moved past the lousy style and cheap wines at too many wine bars around the city — there are good bites and pours at the funky 20 Spot, excellent Italian wines from true wino pros at InoVino and La Nebbia, and some fab Frenchie picks at Aquitaine, including a duck Reuben at lunch.

HERE TODAY, GONE TOMORROW

Sorry to say farewell to all the cool Kiwis and their fresh ingredients at pop-up restaurant Waiheke Island Yacht Club, which played up its America’s Cup connection.

FRESH ON THE SCENE

Looking forward to trying Verbena from Berkeley’s Gather crew, getting smoky at TBD in SoMa, tucking into a Hunanese banquet dinner on at Leader House, and diving deeper into the menu at Daniel Patterson’s Alta CA, where you gotta get the cracked wheat porridge with hen of the woods mushrooms. 2014, you’re looking damn good.

Marcia Gagliardi is the founder of the weekly tablehopper e-column; subscribe for more at www.tablehopper.com. Get her app: Tablehopper’s Top Late-Night Eats. On Twitter: @tablehopper.

Wrap it up

Jesse Hawthorne Ficks

-

January 3, 2014

5

TABLEHOPPING I’m writing this end-of-year recap while looking at thousands of pictures of food from 2012 (oh, I see, that’s how I got these love handles). New Year’s Eve is just four days away, but my tidal wave of sparkles and bubbles is starting early at a party I’m hosting with Louis Roederer Champagne at Marianne’s, the private room at one of this year’s new hotspots, The Cavalier. Yes, it’s Champagne o’clock, and look at that, my watch is running fast. There’s a lot to toast this year! Here are brief highlights of places I’m fired up to have in our culinary scene, and look forward to visiting more in 2014. Let’s roll the tape. And Happy New Year, pop!

Patisseries and bakeries
So much beauty in the pastry case at b. patisserie, everyone needs to try the honey cake (and knishes!) at 20th Century Café, and the croissants and savory creations at Le Marais Bakery in the Marina are so destination-worthy.

Burgers
A simple but good one can be found at the revamped Fog City (it’s the way you wish a McDonalds cheeseburger would taste — they are even making the American cheese in house!), and the renovated MKT at the Four Seasons has a delicious duck fat burger (the steak tartare is also really, really good). The beef and bacon burger at RickyBobby in the Lower Haight is the business, and the version at Mason Pacific comes on a pretzel bun with smoked tomato, so tasty.

Is it a bar or a restaurant?
I love being able to do double duty at places with great cocktails and vittles, like Hard Water (have you had their fried chicken, the fried milk-braised celery hearts?!), Trick Dog (the late-night kitchen hours are brilliant — and the boneless chicken wings and Manimal-style thrice-cooked fries are gifts to drunks and stoners everywhere), and then there’s the renovated Tosca, now serving some of the city’s best meatballs and housemade bucatini all’amatriciana (and start with the Trouble in Paradise cocktail).

Fancy pants
Gotta hand it to Saison for having one of the sexiest bar menus — the same can be said of the china and stemware. Gorgeous doesn’t come cheap.

Neighborhood joints
Russian Hill gets a two-fer: 1760 (the crudos!) and Stones Throw (squid ink conchiglie pasta for the win), while the Castro is cozying right up to Fable, and Nico is trying to charm Laurel Heights.

Mexican party bus
Padrecito is getting Cole Valley tipsy on good drinks (La Copa Verde, we are talking about you!) to go with goat tacos (points for selling a kale taco), while La Urbana is curing hangovers with its chilaquiles and Mexican Dude. And bienvenidos to the fiesta, Sabrosa.

Sandwiches
For your must-try list: the Italian combo and Arista at Merigan Sub Shop, the lampredotto (it’s tripe, yo) at Elmira Rosticceria, and the Rachel at Shorty Goldstein’s in the FiDi.

Just damn tasty
Maruya in the Mission is giving us a new counter where we can enjoy some top sushi (arigato!), while the Sri Lankan-influenced 1601 Bar & Kitchen brings us the egg hopper, my idea of a killer app. The new menu at Betelnut is also rocking the party (like the char siu spring rolls and hamachi sashimi).

Stylin’
The Cavalier in SoMa is plying us with eggs and soldiers and a mighty fine burger, while Coqueta flirts with us over gin and tonics and pintxos.

Thanks for not taking all my money
It’s so good to have Guddu de Karahi back with us (and his tandoori fish), while the second location of Ramen Underground in Japantown means you can find a place to sit while you enjoy its spicy miso ramen. The tortillas from the Burr-eatery truck, get ’em! And I’m digging the savory waffles at Linea Caffe.

Wine bar 2.0
Fortunately we have moved past the lousy style and cheap wines at too many wine bars around the city — there are good bites and pours at the funky 20 Spot, excellent Italian wines from true wino pros at InoVino and La Nebbia, and some fab Frenchie picks at Aquitaine (plus a duck Reuben at lunch).

Here today, gone tomorrow
Sorry to say farewell to all the cool Kiwis (and their fresh ingredients) at pop-up restaurant Waiheke Island Yacht Club.

Fresh on the scene
Looking forward to trying Verbena (from Berkeley’s Gather crew), getting smoky at TBD in SoMa, getting my Hunanese banquet dinner on at Leader House, and diving deeper into the menu at Daniel Patterson’s Alta CA (you gotta get the cracked wheat porridge with hen of the woods mushrooms). 2014, you’re looking damn good.

Marcia Gagliardi is the founder of the weekly tablehopper e-column; subscribe for more at www.tablehopper.com. Get her app: Tablehopper’s Top Late-Night Eats. On Twitter: @tablehopper

Italian Job

Michael Redmond

-

December 17, 2013

0

culture@sfbg.com

CHOW NOW

Who doesn’t like lasagna? Exactly. It’s one of many reasons I’m excited to head over to the new La Nebbia (1781 Church, SF. www.lanebbia.com) in Noe Valley. The name means “fog” in Italian, something we know too damn well here.

It’s a sister restaurant to Massimiliano Conti and Lorella Degan’s La Ciccia (barely a block away), but it’s more of an enoteca, prosciutteria, and, yes, lasagneria. Everything on the menu is meant to go well with wine, so you’ll find 10 kinds of hams, ranging from prosciutto to jamón Ibérico, along with fresh cheeses (like burrata), and there are also a few pizzas too.

Don’t expect the usual suspects — the kitchen is having some fun with toppings like squid ink, fresh mozzarella, anchovies, sultanas, and pine nuts. As for the hot lasagna action, there will be a traditional one with ragù and béchamel; another with ricotta, pesto, and escarole; and one that is like a seafood puttanesca. Porchetta is also rumored to be coming soon.

As for the wines, they all come from foggy regions in Italy, and you can try about 30 by the glass, and 20 sparkling wines or so are on the list too. It’s a casual place to swing by, with a 13-seat counter, a communal table, and some two- and four-top tables. Hours are Sun, Tue–Thu 5:30pm–10:30pm, and until 11pm Fri–Sat, closed Monday.

Due to soft open this Thursday in the former Frankie’s Bohemian Café space on Divis is Presidio Pizza Company (1862 Divisadero, SF.) from chef-partner Frank Bumbalo, who is opening the joint with the neighboring Fishbowl owners, Kevin Kynoch and John Miles. Anyone who has been jonesing for a New York–style slice will be happy to know Bumbalo is a Brooklyn native, and will be slinging thin-crust New York (Neapolitan round) style, plus Sicilian style, and here’s a new one to me: grandma pizza.

Bumbalo explained that grandma pizza is a form of thin-crust pizza, but square like a Sicilian (and not as thick), with origins in Long Island — its name seems to come from the type of pizza Italian grandmas and mothers make at home. Working the decks with Bumbalo is Chris Norton, previously a line cook at A16. There will be two entrances. If you walk in off Divisadero, you’ll find table service. If a quick slice is what’s on your mind, you’ll want to enter on Pine. (There will be some bar stools and a standing ledge). Hours to start will be Sun–Wed 11am–11pm, Thu 11am–12am, and Fri–Sat 11am–2:30am (whew, you can snag a slice just after last call).

FISHY FEAST

Anyone who knows any southern Italians (or happens to be one) has probably heard of the Feast of the Seven Fishes, the traditional feast on Christmas Eve (Dec. 24th).

While the Italian half of my family doesn’t limit our “Cenone” to just seven fish, it truly is one of my favorite meals of the year. (Anchovy and breadcrumb pasta, what’s not to love?) Some San Francisco restaurants are getting in on the feast, and while some of the dishes aren’t exactly traditional, they’ll certainly be pleasing. Check out A16 (www.a16sf.com), $80 per person, or A16 Rockridge (www.a16rockridge.com), $75, which are both offering seven seafood courses; Locanda (www.locandasf.com) still has some seats at both its 5pm and 8pm seatings, $90; Palio d’Asti (www.paliodasti.com) is doing a feast for $79 per person; and lastly, the Calabrese-owned Poesia (www.poesiasf.com) in the Castro is doing a Calabrese-style, seafood-focused dinner that night too. Buon appetito, buone feste!

Marcia Gagliardi is the founder of the weekly tablehopper e-column; subscribe for more at www.tablehopper.com. Get her app: Tablehopper’s Top Late-Night Eats. On Twitter: @tablehopper.

Mexican dude

Michael Redmond

-

December 10, 2013

0

culture@sfbg.com

CHOW NOW

There’s a new hangout in town, with a kitchen that wants to stay open until 1am to feed you. And I’m not talking about cardboard-crusted pizza, or greasy tacos, or coagulated tikka masala (ew). Wipe all those thoughts away. How about housemade pastrami and bialys, or a cheeseburger (which comes with bacon) on a house-baked bun? Doesn’t a homey bowl of cracked wheat with hen of the woods mushrooms sound good? Confit chicken leg? Yes. Yes. Yes. You’ll find all this and more at the brand-new Alta CA (1420 Market, SF. www.altaca.co), which just joined the percolating Mid-Market scene, kitty-corner to the new Twitter building.

It’s the latest space to open in the Daniel Patterson Group of restaurants (Coi, Plum, Haven), with chef Yoni Levy leading the charge. You can come by for lunch or dinner, and there’s also a full bar, at which you can order a barrel-aged cocktail to go with your dill-pickled deviled eggs. (The wine list is also pretty killer, and there are some local beers on draft, too). Whether you’re on a date or dining solo, the stylish place has a fun vibe that isn’t overbearing or too quiet — much like the third bed in the three bears, it’s just right. There are 65 seats and a very cool floor-to-ceiling shelving system that separates the kitchen from the dining room, but still allows you to peek into the busy kitchen (you voyeur you). Open Mon–Fri 11am–2am and Sat–Sun 5pm–2am.

If you swing by Comstock Saloon (155 Columbus, SF. www.comstocksaloon.com) in North Beach, no, you aren’t seeing double. Actually, you kind of are (boozehound!). The dining room has a new second bar that’s been added — woohoo, more room for thirsty people! — and the dining tables have been replaced with high-top marble tables, so the feeling in the dining room is now more casual and easygoing.

In keeping with Comstock’s vintage Gold Rush feel, the new bar is actually an oldie: a restored old-growth redwood and mahogany slab, with an antique tap handle that dates all the way back to 1880. Yeah, that’s fricking old.

To go with all this old-new coolness is a fresh menu from the new chef, conveniently named Ronnie New. He was previously at Magnolia, and is bringing a bit of his New Orleans roots to the table (think peel-and-eat Louisiana Gulf shrimp and an andouille Scotch egg with mustard aioli). He’s also showcasing a Comstock burger, rabbit currywurst with fries, and squash fritters. Bonus: the full menu is now served Mon–Sat 4pm–12am and Sun 4pm–10pm (the bar is open daily 4pm–2am). One last tidbit: Comstock is continuing its Saloon’s Free Lunch Friday, which means if you purchase two boozy beverages, you receive a free lunch, how sweet is that? (The dish changes weekly.)

Two new brunches for your neverending list o’ brunchy options in this town. First up, La Urbana (661 Divisadero, SF. www.laurbanasf.com) has juuuuuust started weekend brunch, with menu items like eggs with grilled chorizo and a Manchego quesadilla; chilaquiles with grilled steak and over-easy eggs; an omelette with Manchego, bacon, onion, rajas puree, and pea tendrils; and tamales de chile con queso. While the brunch plates will cost more than a visit to San Jalisco (think $12–15), you’ll be able to pair a nice mezcal bloody Mary with them. Pro tip: ask to order the Mexican Dude off the nighttime cocktail menu (housemade horchata, vodka, mezcal, and espresso coffee liqueur). If that isn’t one of the best hangover helpers you’ve ever had, I don’t know what I’m doing anymore. Serving 11am–2:30pm.

You live on Russian Hill? You can stumble over to the new Sunday brunch at Stones Throw (1896 Hyde, SF. www.stonesthrowsf.com), with soft-scrambled eggs and mushrooms, butter-fried pancakes (well then!), butternut squash and duck confit hash, and great beers. And bubbly. And doughnuts. Served 11am–2pm.

Marcia Gagliardi is the founder of the weekly tablehopper e-column; subscribe for more at www.tablehopper.com. Get her app: Tablehopper’s Top Late-Night Eats. On Twitter: @tablehopper.

Go east

Michael Redmond

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December 3, 2013

3

culture@sfbg.com

The 510 is blowing up with new openings. Plus: how to get dinner delivered in SF for $12.

CHOW NOW

While San Francisco always has a ton of new places to check out, we would be remiss if we didn’t mention all the culinary amazingness that’s popping up on the other side of the bay right now. Two words: en fuego. Currently in its soft opening mode is the brand-new Iyasare (1830 Fourth St, Berk. www.iyasare-berkeley.com) from chef-owner Shotaro Kamio, most recently at Yoshi’s in San Francisco. This very personal project looks to Kamio’s hometown of Tohoku in northeastern Japan for inspiration. The menu has rustic appeal, with dishes like eggplant and miso and whole-roasted branzino, but it’s elevated by Kamio’s fantastic sourcing and flair (there is also intriguing sushi, and some other raw items). Lunch is coming in a couple weeks.

More Berkeley action: a new modern Greek restaurant, Pathos (2430 Shattuck Ave, Berk. www.pathorestaurant.com) from chef-owner Nick Eftimiou, who is breaking out some family recipes, and plans to stay open late on the weekends — there’s a full bar. Opa!

All kinds of hype is brewing around Oakland’s new Penrose (3311 Grand Ave, Oakl. www.penroseoakland.com) from Charlie Hallowell (Boot & Shoe Service, Pizzaiolo). The stylish 60-seat space is eye-catching to say the least, with custom elements like chic dining tables, glass lighting, and dark gray concrete bar. The menu, under chef Miles Schaefer, features many items coming from the wood-fired grill, plus some raw items too, like a hamachi crudo with za’taar and radish. Cocktails, check. Hours are Thu–Mon 5pm–12am.

Additional Oakland openings include the intimate Osmanthus (6048 College Ave, Oakl. www.osmanthusrestaurant.com) in Rockridge, serving a modern-classic Asian menu from chef Julia Klein (previously at Terra in St. Helena); her menu has plenty of small plates like chicken wings, dry-fried green beans, mapo tofu, and some fried rice dishes. There’s a bar in the back, too.

Just down the street is Box & Bells (5912 College Ave, Oakl. www.boxandbells.com) from chef James Syhabout (Commis, Hawker Fare), with Benjamin Coe (Commis) leading the kitchen. The hearty menu includes country pork pâté, fried chicken, and tikka masala mussels — damn, that sounds amazing. Cocktails are $10.

The folks behind the popular Ohgane have opened Copan (4869 Telegraph Ave, Oakl. 510-654-2000) in the former Sura in Temescal. The Korean-Japanese menu features small plates like scallion pancake, bibimbap, stews, and soups. Lunch and dinner daily, 11am–10pm.

Craving some Jamaican eats, mon? Swing by the newly opened Kingston 11 (2270 Telegraph Ave, Oakl. 510-214-2311) which graduated from its pop-up status into a full-fledged restaurant. The Jamaican menu, which uses organic ingredients, includes salt fish fritters, black pepper tofu, and of course jerk chicken with rice, peas, and plantains, along with oxtail stew. A rum bar provides cocktails, with other spirits, wine, and beer.

BALLIN’ ON A BUDGET

You’re hangry, it’s Tuesday night, and you don’t want to spend $20 on a delivery minimum from your local Thai place, plus tax and tip, and wait 45 minutes. You just want a well-balanced meal, nothing too fancy, but definitely tasty. Meet Sprig (www.eatsprig.com), a new service that delivers a meal to you via its iPhone app in about 20 minutes. For $12, all-inclusive. Say what? You can check out Sprig at this introductory price through December; the cost will go up a little bit in the New Year (the delivery area is also expanding too, and Android support is on its way).

Delivery hours are Mon–Thu 6pm–9:30pm, and you can choose from three different entrées (with sides) each night, which range from a lighter option to a heavier one, plus there’s a vegetarian pick, and one is always gluten-free too. The food is from former Google executive chef Nate Keller, and you can expect quality and seasonal ingredients. My dinner one night (the “light” option) included two chicken empanadas — I saved one for lunch the next day — with sautéed spinach and saucy chickpeas on the side. It was on the level of a simple home-cooked meal, but only took me a few taps on my phone. And just one dish to wash.

Marcia Gagliardi is the founder of the weekly tablehopper e-column; subscribe for more at www.tablehopper.com. Get her app: Tablehopper’s Top Late-Night Eats. On Twitter: @tablehopper.

L’chaim!

Michael Redmond

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November 27, 2013

0

culture@sfbg.com

CHOW NOW

Fans of Brenda’s French Soul Food will be happy to know the next time you’re in line for your weekend beignets and Hangtown fry (sorry to be a buzz kill but you really need to watch your cholesterol, babe), you’ll be able to score a delicious chicory coffee and more next door at the new Libby Jane Café (644 Polk, SF), courtesy of Brenda’s wife and biz partner, Libby Truesdell. This tiny new joint is opening Nov. 29 and is mostly meant to be a takeout spot: You can get the famed biscuits (yes yes yes), coffee, sweet tea, and gumbo by the quart — perfect on chilly nights — plus items like Brenda’s pickled okra and watermelon. Open daily.

Another new and petite spot where you can find some tasty treats is Marla Bakery Kitchen Communal (613 York, SF. www.marlabakery.com). I know, it’s Thanksgiving this week and I’m telling you about buttery baked goods, but you gotta eat. While owners Amy Brown and Joe Wolf are finishing up their new bakery in the Outer Richmond, they figured out they can actually sell some goodies from their commissary kitchen in the Mission in the meantime. We all win. Swing on by for Danishes and turnovers, or a bagel with herbed farmer cheese, and there’s also a “lunch box” of the day, with a savory pie and dessert. Mmmm, pie! You can also get some sweets from Wholesome Bakery (think ice-cream sandwiches, cookie sandwiches, and donuts) and A Spoonful of Sugar (offering brioche doughnuts and cupcakes), plus coffee and espresso from Wrecking Ball Coffee. Hours are Mon–Fri 9am–4pm.

BALLIN’ ON A BUDGET

Okay, so a $55 dinner isn’t exactly a budget item, but a four-course Hanukkah menu is too damn cool to not get fired up about it. Chef Charlie Kleinman of Wexler’s (568 Sacramento, SF. www.wexlerssf.com) in the Financial District will be serving this special menu Nov. 29-30. It’s inspired by the Kleinman family’s own traditional Hanukkah dinner, so don’t be surprised when the brisket is served family-style. The menu includes roasted duck matzo ball soup, latkes, brisket braised in mead, potato kugel, roasted carrots, and of course sufganiyot, aka jelly doughnuts, for dessert. There are also Hanukkah-inspired cocktails! L’chaim! Reservations can be made by calling the restaurant at 415-983-0102 or hopping on the Wexler’s homepage. Jump on this quickly, seating is limited.

YOU GOTTA EAT THIS

Isn’t it crazy that Thanksgiving and the first day of Hanukkah are the same day, Nov. 28? (Hanukkah officially begins the 27th at sundown.) Downtown sandwich spot Shorty Goldstein’s (126 Sutter, SF. www.shortygoldssteins.com) is getting in on the fun this week with some “Thanksgivukkah” specials like turkey matzo soup. Shorty’s will be open on Black Friday, which is very useful info for all you shoppers who need something substantial to fuel up on.

Chef-owner Michael Siegel features a number of family recipes on the menu, from rustic knishes to chopped liver, and some excellent house-made pastrami. One thing Siegel has really dialed in of late is the rye bread — it turns out the restaurant is making its own bread now, so the sandwiches are registering extra-high on the tasty meter. Go for simpler picks like pastrami or corned beef on rye, or the Rachel (a Reuben made with pastrami). On the days when you need some home cooking, don’t miss the prakas: beef-stuffed cabbage with a sweet and sour tomato sauce. Good stuff. Salted caramel egg cream. Whoa. It’s a casual and popular lunchtime spot that also happens to be open for breakfast too: Bagel and egg with pastrami and cheddar? Oh, hell yes.

Marcia Gagliardi is the founder of the weekly tablehopper e-column; subscribe for more at www.tablehopper.com. Get her app: Tablehopper’s Top Late-Night Eats. On Twitter: @tablehopper.

Sabrosito

Michael Redmond

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November 19, 2013

0

CHOW NOW

If you’re a fan of the incredible birria on the weekends at Gallardo‘s (3248 18th St, SF. 415-436-9387), you’ll be happy to know you can go for the goat at the Mexican restaurant’s new location (in the former Chava’s), which is still in La Mission. You can also join the line for the weekend menudo, and warm up with some pozole during the week. Welcome back, Gallardo’s!

Over in the Marina, a new Mexican restaurant that has opened in the former City Tavern, Sabrosa (3200 Fillmore, SF. www.sabrosasf.com), has one hell of a chef: José Ramos, who was one of the founding chefs at Nopalito and has been at Nido in Oakland of late. His home-style menu includes recipes from the ladies in his life (that would be his mother, grandma, and aunt), with some local and seasonal twists. Look for a toasted masa sope with pasilla chile, beef tips, and chickpea; quite a few salads; tacos and quesadillas, including a quesadilla de tinga poblano with chicken, chorizo, chipotle chile and tomato sauce, crema, and epazote (which I can’t wait to taste); and entrées like caldo xochitl, a chicken, rice, and squash soup with carrots, turnips, and chipotle. There’s also grilled chicken with a chile seed pipián sauce. It all sounds muy tasty.

A dining room with a communal table fits 12, and outside seating has room for 32 (yes, there are heaters). There’s also a large, 24-seat bar of golden onyx, where you can get your heat on with drinks like the Night Creature, with Old Overholt rye, mezcal, Averna, Benedictine, and orange bitters. Or heat up with a Pepino Diablo, made from jalapeño-infused tequila, cucumber, lime, and salt. Brunch and lunch will be coming in about six weeks.

YOU GOTTA EAT THIS

You love sandwiches? How about an East Coast-style sub? Yeah, I thought so. You need to hightail it over to the newly opened Merigan (636 2nd St., SF. www.merigansubshop.com) in SoMa, where chef Liza Shaw, formerly of A16 and Acquerello, is bringing her twist on a sub shop to glorious light.

Shaw takes care of all the butchery in-house. Everything from the pork in the Arista (a delightfully drippy sandwich with roasted pork loin and braised shoulder with provolone, hot peppers, and arugula, uh huh, and you can add burrata to it, hold the phone) to the meatballs, the coppa di testa, and porchetta all come from the one and a half sides of Llano Seco pigs Merigan will be getting each week. Also under the hot subs list, there’s an eggplant parm and chicken parm sandwich, and a cheesesteak too.

Cold subs include a roast beef number with horseradish ricotta, provolone, pickled onions, and arugula, or housemade egg salad, and the insanely good Italian combo, with mortadella, salami, prosciutto cotto, provolone, shredded lettuce, onion, tomato, aioli, and hots (those would be hot peppers for those of us who don’t speak Philly). This sandwich is the kind you want to eat half of and come back to the other half late at night when it has all been marinating together even longer Yeah, that. This sandwich is almost too good. All the subs come on a custom sesame Italian roll from Pinkie’s Bakery, with a texture that’s soft and chewy, perfect.

Bonus points: The sub shop is near the ballpark, which is gonna be perfect for when baseball is back, and it has a killer wine and beer selection. Plus, you can get an Italian ice for dessert. Is this heaven or what? Hours are Mon–Sat 10am–7pm.

Marcia Gagliardi is the founder of the weekly tablehopper e-column; subscribe for more at www.tablehopper.com. Get her app: Tablehopper’s Top Late-Night Eats. On Twitter: @tablehopper.

Waffling

Michael Redmond

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November 12, 2013

0

culture@sfbg.com

CHOW NOW

One of San Francisco’s classic icons, the Big 4 (1075 California, SF. www.big4restaurant.com) at The Huntington Hotel, is sadly going to be closing on Jan. 4 for a renovation by new owner Grace International of Singapore. What’s frustrating is Grace isn’t offering much in the way of info about the renovation: Are they massively changing the place? Will the piano remain? What about the beautiful bar and lounge? Hopefully they don’t do something stupid, because a lot of people have sentimental feelings about the Big 4’s classic, clubby room. (It’s had 66 years to accumulate a lot of fans.) What this does mean is if you want to salute the Big 4 as you know it — and there’s no better time to visit than during the holidays — then you may want to scoot over for a final cocktail or dinner now. Spring 2014 is when we’re supposed to see what the $15 million remodel looks like — hopefully the money goes more toward sprucing up the hotel rooms.

Another place that’s leaving us is Kronnerburger (2379 Mission, SF. www.kronnerburger.com), the damn delicious burger pop-up in the side room at Bruno’s. Chef-burger honcho Chris Kronner is closing in on an Oakland location (off Piedmont Avenue) for his brick and mortar, so he’ll be slinging his last burgers in the Mission on Nov. 22. If you haven’t had a chance to sink your choppers into one of his burgers made with aged beef, you better get on it. Open Sun–Fri for dinner, 6pm–late.

One more pop-up that’s closing shop (although you have a bit more time with this one) is the Kiwi-owned restaurant, Waiheke Island Yacht Club (Pier 29, 1256 The Embarcadero, www.waihekeislandyachtclub.com) on the Embarcadero. This chic temporary restaurant will be with us through the end of the year, so scoot on over while you can for some exciting and contemporary Kiwi cuisine: The team has added new seasonal menus from chef Hayden McMillan and a new wine list that includes selections from New Zealand. (The list is no longer limited to solely featuring wines from Napa Valley.)

BALLIN’ ON A BUDGET

Downtown workers looking for an inexpensive dinner before punching out and heading home should check out the new brasserie plates at the casual Tender Greens (30 Fremont, SF. www.tendergreens.com). Chef Sean Canavan has launched a series of hearty plates that over-deliver for only $12 each; you’ll find dishes like choucroute garni (smoked pork chop, juniper-scented sauerkraut, ribs, housemade bratwurst, and mashed potatoes) and cassoulet Toulousain (baked white beans, housemade Toulouse sausage, braised pork, and duck confit). Yup, perfect for chilly fall nights.

YOU GOTTA EAT THIS

Anyone who loves blini and caviar is gonna want to have a date with the buckwheat waffle with salmon roe, crème fraîche, dill, and slices of cucumber (with a shaking of nori powder) at the recently opened Lt. Waffle inside of the petite Linea Caffe (3417 18th St., SF. www.lineacaffe.com) in the Mission. First, order a superlative espresso at the counter, courtesy of roasting maestro Andrew Barnett. And then try to snag a table outside on the sunny alley while they prepare your Brussels-style waffle. There are some brilliant flavor combos, from savory picks like a potato waffle with pastrami and sauerkraut to sweet like “churro style” with chocolate and coconut crema. You can come back for the damn tasty salads from GreenSalads.org later. Score: Everything is $10 and under. Open 8am–3pm daily.

Marcia Gagliardi is the founder of the weekly tablehopper e-column, www.tablehopper.com. Get her app: Tablehopper’s Top Late-Night Eats. On Twitter: @tablehopper.