Parking

San Gregorio

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Rating: A

Still the USA’s longest continually used nude beach, San Gregorio even has its own website and live web cam. The privately run operation, which is located next to San Gregorio State Beach, recently began its 46th year of serving the clothing-optional community.

The beach often draws a large gay crowd, along with some nude and suited straight couples, singles, and families.

Nude use of San Gregorio began before 1966. Air Force veteran and San Francisco State College senior Darrell Tarver, 28, formed, with a “Committee For Free Beaches” with some of his friends to leaflet college campuses in San Francisco and Berkeley about the “free beach” in San Gregorio. Word spread rapidly. Soon, there were 500 nudists swarming onto the shore nearly every Sunday. “This is the best incentive I have to stay slim,” a UC Berkeley coed told a Time magazine reporter.

But problems soon cropped up. Gawkers began taking up positions, while small planes buzzed the beach. A father of a 14 year old girl tried to press charges after claiming that his daughter had been pressured into disrobing in public at the beach. The county district attorney’s office dropped the case after deciding that nothing lewd or obscene had taken place. But instead of dissuading visitors from disrobing, the news sent even more nudists onto the sand. Attempts to keep the hordes of naked people away by closing the access roads proved futile because they walked around the south end of the beach at low tide or even formed human chains down some dangerous cliff trails.

Today, the human chains are long gone and have been replaced by a privately managed attraction. “It’s a really romantic spot,” says a single woman. But make no mistake, the college coeds have mostly left. In fact, San Gregorio has, over the years, become mostly a gay hangout and pickup spot. Want to give it a try? First-timers are sometimes annoyed (as I was, years ago) by the driftwood structures on the sandy slope leading down to the beach, which are used by some visitors as “sex condos.” However, fans of the beach savor San Gregorio’s stunning scenery. It has “awesome natural beauty,” says regular visitor Bob Wood. Attractions of the 120 acre site include two miles of soft sand and tide pools to explore, as well as a lagoon, lava tube, and, if you look closely enough on the cliffs, the remains of an old railroad line.

Some 49 percent of over 1,000 persons surveyed at about.com advised “don’t go there,” 38% called it excellent, and 10% rated it “good, but with a few flaws.”

The beach is open weekends 9 a.m. until sunset on weekends and weekdays from 10 a.m.-7 p.m., with the last users admitted at 5 p.m. Weather report hotline: 415-765-7697.

Legal status:

Private property, leased land.

How to find it:

From San Francisco, drive south on Highway 1, past Half Moon Bay, and, between mileposts 18 and 19, look on the right side of the road for telephone call box number SM 001 0195, at the intersection of Highway 1 and Stage Road, and near an iron gate with trees on either side. From there, expect a drive of 1.1 miles to the entrance. At the Junction 84 highway sign, the beach’s driveway is just .1 mile away. Turn into a gravel driveway, passing through the iron gate mentioned above, which says 119429 on the gatepost. Drive past a grassy field to the parking lot, where you’ll be asked to pay an entrance fee. Take the long path from the lot to the sand; everything north of the trail’s end is clothing-optional. The beach is also accessible from the San Gregorio State Beach parking area to the south; from there, hike about a half-mile north. Take the dirt road past the big white gate with the Toll Road sign to the parking lot.

The beach:

You’ll find caves, cliffs, driftwood structures (common practice is to hang a t-shirt over a pole to indicate a structure is occupied), and a beach full of clean, rolling sand. Pets are OK (though dogs are not allowed on weekends or holidays); fires, cameras, and overnight camping are banned. Swimming is not recommended. There are chemical toilets in the parking lot.

The crowd:

On the warmest days 50 to 200 visitors may be spread thinly along the sprawling beach, which is so large it never feels crowded. “The wide open spaces give one the feeling of being very alone,” a reader named Paul says. “I was surprised, though, that even on warm weekends there were almost no heterosexuals in sight.” On the south end of the beach, there are sometimes dozens of straight couples and families, both naked and clothed. Gay men tend to hang out on the north side.

Problems:

Entrance fee, wind, riptides, cold water, summer fog, sex on the beach or in driftwood “condos,” not much of a social atmosphere.

Montara State Beach

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Rating: C

Montara doesn’t allow nudity, so keep some clothes handy if you decide to attempt some bare bottom baking in the summer sun — and a ranger starts approaching. Most visitors do not go nude. Only a few people still sunbathe topless or nude at the far north end of Montara, which is just south of People’s Beach and People’s neighbor, Devil’s Slide. It originally attracted naturists when a landslide blocked the road to Devil’s Slide years ago. 

Legal status:

State beach, where rangers will and do issue citations for nudity.

How to find it:

Montara is 1.1 miles south of Devil’s Slide on Highway 1. Arrive early on busy days to get parking. Walk north to the northern tip of the beach, where occasional nudity takes place on the hottest summer weekdays.

The beach:

An area of dunes on the narrow beach strip’s north end was formerly used for semiprivate nude sunbathing. In recent years, the “nude spot” has become eroded and more exposed to public view.

The crowd:

Only a few naturists still visit Montara.

Problems:

Fog; wind; beach erosion; icy water; intolerant park rangers.

Devil’s Slide (Gray Whale Cove)

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Improved directions!

Recommended!

Devil’s Slide (Gray Whale Cove)

Rating: A

Gray Whale Cove, which is often called Devil’s Slide, continues to get rave reviews from visitors.

“There were lots of young, fit guys on the nudie part and about five women,” reports Alexis, of San Leandro, who visited this June and told Yelp she stayed for over five hours because it was “very warm and sunny.” The water was “very cold, but just jump in,” she suggests. “It’s somewhat tolerable and you’ll get used to it.”

“This is a great nude beach and it is a romantic place,” reports a male visitor who dropped by in April.

Adds Grace, of South San Francisco: “You don’t have to walk a half mile just to see the edge of the water.” And, she added, it’s “very secluded” so it isn’t as crowded as many other local beaches.

And here’s some even better news: although the beach appears on the list of parks scheduled to be closed this month by the state due to budget shortfalls, officials plan to keep it open while they negotiate with what Paul Keel, San Mateo coast state parks sector superintendent, calls a prospective “donor to keep it in operation for the coming year.”

At press time, Keel told us that although “nothing’s been signed or inked, it’s fair to say we are optimistic, so hopefully we will know more in the next month.”

Access to the site, though, is changing: after a long-awaited, voter-approved Devil’s Slide tunnel is completed this fall, Keel and others expect a possible increase in traffic to the beach, as more pedestrians and bicyclists use a nearby section of Highway 1 that is being closed.

Meanwhile, rangers say they will allow a long-standing tradition of nudity to continue on the sand unless visitors complain. “But it’s not a nude beach,” Supervising State Park Ranger Michael Grant told us several seasons ago.

However, with state budget woes and cutbacks of personnel, there have not been any reports of nudists being chased off the sprawling, pristine site. Even if someone wants to complain about the naked people, rangers aren’t usually at the beach and cell phone reception there to try to reach them is regarded as poor. 

Part of the beach isn’t even within state land, so it’s not subject to enforcement by rangers.

Grant told us that enforcement is being left up to individual rangers. “What we do varies, depending on the circumstances,” he says. “Every case is different.”

Another administrator claims that it’s unlikely nudists will be told to leave. “It’s a relatively remote place, so we aren’t going to be pursuing enforcement against nudity at Gray Whale Cove,” said the administrator, who wanted to remain anonymous. “Nothing’s changed about our enforcement.”

He said, though, that if a ranger drove up and saw two groups of school children approaching, then the beach would not be regarded as “remote” anymore. In such a case, naturists would probably be asked to suit up.

About one or two in every 20-30 visitors go nude at the beautiful cove — quite a contrast to the several hundred who used to strip off their clothes when the site was a privately operated nude beach a decade ago.

The remaining naturists tend to hang out on the north end of the shoreline. “It’s a good place to recharge from work,” says regular visitor Ron, who enjoys swimming there, even though signs warn of dangerous surf. The beach is open every day. Dogs are prohibited.

Legal status:

Gray Whale Cove State Beach.

How to find it:

From San Francisco, take Highway 1 south through Pacifica. Three miles south of the Denny’s restaurant in Linda Mar, turn left (inland or east) on an unmarked road, which takes you to the beach’s parking lot. Coming from the south on Highway 1, look for the turnoff road on the right (east), 1.2 miles north of the Chart House restaurant in Montara.

New directions after this fall: from the north, take Highway 1 through the Devil’s Slide tunnel and then turn left onto the road described above. From the south, continue using the above directions.

Park in the beach lot and then take a 146-step staircase leads to the sand. “The steps are in good shape,” Ron says. 

Most naturists use the north end of the sand, which some visitors regard as the prettiest part of the shore. It’s separated by rocks from the rest of the beach, so regular visitors suggest waiting until low tide to make the crossing to the nude area. 

Alexis, who visited when the tide was high, says: “You have to be in some kind of good shape and have the agility to climb over those boulders with the waves violently crashing into them. I got cuts on my feet, but it was easier to do it barefoot, though.”

“I lost my flip flops” during the climb, she adds. It was “too slippery with them on anyway.” She notes it is “probably not always like this.” The “tide was very rough and high at 5 p.m.”

The beach:

The 300-foot long site is surrounded by orange-hued sandstone cliffs on one side and the beautiful Pacific Ocean on the other. “The beach is beautiful” and “tucked away on the coast,” so it’s not “over populated with city folks,” tells Jane, of San Francisco. Devil’s Slide is a great place to read, tan, jog, play Frisbee, or watch (true to its state beach name) gray whales, pelicans, and surfers. 

The crowd:

Tourists, families, surfers, and naturists all use the beach.

Problems:

Says Ranger Grant: “There’s been an increase in break-ins of vehicles parked along the highway. No matter where you park, be sure to remove any property and take it with you.” Other concerns include highway scheduled to be permanently closed this fall; slippery nude area access rocks; attempting to reach the nude spot in high tide can be dangerous; change in enforcement policy (see above); influx of suited visitors; cold water; fog; wind; landslides sometimes close Highway 1; long walk to the beach; three great white sharks seen in ’80s; parking fee; some sexual activity reported in north cove area and arrests for lewd behavior; and gawking (numerous reports on message boards).

Strawberry Canyon Pool

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Rating: B

The deck and surrounding grassy area at the East Pool, one of three pools in the Strawberry Canyon Recreation Area run by the University of California, Berkeley, has long been used for topless sunbathing. The 25-yard-by-25-yard pool with six lap lanes finally reopened, but there’s no word yet on whether the fun in the sun will continue. Before the closure, rule No. 8 of the posted regulations said that “Bathing suits must be worn at all times by all patrons using the facility (State of California Health Code); topless sunbathing permitted.”

Although thongs and toplessness are banned at the facility’s West Pool, over the years topless use of the East Pool has depended on the weather and the crowd. One visitor said she had been top-free there “every weekend” for two years before the pool was closed for repairs. Very few women were going topless on weekdays, but a fair number were on warm weekends when in the company of other top-free sunbathers. Note: neither all-nude sunbathing nor topless swimming are permitted, and top-free sunning was OK only on the deck of the 80-degree adult lap and “water jogging” East Pool, not at the other two.

Part of UC Berkeley.

How to find it: In Berkeley, take Dwight Way east toward the hills. Two blocks after Piedmont Avenue, turn left onto Prospect Street, which winds around Memorial Stadium. Turn right onto Centennial Drive and follow signs a short distance to the Strawberry Canyon Recreation Area parking lot. Walk past the wading pool and the family-oriented West Pool. The Strawberry Canyon fee for nonstudents is $5 a day, $60 to $75 for a 15-entry pass.

The beach:

A deck and a grassy area around the deck of a large pool used for adult lap swimming.

The crowd:

Mostly UC Berkeley students, professors, and staff and other Berkeley-area residents, leaning heavily toward the young. At the www.topfreedom.com site, Becky, of Oakland, reports that “top freedom” can range “from 10-50 percent on warm and sunny weekend afternoons.”

Problems:

Not designated for full clothing-optional use; no sand; not very private; people must be suited to swim or walk, fee, closed until further notice. The university is raising funds to replaster and reopen the pool.

Bass Lake

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Highly recommended!

Rating: A

After Tracey, of San Anselmo, hiked to what she called “beautiful, clean, sunny” Bass Lake, she went onto a message board in June to urge those who are considering trying the Bolinas attraction to “Go. Go. Go now.” “The trail was a little overgrown. But I had fun swimming nude in the lake,” says regular user Dave Smith, of San Leandro, about his adventure last year. “If you want to visit an enchanted lake, Bass is it,” agrees Ryan, also of the East Bay. “Tree branches reach over the water, forming a magical canopy, and huge bunches of calla lilies bloom on the shore.”

Ryan isn’t kidding: even walking (45-60 minutes from the parking area over 2.8 relatively easy miles) to Bass Lake can be an adventure unlike any other. One time, rangers stopped and cited a clad man who had an unleashed dog, but let the nudists continue. And Smith, who unusually walks naked, has come across bobcats and mountain lions early in the morning. “I came around a corner and there was a mountain lion sitting like Egypt’s Great Sphinx of Giza 50 yards down the path,” he says. Another time, he passed a bend and saw a puma running up the path away from him.

But Bass doesn’t attract as many nudists as it did 10 years ago. “When I first went, everybody was nude,” says Smith, who usually leads a group of Bay Area Naturists once a year for picnicking and swimming outings at Bass, which, by the way, doesn’t have any bass fish. 

“It’s a victim of its own success,” says Pat. “It’s not as nude as before. Sometimes, nudists there are even ostracized. The vibe has changed. Today, most people are cool if you take off your clothes, but some are kind of freaked out.

Although better shoes are advised, you’ll probably see locals wearing flip flops on the trail with either swimsuits under t-shirts or no suits at all, with towels in packs or around their necks.  

Occasional visitor Reese Smith, who led a naturist hike there in September 2010, calls it “gorgeous. It was definitely a good day.” Another fan, who’s a Bay Area judge, rates the water as “exquisite.” Michael Velkoff, who sometimes shows up, says “it’s good place to bring an air mattress” and water shoes, although he prefers sandals. 

Tips:

For the thick and grassy, but sometimes prickly, meadow that visitors use like a lawn in late summer or fall, include a thick towel or sheet in your backpack. Visitor Mark of San Francisco suggests using care if you decide to try the lake’s rope swing to jump up to 20 feet into the water. Inexperienced rope swingers have injured themselves. To prevent mishaps, use both hands on the rope, start with small swings, avoid getting tangled or hitting a tree, and land in the water, away from shore, not the ground, he urges.

Legal status:

Part of Point Reyes National Seashore.

How to find it:

From Stinson Beach, go north on Highway 1. Just north of Bolinas Lagoon, turn left on the often-unmarked exit to Bolinas. Follow the road as it curves along the lagoon and eventually ends at Olema-Bolinas Road, and continue along Olema-Bolinas Road to the stop sign at Mesa Road. Turn right on Mesa and drive four miles, until it becomes a dirt road and ends at a parking lot. On hot days the lot fills quickly, so come early; says Smith, “We once saw hundreds of cars.” A sign at the trailhead next to the lot will guide you down scenic Palomarin Trail, which begins as an old fire road and then narrows. From the grassy meadow mentioned above, it’s just a few easy yards to the water’s edge via any of three paths. One veers to the right; another, more eroded and plant clogged, starts to the left of the meadow; and another, newer trail is between the others.  Users usually find an opening in the foliage and several rocks to jump from.  Crews usually clip back poison oak and other foliage next to the trails each spring.

The beach:

The amazing thing is that even when it’s foggy at the trailhead, it’s often clear at the oblong-shaped, 100-yard-long, spring-fed lake, whose temperature remains constant throughout the year. “It’s very clean,” says Dave Smith. “And it’s so deep that when I swim there with goggles, it turns dark even though I’m not near the bottom.” The area is surrounded by beautiful hills.

The crowd:

The percentage of nudity really varies at Bass, depending on the day and the weather. There could be hardly any skinny-dippers present (Smith was the only person to swim nude during his May visit; Robert Carlsen, of Sacramento, counted five of 75-to-100 visitors on a spring day) to half the crowd (10 of 20 seen by the Bay Area judge on a June outing). “Nonnudists have streamed into the area,” says Pat. “More people are leaving their suits on and are bringing their dogs, radios, and beer.” But once someone starts swimming naked, others sometimes follow. For even more fun and adventure, try the lake’s rope swing (please see tips above).

Problems:

Trail sometimes overgrown; instead of a “beach,” Bass Lake is rimmed by a meadow that’s often muddy or, depending on the season, prickly; long trek; poison oak on rope swing path.

Kelham Beach

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Rating: C

Kelham Beach features a spring-fed waterfall that spills down the cliffs.  Hikers sometimes sunbathe or swim naked at the site.  Remembers visitor Michael Velkoff, who went nude there:  “Just past Arch Rock, which parallels the beach, there’s a trail that cuts through the woods on the bluff above the beach and takes you there.” The final portion of the footpath to the sand is, he adds, “about 25 yards long. At the north end of the beach, look for an arch-shaped tunnel leading to what some people call Real Secret Beach. “Visitors should use caution when visiting this beach,” warns a National Park Service site. “High tides frequently cover much of the beach.”

Legal status:

Part of Point Reyes National Seashore.

How to find it:

In Point Reyes, a 4.8 mile trek from the Bear Valley trailhead, starting at the end of the Bear Valley Parking Lot, brings hikers to an overlook above Kelham. But getting there requires more like a three-to-six hour walk of just over 8 miles via the Bear Valley Trail, which is considered the Seashore’s most popular path. You’ll go through a forest of firs and other trees that provide protection from sun, wind, and fog, next to Bear Valley Creek. The beach overlook is at Arch Rock. Follow signs to Kelham Beach, off the Kelham Beach Trail, whose cutoff, near a huge eucalyptus tree, is about .8 mile north on the Coast Trail.

The beach:

The National Park Service calls Kelham a “quiet, secluded beach.” For photos of Kelham and its waterfall, go to: www.scaruffi.com/monument/hikes07/rrey.html and Google images.

The crowd:

Probably just you and other hikers.

Problems:

Fog; wind; cold water; long hike; lack of others to help you if you fall.

Limantour Beach

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Highly Recommended!

Rating: B

At Limantour, in Point Reyes National Seashore, you can walk a mile wearing nothing but your smile.  “I just head away from any people and put my towel down in the dunes or against a wall,” says Lucas Valley’s Michael Velkoff.  “Nobody else bothers you.  Of course, I carry a pair of shorts, just in case I need to put them on.  I love it at Limantour.  Plus it has tons of nice sand.” You may also want to don a pair of binoculars for watching birds, seals, and other wildlife.  This May, Velkoff saw a whale from his vantage point on the sand; he’s also seen porpoises frolicking just offshore.

The long shoreline is one of America’s most beautiful beaches, yet few visitors realize the narrow spit of sand, between Drakes Bay and an estuary, is clothing-optional. The site is so big — about 2.5 miles in length — you can wander for hours, checking out ducks and other waterfowl, shorebirds such as snowy plovers (if you are lucky enough to see these endangered birds on the north end of the beach), gray whales (including mothers and their calves during spring), and playful harbor seals (offshore and at the north edge of the sand). Dogs are allowed on six-foot leashes on the south end of the beach.

“Usually, nobody hassles you,” says Velkoff.  “I wanted to be comfortable and I knew it was going to be hot, so I went there.  It’s a really mellow place. I just love the open space.”

Velkoff suggests walking from the parking lot for 10 minutes or several hundred feet before removing your clothes. “Where we sit, the closest person is usually 100-to-150 yards away,” he says. Another popular spot for disrobing is the sand dunes on the north end, which provide protection from the wind. Nudity is allowed, as long as it’s away from the main public areas, such as next to the parking lots of Point Reyes’ beaches. “You shouldn’t rip your clothes off right after you’ve left your car and then walk through a picnic area on the way to the beach,” former district ranger Marc Yeston has told us. “If you think a family nearby might be offended, maybe you should choose a more discreet area.”  Rangers will respond to complaints.

During another visit, Velkoff was surprised by rangers, even though he says he wasn’t near a main public area.  “My wife and I were stretched out,” he recalls.  “I turned around and there were 10-12 rangers there.  One said, ‘This is a family beach.  You gotta put your pants on.’  It turned out that it was the one day a year when all the rangers take their training tour of the beach.”

Tip: on spring weekends or warm days in the summer, arrive by 10:30 a.m. or the parking lot may be full.  Overflow parking is available a half mile away.

Legal status:

Property of Point Reyes National Seashore. Would a ranger cite a naked person lying on his or her back out of sight of others? “Probably not,” former district ranger Marc Yeston told us. “It seems about as innocuous as it can get. If somebody is away from other people, I can’t imagine it would arouse a problem with any of the rangers.”

How to find it:

From San Francisco, take Highway 101 north to the Sir Francis Drake Boulevard exit, then follow Sir Francis through San Anselmo and Lagunitas to Olema. At the intersection with Highway 1, turn right onto 1. Just north of Olema, go left on Bear Valley Road. A mile after the turnoff for the Bear Valley Visitor Center, turn left (at the Limantour Beach sign) on Limantour Road and follow it 11 miles to the parking lot at the end. Walk north a half-mile until you see some dunes about 50 yards east of the shore. Nudists usually prefer the valleys between the dunes for sunbathing. “One Sunday we had 200 yards to ourselves,” Velkoff says.  But lately, the dunes have been more crowded.

The beach:

Sprawling Limantour features soft sand, sand dunes, and plenty of wildlife. In late spring whales can often be seen. To see hundreds of seals, walk north of the “nude dunes” mentioned above until you come to the point known as Limantour Spit. Swimming is fairly safe.

The crowd:

Even with several hundred visitors on the sand on a hot weekend day, Limantour is so large that it usually looks deserted.

Problems:

Increased ranger warnings; parking lot fills early on hot days; complaints about sex; fog, cold water, and wind. If you don’t like dogs, stay away from the area south of the parking lot. (Dogs are not allowed on the north end, near the seal colony, and only on six-foot leashes on the south end.)

Sculptured Beach

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Recommended!

Rating: B

Whether you’re a naturist or not, Sculptured Beach is one of the best places to be on a warm day. From stunning views to much-cherished privacy and awesome sand, the site offers plenty of “pluses.” Plus as long as you don’t go nude near the public entrances to beaches and don’t do anything that will draw complaints, almost anything goes here and at the rest of the Point Reyes National Seashore. The beach is so big that, away from the parking lots and paths, there’s lots of space where visitors can disrobe without bothering nonnudists. To avoid fog and wind, consult forecasts before heading out. Expect a moderately long walk to good sun spots. Tip: go exploring. There’s lots to check out, including tide pools, rock formations, a blowhole, whales, dolphins, and some of California’s most beautiful sunsets.

Legal status:

Property of Point Reyes National Seashore. See ranger comments in next entry.

How to find it:

From San Francisco, take Highway 101 north to the Sir Francis Drake Boulevard exit. Then follow Sir Francis Drake through San Anselmo and Lagunitas. At the intersection with Highway 1, go north. Pick up a map at the ranger office in Olema off Highway 1, then take Limantour Road to Limantour Beach and hike three miles south, passing Coast Camp, to Sculptured Beach. Or hike seven miles from the ranger office, or battle the tides by walking south two miles along the coast from Limantour.  Two creeks wash down into the ocean between Limantour and Sculptured.

The beach:

Laced with stunning tide pools that are fun to check during low tide and backed by breathtaking cliffs, Sculptured Beach is rugged and narrow.

The crowd:

It’ll probably feel like just you and a few other people.

Problems:

Fog; wind; cold water; long hike.

 

Hagmier Pond

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Rating: A

Even though visitor Fred Jaggi found it to muddy and shallow by Memorial Day this year, the spot regulars call “The Pond” continues to attract nudists. “But it’s not really being used that much for swimming,” says Jaggi. “All along the dam face, there were sunbathers.” Socializing and gay cruising are two other common activities at The Pond. By mid-June, signs warn visitors to stay out of the water due to its high bacteria count. “I used to go there to cool off, but the water’s pretty putrid,” says Michael Velkoff. Suggests Jaggi: “If you visit after July 4, I would bring some water with you to rinse off with.” In recent years, more visits by cops, as well as warnings for public sex, have been reported.

Legal status:

Managed by Point Reyes National Seashore.

How to find it:

From Stinson Beach, go north on Highway 1, passing Audubon Canyon Ranch on the right and, a half mile later, the Bolinas turnoff. After the stand of eucalyptus trees, keep heading north, past the Dogtown Pottery sign and some sharp turns with more eucalyptus. As the road becomes straighter, look for another small group of eucalyptus. The parking area is on the west side, next to a Randall trailhead sign. At the entrance, at milepost 20.53, walk right across the meadow and you’ll see the pond. Look for sunbathing space around the dam.

The beach:

A human-made lake with limited access to the water, except near the dam. “It gets more clogged with weeds every year,” says Dave Smith, of San Leandro. When most bathers are not present, cows sometimes wander down to the water for a drink, creating possible health hazards.  Some visitors, though, say there’s been a noticeable decrease in sightings of the bovines.

The crowd:

Crowds range from a few people to several dozen, except on the warmest days (maybe two or three times a year), when up to 75 mostly nude, mostly gay men can be found; straight folks also visit.

Problems:

Muddy; lake becoming clogged with vegetation; pull-off easy to miss (heading south, if you pass Dogtown, at milepost 18, you’ve gone too far); limited access; cow manure; cold water and varying water quality; sexual activity at or near site sometimes brings rangers.

Bolinas Beach

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Rating:  B

While Bolinas Beach has had a past history of clothing-optional use, most of it has died out.  But a few bare body enthusiasts still sunbathe in the more isolated nooks and crannies of sand on the north end of the rocky shoreline. Please use this area with caution: though there haven’t been any reports of problems recently, Bolinas has an antinudity law and it’s mostly a nonnude setting of families, dogwalkers and just offshore, plenty of kayakers. And the area can be windy.

Legal status:

Part of the land is private property facing homes. Bolinas’s antinudity ordinance includes fines of up to $50 and/or a month in jail for first-time violations.

How to find it:

Starting in Stinson Beach, take Highway 1 (also known there as Shoreline Highway) north toward Calle Del Mar 4.5 miles. Bear left on Olema Bolinas Road. Follow it two miles through Bolinas, and park in town or on Ocean Parkway Avenue, which parallels the beach. Walk until you find a spot with enough sand and privacy.

The beach:

Somewhat sheltered from the wind by cliffs, Bolinas is wider than some of the nude beaches on our list but narrows as you walk farther away from the parking area. The best sand is near the cliffs. Otherwise, expect a fairly rocky shoreline.

The crowd:

On hot summer days families, out-of-towners, and suited sunbathers mingle with local naturists and kayakers. This is also a dog beach.

Problems:

Local residents sometimes distrust outsiders; not enough sand; undertow; frequent wind; cold water; and poor swimming conditions.

The Inkwell

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Rating: B

A handful of skinny-dippers sometimes joins drivers, bicyclists, and hikers in cooling off at this old-fashioned swimming hole next to Sir Francis Drake Boulevard in Lagunitas. But more likely, you won’t see them with others — they tend to go naked when nobody else is around. The Inkwells is an awesome, invigorating place to soak and recharge. The site is named for its two tublike “inkwells” of water. Best time to visit: summer weekday mornings. On weekends, the site is usually a hangout for teens, college-age youths, and other swimsuit-clad visitors. “I felt more than a little conspicuous,” says reader Larry, who decided to try the Inkwell Spillways across the street (see Elsewhere in Marin).

 

Private property next to Samuel P. Taylor State Park. “Sometimes the owners come out and shoo you away,” a park spokesperson says. “The way I understand it,” says San Geronimo’s Clay Baldwin, “he only comes when there’s a ton of people and they’re making a lot of noise.”

How to find it:

From San Anselmo, take Sir Francis Drake Boulevard west through Fairfax, Woodacre, and San Geronimo to Lagunitas. Some 1.5 miles after Lagunitas you’ll come to the green Shafer Bridge. Park on the other (west) side of the bridge as soon as it’s safe. The curve in the road is dangerous, so don’t park where it says not to. Walk back to the bridge; you’ll be able to see part of the soaking area from the road. Take the trail that starts 15 feet east of the bridge.

The beach:

The site’s stone tubs really do resemble inkwells. From the bridge, the first one you come to is a 6-foot-deep pool measuring about 15 by 20 feet across. Some 10 feet away and to the left is a smaller pool maybe 20 feet deep. “The water’s cold but not unbearable,” Baldwin says. Trees, bushes, and vines help keep most of the area fairly hidden from the road. Jumping off rocks into the water is not advised.

The Crowd:

Varies from just a few users to 25. Baldwin counted 14 visitors, split evenly between the sexes, on a warm weekday. Percentage of nude use varies, but is usually low. Often, it’s just a clothed site.

 

Problems:

Plunge over the years in nude use; No Parking and No Trespassing signs posted and difficult parking; cold water that obscures rocks; later in summer, surrounding rocks may be too hot for sunning.

Little Stinson Beach

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Rating: D

On Memorial Day, we saw streams of visitors clamboring over the rocks at the far south end of Stinson Beach into a rock-filled cove that serves as the gateway to Little Stinson, around the next point to the south — and, for research purposes, followed them as far as we could, while stopping to take photos and marvel over pieces of jadeite and agate we found along the water’s edge.

It was a windy afternoon, with only partial sunshine, but because it was a holiday the crowd on the main public beach was still impressively large. People were flying kites and making sand castles. My girlfriend spotted a bluebird in a nearby parking lot.

Tiny Little Stinson is sandwiched between Red Rock and Stinson Beach. It’s so small that the cove, which has become a hangout for a few nude gay men, is sometimes is covered by water.

“It has more rocks than sand,” says Red Rock Beach regular Fred Jaggi, of Stinson Beach. “There’s not much of a place to lie down.”

Worse yet, just getting there, over the large rocks described above is dangerous. Adults could easily trip and fall — and children are at even higher risk.

If rangers see you heading in the direction of Little Stinson, they’ll ask you to leave. Nudity is banned here and at neighboring Stinson Beach. Anyone trying to ford the often wind-whipped waves to reach the cove from Stinson risks drowning and injury.  In low tide, a few Little Stinson visitors sometimes walk to Red Rock, which also isn’t advised.

Legal status:

Part of the GGNRA’s Stinson Beach Park, where nudity is not allowed.

How to find it:

Users park in the main Stinson Beach lot and walk along the sand from the main beach in low tide or north from Red Rock Beach. Neither route is recommended.

The beach:

Mostly rocks, with dabs of sand, backed by a cave between two coves directly north of Red Rock.

The crowd:

Little Stinson only gets a few visitors. It’s almost totally a gay hangout.

Problems:

Dangerous access; rocks; high waves; law enforcement; great white sharks tend to appear in the waters off Stinson every few years.

Red Rock Beach

1

Recommended!

Rating: A

One of the most popular Bay Area nude beaches, Red Rock has struggled with sand erosion that’s left a smaller site the last few seasons, along with a more crowded feel to it and, perhaps in reaction, fewer overall visitations.

Except for being a little overgrown with vegetation in early July and some poison oak encroaching on the half nearest the highway, the beach trail, however, is reported in good shape this year. “Just wear shoes with socks, go single file in spots, and you should be okay,” advises Stinson Beach attorney/teacher Fred Jaggi.

Rock climbing (one day in June, there were 20 climbers) and various kinds of Frisbee continue to be frequent pastimes at Red Rock. “We had 10 ultimate frisbee games by mid-June, which is pretty amazing,” says Jaggi.  “And there have been lots of new players.”

Long regarded as having the friendliest local nude beach crowd, Red Rock’s ultimate frisbee games can last as long as three hours. Last summer, two more games surged to the forefront: Double Disc Court, in which you toss two Frisbees at once, and Befuddle, during which players toss the first disc softer and the second one harder.

Naked Scrabble and Nude Hearts are among the other games played by sunbathers. “It’s very peaceful at the beach,” says Jaggi. “Nobody ever brings down a large boombox.”

Tips:  the lower part of the trail sometimes is slippery, especially later in the year, so even if you’re not worried about poison oak, wear good shoes on the path instead of flip-flops. Because the beach is far smaller during high tide, visit when the tide is low (check tide tables before visiting). Or stake your claim on sitting and sunning space early in the day, before crowds arrive, and/or bring a folding beach chair with you.

Suggests Jaggi, “take a light-weight beach umbrella with you to prevent sunburns.” Foldable versions that come with slim carrying packs are avilable at retail outlets and online.

And on hot days, arrive early so that you can grab parking in one of the lots on either side of Highway 1. If you want privacy, try visiting on Monday, which is known by regulars as Club Day because it attracts the largest percentage of longtime, repeat visitors.

Legal status:

Part of Mount Tamalpais State Park. State rangers rarely make the trek up and down the beach trail. But in May 2011, two rangers showed up on the sand and snapped a few photos, which startled onlookers.  “There were 100 people on the sand,” remembers Jaggi. “Essentially, they said this isn’t legal, but just looked.” One regular visitor confronted them, saying, “you’re supposed to only come here if there’s been a complaint.”  “We can come anytime,” responded a ranger. The officers then left.

How to find it:

Go north on Highway 1 from Mill Valley, following the signs to Stinson Beach. At the long line of mailboxes next to the Muir Beach cutoff point, start checking your odometer. Look for a dirt lot full of cars to the left (west) of the highway exactly 5.6 miles north of Muir and a smaller one on the right (east) side of the road. The lots are at milepost 11.3, one mile south of Stinson Beach. Limited parking is also available 150 yards to the south on the west side of 1. Or from Mill Valley, take the West Marin/Bolinas Stage toward Stinson Beach and Bolinas. Get off at the intersection of Panoramic Highway and Highway 1. Then walk south .6 mile to the Red Rock trailhead. The path to the beach starts near the large dumpster near the main parking lot. It’s a long, steep, three to five-foot-wide trail, so take your time, especially in the middle and near the traditionally crumbly last few feet of the path, near the beach, and when walking back up.  

The beach:

Except for high tide, when it sometimes nearly disappears or has more rocks than sand, Red Rock features a quarter-mile curve of sandy shore with rocky sides.

The crowd:

Jaggi has counted “over a hundred” visitors on a few hot days. Through the end of June this year, crowds averaged about 50 people per day; there hadn’t been any 100-person days yet. During a visit last year, Jaggi spotted “almost as many women as men.” But, say other regulars, on weekends most users are men. 

Problems:

Crowded on weekends; shrinking beach size; long trail walk that is sometimes slippery; some poison oak near top of trail; past auto break-ins in parking lot; cold water, rough waves, small beach; dogs; gawking is said to have eased; a little trash (often picked up by regulars); occasional fly infestations; sign banning dogs has been removed, which irks some visitors who like to walk or play games unobstructed.

Steep Ravine Beach

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Improved directions!

Rating: C

The worst kept secret in the Bay Area, Steep Ravine Beach’s naked hot springs are only available by going down a dangerously steep, poison oak-infested trail after finding limited parking and possibly receiving a parking ticket from a ranger who loves to give them out — and then putting up with what Jenn, of Oakland, describes as a group of regular visitors who are often “rude and noisy.”

Did I mention that you’ll need to arrive in low tide? Or that you may have to put up with a large crowd jammed into the springs, which, it’s estimated can hold 15 persons easily, 30 if needed, and up to 40 when truly packed?  It’s “very crowded,” said Sam, of Belvedere, in May.

Nevertheless, Steep Ravine has its fans. “They’re mostly men,” says recent visitor Fred Jaggi.

For parking, come early and look for vehicles pulled over at the trailhead, on either side of the highway, with more space available on the west side of the road than the east. 

The trail is steep, eroded, and slippery, making falling commonplace. Because the path is not maintained, “it will never get better,” predicts a fan of nearby Red Rock, who has tried Steep Ravine a few times. And walking around the hot springs area can be even harder. “I slipped and bruised a rib against a sharp rock,” poster Tim reports at Soakersforum.com. He adds that “the only chance for an uncrowded soak is when low tide hits before 6 a.m.,” which, in near darkness, only increases the risk of falling.

Jenn, though, disagrees. She says the trail’s at least doable “for adults.”

Steep Ravine has two springs, one in the ocean and another on the cliffs. “We trick it out in the winter, meaning we remove rocks that have been pushed by the storms and waves into the springs,” says Martin, a regular visitor. 

If you see cars parked on the highway above the trail, it probably means the springs are in use. “But if you see 25 cars there, it means there are too many people there,” adds Martin. “We had way too many people one time. It was terrible.”  

The trail down from the road is so slippery that we’ve never recommended it. “It’s more like a goat trail,” explains Martin. Poison oak on the path is another concer, but, argues Jenn, at least it’s “not nearly as much as Bass Lake.” In fact, we’ve rated the site a “D” for years, but it hasn’t stopped people from trying to visit a clothing-optional hot springs that’s nearly hidden in the sea.  

Even finding the spring is quite difficult, as it’s located in the middle of the shoreline’s tidal zone. (“It’s only usable at very low tide,” says Dave of San Francisco.)

And walking along the shore isn’t much to write home about. It’s strewn with enough rocks to fill a quarry. Plus, rangers from a nearby campground occasionally cite naked people. “Some people use burlap sacks (to pile dirt) to make walls for a hot tub (around the springs),” Dave says. Bring a shovel. Leslie, of Oakland, says, “It’s a fragile place and has somewhat of a sulfur smell.” Those who are brave or foolhardy enough to attempt the journey say winter’s the best time to visit.

Finally, there are the people of Steep Ravine. Tim isn’t the only one who has fallen on the slippery rocks on the trail or near the springs, especially in the spot known as the “dressing area” above the springs. “I gave a towel to one person who was bleeding,” says Martin. “Several people have needed stitches.” Others have flipped out and suddenly “gone off mentally,” he adds. “It’s happened more than once.” Tip: visit early in the day. “You either arrive while there’s room available or have to move on to nearby Red Rock,” says Martin.

Here are some photos of the area

Legal status:

Part of Mount Tamalpais State Park. State park rangers do not tolerate nudity.

How to find it:

From Muir Beach, go north on Highway 1 about four miles, then look for the Steep Ravine campground sign; from Stinson Beach, head south two miles. Look for cars pulled over on either side of the road, even though parking is prohibited on the ocean side.  The site is near mile marker 1120.  Take the dirt road, which becomes a very long and slippery trail to the water. The spring in the sea (at latitude 37.880, longitude 122.627) is on the north end of the beach.

The beach:

Bring a beach chair to sit on the rocky shore, whose main lure is its pristine ruggedness.

The crowd:

Usually just you and one or two other folks. But up to 40 visitors may be found during peak-use periods. For more information, please see above.

Problems:

Extremely dangerous trail, sometimes with poison oak; numerous incidents of people falling on slippery rocks; possible law enforcement; poor parking; cars often ticketed for illegal parking; poison oak; springs often inactive or covered by rocks or debris; no sand for sunbathing; proximity to clothed families at nearby campground; occasional reports of gawkers.

Muir Beach

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Highly Recommended!

Rating: A

Mellow times are continuing at one of the Bay Area’s easiest to reach and most enjoyable clothing-optional sites, the clothing-optional north side of Muir Beach.  Also known as Little Beach, it’s separated by the main public beach by a line of large rocks that visitors usually walk over.

Says Lucas Valley’s Michael Velkoff, who switched from Red Rock to become one of more than a dozen regulars at Muir:  “This season, there’s plenty of nice sand.  It’s also a great place for women because people leave you alone here. Nobody’s hitting on you. And high tide only comes a third of the way up the beach.”

Additions over the last year or two include a new bridge over a marshy, lagoon-like area near the parking lot, plus about a half dozen Port-a-Potties.

According to authorities, there have not been any arrests or warnings for nudity since at least July 2010, which followed a controversy the previous year over whether clothing-optional use of the area should be halted.

After several community meetings, it was decided that while beachgoers’ bare buns wouldn’t be banned, a warning sign stressing “respect” for everyone and listing a phone number for complaints would be erected there.

Visits by deputies resulted in only four complaints about skinny-dippers and one citation for improper sexual conduct in 2009. Lt. Cheryl Fisher, commander of the Marin Sheriff’s Department’s substation in Marin City, says that even when people complain, they are usually no longer nude by the time deputies arrive.  “A deputy showed up on a very hot Sunday,” says Velkoff.  “As soon as he left, everybody was naked again.”

The beautiful, curve-shaped cove usually features a diverse crowd, better than average swimming conditions, and very easy access.  Instead of having to trudge down a beach trail, users walk less than five minutes along the shore from the public portion of the beach, called Big Beach, to the nude end. Tip: on warm days, arrive by 11am to find parking in the main lot.

Legal status:

According to the Marin County Assessor-Recorder’s Office,  Little Beach consists of seven privately owned parcels off Cove Lane, in Muir Beach, up to the tidal zone, owned by Sigward Moser; Jason Weisberger and Carolyn Patterson; a trust of Erica and Madeline Groneman; the Elliott Theodore family; Christine and Kenneth High; a trust of Arlene Robertson; and the Nature Conservancy. A community meeting in June 2009 sparked concerns over nudity, sexual acts, such as masturbation, and alleged “intimidation” by nudists — and what, if anything, should be done about the situation. Most of the 50 or so neighbors at the gathering appeared to be in favor of continuing to allow clothing-optional use, but some felt warning signs about perceived illegal activity should go up and others spoke in favor of a ban on nudity. Deputies said regular patrols — but not specific anti-nudity visits — would likely be increased. In 2001, reports of littering, defecation and sexual actions resulted in 20 public nudity citations and dozens of warnings over seven months. And in 1982, deputies made raids on nude sunbathers after receiving complaints about public sex and assaults on women.

How to find it:

From San Francisco, take Highway 1 north to Muir Beach, to milepost 5.7. Turn left on Pacific Way and park in the Muir lot (don’t park on Pacific, even if you see cars there — by the end of the day, they’ll probably all be ticketed). Or park on the long street off Highway 1 across from Pacific and about 100 yards north. From the Muir lot, follow a path and boardwalk to the sand, then walk north to a pile of rocks between the cliffs and the sea. You’ll need good hiking or walking shoes to cross; in very low tide, try to cross closer to the water. The nude area starts north of it.

The beach:

A small, lovely semicircular cove with, in most years, excellent sand for suntanning, reading, and picnicking.  “You can easily swim there,” says Velkoff.  “There usually aren’t any big waves.  But it can also get windy there.”

The crowd:

On a weekday in June this year, about 20 people were on the sand. But expect more than 100 visitors on warmer summer days. Usually, though, summer Sundays produce a crowd of 30-40 persons. Straights, gays, singles, couples, families, seniors, young people, and others share Muir, which has a less social atmosphere than nearby Red Rock. “It’s usually a quiet place,” says Velkoff. “But I still make friends there right away.”

Problems:

Increased scrutiny by local homeowners has resulted in calls to deputies and, in some cases, citations or warnings; complaints about sexual behavior; gawkers; dogs; wind; parking lot jams up early on warm days.

 

Coyote Beach

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Rating: C

A beautiful ribbon of sand just south of Muir Beach and west of the coastal overlook known as Coyote Ridge has started to attract clothing-optional users. “I’ve gone three or four times with my girlfriend, who’s been visiting it for years,” says Alex Towery, of San Rafael. “It’s a little sandy cove and beach.” The hill is the first one south of the Muir Beach parking lot. Two paths lead up the hill; one, called the Coyote Ridge Trail, is just east of the slope’s ocean-facing edge, while another is between the first trail and the sea. To find this rugged, usually deserted beach, take the latter path over several ridges for about 20 minutes to the beckoning, beautiful sea.

Legal status:

Unknown.

How to find it:

From San Francisco, take Highway 1 north to Muir Beach, to milepost 5.7. Turn left on Pacific Way and park in the Muir lot (don’t park on Pacific, even if you see cars there — by the end of the day they’ll probably all be ticketed). Or park on the long street off Highway 1 across from Pacific and about 100 yards north. From the Muir lot, turn left (south) and walk to the end of the public beach. “Then,” suggests Towery, “take the trail that starts there along the hillside, but don’t go all the way up the hill. Instead, look for a path that’s just to the west of the first trail and follow it as it goes up and over two hills. It’s kind of steep in parts. You can get a great view at the top of the hills. You hike for maybe 20 minutes, and then it finally goes down to a spot where it levels off and isn’t so steep, and the trail takes you down to the beach.”

The beach:

Small but sandy. “I’ve gone swimming there, but it’s pretty cold,” adds Towery. “Just be careful of the big rocks that are on the right [north] side of the beach.”

The crowd:

Often deserted, Coyote occasionally draws hikers who wander down its trail to the water.

Problems:

Unknown legal status; steep trail; needs better directions; cold water.

South Rodeo Beach

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Rating: C

Cold, windy South Rodeo Beach is located just south of the public Rodeo Beach. Some naturists, though, occassionally brave the weather and show up on the sand, which, when it happens, tends to startle the tourists who are also there. A great “plus” for visitors: the beach faces the Pacific, which gives users a great view of the horizon; most other beaches in Sausalito look out to San Francisco Bay.

Legal status:

Part of the GGNRA.

How to find it:

Follow directions to Kirby Cove (see above), but at the first juncture after Conzelman Drive becomes two-way, ignore the beach sign and bear left. When you come to the lighthouse turnoff, go right. At the next turnoff to your left, after the white building, is a dirt parking lot for Battery Alexander. Park here. On the west (ocean) side of the lot, look for a sandy, somewhat slippery quarter-mile-long path to the beach that leads you downhill to the left, past a “no fires” sign. According to Scott Marovich, the quarter mile long trail is “narrow but not difficult.” Others find the path hard because of its mix of rocks and sand.

The beach:

South Rodeo is a west-facing cove that’s often cold and windy.

The crowd:

There are small numbers of nudists and suited users, plus a few tourists who wander down the path.

Problems:

Weather (see above); sandy and somewhat slippery path; swimming not advised.

Black Sand Beach

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Rating: C

Naturists occasionally visit this clothing-optional site, even though its trail is officially shut. In fact, readers say the days of having to scramble down the last 50 feet of the path are over. “There’s a 60-foot-long staircase,” says East Bay resident Trevor Murphy. “It’s so easy that you could take your grandmother.” At least one reader, though, thought it was harder going down the hill than the trail at Red Rock.

Legal status:

Part of GGNRA. Trail officially closed. Please see Kirby Cove listing (above) for policy details.

How to find it:

Follow the directions for Kirby, but instead of stopping at the parking lot that’s 0.4 mile up the road, look for one 3.56 miles from the start of Conzelman. After Kirby, continue up Conzelman to the top, where the road becomes one-way and goes downhill. Go slow here. As the road begins to flatten out, just past a guardrail on the left, check for a parking lot with a toilet. The beach trail starts here; it sometimes has poison oak on the sides. On a warm winter day, Murphy once found the trail “was very muddy.” Don’t stray from the path; two hikers were injured and had to be rescued when they did so in 1998. To exit from the parking lot, go west on Conzelman half a mile, turn right on Field Road and again on Bunker Road. Follow it through the Barry-Baker tunnel under Highway 101; turn right on Alexander Avenue to 101.

The beach:

A cove that’s around a half-mile long and 12 to 15 feet wide. On windy days, some visitors “insert themselves in (rocky) wind-protected alcoves,” reports Murphy.

The crowd:

Black Sand’s getting a mixture of users, both nude and suited, with gay male singles usually outnumbering hetero couples. Murphy stopped by once with his wife and another time by himself. “People weren’t very sociable,” he says. And Rich Pasco, leader of the Bay Area Naturists, says he was once part of “the only heterosexual pair” on the east end of the beach, facing the Golden Gate Bridge. “Everyone was naked.” Close to the trail’s end, he found a few swimsuit-wearing families.

Problems:

Trail officially closed; some poison oak; reports of sex on the beach in previous years; at all of the Sausalito coves, you may encounter trash, gawkers, and water that is sometimes too cold and swift for swimming.

Kirby Cove

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Rating: C

Even though the paths to five nude beaches in the Sausalito area have been officially closed by federal authorities for years, due to lack of maintenance funds, it hasn’t stopped nude and suited sunbathers from using them. GGNRA rangers like Terry Swift say they’re “not recommended” because of the trail “scrambling” that’s sometimes is required to reach the sand. But readers have reported that several of the sites, all of which are off Conzelman, are in relatively good shape.

Legal status:

Please note that the trail here is officially closed. “We don’t have enough rangers to post somebody there 24 hours a day, seven days a week,” says supervising ranger Richard Danielsen, of the GGNRA, which administers the land.” Some people do go down there, they get back up (the trail), and they don’t get hurt. Other times, people do get hurt there.” 

How to find it:

To visit Kirby from San Francisco, cross the Golden Gate Bridge and take the Alexander Avenue exit off Highway 101. Instead of driving toward Sausalito, go under the highway and up into the headlands on Conzelman, four-tenths of a mile up the hill to the parking lot on the left with chemical toilets. Walk at your own risk down the winding dirt road (blocked to cars by a metal gate) that leads from there to the beach.

The beach:

Kirby is a narrow, quarter-mile-long beach that’s more exposed and somewhat smaller than Red Rock (also in Marin County listings). Expect sand mixed with pebbles. Swimming isn’t suggested.

The crowd:

Nearly all nude visitors or mixed between nudists and suited visitors. On hot summer days when the tide is out, nude use can be as high as 90 percent.

Problems:

Too many pebbles; hazardous swimming conditions; trail problems (see above); hard to find (drive slowly)

Fort Funston Beach

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Rating: C

What’s the only Golden Gate National Recreation Area park where you can walk your dog without a leash, as well as the spot where the world record (1,333 feet by Erin Hemmings) for the farthest tossed object (a flying ring) was set in 2003? Answer: Fort Funston, which is affectionately called Fort Fun by its fans. Known for its magnetic sand, steady winds (especially in March and October) that make its cliffs popular for hang gliding, and, in particular, its dogs, who appear here with their human escorts by the hundreds, the area even attracts a few naturists from time to time. Mostly hidden away in the sand dunes on the beach, naked sunbathers usually stay away on the weekends, when families swarm the area. To keep the “fun” in Fort Funston, even on weekdays, be sure to use caution before disrobing. Translation: you should suit up quickly if you see rangers or families in the area. Authorities usually only issue several citations a year at Fort Funston, south of Ocean Beach, so, if you don’t make a fuss and remain in the dunes, you may not be busted. If anyone complains, put on your beach gear right away.

Oh, and about that world record: Hemmings, of Mendocino, became the first person to ever throw something unassisted over a quarter of a mile. He’d visited Fort Funston twice, from Mendo, to prepare himself for sending his Aerobie disc, invented by Stanford’s Alan Adler, into the air. Adler was offering a $1,000 prize to anyone who could break the previous world record of 1,257 feet, which had been set in 1986. Witnesses reported the disc sailed straight along the edge of the cliff for a whopping 30 seconds. Just to make sure, Hemmings’ achievement was checked with a measuring device four times.

Legal status:

Part of the GGNRA, which issues citations if rangers see you nude or receive complaints.

How to find it:

From San Francisco, head west to Ocean Beach, then go south on the Great Highway. After Sloat Boulevard, the road goes uphill. From there, curve right onto Skyline Boulevard, go past one stoplight, and look for signs for Funston on the right. Turn into the public lot and find a space near the west side. At the southwest end, take the sandy steps to the beach, turn right, and walk to the dunes. Find a spot as far as possible from the parking lot. Do not go nude here on the weekends, and if you don’t like dogs, go elsewhere.

The beach:

Fluffy, soft sand dunes where you can find shelter from the wind and fashion your own nude beach.

The crowd:

As you exit your car in the lot, the first thing you’ll notice are all the dogs. Funston is a gathering place for the pooches and their human pals. Hang gliders from a nearby glider port and horseback riders from a local rental stable are other common sights. A few naturists sometimes use the beach on weekdays.

Problems:

Lack of tolerance by rangers; privacy problems

Golden Gate Bridge Beach

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Rating: A

On the hottest days, Golden Gate Bridge Beach becomes so packed with people that one visitor describes it as a “gay mob scene.” But the rocky shore, which connects three picturesque coves, also gets its share of straight men and women. Prime, non-cruising activities include sunbathing, enjoying breathtaking views of the Bridge, and even taking some dips in the water. “You can sometimes go out over 100 feet during low tide,” says a woman.

Legal status: 

Part of the GGNRA.

How to find it:

Directions: from the toll booth area of Highway 101/1, take Lincoln Boulevard west about a half mile to Langdon Court. Turn right (west) on Langdon and look for space in the parking lots, across Lincoln from Fort Winfield Scott. Park and then take the beach trail, starting just west of the end of Langdon, down its more than 200 steps to Golden Gate Bridge Beach, also known as Marshall’s Beach.

The beach:

A trio of adjacent coves located below Fort Scott provide an easy view of San Francisco’s most famous landmark and the beach’s namesake: the Golden Gate Bridge. Despite recent improvements, the trail to the beach can still be slippery, especially in the spring and winter.

The crowd:

“On weekends, you feel like a piece of meat on display,” a male visitor told us. Most users take their suits off, while joining up to 100 or more other naked people, including small but growing numbers of heterosexuals. It can get even more crowded: several times a year, as many as 300 bare bodies try to find space on the sand. Suggestion: visit during the week, when you may encounter only a few dozen beachgoers.

Problems:

Too many people jammed into too little space; not enough sand; garbage; wind and fog; cold water; unsafe swimming conditions; muddy cliff trails; and sex on the beach.

North Baker Beach

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Rating: A

Social activists have begun streaming onto the sand of America’s biggest urban nude beach, creating what visitor Santosh calls “a tone that’s like Burning Man,” with regulars bringing guitars, drums, and Frisbees to the sand, putting up art work best described as eclectic, and occasionally staring down gawkers.

“There’s no requirement that you go nude,” says Santosh, an artist, graphic artist, and producer of San Francisco’s How Weird Street Faire, an outdoor street fair held each year in the SoMa neighborhood as a fundraiser for the World Peace Through Technology Organization. “But if a creeper dude plops down next to a (nude) person or if they are staring at someone’s private parts and it’s happening close to where we are, on the far north end (of North Baker), then they will start being the object of ridicule.”

“But it’s done in a nonconfrontational way,” he adds. “Our approach is like the Jedi Mind Tricks (in “Star Wars”). Pretty soon they get it and leave.”

Self-policing of the beach isn’t the only change happening at Baker. Art work has also been springing up. Included in an array of driftwood projects taking shape in the clothing-optional area of the beach is a 10 foot tall object that Santosh calls a “seaweed art tree.” “I keep adding new seaweed,” he says, “but don’t worry, the seaweed doesn’t really smell after it dries. It’s really trippy. People stop by to photograph it. Others are constantly asking me what it is and why I’d spend all year working on it, which is greatly satisfying to hear. That’s what being an artist is all about.”

Nearby are up to 10 shade structures dubbed “dunies” by regulars. Similar to tents without walls, each is made by affixing a bedsheet to the top of four driftwood sticks and another bedsheet to the bottom. “I sometimes invite people into my duney to get out of the sun,” says Santosh, who lives about 20 blocks from the beach. “We even have a driftwood bar. It’s like a day at Club Med.”

Not everyone likes the newly emerging beach community at Baker. “They demand tolerance,” says one detractor who wanted to remain anonymous, “but if you disagree with them, they come across as very close-minded.”

“They even changed the rules to make the beach volleyball games less competitive,” adds the visitor. “They lowered the net because they felt it was too high for some players. And they give women another serve if they fail to get it over the net, but don’t do the same for men.”

Whatever the case, like everywhere else, things are continuing to evolve at Baker, where “duney” isn’t the only new term on the sand. Another is “Baker Day,” which is described as being any day when the sun’s out and it’s not overly windy.

“The threshold is really 68 degrees,” says Santosh. “Of the 100 or so days a year I go to the beach, maybe only 30-40 are primo Baker Days.”

Legal status:

Part of the GGNRA. See Land’s End entry for policy.

How to find it:

Take the 29 Sunset bus or go north on 25th Avenue to Lincoln Boulevard. Turn right and take the second left onto Bowley Street. Follow Bowley to Gibson Road, turn right, and follow Gibson to the east parking lot. Head right on the beach to the nude area, which starts at the brown and yellow “Hazardous surf, undertow, swim at your own risk” sign. Some motorcycles in the lot have been vandalized, possibly by car owners angered by bikers parking in car spaces; to avoid trouble, motorcyclists are urged to park in the motorcycle area near the cyclone fence.

The beach:

A long, narrow beach. If you have a moment, be sure to check out Baker’s “secret spot”: its intriguing tide pools! They’re tucked away at the north end of the beach. Access is possible only during low tide, so consult a tide table and then, to find them, walk around the big rocks at the northern tip of the nude beach. Also at the far north end of the north portion of the beach: most of the beach’s regular visitors. According to some users, a so-called “bubble effect” significantly magnifies temperatures at the far end of Baker, giving it a micro-climate that is warmer than much of the rest of The City.

The crowd:

On the hottest afternoons, over 100 persons visit North Baker. “We get maybe 50-70 people on an average good day,” estimates Santosh. On afternoons that are warm but not hot, the beach usually draws 30-40 regular visitors, plus a few newbies. While more women than ever are on the sand, there’s still a heavy male to female ratio at Baker, where you’ll find a wide range of humanity, from lawyers with neither business suits nor swim suits to job seekers who aren’t dressed for success or anything else and retirees who have retired their clothing. “You’ll see young people, older types, men, women, Bay Area residents, tourists, gays, and straights,” says former Baker veteran Ray Brokowski. Adds a beach regular: “It’s like the cantina in the first Star Wars.” 

Problems:

Fog; wind; parking lots fill early; some gawkers (especially in the afternoon); large crowds on hot days; sand may be very hot; hazardous waves; cold water; increased visits by rangers in 2008 and 2009 after several reports of sexual activity in the beach bathroom and near middle Baker, where the nude area begins.

Land’s End Beach

1

Rating: A

Considered one of the most beautiful places in the Bay Area to doff your togs, Land’s End should really be called Swimsuit’s End.The reason:although it draws more clothed users than nudists, more than a few swim tops and bottoms magically “disappear” on warm spring, summer, and fall days at the little cove off Geary Boulevard.

Come early to grab your share of the sand on this semi-rocky shoreline, which is sometimes dotted with rock-lined windbreaks left by previous sunbathers.Bring a light jacket or sweatshirt in case the weather changes.

Legal status:

Part of the Golden Gate National Recreation Area (GGNRA), which has a benign attitude toward nudists — as long as nobody complains and you don’t touch anyone.Rangers sometimes visit the area on foot and horseback.They’ve made arrests for sexual activity on the beach and in the bushes off the trail.

How to find it:

Follow Geary Boulevard to the end, then park in the dirt lot up the road from the Cliff House. Take the trail at the far end of the lot. About 100 yards past a bench and some trash cans, the path narrows and bends, rises, and falls, eventually becoming the width of a road. Don’t take the road to the right, which leads to a golf course. Just past another bench, as the trail turns right, go left toward a group of dead trees where you will see a stairway and a “Dogs must be leashed” sign. Descend and head left to another stairway, which leads to a 100-foot walk to the cove. Or, instead, take the service road below the El Camino del Mar parking lot 1/4 mile until you reach a bench, then follow the trail there. It’s eroded in a few places. At the end, you’ll have to scramble over rocks. 

The beach:

A quarter mile long beach with some nice sunbathing nooks.At the bottom of the trail, turn left (west) and walk until you find a good place to put down your towel. “There are rocks for sunbathing but there are also patches of sand away from where you enter the beach,” says beach regular Joseph Friday.For extra wind protection, many visitors use rocks on the beach to make their own mini-windbreaks.

The crowd:

Usually six to 10 visitors, but on the hottest days, there may be as many as 30 people. A mix of gay males and others use the site. 

Problems:

The walk down is fairly long; random “sex patrols” by rangers; reports of drug use; public sex on trails and nearby; fog and wind; rocky; swimming not allowed; trails other than main one are unsafe, may be closed, and/or have poison oak.

Nude Beaches Guide 2014

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garhan@aol.com

NUDE BEACHES 2014 Well, it’s been 40 years since I turned over on my side and asked a totally naked woman at Red Rock nude beach, near Stinson Beach, if she knew of any other clothing-optional beaches in Northern California.

Don’t worry, she didn’t slap me. Jane and I were on our third date — we’d met at a bus stop in downtown Berkeley — which she had casually suggested take place at the beach. “Sure, where’d you like to go?” I asked. “How about Red Rock?” she replied. “Red Rock?” I asked. “I’ve never heard of it.” “It’s a nude beach,” responded Jane.

I didn’t want to sound like a wuss, so, I immediately agreed — and about an hour later, we were walking down a long, moderately steep trail that led us to a beautiful cove. When we arrived, I couldn’t believe what I saw: dozens of people clothed only in their birthday suits. They acted as if being stark naked was no big deal. And so did Jane. She threw down a towel, immediately stripped down, and asked if I would put some sun tan lotion on her back. 

It was a beautiful summer day. People were enjoying themselves. Some were reading, while others were sunning, walking, wading in the chilly but invigorating surf, playing Frisbee, or socializing with friends. Pretty soon, I took off my swimsuit too. Around 30 minutes later, when my eyeballs began to recede back into their sockets, I started wondering how many other nude beaches were in the Bay Area. Jane knew of a half dozen and suggested I speak with her roommates. “They probably know about four or five more,” she said.

And that’s how the annual Bay Guardian Nude Beach Guide was born. From covering a dozen or so beaches, lakes, ponds, skinny-dipping holes, and other clothing-optional spots in 1975, we’ve soared to 130 today, when you include our listings online at www.sfbg.com. They include places where you can camp nude (North Garberville, in Humboldt County), take off your clothes at a waterfall (Alamere Falls, near Bolinas), soak in hot springs (Sykes, near Big Sur, and Steep Ravine, in Marin County), play bare-bottom volleyball (San Francisco’s North Baker Beach), or sunbathe naked at a state park (Gray Whale Cove, in San Mateo County).

Who knows, maybe someday we’ll be able to get everything from sundaes to massages on a nude beach, like those offered at sprawling Haulover Nude Beach, just north of Miami, Fla., which I checked out in June. It draws up to 7,000 visitors a day. The site is part of a park that also has a non-nude beach and even a separate dog play area.

In the meantime, we’ve got plenty of clothing-optional recreation choices right here, especially with the reopening of the nude section of Muir Beach, which, along with the main part of the beach, was closed most of last summer and part of the fall. Want to hike naked through the East Bay hills, guided by a member of the Bay Area Naturists group? America’s only “Full Moon Hikes” will continue this season with a walk starting in Castro Valley on Aug. 10 (see our listing below for Las Trampas under Contra Costa County for details). In Lake Tahoe, at Secret Harbor Creek Beach (also in the Internet version of our guide), you can take part in an “only wear a hat” day Aug. 17. And on Sept. 20, fans of Santa Cruz’s popular Bonny Doon Beach will be getting together to help remove trash from the sand.

Speaking of help, to help beachgoers and naturists, please send me your new beach discoveries, trip reports, and improved directions (especially road milepost numbers), along with your phone number to garhan@aol.com or Gary Hanauer, c/o San Francisco Bay Guardian, 835 Market, Suite 550, San Francisco, CA 94103.

Our ratings: “A” stands for a beach that is large or well-established and where the crowd is mostly nude; “B” signifies a spot where fewer than half the visitors are nude; “C” indicates a small or emerging nude area; and “D” depicts places that are in use, but not recommended.

 

SAN FRANCISCO

NORTH BAKER BEACH, SAN FRANCISCO

RATING: A

Complete with nude volleyball that’s open to anyone, driftwood “art trees” (last year’s was called Sea Hag), and occasional live music performed by beachgoers — mostly guitar and drums — almost anything goes on the north end of Baker, where the atmosphere is playful and increasingly social. Over the winter, storms washed away a chunk of the sand (which is starting to return) and all the wooden objects. But Baker’s regular visitors, led by the local street fair organizer who prefers to be called Santosh, have erected a new tree. If you join in a game on the sand, don’t expect the rules to necessarily be the same ones you followed as a kid. For example, it’s considered fair and in play if a ball touches one of the site’s driftwood poles. Of course, you don’t need to do anything at Baker — it’s a great place to relax and be yourself. Or you could go exploring! For a treat, wait until low tide and try finding the beach’s “secret” tidepools by walking around the big rocks at the far north side of the beach. One thing that’s not tolerated at Baker: gawkers. “People let them know we don’t like it,” says Santosh. “We want to keep things mellow.”

Directions: Take the 29 Sunset bus or go north on 25th Avenue to Lincoln Boulevard. Turn right and take the second left onto Bowley Street. Follow Bowley to Gibson Road, turn right, and follow Gibson to the east parking lot. At the beach, head right to the nude area, which starts at the brown and yellow “Hazardous surf, undertow, swim at your own risk” sign. Some motorcycles in the lot have been vandalized, possibly by car owners angered by bikers parking in car spaces; to avoid trouble, motorcyclists should park in the motorcycle area near the cyclone fence. Parking at Lincoln’s 100 or more nearby parking spaces is limited to two hours.

 

LANDS END BEACH, SAN FRANCISCO

RATING: A

Want to star in your own picture-perfect postcard? Lands End’s lovely vistas are just the start of an outing you may wish to call Swim Suit’s End. Law enforcers seldom visit the cove off Geary Boulevard, where some visitors doff their togs, often to the surprise of tourists who walk down the beach path, hoping for some good photo opportunities. The site is super small, so on summer weekends, try to stake out a claim to some towel space by late morning. For the best sand, use one of the unoccupied rock-lined windbreaks traditionally made by previous visitors or look for a dab of soft soil further away from the beach entrance. Bring a sweatshirt for sudden fog or wind.

Directions: Follow Geary Boulevard to the end, then park in the dirt lot up the road from the Cliff House. Take the trail at the far end of the lot. About 100 yards past a bench and some trash cans, the path narrows and bends, then rises and falls, eventually becoming the width of a road. Don’t take the road to the right, which leads to a golf course. Just past another bench, as the trail turns right, go left toward a group of dead trees where you will see a stairway and a “Dogs must be leashed” sign. Descend and head left to another stairway, which leads to a 100-foot walk to the cove. Or, instead, take the service road below the El Camino del Mar parking lot 1/4 mile until you reach a bench, then follow the trail there. It’s eroded in a few places. At the end, you’ll have to scramble over some rocks. Turn left (west) and walk until you find a good place to put down your towel.

 

GOLDEN GATE BRIDGE BEACH, SAN FRANCISCO

RATING: A

On hot summer days, Golden Gate Bridge Beach’s mix of rocks and sand swarms with dozens or even hundreds of gay males. You can also find others here too, either sunbathing or enjoying dips in the usually cold surf. If you’re brave enough to swim here, please use caution: the area’s known for its riptides. Three side-by-side coves line the somewhat rocky shoreline, so if you want to do a little exploring, feel free. And don’t forget to look up and soak in a view of the glistening edifice for which the beach is named.

Directions: From the toll booth area of Highway 101/1, take Lincoln Boulevard west about a half mile to Langdon Court. Turn right (west) on Langdon and look for space in the parking lots, across Lincoln from Fort Winfield Scott. Park and then take the beach trail, starting just west of the end of Langdon, down its more than 200 steps to Golden Gate Bridge Beach, also known as Marshall’s Beach. Despite recent improvements, the trail to the beach can still be slippery, especially in the spring and winter.

 

FORT FUNSTON BEACH, SAN FRANCISCO

RATING: C

Barely a bare beach, we include “Fort Fun,” as some naturists call it, in our listings because a few diehard suitless sunbathers can occasionally be found on the shore, hidden between some of the dunes. You’ll likely be busted or given a warning, though, if a ranger spots your naked body or if somebody uses their cell phone to call in a complaint. Weekdays are the best times to avoid hassles from authorities, but you should still be prepared to suit up fast. Did we mention the dogs? If you like them, then be prepared for a nice bonus: The cliffs above the beach attract a never-ending parade of pooches and their human companions.

Directions: From San Francisco, go west to Ocean Beach, then south on the Great Highway. After Sloat Boulevard, the road heads uphill. From there, curve right onto Skyline Boulevard, go past one stoplight, and look for signs for Funston on the right. Turn into the public lot and find a space near the west side. At the southwest end, take the sandy steps to the beach, turn right, and walk to the dunes. Find a spot as far as possible from the parking lot.

 

CONTRA COSTA COUNTY

LAS TRAMPAS REGIONAL WILDERNESS, CASTRO VALLEY

RATING: C

Have you ever been on a naked hike — at night? Now’s your chance to sign something off your Bucket List that you probably never knew should be on it: taking a guided walk by the light of the silvery moon — and your flashlight — along a somewhat challenging, but, participants say, “doable” East Bay ridge just after sunset and then returning for a dip in the hot tub of the Sequoians Naturist Club, in Castro Valley. These “Full Moon Hikes” usually take place in July, August, and September (next one is Aug. 10) with a potluck held at the club before Dave Smith, of the Bay Area Naturists group, takes fully clothed walkers up a trail just as darkness begins to fall. When the moon rises, the hikers come back down the path — usually naked, with their duds stored in their backpacks, after what some trekkers describe as an epic, almost spiritual adventure.

Directions: Contact the Sequoians (www.sequoians.com) or the Bay Area Naturists (www.bayareanaturists.org) for details on how to join a walk. Meet at the Sequoians. To get there, take Highway 580 east to the Crow Canyon Road exit. Or follow 580 west to the first Castro Valley off-ramp. Take Crow Canyon Road toward San Ramon 0.75 mile to Cull Canyon Road. Then follow Cull Canyon Road around 6.5 miles to the end of the paved road. Take the dirt road on the right until the “Y” in the road and keep left. Shortly after, you’ll see The Sequoians sign. Proceed ahead for about another 0.75 mile to The Sequoians front gate.

 

SAN MATEO COUNTY

DEVIL’S SLIDE, MONTARA

RATING: A

A state park that tolerates nude sunbathing? It’s not officially designated that way, but officials in charge of Gray Whale Cove remain steadfast in their toleration of nudies, some of whom have been coming here for decades, as long as complaints are not received. Even if phoned-in objections were received, it’s doubtful whether rangers, who are seldom present, could reach the sand in time to catch an offender. Over the last few years, GWC, more commonly known as Devil’s Slide, has been attracting so many visitors to its 100-yard long seashore that park staff recently added a second parking lot. But only one in every two or three dozen people go nude on the north end of the stunning shoreline, which draws tourists from around the world. You’ll usually find plenty of space here, even on a hot summer day.

Directions: Driving from San Francisco, take Highway 1 south through Pacifica. Three miles south of the Denny’s restaurant in Linda Mar, at 500 Linda Mar Blvd., Pacifica, and just past and south of the Tom Lantos Tunnels, turn left (inland or east) on an unmarked road, which takes you to the beach’s parking lots on the east and west sides of the highway and to a 146-step staircase that leads to the sand. Coming from the south on Highway 1, look for a road on the right (east), 1.2 miles north of the old Chart House restaurant in Montara. Most naturists use the north end of the beach, which is separated by rocks from the rest of the shore. Wait until low tide to make the crossing to the nude area. Otherwise, you may face waves crashing against you, which could cause you to slip and lose your footing.

 

SAN GREGORIO NUDE BEACH, SAN GREGORIO

RATING: A

Nearly 50 years old, the USA’s longest-operating clothing optional beach is located next to, but remains distinctly different from San Gregorio State Beach. For a view of conditions, check out its web cam at www.freewebs.com/sangregoriobeach. Skinny-dippers started flocking here by 1966 after a “Committee For Free Beaches” was formed by a San Francisco State College student who, along with a few pals, distributed fliers at colleges in the San Francisco Bay Area announcing the start of a “free beach,” as they called it. Soon, up to 500 persons were showing up on the sand on weekends. A court case to try to stop the venture failed, but that hasn’t stopped the private operation from remaining controversial. The main rub: Not everyone likes the driftwood structures on the slope leading down to the beach (a T-shirt hanging from a pole means the site is occupied), where open sex often occurs. Catering to mostly gay visitors, both nude and nonnude straight couples, singles, and families also visit the huge beach.

Directions: From San Francisco, drive south on Highway 1, past Half Moon Bay, and, between mileposts 18 and 19, look on the right side of the road for telephone call box number SM 001 0195, at the intersection of Highway 1 and Stage Road, and near an iron gate with trees on either side. From there, expect a drive of 1.1 miles to the entrance. At the Junction 84 highway sign, the beach’s driveway is just .1 mile away. Turn into a gravel driveway, passing through the iron gate mentioned above, which says 119429 on the gatepost. Drive past a grassy field to the parking lot, where you’ll be asked to pay an entrance fee. Take the long path from the lot to the sand; everything north of the trail’s end is clothing-optional (families and swimsuit-using visitors tend to stay on the south end of the beach). The beach is also accessible from the San Gregorio State Beach parking area to the south; from there, hike about a half-mile north. Take the dirt road past the big white gate with the Toll Road sign to the parking lot.

 

SANTA CRUZ COUNTY

GARDEN OF EDEN, FELTON

RATING: C

Nude spelled backwards is Edun, so it’s little wonder that California’s Garden of Eden would attract scads of clothing-optional users. It’s located on the San Lorenzo River between San Jose and Santa Cruz. Nudity is technically illegal in Henry Cowell Redwoods State Park, where this creekside skinnydipper’s delight is nestled. Not everyone likes the nudists, who often shock the many swimsuit-wearing visitors who like to take a dip here on hot days. Other bummers include slippery, poison oak-lined trails and surprise visits by rangers. To discover your own personal Eden and several other nude swimming holes, as you drive north along Highway 9 near Fulton look for cars pulled over on the side of the road. Directions: From Santa Cruz, drive north on Highway 9 and look for turnouts on the right side of the road, where cars are pulled over. The first, a wide turnout with a tree in the middle, is just north of Santa Cruz. Rincon Fire Trail starts about where the tree is, according to reader Robert Carlsen, of Sacramento. The many forks in the trail all lead to the river, down toward Big Rock Hole and Frisbee Beach; Carlsen says the best area off this turnout can be reached by bearing left until the end of the trail. Farther up the highway, 1.3 miles south of the park entrance, is the second and bigger pullout, called the Ox Trail Turnout, leading to Garden of Eden. Park in the turnout and follow the dirt fire road downhill and across some railroad tracks. Head south, following the tracks, for around 0.5 miles. Look for a “Pack Your Trash” sign with park rules and hours and then proceed down the Eden Trail. Or, about three miles south of the park entrance, look for a dirt parking lot, park there, and take the path from there to some beaches that attract fewer people than the Garden.

 

BONNY DOON NUDE BEACH, BONNY DOON

RATING: A

Fans of this beautiful cove were pleased to learn last year that state officials plan to allow nudity, unless there are complaints, to continue on the north end of the beach, despite warning signs that were erected but taken down just a few weeks later. A big rock separates the clothing-optional side of the shore from the area traditionally used by families and other clothed visitors to the south. While some visitors joke on social media message boards about the increase in gray-haired beachgoers on the sand (a Redwood City woman recently told Yelp the beach needs “some hot dudes” and a female from San Jose compared the women there to those on the “Golden Girls” tv show), others have posted more serious remarks about the gawkers and rude males who occasionally show up. Most visitors, though, relish the tranquil, almost idyllic atmosphere they encounter. Directions: From San Francisco, go south on Highway 1 to the Bonny Doon parking lot at milepost 27.6 on the west side of the road, 2.4 miles north of Red, White, and Blue Beach, and some 11 miles north of Santa Cruz. From Santa Cruz, head north on Highway 1 until you see Bonny Doon Road, which veers off sharply to the right just south of Davenport. The beach is just off the intersection. Park in the paved lot to the west of Highway 1; don’t park on Bonny Doon Road or the shoulder of Highway 1. If the lot is full, drive north on Highway 1, park at the next beach lot, and walk back to the first lot. Or take Santa Cruz Metro Transit District bus route 40 to the lot; it leaves the Metro Center three times a day on Saturdays and takes about 20 minutes. To get to the beach, climb the berm next to the railroad tracks adjacent to the Bonny Doon lot, cross the tracks, descend, and take a recently improved, sign-marked trail to the sand. Walk north past most of the beach to the nude cove on the north end. Alternately, Dusty suggests parking as far north as possible, taking the northern entrance, and, with good shoes, following a “rocky and steep” — and less desirable — walk down to the sand. It can be slippery, so wear good shoes.

 

PANTHER BEACH, SANTA CRUZ

RATING: B

“This is my all time favorite spot,” reported a Redwood City resident after a visit this April. This “is (also) a nude beach,” added Taylen, on Yelp, who’s even seen naked people fishing at this modestly sized but gorgeous beach, some 10 miles north of Santa Cruz. Bring a beach umbrella, a windbreaker in case the weather changes, and sturdy walking shoes for the path to the sand. Pick from such activities as reading, sunbathing, rock climbing, swimming, exploring the shore, picnicking, birding, whale watching, or doing absolutely nothing at all.

Directions: Panther Beach is between mileposts 26.86 and 26.4 on Highway 1, some 10.6 miles north of the junction of Highway 1 and 17 in Santa Cruz and 40.7 miles south of the intersection of Highways 1 and 92 in Half Moon Bay. Drive slowly so you can make a sharp right turn onto a small dirt road on the west side of the highway, which is difficult to see when approaching from the north. The road leads to a rutted parking area that lies on a ridge between the highway and some railroad tracks. From the north end of the lot, cross the tracks and, while watching for poison oak, follow the steep, sloping, somewhat crumbly path about five minutes to the sand. Visitors this season suggest holding onto rocks or ledges along the trail’s more slippery spots for extra support.

 

2222 BEACH, SANTA CRUZ

RATING: A

Delightful but difficult to reach, 2222 takes its name from the address of the nearest house on West Cliff Drive, just north of Santa Cruz’s popular wharf and Boardwalk areas. It’s also one of the smallest clothing-optional beaches. You’ll be lucky to encounter more than a half dozen persons in the cove — often you’ll be alone — which mainly attracts nearby residents and local college students. A bonus is that walkers on the road above can’t see the beach from there. Yup, a visit here is like having your own private nude beach, unless you count the juggler who likes to practice on the sand. But the beach path is only suitable for people who are agile enough to handle a scary-looking, very steep slope. Leave children and anything that doesn’t fit in a backpack at home.

Directions: The beach is a few blocks west of Natural Bridges State Beach and about 2.5 miles north of the Santa Cruz Boardwalk. From either north or south of Santa Cruz, take Highway 1 to Swift Street. Drive .8 miles to the sea, then turn right on West Cliff Drive. 2222 is five blocks away. Past Auburn Avenue, look for 2222 West Cliff on the inland side of the street. Park in the pullout with eight parking spaces next to the cliff, on the west side of the road. If it’s full, continue straight and park along Chico Avenue. Bay Area Naturists leader Rich Pasco suggests visitors use care and then follow the path on the side of the beach closest to downtown Santa Cruz and the Municipal Wharf.

 

PRIVATES BEACH, SANTA CRUZ

RATING: A

One of Northern California’s best nude beaches, Privates (yes that’s the name) gets almost a unanimous thumbs up from visitors for its clean sand, shelter from the wind, and friendly vibes. New this year: During the summer, the gate to the beach is only open until 7 or 8pm. And dogs are no longer always allowed: They’re banned on weekends 10am-5pm and must always be leashed. Most users pay a fee of $50–$100 (depending on if you live in the neighborhood) to buy a gate key that allows entrance, past a security guard at the top of the beach stairs, through May 31. But we list three ways to go for free below under “Directions.” Nudists, families, and local residents love the cove, which is divided into two parts — clad and unclad. Surfers, in particular, can be found by the dozens on the sand or paddling out. Want to play nude Frisbee? At the end of the staircase to the sand, turn left and keep walking until you come to the clothing-optional area.

Directions: 1) Some visitors walk north from Capitola Pier in low tide (not a good idea since at least four people have needed to be rescued). 2) Others reach it in low tide via the stairs at the end of 41st Avenue, which lead to a surf spot called the Hook at the south end of a rocky shore known as Pleasure Point. 3) Surfers paddle on boards for a few minutes to Privates from Capitola or the Hook. 4) Most visitors buy a key to the beach gate for $100 a year at Freeline (821 41st Ave., Santa Cruz, 831-476-2950) 1.5 blocks west of the beach. Others go with someone with a key or wait outside the gate until a person with a key goes in, provided a security guard is not present (they often are there). “Most people will gladly hold the gate open for someone behind them whose hands are full,” says Bay Area Naturists leader Rich Pasco. The nude zone starts to the left of the bottom of the stairs.

 

MARIN COUNTY

BASS LAKE, BOLINAS

RATING: B

Although it is not visited by as many nudists as a decade ago, skinny-dippers still inspire some visitors in what’s usually a mostly clothed crowd to join in the fun at Bass Lake, which true to its name, has lots of bass. Natalie, of San Francisco, described a day here as “unreal” on Yelp last summer. “The hike is super mellow.” She brought floaters, but found others left in the water. Another summer visitor, Julia, borrowed floaties from some women at the site. “It was so relaxing,” she says. San Leandro’s Dave Smith, who usually even walks naked to the lake — expect a nearly hourlong, fairly easy, 2.8 mile hike — says he “loves” spending time in Bass’ clear, refreshing waters. Rangers once halted and ticketed a clad man who had an unleashed dog, but let a group of nude walkers continue. On hot days the trailhead’s parking lot fills quickly, so come early — by 9:30 a.m., according to Steve, of Newark, who used the trail this June, or possibly as late as 10:30 a.m., reported by another June visitor, Addi, of El Cerrito.

Directions: Allow about an hour for the drive from San Francisco’s Golden Gate Bridge. From Stinson Beach, go north on Highway 1. Just north of Bolinas Lagoon, turn left on the often-unmarked exit to Bolinas. Follow the road as it curves along the lagoon and eventually ends at Olema-Bolinas Road. Continue along Olema-Bolinas Road to the stop sign at Mesa Road. Turn right on Mesa and drive four miles until it becomes a gravel road and ends at the Palomarin parking lot. Arrive as early as possible. Says Smith: “We once saw hundreds of cars.” A sign at the trailhead next to the lot will guide you down scenic Palomarin Trail to the lake. For directions to incredibly beautiful Alamere Falls, 1.5 miles past Bass Lake, which empties onto a beach at the sea, please see “Elsewhere In Marin” in our online listings.

 

RED ROCK BEACH, STINSTON BEACH

RATING: A

The Bay Area’s most popular nude beach is in good shape this year. “It’s in great condition,” says frequent visitor Fred Jaggi. “Winter storms didn’t knock down the terraces (above the beach). And the sand is really nice this season.” Warmer than usual weather has been sending crowds of up to 100 persons to the picturesque cove, up from 80 last year, but about the same number as 2012. If you arrive too late in the day to find space on the sand, try visiting on a Monday to join a small group of regular visitors for what they call “Club Day.” If possible, bring a folding beach chair. Save about 10-15 minutes to take a moderately steep but three-to-five-foot-wide trail to the beach, which is usually kept in great shape by volunteers. Even so, the last few feet of the path may sometimes be a bit slippery.

Directions: Go north on Highway 1 from Mill Valley, following the signs to Stinson Beach. At the long line of mailboxes next to the Muir Beach cutoff point, start checking your odometer. Look for a dirt lot full of cars to the left (west) of the highway 5.6 miles north of Muir and a smaller one on east side of the road. The lots are at milepost 11.3, one mile south of Stinson Beach. Limited parking is also available 150 yards to the south on the west side of Highway 1. Or from Mill Valley, take the West Marin/Bolinas Stage toward Stinson Beach and Bolinas. Get off at the intersection of Panoramic Highway and Highway 1. Then walk south 0.6 mile to the Red Rock lots. Take the path to the beach that starts near the Dumpster next to the main parking lot.

 

MUIR NUDE BEACH, MUIR BEACH

RATING: A

After being closed to the public most of last summer and fall, Muir Beach has reopened with improvements galore, including a relocated parking lot (it’s now parallel with the beach road, called Pacific Way), new restrooms, and a new, 400-foot long walkway to the sand. Most important of all, access to the gorgeous, clothing-optional cove just north of the main beach has also been reopened. “The walk takes a little longer,” says recent visitor Michael Velkoff, of Lucas Valley. “But the beach was fine.” Known for its peace and quiet, Muir is a less social beach than nearby Red Rock. It’s also less crowded (even on warm summer days, you’re more apt to see 30-40 people instead of hundreds) and far easier to reach, without any trail to take or any poison oak to ruin your day: You park at the main Muir lot, walk north along the water, cross over some rocks (in very low tide, try to cross closer to the water), and you’re there. Women, in particular, seem to like the vibes of Muir, which attracts fewer gawkers — often none — than most sites.

Directions: From San Francisco, take Highway 1 north to Muir Beach, to milepost 5.7. Turn left on Pacific Way and park in the Muir lot (to avoid tickets, don’t park on Pacific, even if other vehicles are parked there). Or park on the street off Highway 1 across from Pacific and about 100 yards north. From the Muir lot, follow a path and boardwalk to the sand. Then walk north to a pile of rocks between the cliffs and the sea. You’ll need good hiking or walking shoes to cross; in very low tide, try to cross closer to the water. The nude area starts north of it.

 

RCA BEACH, BOLINAS

RATING: A

Are you looking for a place to restore your sanity and recharge you from the stress of everyday life? Then you may want to visit RCA Beach, which is never crowded and averages just 5-20 visitors per day. Plus they’re usually spread out along the milelong shoreline, which gives the site an almost deserted feeling. “It’s a quiet place,” says one regular user. “And most people there are nude.” The site is somewhat exposed, so some regulars usually look for sunbathing nooks that are a little protected from the wind or even build windbreaks from driftwood they find on the sand. There are two beach trails from which to pick: one that’s long and steep or a shorter path that’s less steep but crumbling and slippery.

Directions: From Stinson Beach, take Highway 1 (Shoreline Highway) north toward Calle Del Mar for 4.5 miles. Turn left onto Olema Bolinas Road and follow it 1.8 miles to Mesa Road in Bolinas. Turn right and stay on Mesa until you see cars parked past some old transmission towers. Park and walk 0.25 miles to the end of the pavement. Go left through the gap in the fence. The trail leads to a gravel road. Follow it until you see a path on your right, leading through a gate. Take it along the cliff top until it veers down to the beach. Or continue along Mesa until you come to a grove of eucalyptus trees. Enter through the gate here, then hike 0.5 miles through a cow pasture on a path that will also bring you through thick brush. The second route is slippery and eroding, but less steep. “It’s shorter, but toward the end there’s a rope for you to hold onto going down the cliff,” tells the veteran visitor.

 

LIMANTOUR BEACH, OLEMA

RATING: B

Want to know a secret about Point Reyes National Seashore? Rangers usually won’t issue citations for nude sunbathing unless you’re close to a clothed visitor or someone complains. “You shouldn’t rip your clothes off right after you’ve left your car and then walk nude through a picnic area on the way to the beach,” former Point Reyes district Ranger Marc Yeston told us. “Usually, nobody hassles you,” says Marin County resident Michael Velkoff. “I knew it was going to be hot, so I went to Limantour. It’s a really mellow place. I just love the open space.” The more than two miles of shoreline are perfect for walking, birding, or whale and seal-watching. Dogs are okay on the south end of the beach. Naturists suggest walking at least 10 minutes away from the parking lot and more than 300 feet away from fellow beachgoers before even considering disrobing. Others prefer the sand dunes on the north side.

Directions: From San Francisco, take Highway 101 north to the Sir Francis Drake Boulevard exit, then follow Sir Francis through San Anselmo and Lagunitas to Olema. At the intersection with Highway 1, turn right onto 1. Just north of Olema, go left on Bear Valley Road. A mile after the turnoff for the Bear Valley Visitor Center, turn left (at the Limantour Beach sign) on Limantour Road and follow it 11 miles to the parking lot at the end. Walk north a half-mile until you see some dunes about 50 yards east of the shore. Nudists usually prefer the valleys between the dunes for sunbathing.

 

MENDOCINO COUNTY

LILIES BEACH, MENDOCINO

RATING: A

If you’re visiting the town of Mendocino, a stopover at Lilies can be a real treat. Even with lower water than usual this year, the clothing-optional swimming hole here is simply delightful. “I like it because it keeps getting sunlight late into the day and has a nice gravel sand bar,” says Jeanne Coleman, education director of the Mendocino Woodlands Camp Association, which offers great group camping facilities just a few minutes from this Big River treasure. Best times to visit are summer or early fall. Even when it’s foggy in downtown Mendo, temperatures may be in the 80s at Lilies, where there’s usually a mix of men and women and up to 50 percent of them nude. “I often see people stop off who have been mountain biking,” adds Coleman.

Directions: Take Highway 1 north to Mendocino, then turn right on Little Lake Road, the first right turn past the main Mendocino turnoff sign. Drive four or five miles east on Little Lake until you see a sign for Mendocino Woodlands. Follow the dirt road that starts there for about three miles. When you see the Woodlands retreat, go right about 0.3 miles, until the dirt road ends next to Big River. Park just off the road, where you see other cars pulled over. Follow the trail that begins there a quarter mile to the beach. Or, to save 1.5 miles, from Mendocino drive 3.5 miles east on Little Lake until you spot a dirt road with a yellow Forest Service gate. Follow the road to a second yellow gate. Just past the gate, at the juncture of several roads, turn right and take the dirt road to the parking area. The walk from the Woodlands only takes about 20 minutes.

 

HUMBOLDT COUNTY

NORTH GARBERVILLE NUDE BEACH, GARBERVILLE

RATING: C

A nude beach where you can camp near a river or enjoy an afternoon of reading, tanning or swimming? Just five miles from Garberville, off Highway 101 at Exit 645 (Avenue Of The Giants), there’s a beach on the south fork of the Eel River that’s so secluded some visitors stay overnight. Its existence was kept secret by users until we unveiled directions to it in 2011. “It’s an awesome place,” says a recent visitor. “This sandy beach has become a local hangout.” “The beach is excellent for tents,” says reader Dave. “It’s really private and fun.” Nestled among some shade trees, the beach can’t be seen from the road. Some visitors bring tubes or floaties. The skinny-dipping hole measures about 100 feet across, with both deep and shallow swimming areas.

Directions: Go north on Highway 101. About five miles north of Garberville, take Exit 645 (Avenue Of The Giants), turn left, and head south a half mile on the river frontage road there to the spot mentioned below. Or from the north, take Highway 101 south to Exit 645. Take the exit to Hooker Creek Road and continue straight for about 100 feet, where you will see the frontage/service road. You can only go one way onto the service road. Follow it in front of the old Sylvandale Gardens store less than a half mile south along the river. Then park at the orange arrow on the pavement or where you see cars pulled over along the street. Look for a path there (recently marked by a rainbow streamer) and follow it as it curves to the right and takes you about 30 yards to the beach. Local nudies and campers tend to stay on the far right end of the beach.