A handful of skinny-dippers sometimes joins drivers, bicyclists, and hikers in cooling off at this old-fashioned swimming hole next to Sir Francis Drake Boulevard in Lagunitas. But more likely, you won’t see them with others — they tend to go naked when nobody else is around. The Inkwells is an awesome, invigorating place to soak and recharge. The site is named for its two tublike “inkwells” of water. Best time to visit: summer weekday mornings. On weekends, the site is usually a hangout for teens, college-age youths, and other swimsuit-clad visitors. “I felt more than a little conspicuous,” says reader Larry, who decided to try the Inkwell Spillways across the street (see Elsewhere in Marin).
Private property next to Samuel P. Taylor State Park. “Sometimes the owners come out and shoo you away,” a park spokesperson says. “The way I understand it,” says San Geronimo’s Clay Baldwin, “he only comes when there’s a ton of people and they’re making a lot of noise.”
From San Anselmo, take Sir Francis Drake Boulevard west through Fairfax, Woodacre, and San Geronimo to Lagunitas. Some 1.5 miles after Lagunitas you’ll come to the green Shafer Bridge. Park on the other (west) side of the bridge as soon as it’s safe. The curve in the road is dangerous, so don’t park where it says not to. Walk back to the bridge; you’ll be able to see part of the soaking area from the road. Take the trail that starts 15 feet east of the bridge.
The site’s stone tubs really do resemble inkwells. From the bridge, the first one you come to is a 6-foot-deep pool measuring about 15 by 20 feet across. Some 10 feet away and to the left is a smaller pool maybe 20 feet deep. “The water’s cold but not unbearable,” Baldwin says. Trees, bushes, and vines help keep most of the area fairly hidden from the road. Jumping off rocks into the water is not advised.
Varies from just a few users to 25. Baldwin counted 14 visitors, split evenly between the sexes, on a warm weekday. Percentage of nude use varies, but is usually low. Often, it’s just a clothed site.
Plunge over the years in nude use; No Parking and No Trespassing signs posted and difficult parking; cold water that obscures rocks; later in summer, surrounding rocks may be too hot for sunning.