Gary Hanauer

Davenport Cove

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Rating: C

Both clothed and unclad visitors can be found at this site, which is off Highway 1, just south of Davenport’s public beach. “It’s really a beautiful place,” says regular visitor Russ. A group of offshore rocks resembling a shark’s tooth gives the beach its alternate name, Shark’s Tooth Beach. Swimming isn’t recommended, due to dangerous waves and cold water, but some locals paddle around anyway. However, the wind-sheltered cove is good for suitless sunbathing. A steep trail takes you to a cave you can explore and some interesting rock formations. Use caution when visiting the cove in high tide; it often washes out. Also, “avoid the area at night,” suggests Russ, who has heard stories of partiers harassing people who remained after dark in defiance of the beach’s official closure at dusk. Former problems included car robberies and gawkers in bushes.

Legal status:

Believed to be privately owned, with public access allowed under state law.

How to find it:

Look for Davenport Cove off Highway 1 north of Santa Cruz. The turnoff is 39.1 miles south of the junction of Highways 1 and 92 in Half Moon Bay and 12.2 miles north of the junction of Highways 1 and 17 in Santa Cruz. Park at the main public beach, find the railroad tracks, and take the trail that begins there and runs about a half mile south to the cove. Or check for a turnoff half a mile south of Davenport, pull off the highway, and park in the rutted lot, which holds about 10 cars. Go around a long metal gate to a path leading to the sand. It’s a poor and steep trail, winding up and over the railroad tracks, but it will take you directly to the cove. “The path isn’t easy,” says Russ. “Instead of walking down the trail, you kind of climb down the trail.”

The beach:

Backed by towering white cliffs. The cove is small but sandy.

The crowd:

Only a few people visit Davenport Cove, and not everyone goes nude. Russ and his wife counted six other visitors.

Problems:

Beach erosion, especially in spring and winter; fog; wind; cold water; steep trail; poor parking; sometimes poison oak on trail; formerly had cliff gawkers; rough surf; cove may be covered by high tide; signs urge visitors not to leave valuables in their vehicles.

Rope Beach

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Rating: D

A support rope that beachgoers used to guide themselves up and down a cliff in the Davenport area has disappeared, making access to the sand below very dangerous. “It’s very hard not to slip down the loose rock and rock face,” says one visitor, Russ. “We didn’t fall or anything, but I would not recommend going down to this beach unless you consider yourself an experienced rock climber. It’s probably a 70 degree slope. We went back up very carefully. It’s much harder than ever before, with nothing to prevent you from slipping and falling down.”

To reach the beautiful and nearly always uncrowded shore, visitors previously used the rope to hold themselves close to the cliff while placing their feet on footholds. Says Russ: “The rope helped you steady yourself.”

Legal status:

Rumored to be destined to become a state beach. The Nature Conservancy reportedly bought the land on the cliffs above the beach, used in the past to grow artichokes, from the Packard Foundation.

How to find it:

Rope Beach is north of Shark’s Tooth Beach (Davenport Cove), between it and Davenport Municipal Beach. If you’re facing Shark’s Tooth, it’s to the right. Follow the directions to Davenport Cove (see entry below) off Highway 1 north of Santa Cruz. The turnoff is 39.1 miles south of the junction of Highways 1 and 92 in Half Moon Bay and 12.2 miles north of the junction of Highways 1 and 17 in Santa Cruz. Park at the main public beach, find the railroad tracks, and take the trail that begins there. But instead of following it about a half mile south, which will take you Davenport Cove, at the tracks “you go to the right,” says Russ. Previously, visitors would look for “a round, one-inch diameter steel stake that is rusted, which marks the area where the rope goes down,” according to Russ. He said the rope had knots tied in it, so it won’t slip out of your hand when you go up or down” the cliff. We told visitors to be sure you hang onto it. “Otherwise, if you take one false step, you could fall 50 feet,” explained Russ. Now, though, with the rope gone, experienced visitors look for what Russ calls “a little narrow path through the brush. We were looking for little toeholds in the rocks. On the way back, I helped my wife up and handed her stuff, like our backpack.”

The beach:

What Rope Beach lacks in length — it’s maybe 150 yards long — it more than makes up for in width. Russ likes to sit near but not directly next to the cliff, “which will give you some shelter from the wind. The beach is big enough so that you can spread out on it without being near someone. People aren’t planted five feet away from each other. If somebody is uncomfortable (with someone being nude), they could move to another part of the beach.” The beach is usually in good shape, with almost no litter, due to the lack of visitors. “A few people go in the water, but the waves are pretty rough,” says Russ. “It’s more of a sunning beach.” Adds a reader: “The beach is nice once you get there.”

The crowd:

“You might see as many as eight-to-10 people there, but more often there are a half dozen or less” reports a recent visitor. “Quite often, there are nude people on the beach.” Russ says there was nobody else there one time he was at the beach and “a lady and a couple” during his next visit. 

Problems:

Support rope gone; steep, slippery trail; needs better directions; rough water; from the cliffs, keep looking for people on the beach; gawkers have occasionally lurked in the plants on the cliff edge.

Scott Creek Beach

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Rating: B

Surfers, nature lovers, and naturists all like to visit Scott Creek, near Davenport, with surfers usually gathering on the north shore. If you’re a bird watcher, then you may want to check for waterfowl in the site’s little lagoon. For even more nature action, stop at nearby Ano Nuevo State Reserve to look for elephant seals. Tip: before swimming at Scott Creek, check for possible riptides offshore.

Legal status:

County land.

How to find it:

Scott Creek is three miles north of Davenport, off Highway 1, and 15.5 miles north of the junction of Highways 1 and 17, in Santa Cruz. It’s also 35.8 miles south of the intersection of Highways 1 and 92 in Half Moon Bay. Check for Swanton Road, shown on some maps. There are two turnouts for parking. You can walk to the beach from either north or south of the bridge.

The beach:

Frequently deserted, half-mile-long Scott Creek Beach is at the bottom of a small bluff. At the north end, a submerged reef creates one of the finest surfing spots in northern California, which prime surfing from October-May. 

The crowd:

The beach is usually quiet, but the two turnouts, which hold 60-to-100 cars between them, fill up quickly on peak summer days.

Problems:

Wind; undertow; cold water; a pipeline offshore detracts from the view

 

Pomponio State Beach

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Rating: C

Most people who visit Pomponio State Beach don’t disrobe. But over the years, some visitors have gone nude at its wind-sheltered cove, which is also known for its incredibly clean sand. But trying to reach the best spot for naked tanning can be a bit risky. The main path to the water is long and, in parts, has almost vanished, due to erosion. Plus the waves are so strong that swimming isn’t advisable. Several swimmers have even been knocked down and carried out to sea. Bring a windbreaker in case the weather changes.

Legal status:

State beach property.

How to find it:

Pomponio is some two miles north of Pescadero State Beach on Highway 1, roughly 12 miles south of Half Moon Bay. To find the nude area at the south end of the 1.5-mile long beach, walk south in low tide along the water from the Pomponio entrance. Or from the old Pomponio parking turn-out (marked with pole-like barriers) on Highway 1, follow a trail that starts there until it enters a ravine with a creek. Visitors used to cross the canyon on a board, but it’s gone. At last report, some regulars were hopping on a pallet to cross part of the chasm, and then crawling the rest of the way.

The beach:

There’s a mile and a half of partially sheltered sand that varies from being flat to gently sloping. To avoid falling rocks, stay away from the edge of the high sandstone bluffs above the beach.

Photos available here

The crowd:

As many as 25 nudists a day were visiting the beach, but that number has dropped to single digits, even on the hottest days.

Problems:

Long walk, riptides, cliff erosion, cold air, wind, gawkers, and reports of car burglaries in the past. Swimming while au naturel is not permitted.

San Gregorio

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Rating: A

Still the USA’s longest continually used nude beach, San Gregorio even has its own website and live web cam. The privately run operation, which is located next to San Gregorio State Beach, recently began its 46th year of serving the clothing-optional community.

The beach often draws a large gay crowd, along with some nude and suited straight couples, singles, and families.

Nude use of San Gregorio began before 1966. Air Force veteran and San Francisco State College senior Darrell Tarver, 28, formed, with a “Committee For Free Beaches” with some of his friends to leaflet college campuses in San Francisco and Berkeley about the “free beach” in San Gregorio. Word spread rapidly. Soon, there were 500 nudists swarming onto the shore nearly every Sunday. “This is the best incentive I have to stay slim,” a UC Berkeley coed told a Time magazine reporter.

But problems soon cropped up. Gawkers began taking up positions, while small planes buzzed the beach. A father of a 14 year old girl tried to press charges after claiming that his daughter had been pressured into disrobing in public at the beach. The county district attorney’s office dropped the case after deciding that nothing lewd or obscene had taken place. But instead of dissuading visitors from disrobing, the news sent even more nudists onto the sand. Attempts to keep the hordes of naked people away by closing the access roads proved futile because they walked around the south end of the beach at low tide or even formed human chains down some dangerous cliff trails.

Today, the human chains are long gone and have been replaced by a privately managed attraction. “It’s a really romantic spot,” says a single woman. But make no mistake, the college coeds have mostly left. In fact, San Gregorio has, over the years, become mostly a gay hangout and pickup spot. Want to give it a try? First-timers are sometimes annoyed (as I was, years ago) by the driftwood structures on the sandy slope leading down to the beach, which are used by some visitors as “sex condos.” However, fans of the beach savor San Gregorio’s stunning scenery. It has “awesome natural beauty,” says regular visitor Bob Wood. Attractions of the 120 acre site include two miles of soft sand and tide pools to explore, as well as a lagoon, lava tube, and, if you look closely enough on the cliffs, the remains of an old railroad line.

Some 49 percent of over 1,000 persons surveyed at about.com advised “don’t go there,” 38% called it excellent, and 10% rated it “good, but with a few flaws.”

The beach is open weekends 9 a.m. until sunset on weekends and weekdays from 10 a.m.-7 p.m., with the last users admitted at 5 p.m. Weather report hotline: 415-765-7697.

Legal status:

Private property, leased land.

How to find it:

From San Francisco, drive south on Highway 1, past Half Moon Bay, and, between mileposts 18 and 19, look on the right side of the road for telephone call box number SM 001 0195, at the intersection of Highway 1 and Stage Road, and near an iron gate with trees on either side. From there, expect a drive of 1.1 miles to the entrance. At the Junction 84 highway sign, the beach’s driveway is just .1 mile away. Turn into a gravel driveway, passing through the iron gate mentioned above, which says 119429 on the gatepost. Drive past a grassy field to the parking lot, where you’ll be asked to pay an entrance fee. Take the long path from the lot to the sand; everything north of the trail’s end is clothing-optional. The beach is also accessible from the San Gregorio State Beach parking area to the south; from there, hike about a half-mile north. Take the dirt road past the big white gate with the Toll Road sign to the parking lot.

The beach:

You’ll find caves, cliffs, driftwood structures (common practice is to hang a t-shirt over a pole to indicate a structure is occupied), and a beach full of clean, rolling sand. Pets are OK (though dogs are not allowed on weekends or holidays); fires, cameras, and overnight camping are banned. Swimming is not recommended. There are chemical toilets in the parking lot.

The crowd:

On the warmest days 50 to 200 visitors may be spread thinly along the sprawling beach, which is so large it never feels crowded. “The wide open spaces give one the feeling of being very alone,” a reader named Paul says. “I was surprised, though, that even on warm weekends there were almost no heterosexuals in sight.” On the south end of the beach, there are sometimes dozens of straight couples and families, both naked and clothed. Gay men tend to hang out on the north side.

Problems:

Entrance fee, wind, riptides, cold water, summer fog, sex on the beach or in driftwood “condos,” not much of a social atmosphere.

Montara State Beach

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Rating: C

Montara doesn’t allow nudity, so keep some clothes handy if you decide to attempt some bare bottom baking in the summer sun — and a ranger starts approaching. Most visitors do not go nude. Only a few people still sunbathe topless or nude at the far north end of Montara, which is just south of People’s Beach and People’s neighbor, Devil’s Slide. It originally attracted naturists when a landslide blocked the road to Devil’s Slide years ago. 

Legal status:

State beach, where rangers will and do issue citations for nudity.

How to find it:

Montara is 1.1 miles south of Devil’s Slide on Highway 1. Arrive early on busy days to get parking. Walk north to the northern tip of the beach, where occasional nudity takes place on the hottest summer weekdays.

The beach:

An area of dunes on the narrow beach strip’s north end was formerly used for semiprivate nude sunbathing. In recent years, the “nude spot” has become eroded and more exposed to public view.

The crowd:

Only a few naturists still visit Montara.

Problems:

Fog; wind; beach erosion; icy water; intolerant park rangers.

People’s Beach

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Rating: D

Although we can’t recommend People’s Beach, a few people somehow still make their way down its crumbling, eroded, and very dangerous path. Worse yet, the beach disappears in high tide. And incidents of sex on the sand have driven away former regulars. In its heyday, up to 60 nudists a day wound up on the sand, recalls Dave Smith, of San Leandro. “You had to jump the last eight feet until somebody added a plank.” The site, he says, later “became a gay scene.” Remembers Bay Area resident Timothy Moscow: “It was heaven.”

“All I can say is that it’s not a very good beach,” says Carl Ernst, former operator of nearby Devil’s Slide. The path to the beach is so dangerous that it’s been officially closed for years — and the Guardian continues to recommend you avoid it. Users say the steep trail gives way to a 20 foot drop at the end. Wear hiking shoes and be prepared to turn back.

Legal status:

State property, believed to be part of Montara State Beach.

How to find it:

From San Francisco, take Highway 1 south past Pacifica to Montara Beach. Park at the Montara State Beach lot, then walk north along the highway to the trailhead. The beach path begins next to a highway turnout. Look for the “Hiking, Climbing Prohibited” sign.

The beach:

“On a good day, it’s maybe 80 to 100 yards long,” estimates Ernst. During high tide, the site may disappear altogether. Does the beach have any nice qualities? “It’s very quiet, which is why I go here,” one reader says. Another says it’s less windy than Devil’s Slide.

The crowd:

Often deserted: a big crowd here would be five people.

Problems:

Brutally steep, breakaway trail; nearly inaccessible; fog; cold water; small beach; lack of precise trail directions; reports of sex on the beach.

Devil’s Slide (Gray Whale Cove)

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Improved directions!

Recommended!

Devil’s Slide (Gray Whale Cove)

Rating: A

Gray Whale Cove, which is often called Devil’s Slide, continues to get rave reviews from visitors.

“There were lots of young, fit guys on the nudie part and about five women,” reports Alexis, of San Leandro, who visited this June and told Yelp she stayed for over five hours because it was “very warm and sunny.” The water was “very cold, but just jump in,” she suggests. “It’s somewhat tolerable and you’ll get used to it.”

“This is a great nude beach and it is a romantic place,” reports a male visitor who dropped by in April.

Adds Grace, of South San Francisco: “You don’t have to walk a half mile just to see the edge of the water.” And, she added, it’s “very secluded” so it isn’t as crowded as many other local beaches.

And here’s some even better news: although the beach appears on the list of parks scheduled to be closed this month by the state due to budget shortfalls, officials plan to keep it open while they negotiate with what Paul Keel, San Mateo coast state parks sector superintendent, calls a prospective “donor to keep it in operation for the coming year.”

At press time, Keel told us that although “nothing’s been signed or inked, it’s fair to say we are optimistic, so hopefully we will know more in the next month.”

Access to the site, though, is changing: after a long-awaited, voter-approved Devil’s Slide tunnel is completed this fall, Keel and others expect a possible increase in traffic to the beach, as more pedestrians and bicyclists use a nearby section of Highway 1 that is being closed.

Meanwhile, rangers say they will allow a long-standing tradition of nudity to continue on the sand unless visitors complain. “But it’s not a nude beach,” Supervising State Park Ranger Michael Grant told us several seasons ago.

However, with state budget woes and cutbacks of personnel, there have not been any reports of nudists being chased off the sprawling, pristine site. Even if someone wants to complain about the naked people, rangers aren’t usually at the beach and cell phone reception there to try to reach them is regarded as poor. 

Part of the beach isn’t even within state land, so it’s not subject to enforcement by rangers.

Grant told us that enforcement is being left up to individual rangers. “What we do varies, depending on the circumstances,” he says. “Every case is different.”

Another administrator claims that it’s unlikely nudists will be told to leave. “It’s a relatively remote place, so we aren’t going to be pursuing enforcement against nudity at Gray Whale Cove,” said the administrator, who wanted to remain anonymous. “Nothing’s changed about our enforcement.”

He said, though, that if a ranger drove up and saw two groups of school children approaching, then the beach would not be regarded as “remote” anymore. In such a case, naturists would probably be asked to suit up.

About one or two in every 20-30 visitors go nude at the beautiful cove — quite a contrast to the several hundred who used to strip off their clothes when the site was a privately operated nude beach a decade ago.

The remaining naturists tend to hang out on the north end of the shoreline. “It’s a good place to recharge from work,” says regular visitor Ron, who enjoys swimming there, even though signs warn of dangerous surf. The beach is open every day. Dogs are prohibited.

Legal status:

Gray Whale Cove State Beach.

How to find it:

From San Francisco, take Highway 1 south through Pacifica. Three miles south of the Denny’s restaurant in Linda Mar, turn left (inland or east) on an unmarked road, which takes you to the beach’s parking lot. Coming from the south on Highway 1, look for the turnoff road on the right (east), 1.2 miles north of the Chart House restaurant in Montara.

New directions after this fall: from the north, take Highway 1 through the Devil’s Slide tunnel and then turn left onto the road described above. From the south, continue using the above directions.

Park in the beach lot and then take a 146-step staircase leads to the sand. “The steps are in good shape,” Ron says. 

Most naturists use the north end of the sand, which some visitors regard as the prettiest part of the shore. It’s separated by rocks from the rest of the beach, so regular visitors suggest waiting until low tide to make the crossing to the nude area. 

Alexis, who visited when the tide was high, says: “You have to be in some kind of good shape and have the agility to climb over those boulders with the waves violently crashing into them. I got cuts on my feet, but it was easier to do it barefoot, though.”

“I lost my flip flops” during the climb, she adds. It was “too slippery with them on anyway.” She notes it is “probably not always like this.” The “tide was very rough and high at 5 p.m.”

The beach:

The 300-foot long site is surrounded by orange-hued sandstone cliffs on one side and the beautiful Pacific Ocean on the other. “The beach is beautiful” and “tucked away on the coast,” so it’s not “over populated with city folks,” tells Jane, of San Francisco. Devil’s Slide is a great place to read, tan, jog, play Frisbee, or watch (true to its state beach name) gray whales, pelicans, and surfers. 

The crowd:

Tourists, families, surfers, and naturists all use the beach.

Problems:

Says Ranger Grant: “There’s been an increase in break-ins of vehicles parked along the highway. No matter where you park, be sure to remove any property and take it with you.” Other concerns include highway scheduled to be permanently closed this fall; slippery nude area access rocks; attempting to reach the nude spot in high tide can be dangerous; change in enforcement policy (see above); influx of suited visitors; cold water; fog; wind; landslides sometimes close Highway 1; long walk to the beach; three great white sharks seen in ’80s; parking fee; some sexual activity reported in north cove area and arrests for lewd behavior; and gawking (numerous reports on message boards).

Strawberry Canyon Pool

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Rating: B

The deck and surrounding grassy area at the East Pool, one of three pools in the Strawberry Canyon Recreation Area run by the University of California, Berkeley, has long been used for topless sunbathing. The 25-yard-by-25-yard pool with six lap lanes finally reopened, but there’s no word yet on whether the fun in the sun will continue. Before the closure, rule No. 8 of the posted regulations said that “Bathing suits must be worn at all times by all patrons using the facility (State of California Health Code); topless sunbathing permitted.”

Although thongs and toplessness are banned at the facility’s West Pool, over the years topless use of the East Pool has depended on the weather and the crowd. One visitor said she had been top-free there “every weekend” for two years before the pool was closed for repairs. Very few women were going topless on weekdays, but a fair number were on warm weekends when in the company of other top-free sunbathers. Note: neither all-nude sunbathing nor topless swimming are permitted, and top-free sunning was OK only on the deck of the 80-degree adult lap and “water jogging” East Pool, not at the other two.

Legal status:

Part of UC Berkeley.

How to find it: In Berkeley, take Dwight Way east toward the hills. Two blocks after Piedmont Avenue, turn left onto Prospect Street, which winds around Memorial Stadium. Turn right onto Centennial Drive and follow signs a short distance to the Strawberry Canyon Recreation Area parking lot. Walk past the wading pool and the family-oriented West Pool. The Strawberry Canyon fee for nonstudents is $5 a day, $60 to $75 for a 15-entry pass.

The beach:

A deck and a grassy area around the deck of a large pool used for adult lap swimming.

The crowd:

Mostly UC Berkeley students, professors, and staff and other Berkeley-area residents, leaning heavily toward the young. At the www.topfreedom.com site, Becky, of Oakland, reports that “top freedom” can range “from 10-50 percent on warm and sunny weekend afternoons.”

Problems:

Not designated for full clothing-optional use; no sand; not very private; people must be suited to swim or walk, fee, closed until further notice. The university is raising funds to replaster and reopen the pool.

Elsewhere in Marin

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Rating: C

Want to be nude at a waterfall? After some hiking, you could make your fantasy come true right in Marin. After taking a dip in clothing-optional Bass Lake (please see previous entry above), some visitors like to walk a little further to gorgeous Alamere Falls, which is actually four separate falls. “It was spectacular,” says recent visitor Ryan, of the East Bay. Other Marin locations that get limited clothing-optional use include Fern Grove, close to Starlight Meadow, in the Dogtown area; and the Inkwell Spillways, near the Inkwell in Lagunitas, which made an indelible impression on a reader named Larry: “It felt comfortable to visit. Just do it discreetly.”

Visitor Trevor Murphy told us that the water at Alamere is impressive during the spring but slows down by September. “The big part of the falls goes over a cliff into the sea,” he explains, “but there’s another stage higher up where the stream falls into a couple of stone pools on a little plateau.” In all, Alamere is a whopping 70 feet high, with the lower part measuring maybe 40 to 45 feet.

Legal status:

Alamere Falls and Fern Grove are on federal land managed by Point Reyes National Seashore. The status of Inkwell Spillways is unknown; it is said to be monitored and posted with No Trespassing signs.

How to find it:

To find Alamere, follow the directions to Bass Lake, then continue 1.5 miles from Bass on the Palomarin Trail past Pelican Pond to the waterfalls. Watch for poison oak.  “I’ve never encountered any poison oak,” says Ryan, “but the trail is very narrow and overgrown.  You’re walking through a corridor of greenery.” The last half-mile of the trail is via a signed spur path, off the Coast Trail. From the spur, it’s a little difficult to handle. You’ll need to get down to Alamere Creek, but the trail to it is steep. Some parts of the path are only two feet wide. From there, cross Alamere Creek, which, during times of high water, can be tricky. From the top of the cliff, some daredevils scramble down the eroding, crumbling, rockface, which has become increasingly dangerous, to the beach. “You have to be careful because it’s steep,” says Ryan.  Suggests the Bay Area Hiker (bahiker.com) site: “Carefully cross over the water at the top of the second drop, and you’ll reach a flat, where you can follow the water to the main drop at the coast’s edge … If you want to continue to the beach, walk from the top of the main waterfall where it spills onto the beach, north and slightly away from the cliff edge, to an obvious but unsigned, well-worn descending path. The first drop is an easy, stairstep-like descent down bare rock.” The last 20 feet are said to be tough because of loose rock. Falling can be easy and there are almost no reliable handholds to grip.  “You have to almost go down on your butt,” says Ryan.  At the beach, walk south for the best view of the waterfalls. To return, retrace your steps. 

Fern Grove — not to be confused with (Sigmund) Stern Grove, on the edge of San Francisco’s Sunset District — is said to be just north of Starlight Meadow. Take Highway 1 past the pullover for Starlight, then look for the start of the Randall Trail. If you reach Fivebrooks on Highway 1 and still haven’t seen it, turn around; the trail is about 2.5 miles south. Take the path uphill until you see the meadow. 

Inkwell Spillways is across the road from the Inkwell (see above). At Shafer Bridge, look for two dirt roads on the left. Park past the bridge and walk back to the dirt roads. Follow the easternmost one, along the creek, for a half mile. When the road turns left, climbing toward the dam at Kent Lake, stay on the trail along the creek.

The beach:

Alamere Falls: Alamere Creek is the source of three small falls and a large one that empty into the Pacific Ocean. “All of them are spectacular, but access to them is not easy, requiring a hike down very steep and treacherous trails,” reports the Frisky Banner, a local naturism newsletter. “The worst and most dangerous is the last trail that leads directly to the beach. Two men in our group took that trail, and the rest of us stayed near the smaller falls. I was envious looking at the two guys running around naked under the big falls. I took a picture of them from above and even then had my stomach in my throat.” Inkwell Spillways: “You’ll come to a pool at the base of the spillways,” says Robert Carlsen. “There’s an outlet from a pumping station that’s nice to sit at, plus some big rocks that feel great after swimming.

See photos of Alamere here

The crowd:

Only occasional use is reported, the most popular site being Alamere Falls.  On summer weekends, “you’ll usually see 20-40 people” walking on the trail and gathering at the top of the waterfalls, according to Ryan.  “But because you have to go down on your butt, most people chicken out of going down to the beach.  There might be two or three persons there.”

Problems:

Poison oak; dangerous hiking conditions near the beach on the trail to Alamere.

McClures Beach

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Rating: C

Small numbers of naked sunbathers have been appearing on the north end of McClures Beach, in Point Reyes National Seashore, for over 10 years. For example, in 2000 and 2001, then-district ranger Marc Yeston, who now is the chief ranger of a pair of federal parks in Colorado, counted four groups of nudists on the sand. Frequent fog, wind, and hazardous waves, plus a moderately long hike from the end of Pierce Point Road, keep the turnout low, but they also help ward off tourists and law enforcers.

Legal status:

Part of Point Reyes National Seashore.

How to find it:

From San Francisco, head north on Highway 101 to Sir Francis Drake Boulevard. Stay on Sir Francis Drake through San Anselmo and Lagunitas. At the intersection with Highway 1, head north to the Point Reyes headquarters in Olema. Pick up a map, then follow Bear Valley Road to Sir Francis Drake Boulevard. Take Sir Francis Drake to Pierce Point Road. Park at the end of the road and follow the trail to the beach. The path ends at the middle of the beach. So far, nudists have been using the north end of the beach.

The beach:

Sandy and mostly hassle free, except for the weather.

The crowd:

Most likely just you.

Problems:

Cold water, wind, and fog; swimming too hazardous; a bit lonely.

Midway Beach

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Rating: C

Only a smattering of tourists visit this remote beach, which is between North Beach and South Beach in Point Reyes National Seashore.  And that’s good news for the few sunbathers who sometimes go topless or nude on the warmest days, when nobody’s around.  Tip: bring a windbreaker in case the weather changes.

Legal status:

Midway Beach is within Point Reyes National Seashore.

How to find it:

Starting at San Francisco, head north on Highway 101 to Sir Francis Drake Boulevard. Stay on Sir Francis Drake through San Anselmo and Lagunitas. At the intersection with Highway 1, head north to the National Seashore headquarters in Olema. Pick up a map and follow Bear Valley Road to Sir Francis Drake Boulevard. Take Sir Francis past Inverness and Tomales Bay State Park and follow the signs to North Beach or South Beach. You’ll come to the North Beach trail first. When you get to the beach, walk south along the sand. Or continue on Sir Francis Drake toward the Point Reyes Lighthouse (don’t take the road to Drake’s Beach). Just after the cutoff to Drake’s Beach, look on your right for the trail to South Beach. Follow the same directions as above, except walk north.

The beach:

A sandy patch of land that is ruggedly isolated.

The crowd:

You’ll probably be alone. Only a few naturists visit here.

Problems:

Can be cold, windy, foggy, and lonely; directions can be improved.

Mount Vision Pond

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Rating: C

A few years ago, authorities told us that Mount Vision Pond, in Point Reyes National Seashore, may become too clogged with debris for swimming as early as this season. The reason: the federal government won’t pay to clean out and fix the dam of this half-acre manmade site. Instead, said then-PRNS district ranger Marc Yeston (currently the chief ranger at Colorado’s Black Canyon Of The Gunnison National Park and nearby Curecanti National Recreation Area): “It’s going back to nature.”  

Legal status:

Property of Point Reyes National Seashore.

How to find it:

From San Francisco, take Highway 101 north to the Sir Francis Drake Boulevard exit. Follow Sir Francis Drake through San Anselmo and Lagunitas. At the intersection with Highway 1, go north to the Point Reyes National Seashore office in Olema, pick up a map, and then follow Bear Valley Road to Sir Francis Drake Boulevard. Take Sir Francis past Inverness and Tomales Bay State Park and follow the signs to North Beach. Turn left on Mount Vision Overlook Road. Stay on Mount Vision for about 1.4 miles. Look for a wide shoulder with several parked cars on the right. Take the trail that starts here. It veers to the right down a hill 300 feet or so to the pond. If you pass some residences on the left, you’re on the wrong trail. At the end, enter the water via a grassy spot on the dam face

The beach:

Mount Vision is a 150-foot-long lake surrounded by plant growth. “Half of the lake is now marsh,” says Robert Carlsen, of Sacramento.

The crowd:

Sometimes no one, usually fewer than 10 people, both clothed and unclothed.

Problems:

Trail around pond becoming choked by plants; increase in reeds and mud; dam appears to be eroding; trail needs maintenance; cold, fog (but less than at Limantour); no social atmosphere; trail shoes needed.

Bass Lake

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Highly recommended!

Rating: A

After Tracey, of San Anselmo, hiked to what she called “beautiful, clean, sunny” Bass Lake, she went onto a message board in June to urge those who are considering trying the Bolinas attraction to “Go. Go. Go now.” “The trail was a little overgrown. But I had fun swimming nude in the lake,” says regular user Dave Smith, of San Leandro, about his adventure last year. “If you want to visit an enchanted lake, Bass is it,” agrees Ryan, also of the East Bay. “Tree branches reach over the water, forming a magical canopy, and huge bunches of calla lilies bloom on the shore.”

Ryan isn’t kidding: even walking (45-60 minutes from the parking area over 2.8 relatively easy miles) to Bass Lake can be an adventure unlike any other. One time, rangers stopped and cited a clad man who had an unleashed dog, but let the nudists continue. And Smith, who unusually walks naked, has come across bobcats and mountain lions early in the morning. “I came around a corner and there was a mountain lion sitting like Egypt’s Great Sphinx of Giza 50 yards down the path,” he says. Another time, he passed a bend and saw a puma running up the path away from him.

But Bass doesn’t attract as many nudists as it did 10 years ago. “When I first went, everybody was nude,” says Smith, who usually leads a group of Bay Area Naturists once a year for picnicking and swimming outings at Bass, which, by the way, doesn’t have any bass fish. 

“It’s a victim of its own success,” says Pat. “It’s not as nude as before. Sometimes, nudists there are even ostracized. The vibe has changed. Today, most people are cool if you take off your clothes, but some are kind of freaked out.

Although better shoes are advised, you’ll probably see locals wearing flip flops on the trail with either swimsuits under t-shirts or no suits at all, with towels in packs or around their necks.  

Occasional visitor Reese Smith, who led a naturist hike there in September 2010, calls it “gorgeous. It was definitely a good day.” Another fan, who’s a Bay Area judge, rates the water as “exquisite.” Michael Velkoff, who sometimes shows up, says “it’s good place to bring an air mattress” and water shoes, although he prefers sandals. 

Tips:

For the thick and grassy, but sometimes prickly, meadow that visitors use like a lawn in late summer or fall, include a thick towel or sheet in your backpack. Visitor Mark of San Francisco suggests using care if you decide to try the lake’s rope swing to jump up to 20 feet into the water. Inexperienced rope swingers have injured themselves. To prevent mishaps, use both hands on the rope, start with small swings, avoid getting tangled or hitting a tree, and land in the water, away from shore, not the ground, he urges.

Legal status:

Part of Point Reyes National Seashore.

How to find it:

From Stinson Beach, go north on Highway 1. Just north of Bolinas Lagoon, turn left on the often-unmarked exit to Bolinas. Follow the road as it curves along the lagoon and eventually ends at Olema-Bolinas Road, and continue along Olema-Bolinas Road to the stop sign at Mesa Road. Turn right on Mesa and drive four miles, until it becomes a dirt road and ends at a parking lot. On hot days the lot fills quickly, so come early; says Smith, “We once saw hundreds of cars.” A sign at the trailhead next to the lot will guide you down scenic Palomarin Trail, which begins as an old fire road and then narrows. From the grassy meadow mentioned above, it’s just a few easy yards to the water’s edge via any of three paths. One veers to the right; another, more eroded and plant clogged, starts to the left of the meadow; and another, newer trail is between the others.  Users usually find an opening in the foliage and several rocks to jump from.  Crews usually clip back poison oak and other foliage next to the trails each spring.

The beach:

The amazing thing is that even when it’s foggy at the trailhead, it’s often clear at the oblong-shaped, 100-yard-long, spring-fed lake, whose temperature remains constant throughout the year. “It’s very clean,” says Dave Smith. “And it’s so deep that when I swim there with goggles, it turns dark even though I’m not near the bottom.” The area is surrounded by beautiful hills.

The crowd:

The percentage of nudity really varies at Bass, depending on the day and the weather. There could be hardly any skinny-dippers present (Smith was the only person to swim nude during his May visit; Robert Carlsen, of Sacramento, counted five of 75-to-100 visitors on a spring day) to half the crowd (10 of 20 seen by the Bay Area judge on a June outing). “Nonnudists have streamed into the area,” says Pat. “More people are leaving their suits on and are bringing their dogs, radios, and beer.” But once someone starts swimming naked, others sometimes follow. For even more fun and adventure, try the lake’s rope swing (please see tips above).

Problems:

Trail sometimes overgrown; instead of a “beach,” Bass Lake is rimmed by a meadow that’s often muddy or, depending on the season, prickly; long trek; poison oak on rope swing path.

Drake’s Beach

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Rating: C

Suitless sunbathing occasionally occurs on the Point Reyes shore that “bares” the name of British explorer Francis Drake, who is said to have landed his Golden Hinde there in 1579. The beach is near a memorial named after him. Not everyone, though, agrees where Drake came ashore; some experts think it happened in Bodega Bay, Tomales Bay, way to the south in Santa Barbara, or even considerably north, in Coos Bay, Oregon.

Legal status:

Part of Point Reyes National Seashore.

How to find it:

From San Francisco, follow Highway 101 north to the Sir Francis Drake Boulevard exit. Stay on Sir Francis Drake through San Anselmo and Lagunitas. At the intersection with Highway 1, go north to the Point Reyes National Seashore headquarters in Olema. Pick up a map, then follow Sir Francis Drake Boulevard to Drake’s Beach Road and stay on it until you reach the beach. If you wind up at Point Reyes Lighthouse, you’ve gone too far.

The beach:

Beautiful, untamed, and sandy.

The crowd:

Visited mostly by nonnudists, Drake’s also attracts a few discreet skinny-dippers.

Problems:

Cold water; wind; directions could be improved.

Kelham Beach

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Rating: C

Kelham Beach features a spring-fed waterfall that spills down the cliffs.  Hikers sometimes sunbathe or swim naked at the site.  Remembers visitor Michael Velkoff, who went nude there:  “Just past Arch Rock, which parallels the beach, there’s a trail that cuts through the woods on the bluff above the beach and takes you there.” The final portion of the footpath to the sand is, he adds, “about 25 yards long. At the north end of the beach, look for an arch-shaped tunnel leading to what some people call Real Secret Beach. “Visitors should use caution when visiting this beach,” warns a National Park Service site. “High tides frequently cover much of the beach.”

Legal status:

Part of Point Reyes National Seashore.

How to find it:

In Point Reyes, a 4.8 mile trek from the Bear Valley trailhead, starting at the end of the Bear Valley Parking Lot, brings hikers to an overlook above Kelham. But getting there requires more like a three-to-six hour walk of just over 8 miles via the Bear Valley Trail, which is considered the Seashore’s most popular path. You’ll go through a forest of firs and other trees that provide protection from sun, wind, and fog, next to Bear Valley Creek. The beach overlook is at Arch Rock. Follow signs to Kelham Beach, off the Kelham Beach Trail, whose cutoff, near a huge eucalyptus tree, is about .8 mile north on the Coast Trail.

The beach:

The National Park Service calls Kelham a “quiet, secluded beach.” For photos of Kelham and its waterfall, go to: www.scaruffi.com/monument/hikes07/rrey.html and Google images.

The crowd:

Probably just you and other hikers.

Problems:

Fog; wind; cold water; long hike; lack of others to help you if you fall.

Limantour Beach

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Highly Recommended!

Rating: B

At Limantour, in Point Reyes National Seashore, you can walk a mile wearing nothing but your smile.  “I just head away from any people and put my towel down in the dunes or against a wall,” says Lucas Valley’s Michael Velkoff.  “Nobody else bothers you.  Of course, I carry a pair of shorts, just in case I need to put them on.  I love it at Limantour.  Plus it has tons of nice sand.” You may also want to don a pair of binoculars for watching birds, seals, and other wildlife.  This May, Velkoff saw a whale from his vantage point on the sand; he’s also seen porpoises frolicking just offshore.

The long shoreline is one of America’s most beautiful beaches, yet few visitors realize the narrow spit of sand, between Drakes Bay and an estuary, is clothing-optional. The site is so big — about 2.5 miles in length — you can wander for hours, checking out ducks and other waterfowl, shorebirds such as snowy plovers (if you are lucky enough to see these endangered birds on the north end of the beach), gray whales (including mothers and their calves during spring), and playful harbor seals (offshore and at the north edge of the sand). Dogs are allowed on six-foot leashes on the south end of the beach.

“Usually, nobody hassles you,” says Velkoff.  “I wanted to be comfortable and I knew it was going to be hot, so I went there.  It’s a really mellow place. I just love the open space.”

Velkoff suggests walking from the parking lot for 10 minutes or several hundred feet before removing your clothes. “Where we sit, the closest person is usually 100-to-150 yards away,” he says. Another popular spot for disrobing is the sand dunes on the north end, which provide protection from the wind. Nudity is allowed, as long as it’s away from the main public areas, such as next to the parking lots of Point Reyes’ beaches. “You shouldn’t rip your clothes off right after you’ve left your car and then walk through a picnic area on the way to the beach,” former district ranger Marc Yeston has told us. “If you think a family nearby might be offended, maybe you should choose a more discreet area.”  Rangers will respond to complaints.

During another visit, Velkoff was surprised by rangers, even though he says he wasn’t near a main public area.  “My wife and I were stretched out,” he recalls.  “I turned around and there were 10-12 rangers there.  One said, ‘This is a family beach.  You gotta put your pants on.’  It turned out that it was the one day a year when all the rangers take their training tour of the beach.”

Tip: on spring weekends or warm days in the summer, arrive by 10:30 a.m. or the parking lot may be full.  Overflow parking is available a half mile away.

Legal status:

Property of Point Reyes National Seashore. Would a ranger cite a naked person lying on his or her back out of sight of others? “Probably not,” former district ranger Marc Yeston told us. “It seems about as innocuous as it can get. If somebody is away from other people, I can’t imagine it would arouse a problem with any of the rangers.”

How to find it:

From San Francisco, take Highway 101 north to the Sir Francis Drake Boulevard exit, then follow Sir Francis through San Anselmo and Lagunitas to Olema. At the intersection with Highway 1, turn right onto 1. Just north of Olema, go left on Bear Valley Road. A mile after the turnoff for the Bear Valley Visitor Center, turn left (at the Limantour Beach sign) on Limantour Road and follow it 11 miles to the parking lot at the end. Walk north a half-mile until you see some dunes about 50 yards east of the shore. Nudists usually prefer the valleys between the dunes for sunbathing. “One Sunday we had 200 yards to ourselves,” Velkoff says.  But lately, the dunes have been more crowded.

The beach:

Sprawling Limantour features soft sand, sand dunes, and plenty of wildlife. In late spring whales can often be seen. To see hundreds of seals, walk north of the “nude dunes” mentioned above until you come to the point known as Limantour Spit. Swimming is fairly safe.

The crowd:

Even with several hundred visitors on the sand on a hot weekend day, Limantour is so large that it usually looks deserted.

Problems:

Increased ranger warnings; parking lot fills early on hot days; complaints about sex; fog, cold water, and wind. If you don’t like dogs, stay away from the area south of the parking lot. (Dogs are not allowed on the north end, near the seal colony, and only on six-foot leashes on the south end.)

Sculptured Beach

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Recommended!

Rating: B

Whether you’re a naturist or not, Sculptured Beach is one of the best places to be on a warm day. From stunning views to much-cherished privacy and awesome sand, the site offers plenty of “pluses.” Plus as long as you don’t go nude near the public entrances to beaches and don’t do anything that will draw complaints, almost anything goes here and at the rest of the Point Reyes National Seashore. The beach is so big that, away from the parking lots and paths, there’s lots of space where visitors can disrobe without bothering nonnudists. To avoid fog and wind, consult forecasts before heading out. Expect a moderately long walk to good sun spots. Tip: go exploring. There’s lots to check out, including tide pools, rock formations, a blowhole, whales, dolphins, and some of California’s most beautiful sunsets.

Legal status:

Property of Point Reyes National Seashore. See ranger comments in next entry.

How to find it:

From San Francisco, take Highway 101 north to the Sir Francis Drake Boulevard exit. Then follow Sir Francis Drake through San Anselmo and Lagunitas. At the intersection with Highway 1, go north. Pick up a map at the ranger office in Olema off Highway 1, then take Limantour Road to Limantour Beach and hike three miles south, passing Coast Camp, to Sculptured Beach. Or hike seven miles from the ranger office, or battle the tides by walking south two miles along the coast from Limantour.  Two creeks wash down into the ocean between Limantour and Sculptured.

The beach:

Laced with stunning tide pools that are fun to check during low tide and backed by breathtaking cliffs, Sculptured Beach is rugged and narrow.

The crowd:

It’ll probably feel like just you and a few other people.

Problems:

Fog; wind; cold water; long hike.

 

Hagmier Pond

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Rating: A

Even though visitor Fred Jaggi found it to muddy and shallow by Memorial Day this year, the spot regulars call “The Pond” continues to attract nudists. “But it’s not really being used that much for swimming,” says Jaggi. “All along the dam face, there were sunbathers.” Socializing and gay cruising are two other common activities at The Pond. By mid-June, signs warn visitors to stay out of the water due to its high bacteria count. “I used to go there to cool off, but the water’s pretty putrid,” says Michael Velkoff. Suggests Jaggi: “If you visit after July 4, I would bring some water with you to rinse off with.” In recent years, more visits by cops, as well as warnings for public sex, have been reported.

Legal status:

Managed by Point Reyes National Seashore.

How to find it:

From Stinson Beach, go north on Highway 1, passing Audubon Canyon Ranch on the right and, a half mile later, the Bolinas turnoff. After the stand of eucalyptus trees, keep heading north, past the Dogtown Pottery sign and some sharp turns with more eucalyptus. As the road becomes straighter, look for another small group of eucalyptus. The parking area is on the west side, next to a Randall trailhead sign. At the entrance, at milepost 20.53, walk right across the meadow and you’ll see the pond. Look for sunbathing space around the dam.

The beach:

A human-made lake with limited access to the water, except near the dam. “It gets more clogged with weeds every year,” says Dave Smith, of San Leandro. When most bathers are not present, cows sometimes wander down to the water for a drink, creating possible health hazards.  Some visitors, though, say there’s been a noticeable decrease in sightings of the bovines.

The crowd:

Crowds range from a few people to several dozen, except on the warmest days (maybe two or three times a year), when up to 75 mostly nude, mostly gay men can be found; straight folks also visit.

Problems:

Muddy; lake becoming clogged with vegetation; pull-off easy to miss (heading south, if you pass Dogtown, at milepost 18, you’ve gone too far); limited access; cow manure; cold water and varying water quality; sexual activity at or near site sometimes brings rangers.

Starlight Meadow

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Starlight Meadow

Rating: B

Rimmed by a large tract of woods, a Dogwood area field emerged as the USA’s first clothing-optional meadow decades ago. Since then, though, there have been few recent reports about its status. From Hagmier Pond (see next entry), expect about a 20-minute walk to the 60-acre site, which is good for picnicking, sunbathing, reading, and relaxing.

 

Legal status:

GGNRA land managed by Point Reyes National Seashore.

 

How to find it:

From Stinson Beach, go north on Highway 1, passing Audubon Canyon Ranch on the right and, a half mile later, the Bolinas turnoff. After the four-way intersection, look for a GGNRA sign on the right, followed by a eucalyptus grove. Then check for a tree with a sign for Dogtown. Farther along Highway 1, you’ll pass a red barn, a silver windmill, and a second eucalyptus grove. After the grove, when you get to the 12th bend in the road (be sure to count them), look for a group of some 20 eucalyptus trees. Park next to the rocks on either side of the highway. Enter through the lift-up gate in the fence on the east side of the highway, then take an easy, gradually climbing path about 15 or 20 minutes to Starlight, a large meadow in the middle of the trees.

 

The beach:

Not exactly a beach per se, but a meadow ringed by a large expanse of woods.

 

The crowd:

Mostly gay males, but some heterosexual couples also use the meadow. Usage was once as high as 50 people on the hottest summer weekends and as many as 10 on weekdays.

 

Problems:

Lack of recent reports; pullover easy to miss; lack of water; some gawkers; sexual activity; trail may be muddy.

RCA Beach

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Highly recommended!

Rating: A

Want to recharge your life?  A trip to RCA can do just that.  And a single stopover at the beautiful beach will probably inspire you to keep coming back. “It hasn’t changed much in 20 years,” says regular visitor Michael Velkoff.  “A downside is that it’s very exposed to the wind. The good news is that there are lots of nooks that are sheltered from the wind.  And there’s so much driftwood on the sand that many people build windbreaks or even whole forts. You could build a village with all that driftwood. The last time I went, somebody built a 30 foot tall dragon out of it.” Suited and unsuited males and females and families visit the shoreline, which seems even bigger than its one mile length because, adds Velkoff, “we’ll see six people on a beautiful day on a Sunday. Picture Limantour as far as how people are spread out on the sand. Everybody’s like 100 feet apart.  It’s great.”

Legal status:

The Nature Conservancy bought this land in 1977, then transferred it to the Point Reyes National Seashore, which turned around and leased it to Commonwealth Health Center, a nonprofit medical clinic. Official Point Reyes policy is that if there are complaints, nudists will be asked to move elsewhere. In practice, however, just about everyone at RCA is nude.

How to find it:

From Stinson Beach, take Highway 1 (Shoreline Highway) north towards Calle Del Mar for 4.5 miles. Turn left onto Olema Bolinas Road and follow it 1.8 miles to Mesa Road in Bolinas. Turn right and stay on Mesa until you see cars parked past some old transmission towers. Park and walk a quarter mile to the end of the pavement. Go left through the gap in the fence. The trail leads to a gravel road. Follow it until you see a path on your right, leading through a gate. Take it along the cliff top until it veers down to the beach. “It’s maybe a 20 minute walk from your car,” says Velkoff. “It’s steep and eroded, but maybe half the length of the trail at Red Rock.” Or continue along Mesa until you come to a grove of eucalyptus trees. Enter through the gate here, then hike a half mile through a cow pasture on a path that will also bring you through thick brush. The second route is slippery and eroding but less steep. “It’s shorter, but toward the end there’s a rope for you to hold onto going down the cliff,” tells Velkoff.

The beach:

Decent sand that’s good for almost every common beach activity. 

The crowd:

Though seldom deserted, RCA is never crowded and averages 5-20 persons per day. One time, Velkoff counted eight people. On another day, there were just six persons. “It’s a quiet place,” says Velkoff. “Whenever I’ve been there, everyone’s been nude.”  

Problems:

First trail mentioned in bluffs area somewhat steep; other trail slippery and eroding; long hike; rapid current; cold water; swimming not recommended.

Nude Beaches Guide 2014

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garhan@aol.com

NUDE BEACHES 2014 Well, it’s been 40 years since I turned over on my side and asked a totally naked woman at Red Rock nude beach, near Stinson Beach, if she knew of any other clothing-optional beaches in Northern California.

Don’t worry, she didn’t slap me. Jane and I were on our third date — we’d met at a bus stop in downtown Berkeley — which she had casually suggested take place at the beach. “Sure, where’d you like to go?” I asked. “How about Red Rock?” she replied. “Red Rock?” I asked. “I’ve never heard of it.” “It’s a nude beach,” responded Jane.

I didn’t want to sound like a wuss, so, I immediately agreed — and about an hour later, we were walking down a long, moderately steep trail that led us to a beautiful cove. When we arrived, I couldn’t believe what I saw: dozens of people clothed only in their birthday suits. They acted as if being stark naked was no big deal. And so did Jane. She threw down a towel, immediately stripped down, and asked if I would put some sun tan lotion on her back. 

It was a beautiful summer day. People were enjoying themselves. Some were reading, while others were sunning, walking, wading in the chilly but invigorating surf, playing Frisbee, or socializing with friends. Pretty soon, I took off my swimsuit too. Around 30 minutes later, when my eyeballs began to recede back into their sockets, I started wondering how many other nude beaches were in the Bay Area. Jane knew of a half dozen and suggested I speak with her roommates. “They probably know about four or five more,” she said.

And that’s how the annual Bay Guardian Nude Beach Guide was born. From covering a dozen or so beaches, lakes, ponds, skinny-dipping holes, and other clothing-optional spots in 1975, we’ve soared to 130 today, when you include our listings online at www.sfbg.com. They include places where you can camp nude (North Garberville, in Humboldt County), take off your clothes at a waterfall (Alamere Falls, near Bolinas), soak in hot springs (Sykes, near Big Sur, and Steep Ravine, in Marin County), play bare-bottom volleyball (San Francisco’s North Baker Beach), or sunbathe naked at a state park (Gray Whale Cove, in San Mateo County).

Who knows, maybe someday we’ll be able to get everything from sundaes to massages on a nude beach, like those offered at sprawling Haulover Nude Beach, just north of Miami, Fla., which I checked out in June. It draws up to 7,000 visitors a day. The site is part of a park that also has a non-nude beach and even a separate dog play area.

In the meantime, we’ve got plenty of clothing-optional recreation choices right here, especially with the reopening of the nude section of Muir Beach, which, along with the main part of the beach, was closed most of last summer and part of the fall. Want to hike naked through the East Bay hills, guided by a member of the Bay Area Naturists group? America’s only “Full Moon Hikes” will continue this season with a walk starting in Castro Valley on Aug. 10 (see our listing below for Las Trampas under Contra Costa County for details). In Lake Tahoe, at Secret Harbor Creek Beach (also in the Internet version of our guide), you can take part in an “only wear a hat” day Aug. 17. And on Sept. 20, fans of Santa Cruz’s popular Bonny Doon Beach will be getting together to help remove trash from the sand.

Speaking of help, to help beachgoers and naturists, please send me your new beach discoveries, trip reports, and improved directions (especially road milepost numbers), along with your phone number to garhan@aol.com or Gary Hanauer, c/o San Francisco Bay Guardian, 835 Market, Suite 550, San Francisco, CA 94103.

Our ratings: “A” stands for a beach that is large or well-established and where the crowd is mostly nude; “B” signifies a spot where fewer than half the visitors are nude; “C” indicates a small or emerging nude area; and “D” depicts places that are in use, but not recommended.

 

SAN FRANCISCO

NORTH BAKER BEACH, SAN FRANCISCO

RATING: A

Complete with nude volleyball that’s open to anyone, driftwood “art trees” (last year’s was called Sea Hag), and occasional live music performed by beachgoers — mostly guitar and drums — almost anything goes on the north end of Baker, where the atmosphere is playful and increasingly social. Over the winter, storms washed away a chunk of the sand (which is starting to return) and all the wooden objects. But Baker’s regular visitors, led by the local street fair organizer who prefers to be called Santosh, have erected a new tree. If you join in a game on the sand, don’t expect the rules to necessarily be the same ones you followed as a kid. For example, it’s considered fair and in play if a ball touches one of the site’s driftwood poles. Of course, you don’t need to do anything at Baker — it’s a great place to relax and be yourself. Or you could go exploring! For a treat, wait until low tide and try finding the beach’s “secret” tidepools by walking around the big rocks at the far north side of the beach. One thing that’s not tolerated at Baker: gawkers. “People let them know we don’t like it,” says Santosh. “We want to keep things mellow.”

Directions: Take the 29 Sunset bus or go north on 25th Avenue to Lincoln Boulevard. Turn right and take the second left onto Bowley Street. Follow Bowley to Gibson Road, turn right, and follow Gibson to the east parking lot. At the beach, head right to the nude area, which starts at the brown and yellow “Hazardous surf, undertow, swim at your own risk” sign. Some motorcycles in the lot have been vandalized, possibly by car owners angered by bikers parking in car spaces; to avoid trouble, motorcyclists should park in the motorcycle area near the cyclone fence. Parking at Lincoln’s 100 or more nearby parking spaces is limited to two hours.

 

LANDS END BEACH, SAN FRANCISCO

RATING: A

Want to star in your own picture-perfect postcard? Lands End’s lovely vistas are just the start of an outing you may wish to call Swim Suit’s End. Law enforcers seldom visit the cove off Geary Boulevard, where some visitors doff their togs, often to the surprise of tourists who walk down the beach path, hoping for some good photo opportunities. The site is super small, so on summer weekends, try to stake out a claim to some towel space by late morning. For the best sand, use one of the unoccupied rock-lined windbreaks traditionally made by previous visitors or look for a dab of soft soil further away from the beach entrance. Bring a sweatshirt for sudden fog or wind.

Directions: Follow Geary Boulevard to the end, then park in the dirt lot up the road from the Cliff House. Take the trail at the far end of the lot. About 100 yards past a bench and some trash cans, the path narrows and bends, then rises and falls, eventually becoming the width of a road. Don’t take the road to the right, which leads to a golf course. Just past another bench, as the trail turns right, go left toward a group of dead trees where you will see a stairway and a “Dogs must be leashed” sign. Descend and head left to another stairway, which leads to a 100-foot walk to the cove. Or, instead, take the service road below the El Camino del Mar parking lot 1/4 mile until you reach a bench, then follow the trail there. It’s eroded in a few places. At the end, you’ll have to scramble over some rocks. Turn left (west) and walk until you find a good place to put down your towel.

 

GOLDEN GATE BRIDGE BEACH, SAN FRANCISCO

RATING: A

On hot summer days, Golden Gate Bridge Beach’s mix of rocks and sand swarms with dozens or even hundreds of gay males. You can also find others here too, either sunbathing or enjoying dips in the usually cold surf. If you’re brave enough to swim here, please use caution: the area’s known for its riptides. Three side-by-side coves line the somewhat rocky shoreline, so if you want to do a little exploring, feel free. And don’t forget to look up and soak in a view of the glistening edifice for which the beach is named.

Directions: From the toll booth area of Highway 101/1, take Lincoln Boulevard west about a half mile to Langdon Court. Turn right (west) on Langdon and look for space in the parking lots, across Lincoln from Fort Winfield Scott. Park and then take the beach trail, starting just west of the end of Langdon, down its more than 200 steps to Golden Gate Bridge Beach, also known as Marshall’s Beach. Despite recent improvements, the trail to the beach can still be slippery, especially in the spring and winter.

 

FORT FUNSTON BEACH, SAN FRANCISCO

RATING: C

Barely a bare beach, we include “Fort Fun,” as some naturists call it, in our listings because a few diehard suitless sunbathers can occasionally be found on the shore, hidden between some of the dunes. You’ll likely be busted or given a warning, though, if a ranger spots your naked body or if somebody uses their cell phone to call in a complaint. Weekdays are the best times to avoid hassles from authorities, but you should still be prepared to suit up fast. Did we mention the dogs? If you like them, then be prepared for a nice bonus: The cliffs above the beach attract a never-ending parade of pooches and their human companions.

Directions: From San Francisco, go west to Ocean Beach, then south on the Great Highway. After Sloat Boulevard, the road heads uphill. From there, curve right onto Skyline Boulevard, go past one stoplight, and look for signs for Funston on the right. Turn into the public lot and find a space near the west side. At the southwest end, take the sandy steps to the beach, turn right, and walk to the dunes. Find a spot as far as possible from the parking lot.

 

CONTRA COSTA COUNTY

LAS TRAMPAS REGIONAL WILDERNESS, CASTRO VALLEY

RATING: C

Have you ever been on a naked hike — at night? Now’s your chance to sign something off your Bucket List that you probably never knew should be on it: taking a guided walk by the light of the silvery moon — and your flashlight — along a somewhat challenging, but, participants say, “doable” East Bay ridge just after sunset and then returning for a dip in the hot tub of the Sequoians Naturist Club, in Castro Valley. These “Full Moon Hikes” usually take place in July, August, and September (next one is Aug. 10) with a potluck held at the club before Dave Smith, of the Bay Area Naturists group, takes fully clothed walkers up a trail just as darkness begins to fall. When the moon rises, the hikers come back down the path — usually naked, with their duds stored in their backpacks, after what some trekkers describe as an epic, almost spiritual adventure.

Directions: Contact the Sequoians (www.sequoians.com) or the Bay Area Naturists (www.bayareanaturists.org) for details on how to join a walk. Meet at the Sequoians. To get there, take Highway 580 east to the Crow Canyon Road exit. Or follow 580 west to the first Castro Valley off-ramp. Take Crow Canyon Road toward San Ramon 0.75 mile to Cull Canyon Road. Then follow Cull Canyon Road around 6.5 miles to the end of the paved road. Take the dirt road on the right until the “Y” in the road and keep left. Shortly after, you’ll see The Sequoians sign. Proceed ahead for about another 0.75 mile to The Sequoians front gate.

 

SAN MATEO COUNTY

DEVIL’S SLIDE, MONTARA

RATING: A

A state park that tolerates nude sunbathing? It’s not officially designated that way, but officials in charge of Gray Whale Cove remain steadfast in their toleration of nudies, some of whom have been coming here for decades, as long as complaints are not received. Even if phoned-in objections were received, it’s doubtful whether rangers, who are seldom present, could reach the sand in time to catch an offender. Over the last few years, GWC, more commonly known as Devil’s Slide, has been attracting so many visitors to its 100-yard long seashore that park staff recently added a second parking lot. But only one in every two or three dozen people go nude on the north end of the stunning shoreline, which draws tourists from around the world. You’ll usually find plenty of space here, even on a hot summer day.

Directions: Driving from San Francisco, take Highway 1 south through Pacifica. Three miles south of the Denny’s restaurant in Linda Mar, at 500 Linda Mar Blvd., Pacifica, and just past and south of the Tom Lantos Tunnels, turn left (inland or east) on an unmarked road, which takes you to the beach’s parking lots on the east and west sides of the highway and to a 146-step staircase that leads to the sand. Coming from the south on Highway 1, look for a road on the right (east), 1.2 miles north of the old Chart House restaurant in Montara. Most naturists use the north end of the beach, which is separated by rocks from the rest of the shore. Wait until low tide to make the crossing to the nude area. Otherwise, you may face waves crashing against you, which could cause you to slip and lose your footing.

 

SAN GREGORIO NUDE BEACH, SAN GREGORIO

RATING: A

Nearly 50 years old, the USA’s longest-operating clothing optional beach is located next to, but remains distinctly different from San Gregorio State Beach. For a view of conditions, check out its web cam at www.freewebs.com/sangregoriobeach. Skinny-dippers started flocking here by 1966 after a “Committee For Free Beaches” was formed by a San Francisco State College student who, along with a few pals, distributed fliers at colleges in the San Francisco Bay Area announcing the start of a “free beach,” as they called it. Soon, up to 500 persons were showing up on the sand on weekends. A court case to try to stop the venture failed, but that hasn’t stopped the private operation from remaining controversial. The main rub: Not everyone likes the driftwood structures on the slope leading down to the beach (a T-shirt hanging from a pole means the site is occupied), where open sex often occurs. Catering to mostly gay visitors, both nude and nonnude straight couples, singles, and families also visit the huge beach.

Directions: From San Francisco, drive south on Highway 1, past Half Moon Bay, and, between mileposts 18 and 19, look on the right side of the road for telephone call box number SM 001 0195, at the intersection of Highway 1 and Stage Road, and near an iron gate with trees on either side. From there, expect a drive of 1.1 miles to the entrance. At the Junction 84 highway sign, the beach’s driveway is just .1 mile away. Turn into a gravel driveway, passing through the iron gate mentioned above, which says 119429 on the gatepost. Drive past a grassy field to the parking lot, where you’ll be asked to pay an entrance fee. Take the long path from the lot to the sand; everything north of the trail’s end is clothing-optional (families and swimsuit-using visitors tend to stay on the south end of the beach). The beach is also accessible from the San Gregorio State Beach parking area to the south; from there, hike about a half-mile north. Take the dirt road past the big white gate with the Toll Road sign to the parking lot.

 

SANTA CRUZ COUNTY

GARDEN OF EDEN, FELTON

RATING: C

Nude spelled backwards is Edun, so it’s little wonder that California’s Garden of Eden would attract scads of clothing-optional users. It’s located on the San Lorenzo River between San Jose and Santa Cruz. Nudity is technically illegal in Henry Cowell Redwoods State Park, where this creekside skinnydipper’s delight is nestled. Not everyone likes the nudists, who often shock the many swimsuit-wearing visitors who like to take a dip here on hot days. Other bummers include slippery, poison oak-lined trails and surprise visits by rangers. To discover your own personal Eden and several other nude swimming holes, as you drive north along Highway 9 near Fulton look for cars pulled over on the side of the road. Directions: From Santa Cruz, drive north on Highway 9 and look for turnouts on the right side of the road, where cars are pulled over. The first, a wide turnout with a tree in the middle, is just north of Santa Cruz. Rincon Fire Trail starts about where the tree is, according to reader Robert Carlsen, of Sacramento. The many forks in the trail all lead to the river, down toward Big Rock Hole and Frisbee Beach; Carlsen says the best area off this turnout can be reached by bearing left until the end of the trail. Farther up the highway, 1.3 miles south of the park entrance, is the second and bigger pullout, called the Ox Trail Turnout, leading to Garden of Eden. Park in the turnout and follow the dirt fire road downhill and across some railroad tracks. Head south, following the tracks, for around 0.5 miles. Look for a “Pack Your Trash” sign with park rules and hours and then proceed down the Eden Trail. Or, about three miles south of the park entrance, look for a dirt parking lot, park there, and take the path from there to some beaches that attract fewer people than the Garden.

 

BONNY DOON NUDE BEACH, BONNY DOON

RATING: A

Fans of this beautiful cove were pleased to learn last year that state officials plan to allow nudity, unless there are complaints, to continue on the north end of the beach, despite warning signs that were erected but taken down just a few weeks later. A big rock separates the clothing-optional side of the shore from the area traditionally used by families and other clothed visitors to the south. While some visitors joke on social media message boards about the increase in gray-haired beachgoers on the sand (a Redwood City woman recently told Yelp the beach needs “some hot dudes” and a female from San Jose compared the women there to those on the “Golden Girls” tv show), others have posted more serious remarks about the gawkers and rude males who occasionally show up. Most visitors, though, relish the tranquil, almost idyllic atmosphere they encounter. Directions: From San Francisco, go south on Highway 1 to the Bonny Doon parking lot at milepost 27.6 on the west side of the road, 2.4 miles north of Red, White, and Blue Beach, and some 11 miles north of Santa Cruz. From Santa Cruz, head north on Highway 1 until you see Bonny Doon Road, which veers off sharply to the right just south of Davenport. The beach is just off the intersection. Park in the paved lot to the west of Highway 1; don’t park on Bonny Doon Road or the shoulder of Highway 1. If the lot is full, drive north on Highway 1, park at the next beach lot, and walk back to the first lot. Or take Santa Cruz Metro Transit District bus route 40 to the lot; it leaves the Metro Center three times a day on Saturdays and takes about 20 minutes. To get to the beach, climb the berm next to the railroad tracks adjacent to the Bonny Doon lot, cross the tracks, descend, and take a recently improved, sign-marked trail to the sand. Walk north past most of the beach to the nude cove on the north end. Alternately, Dusty suggests parking as far north as possible, taking the northern entrance, and, with good shoes, following a “rocky and steep” — and less desirable — walk down to the sand. It can be slippery, so wear good shoes.

 

PANTHER BEACH, SANTA CRUZ

RATING: B

“This is my all time favorite spot,” reported a Redwood City resident after a visit this April. This “is (also) a nude beach,” added Taylen, on Yelp, who’s even seen naked people fishing at this modestly sized but gorgeous beach, some 10 miles north of Santa Cruz. Bring a beach umbrella, a windbreaker in case the weather changes, and sturdy walking shoes for the path to the sand. Pick from such activities as reading, sunbathing, rock climbing, swimming, exploring the shore, picnicking, birding, whale watching, or doing absolutely nothing at all.

Directions: Panther Beach is between mileposts 26.86 and 26.4 on Highway 1, some 10.6 miles north of the junction of Highway 1 and 17 in Santa Cruz and 40.7 miles south of the intersection of Highways 1 and 92 in Half Moon Bay. Drive slowly so you can make a sharp right turn onto a small dirt road on the west side of the highway, which is difficult to see when approaching from the north. The road leads to a rutted parking area that lies on a ridge between the highway and some railroad tracks. From the north end of the lot, cross the tracks and, while watching for poison oak, follow the steep, sloping, somewhat crumbly path about five minutes to the sand. Visitors this season suggest holding onto rocks or ledges along the trail’s more slippery spots for extra support.

 

2222 BEACH, SANTA CRUZ

RATING: A

Delightful but difficult to reach, 2222 takes its name from the address of the nearest house on West Cliff Drive, just north of Santa Cruz’s popular wharf and Boardwalk areas. It’s also one of the smallest clothing-optional beaches. You’ll be lucky to encounter more than a half dozen persons in the cove — often you’ll be alone — which mainly attracts nearby residents and local college students. A bonus is that walkers on the road above can’t see the beach from there. Yup, a visit here is like having your own private nude beach, unless you count the juggler who likes to practice on the sand. But the beach path is only suitable for people who are agile enough to handle a scary-looking, very steep slope. Leave children and anything that doesn’t fit in a backpack at home.

Directions: The beach is a few blocks west of Natural Bridges State Beach and about 2.5 miles north of the Santa Cruz Boardwalk. From either north or south of Santa Cruz, take Highway 1 to Swift Street. Drive .8 miles to the sea, then turn right on West Cliff Drive. 2222 is five blocks away. Past Auburn Avenue, look for 2222 West Cliff on the inland side of the street. Park in the pullout with eight parking spaces next to the cliff, on the west side of the road. If it’s full, continue straight and park along Chico Avenue. Bay Area Naturists leader Rich Pasco suggests visitors use care and then follow the path on the side of the beach closest to downtown Santa Cruz and the Municipal Wharf.

 

PRIVATES BEACH, SANTA CRUZ

RATING: A

One of Northern California’s best nude beaches, Privates (yes that’s the name) gets almost a unanimous thumbs up from visitors for its clean sand, shelter from the wind, and friendly vibes. New this year: During the summer, the gate to the beach is only open until 7 or 8pm. And dogs are no longer always allowed: They’re banned on weekends 10am-5pm and must always be leashed. Most users pay a fee of $50–$100 (depending on if you live in the neighborhood) to buy a gate key that allows entrance, past a security guard at the top of the beach stairs, through May 31. But we list three ways to go for free below under “Directions.” Nudists, families, and local residents love the cove, which is divided into two parts — clad and unclad. Surfers, in particular, can be found by the dozens on the sand or paddling out. Want to play nude Frisbee? At the end of the staircase to the sand, turn left and keep walking until you come to the clothing-optional area.

Directions: 1) Some visitors walk north from Capitola Pier in low tide (not a good idea since at least four people have needed to be rescued). 2) Others reach it in low tide via the stairs at the end of 41st Avenue, which lead to a surf spot called the Hook at the south end of a rocky shore known as Pleasure Point. 3) Surfers paddle on boards for a few minutes to Privates from Capitola or the Hook. 4) Most visitors buy a key to the beach gate for $100 a year at Freeline (821 41st Ave., Santa Cruz, 831-476-2950) 1.5 blocks west of the beach. Others go with someone with a key or wait outside the gate until a person with a key goes in, provided a security guard is not present (they often are there). “Most people will gladly hold the gate open for someone behind them whose hands are full,” says Bay Area Naturists leader Rich Pasco. The nude zone starts to the left of the bottom of the stairs.

 

MARIN COUNTY

BASS LAKE, BOLINAS

RATING: B

Although it is not visited by as many nudists as a decade ago, skinny-dippers still inspire some visitors in what’s usually a mostly clothed crowd to join in the fun at Bass Lake, which true to its name, has lots of bass. Natalie, of San Francisco, described a day here as “unreal” on Yelp last summer. “The hike is super mellow.” She brought floaters, but found others left in the water. Another summer visitor, Julia, borrowed floaties from some women at the site. “It was so relaxing,” she says. San Leandro’s Dave Smith, who usually even walks naked to the lake — expect a nearly hourlong, fairly easy, 2.8 mile hike — says he “loves” spending time in Bass’ clear, refreshing waters. Rangers once halted and ticketed a clad man who had an unleashed dog, but let a group of nude walkers continue. On hot days the trailhead’s parking lot fills quickly, so come early — by 9:30 a.m., according to Steve, of Newark, who used the trail this June, or possibly as late as 10:30 a.m., reported by another June visitor, Addi, of El Cerrito.

Directions: Allow about an hour for the drive from San Francisco’s Golden Gate Bridge. From Stinson Beach, go north on Highway 1. Just north of Bolinas Lagoon, turn left on the often-unmarked exit to Bolinas. Follow the road as it curves along the lagoon and eventually ends at Olema-Bolinas Road. Continue along Olema-Bolinas Road to the stop sign at Mesa Road. Turn right on Mesa and drive four miles until it becomes a gravel road and ends at the Palomarin parking lot. Arrive as early as possible. Says Smith: “We once saw hundreds of cars.” A sign at the trailhead next to the lot will guide you down scenic Palomarin Trail to the lake. For directions to incredibly beautiful Alamere Falls, 1.5 miles past Bass Lake, which empties onto a beach at the sea, please see “Elsewhere In Marin” in our online listings.

 

RED ROCK BEACH, STINSTON BEACH

RATING: A

The Bay Area’s most popular nude beach is in good shape this year. “It’s in great condition,” says frequent visitor Fred Jaggi. “Winter storms didn’t knock down the terraces (above the beach). And the sand is really nice this season.” Warmer than usual weather has been sending crowds of up to 100 persons to the picturesque cove, up from 80 last year, but about the same number as 2012. If you arrive too late in the day to find space on the sand, try visiting on a Monday to join a small group of regular visitors for what they call “Club Day.” If possible, bring a folding beach chair. Save about 10-15 minutes to take a moderately steep but three-to-five-foot-wide trail to the beach, which is usually kept in great shape by volunteers. Even so, the last few feet of the path may sometimes be a bit slippery.

Directions: Go north on Highway 1 from Mill Valley, following the signs to Stinson Beach. At the long line of mailboxes next to the Muir Beach cutoff point, start checking your odometer. Look for a dirt lot full of cars to the left (west) of the highway 5.6 miles north of Muir and a smaller one on east side of the road. The lots are at milepost 11.3, one mile south of Stinson Beach. Limited parking is also available 150 yards to the south on the west side of Highway 1. Or from Mill Valley, take the West Marin/Bolinas Stage toward Stinson Beach and Bolinas. Get off at the intersection of Panoramic Highway and Highway 1. Then walk south 0.6 mile to the Red Rock lots. Take the path to the beach that starts near the Dumpster next to the main parking lot.

 

MUIR NUDE BEACH, MUIR BEACH

RATING: A

After being closed to the public most of last summer and fall, Muir Beach has reopened with improvements galore, including a relocated parking lot (it’s now parallel with the beach road, called Pacific Way), new restrooms, and a new, 400-foot long walkway to the sand. Most important of all, access to the gorgeous, clothing-optional cove just north of the main beach has also been reopened. “The walk takes a little longer,” says recent visitor Michael Velkoff, of Lucas Valley. “But the beach was fine.” Known for its peace and quiet, Muir is a less social beach than nearby Red Rock. It’s also less crowded (even on warm summer days, you’re more apt to see 30-40 people instead of hundreds) and far easier to reach, without any trail to take or any poison oak to ruin your day: You park at the main Muir lot, walk north along the water, cross over some rocks (in very low tide, try to cross closer to the water), and you’re there. Women, in particular, seem to like the vibes of Muir, which attracts fewer gawkers — often none — than most sites.

Directions: From San Francisco, take Highway 1 north to Muir Beach, to milepost 5.7. Turn left on Pacific Way and park in the Muir lot (to avoid tickets, don’t park on Pacific, even if other vehicles are parked there). Or park on the street off Highway 1 across from Pacific and about 100 yards north. From the Muir lot, follow a path and boardwalk to the sand. Then walk north to a pile of rocks between the cliffs and the sea. You’ll need good hiking or walking shoes to cross; in very low tide, try to cross closer to the water. The nude area starts north of it.

 

RCA BEACH, BOLINAS

RATING: A

Are you looking for a place to restore your sanity and recharge you from the stress of everyday life? Then you may want to visit RCA Beach, which is never crowded and averages just 5-20 visitors per day. Plus they’re usually spread out along the milelong shoreline, which gives the site an almost deserted feeling. “It’s a quiet place,” says one regular user. “And most people there are nude.” The site is somewhat exposed, so some regulars usually look for sunbathing nooks that are a little protected from the wind or even build windbreaks from driftwood they find on the sand. There are two beach trails from which to pick: one that’s long and steep or a shorter path that’s less steep but crumbling and slippery.

Directions: From Stinson Beach, take Highway 1 (Shoreline Highway) north toward Calle Del Mar for 4.5 miles. Turn left onto Olema Bolinas Road and follow it 1.8 miles to Mesa Road in Bolinas. Turn right and stay on Mesa until you see cars parked past some old transmission towers. Park and walk 0.25 miles to the end of the pavement. Go left through the gap in the fence. The trail leads to a gravel road. Follow it until you see a path on your right, leading through a gate. Take it along the cliff top until it veers down to the beach. Or continue along Mesa until you come to a grove of eucalyptus trees. Enter through the gate here, then hike 0.5 miles through a cow pasture on a path that will also bring you through thick brush. The second route is slippery and eroding, but less steep. “It’s shorter, but toward the end there’s a rope for you to hold onto going down the cliff,” tells the veteran visitor.

 

LIMANTOUR BEACH, OLEMA

RATING: B

Want to know a secret about Point Reyes National Seashore? Rangers usually won’t issue citations for nude sunbathing unless you’re close to a clothed visitor or someone complains. “You shouldn’t rip your clothes off right after you’ve left your car and then walk nude through a picnic area on the way to the beach,” former Point Reyes district Ranger Marc Yeston told us. “Usually, nobody hassles you,” says Marin County resident Michael Velkoff. “I knew it was going to be hot, so I went to Limantour. It’s a really mellow place. I just love the open space.” The more than two miles of shoreline are perfect for walking, birding, or whale and seal-watching. Dogs are okay on the south end of the beach. Naturists suggest walking at least 10 minutes away from the parking lot and more than 300 feet away from fellow beachgoers before even considering disrobing. Others prefer the sand dunes on the north side.

Directions: From San Francisco, take Highway 101 north to the Sir Francis Drake Boulevard exit, then follow Sir Francis through San Anselmo and Lagunitas to Olema. At the intersection with Highway 1, turn right onto 1. Just north of Olema, go left on Bear Valley Road. A mile after the turnoff for the Bear Valley Visitor Center, turn left (at the Limantour Beach sign) on Limantour Road and follow it 11 miles to the parking lot at the end. Walk north a half-mile until you see some dunes about 50 yards east of the shore. Nudists usually prefer the valleys between the dunes for sunbathing.

 

MENDOCINO COUNTY

LILIES BEACH, MENDOCINO

RATING: A

If you’re visiting the town of Mendocino, a stopover at Lilies can be a real treat. Even with lower water than usual this year, the clothing-optional swimming hole here is simply delightful. “I like it because it keeps getting sunlight late into the day and has a nice gravel sand bar,” says Jeanne Coleman, education director of the Mendocino Woodlands Camp Association, which offers great group camping facilities just a few minutes from this Big River treasure. Best times to visit are summer or early fall. Even when it’s foggy in downtown Mendo, temperatures may be in the 80s at Lilies, where there’s usually a mix of men and women and up to 50 percent of them nude. “I often see people stop off who have been mountain biking,” adds Coleman.

Directions: Take Highway 1 north to Mendocino, then turn right on Little Lake Road, the first right turn past the main Mendocino turnoff sign. Drive four or five miles east on Little Lake until you see a sign for Mendocino Woodlands. Follow the dirt road that starts there for about three miles. When you see the Woodlands retreat, go right about 0.3 miles, until the dirt road ends next to Big River. Park just off the road, where you see other cars pulled over. Follow the trail that begins there a quarter mile to the beach. Or, to save 1.5 miles, from Mendocino drive 3.5 miles east on Little Lake until you spot a dirt road with a yellow Forest Service gate. Follow the road to a second yellow gate. Just past the gate, at the juncture of several roads, turn right and take the dirt road to the parking area. The walk from the Woodlands only takes about 20 minutes.

 

HUMBOLDT COUNTY

NORTH GARBERVILLE NUDE BEACH, GARBERVILLE

RATING: C

A nude beach where you can camp near a river or enjoy an afternoon of reading, tanning or swimming? Just five miles from Garberville, off Highway 101 at Exit 645 (Avenue Of The Giants), there’s a beach on the south fork of the Eel River that’s so secluded some visitors stay overnight. Its existence was kept secret by users until we unveiled directions to it in 2011. “It’s an awesome place,” says a recent visitor. “This sandy beach has become a local hangout.” “The beach is excellent for tents,” says reader Dave. “It’s really private and fun.” Nestled among some shade trees, the beach can’t be seen from the road. Some visitors bring tubes or floaties. The skinny-dipping hole measures about 100 feet across, with both deep and shallow swimming areas.

Directions: Go north on Highway 101. About five miles north of Garberville, take Exit 645 (Avenue Of The Giants), turn left, and head south a half mile on the river frontage road there to the spot mentioned below. Or from the north, take Highway 101 south to Exit 645. Take the exit to Hooker Creek Road and continue straight for about 100 feet, where you will see the frontage/service road. You can only go one way onto the service road. Follow it in front of the old Sylvandale Gardens store less than a half mile south along the river. Then park at the orange arrow on the pavement or where you see cars pulled over along the street. Look for a path there (recently marked by a rainbow streamer) and follow it as it curves to the right and takes you about 30 yards to the beach. Local nudies and campers tend to stay on the far right end of the beach.

Nude beaches

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In 1967, Northern California gave birth to America’s first nude beach, at San Gregorio, near Santa Cruz. Now, 40 years later, there’s great news coming from the sand: in the biggest surge in more than a decade, clothing-optional beaches and other skinny-dipping sites are booming once again. Check out our miniguide below. And in the near future, visit an expanded version on the web that includes our unveiling of a pristine cove near Capitola and directions to a place where you can take a naked full-moon hike.

The one bummer? The popular Red White and Blue Beach, in Santa Cruz County, is closing in the wake of the retirement of owner Ralph Edwards.

San Francisco County

LAND’S END BEACH


Tucked away among craggy cliffs, patches of sand, and some of the Bay Area’s best scenery, a nude beach is the last thing you’d expect to find within a short walk of the end of Geary Boulevard. But on warm days, Land’s End usually draws dozens of visitors.

HOW TO FIND IT Go to the end of Geary, and park in the dirt lot up the road from the Cliff House. Take the trail at the far end of the lot. A hundred yards past a bench and some trash cans, the path narrows and bends, rises and falls, and eventually becomes the width of a road. Don’t take the road on the right, which leads to a golf course. Instead, keep going past another bench, and as the trail turns right, take a left toward a group of dead trees. Where there’s a stairway with a Dogs Must Be Leashed sign, descend and head left to another stairway, which leads to a 100-foot walk to the cove. Alternately, follow the service road below the El Camino del Mar parking lot a quarter mile until you reach a bench, then take the trail there. It’s rough in spots, and at the end you’ll scramble over rocks.

THE BEACH Rocks and little watery grottoes. Look for some good sandy areas away from the beach’s entrance. For the best sunbathing spots, walk west (left). Some visitors build little rock windbreaks, which provide protection from blowing sand.

THE CROWD The quarter-mile-long cove gets up to 30 visitors on the warmest days, with up to 80 percent gay male usage being fairly standard. One visitor counted six or so nudes, all men, during a May visit.

PROBLEMS Long walk, random "sex patrols" by rangers, reports of drug use, public sex on trails and nearby. Fog and wind. Quite rocky. Swimming not allowed. Trails other than the main one are unsafe and may be closed and have poison oak.

GOLDEN GATE BRIDGE BEACH


Overrun by fans undeterred by its slippery and often dangerous trails, the Golden Gate Bridge Beach usually turns into a mob scene on summer weekends. The waves don’t break as hard here as at Baker Beach, so on the nicest days in low tide, you can go out up to 50 yards. A favorite activity: watching the sunset while staring toward the site’s namesake, the Golden Gate Bridge. But don’t visit if you’re looking for privacy and solitude. "I had to stop going there because it’s such a pickup scene," frequent visitor Joseph Friday says.

Also known as Nasty Boy Beach and Marshall’s Beach, the shoreline here features a trio of adjacent coves. In the spring, check for beautiful flowers on the bluffs. Drawbacks include some poison oak on the path (often trimmed back by volunteers), which is otherwise unmaintained and becomes a muddy bluish goo after rainstorms. Golden Gate National Recreational Area rangers strongly recommend that visitors stay away from the trails and avoid swimming.

HOW TO FIND IT Go to North Baker Beach, park in the main lot, and walk north along Lincoln Boulevard, passing the sand ladder that leads to North Baker. Just north of the ladder trail, look for a dirt road with a gate leading to Battery Crosby. Follow it, then hike up the trail immediately on the south (left) side of the old fort to the top of the bluff. Rangers recently added some rails that make the path a little easier to follow. Take the trail straight west as it goes downhill toward the ocean (wear long sleeves and pants to protect against poison oak). At a small crumbling concrete bulkhead, the trail heads north along the bluffs and eventually down a shorter, steep section with small steps cut into the gully. The main path ends at the south end of Golden Gate Bridge Beach.

THE BEACH Three small rocky beaches located below Fort Winfield Scott. The main beach trail tends to be slippery, heavily eroded, and dangerous.

THE CROWD During the week, Golden Gate Bridge Beach attracts dozens of users. On weekends, (mostly nude) usage soars to between 100 and 300 visitors on the hottest days.

PROBLEMS Slippery, crumbling, sometimes muddy, and poison oak–edged trails. Trash, rocks, wind, fog, unsafe swimming conditions, sex on the beach, too many people often jammed into too little space.

San Mateo County

DEVIL’S SLIDE


Now that its main access road, landslide-prone Highway 1, is finally reopened, visitors are flocking back to one of California’s only state beaches that officially permit nudity. Called Gray Whale Cove State Beach, the site known to many users as Devil’s Slide draws maybe 200 people on warm days — about 25 percent of them nude.

Nude use is especially popular on the north end of the long sandy shore. If you like Frisbee, it’s easy to find somebody to play with at the cove. Signs, though, warn about dangerous surf. There’s no lifeguard on duty. Dogs are prohibited. The beach is open all year and is one of the only California state parks that doesn’t accept an Annual Day Use Pass.

HOW TO FIND IT From San Francisco take Highway 1 south through Pacifica. Three miles south of the Denny’s Restaurant in Linda Mar, turn east (inland, or left) on an unmarked road, which will take you to the beach’s parking lot, from which a 146-step staircase leads to the sand. Coming from the south on Highway 1, look for a road on the east (right) 1.2 miles north of the Chart House restaurant in Montara.

THE BEACH A 300-foot-long site surrounded by orangish sandstone cliffs on one side and the beautiful Pacific Ocean on the other. Devil’s Slide is a great place to read, tan, jog, play Frisbee, and watch (true to its state beach name) gray whales, pelicans, and surfers.

THE CROWD Tourists, families, surfers, and naturists all use the beach.

PROBLEMS Influx of suited visitors, cold water, fog, wind, long walk to the beach. Landslides sometimes close Highway 1, three great white sharks seen in the ’80s. Parking fee. Some sexual activity reported in north cove area in recent past. Rangers have made a few arrests.

SAN GREGORIO


A visit to San Gregorio combines history with recreation. Approaching its 40th anniversary, clothing-optional, privately run San Gregorio is America’s oldest nude beach, founded right next door to San Gregorio State Beach, where nudity is not allowed. The huge property attracts some nude and suited straight couples, singles, and families. First-timers are sometimes a bit put off by the driftwood structures on the sandy slope leading down to the beach, which are used by some visitors as sex condos. Others relish San Gregorio’s scenery. There are two miles of soft sand and tide pools to explore, as well as a lagoon, a lava tube, and, if you look close enough on the cliffs, the remains of an old railroad.

HOW TO FIND IT From Tunitas Creek Way, south of Half Moon Bay, the beach is about a mile up Highway 1. Around 100 yards north of Highway 84 on 1, take the dirt road past the big white gate with the Toll Road sign. Go a few hundred feet, and just after the 55 mph sign on your right, turn left on the dirt road (look for the address 19429 above the fence) and head past a grassy field to the parking lot, where you’ll be asked to pay an entrance fee. Take the long path from the lot to the sand; everything north of the trail’s end is clothing optional. The beach is also accessible from the San Gregorio State Beach parking area to the south; from there hike about a half mile north. Take the dirt road past the big white gate with the Toll Road sign to the parking lot.

THE BEACH You’ll find caves, cliffs, driftwood structures, and a beach full of clean, rolling sand. Pets are OK (though dogs are not allowed on weekends or holidays); fires, cameras, and overnight camping are banned. Swimming is not recommended. There are toilets in the parking lot.

THE CROWD On the warmest days, 50 to 200 visitors may be spread along the sprawling beach, which is so large that it never feels crowded. Straight couples and families tend to hang out on the south end of the beach, gay men on the north side.

PROBLEMS Fee, wind, riptides, cold water, summer fog, sex on the beach or in driftwood condos, not much of a social atmosphere. *

For more nude beaches, please check out our official guide, which is in the process of being updated.

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