Modern English

culture@sfbg.com

CHOW NOW

People who consider themselves fans of prime rib (raises hand) will probably want to check out the version that’s being made at Charles Phan’s brand-new restaurant, The Coachman (1148 Mission, SF. www.coachmansf.com), now open in the former Heaven’s Dog space in SoMa. Nope, no more Chinese food in that location, and Phan’s not doing Vietnamese either.

The menu is actually inspired by English classics done right (long story), but being in California means there’s going to be a seasonal bent too. The family-style menu includes lamb sweetbreads with mint ($12), potted crab ($14), a tasty beef tartare topped fried smelt ($14), carrots, lentils, and parsley dill sauce with smoked date jam ($14). About that prime rib ($26): It’s cooked in a salt crust for eight hours, and comes with a bone marrow jus and horseradish cream (oh yeah).

Chef de cuisine Ross Wunderlich was brought over from one of Phan’s other restaurants, Hard Water. The space was given a bit of an update, but the look isn’t particularly of note. (Plus side: no tacky pub décor.) Besides, you’ll be more focused on the cocktail menu from Erik Adkins, which highlights punches, cups, cobblers, and some farmhouse and rural drinks. You can even have your drink served in a hunting flask — order the Robert Burns’ Hunting Flask for a maximum ye olde adult beverage experience, or order one of two cask-conditioned ales to go with your dinner.

The former Washington Square Bar & Grill, and recently Bottle Cap, is now The Square (1707 Powell, SF. www.thesquaresf.com), from the Sons & Daughters duo, Teague Moriarty and Matt McNamara. This is not their usual composed cuisine style — think American dishes like a kale with ricotta salata, grilled bavette steak, whole roasted crab, a rack of baby back ribs (for two!), and a burger.

The menu ranges from bar snacks to bigger plates ($7–$24). The late hours (Wed–Sun until 1am) are a bonus, and there’s a full bar, with twists on classics like the 7 ‘n’ 7. Plenty of Cali and European wines as well. The 90-seat space is handsome, with a bar, communal table, and plenty of spots saved for walk-ins, so feel free to swing on by.

 

GET PERKY

A couple new coffee spots have opened, starting with the latest location of Sightglass Coffee (3014 20th St., SF. www.sightglasscoffee.com), right next to Central Kitchen and Trick Dog. What’s interesting is it’s operating more like a roastery focused on micro batches: All the coffee served there is roasted in-house, and it’s the only place where you can get those beans (like the Jerboa’s Jump espresso). It has a great vintage look, with warm globe lights, tobacco leather banquettes, marble-topped counters, and touches of a Deco aesthetic throughout. There are some killer baked goods from Piccino, b. Patisserie, and Neighbor Bakehouse, with a bunch of savory options. Hours are Mon-Sat 7am–8pm, Sun 8am–8pm.

There’s a lot of buzz (har) about the latest location of Réveille Coffee (4076 18th St., www.reveillecoffee.com) in the Castro, another coffee-related biz by two brothers, Tommy and Christopher Newbury. There’s a sweet front patio (great people watching or cruising, whatever you’re up to), and the interior has an appealing design that’s clean and upbeat. People are reportedly digging the savory options, from breakfast goods like bull’s-eye breakfast sandwiches (served until a very generous 1pm) to flatbreads, salads, and sandwiches for lunch and into the evening. Open 7am–9pm daily.

 

BALLIN’ ON A BUDGET

Hot dogs. A bunch of us enjoy our fair share of bacon-covered Mission treats (depends on how much and how late you go out), but there’s a new dog in town: Los Shucos Latin Hot Dogs (3224 1/2 22nd St., www.losshucos.com), from Guatemalan owner Sofia Keck. These street-style puppies are more like a torta, with a griddled bun, your choice of bacon-wrapped sausage or handmade chorizo (they are currently trying to source a vegetarian option), avocado, and imported salsa chapina, a green sauce from Guatemala. Toppings include refried black beans, queso fresco, and scrambled eggs. The dogs range from $5.95 to $7.95, and are as hefty as they are tasty. Woof. Open Sun–Wed 11am–10pm and Thu–Sat 11am–2am.

Marcia Gagliardi is the founder of the weekly tablehopper e-column; subscribe for more at www.tablehopper.com. Get her app: Tablehopper’s Top Late-Night Eats. On Twitter: @tablehopper.

 

Pub date March 4, 2014