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Without Reservations

E!

High hopes and vitamins

Hi-yo Silver!

The higher price of dining in SF

Viva Falletti!

Not too big, not too small -- and just right

One word: plastics

› paulr@sfbg.com These days it is hard to be sure if the American way is war or plastic. Probably both, and since plastic is a petroleum product, and petroleum is a perennial occasion for war,...

Starch Control

› paulr@sfbg.com While we wait to be instructed on the lessons of Iraq by James A. Baker III — the Bush family consigliere assigned the Mosaic task of leading us forth from the Mesopotamian desert...

Over easy

› paulr@sfbg.com Changing public consciousness is an inglorious task that seems to involve a great deal of repetition. There is an art to repetition, to saying the same thing over and over without boring or...

Turkey in the sky

› paulr@sfbg.com Airline food was a rich lode of material for jokery — until there was no more airline food. In the wake of Sept. 11 and apparently as part of the airline industry's determination...

The clarifications

› paulr@sfbg.com Doctrines of infallibility are for popes and neocons, and need I say more? The rest of us lowly humans must make do with the doctrine of fallibility, a splendid coat of many colors....

Fish in the balance

› paulr@sfbg.com When I write about seafood these days, I cringe a little, wondering whether, by describing the eating of fish, I am in effect abetting the collapse of the world's maritime ecosystem. That I...

Don’t block the box

› paulr@sfbg.com In the Thousand Years' War between beer and wine, beer has long enjoyed an advantage on the party battlefield, mostly because of the keg, the bunker buster of party drink delivery. Oh yes,...

Our town

› paulr@sfbg.com A onetime San Franciscan now living in Manhattan recommended that we visit August, in the Village. "It's our Delfina," he said. Delfina is of course a magic word, but the more interesting term in...

Daytripper, yeah

› paulr@sfbg.com Among the many excellent reasons to do some daytripping in the Anderson Valley is to refresh one's sense of hope that the stranglehold of chardonnay and cabernet sauvignon on California's oenophilic imagination isn't...

The Michelin men

› paulr@sfbg.com Although the Michelin guide is no worse an offender than Zagat as a distant judge of our restaurants — its offices are farther away, but only because the guide is French and cannot...

Small change

Bruised, pitted, and withered leaves

Without Reservations

Earth in the goblet

Without Reservations

Backstreet girl

Melons and melancholia

› paulr@sfbg.com There are those who spend the year passionately awaiting Christmas, and then there are those who spend the year passionately awaiting the arrival of charentais melons. Although I like Christmas, I belong, in my...

The viognier quandary

› paulr@sfbg.com The evening's menu was to include shrimp, marinated in paprika and lemon and grilled on skewers, and the issue was wine, as in: which one? "I will bring a viognier," said the imminent guest...

WITHOUT RESERVATIONS

Trust, but verify

WITHOUT RESERVATIONS

Just desertion

The revolution will be drunk

› paulr@sfbg.com We must now ask Rick Bayless, long the prince of high-end Mexican cooking in this country, to make some room at the pinnacle. Bayless is the chef and owner of a pair of...

The halftrée

› paulr@sfbg.com Somewhere in the enchanted realm of West Marin stands the Olema Inn, and in its rustic-chic dining room, at the end of a warm weekend afternoon, a few of us gathered recently for...

Pea play

› paulr@sfbg.com Last week a friend presented me with a plastic bag full of English peas from her garden. A gift given from someone's garden is a profound gesture, and one should always be grateful;...

Taps for tap

› paulr@sfbg.com The importance of water can't really be overstated, despite its low sexiness quotient. While we can get by without such voluptuous libations as beer, wine, soda, and single-malt whiskey — however miserably —...