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Restaurant Review

The road to Mecca

› paulr@sfbg.com Judging a book by its cover might be a sin, but how about judging a restaurant by its name? In most cases this is probably at least premature, if not quite a sin,...

Morphology

> paulr@sfbg.com The popular imagination supposes that restaurant writers are Olympians, dispatching thunderbolt justice to places that scorch their garlic (a sin smellable from several blocks away) or fail to refill the water glasses, or...

Island in the sun

› paulr@sfbg.com Of the great Mediterranean islands, Sardinia is probably the least well known. Crete has its Minoan past and the mythic connection to Atlantis, Sicily its mafiosi; Corsica was the birthplace of...

Umlaut with that?

› paulr@sfbg.com A friend from LA said, upon stepping into Lettüs Café Organic, "I feel like I'm back in LA. On Rodeo Drive somewhere." Ah, Rodeo Drive, home of...

Tea rex

› paulr@sfbg.com Tea might be yang to coffee's yin in the morning land of Caffeination Nation, but despite the presence, in yin as in yang, of humankind's favorite stimulant, tea is surely...

Get thee to a naanery

› paulr@sfbg.com Polk is a many splendored strasse, with lower lows and higher highs, socioeconomically speaking, than practically any other road in town, with the possible exception of Market Street. Below...

City on a hill

› paulr@sfbg.com It is noteworthy, though seldom noted, that Rome's claim to be the capital of Christianity is, you know, a little ... odd. All the Passover and Easter drama — the donkey...

Crazy on you

› paulr@sfbg.com Kookez looks like a name from The Epic of Gilgamesh, or perhaps the name of some lost city in ancient Persia — near Shiraz? — but really it's a kind of...

Cav Wine Bar

REVIEW Maybe it's the flight of robust German reds talking, but Cav seems like the sleekest, yet somehow the most laid-back, entry in the recent rush of wine bar openings. (Is there, like, a...

Deeper into sushi

› paulr@sfbg.comOpera Plaza doesn't look like restaurant heaven, and, for the most part, it isn't. The development's long-running success story is Max's Opera Café, a faux deli that deals in mountainous portions, with dill...

The burger hopper

› paulr@sfbg.com The hamburger has a certain Zelig quality in America: It turns up all over the place, in guises high and low, at fancy metropolitan restaurants and greasy truck stops on the...

Wild Pepper

Do you know the way to San Jose?

Heart of glass

One way to temper the shock of the new is to leaven it with bits of the old. The Europeans are expert at this, though they are more likely to do it the other...

Dine review

A crude proposition